rztmartini

The rust on the floor of my car is worst where the passenger feet rest. would it be a bad idea to cut out from up there down to where the seat mounts and rivet in aluminum sheet instead of welding in a new floor? it isnt the entire floorpan, so I dont think there would be much structure support there...but im not an expert. I plan on just making this a sound DD car, cause its got a lot of rust already. Maybe later on ill be looking for a better body to swap all my parts onto, but for now im cheap... Another possible fix: My grandpa used this while restoring a 69 porsche 912. fiberglass with por-15 instead of resin over the rust holes, put aluminum over the fiberglass, spaced about .5" to .75" over the fiberglass and fill the gap with a foam. This gave it good support, and gave a good sound-deadening effect as well. would this be worth the effort in the Z?

I hear of people painting their intercoolers black to hide them, well why shouldn't I get it anodized? I have a hook-up with an anodizer, so other than the cost differences, why would it not be a god idea?? the reason i ask is cause im worried about the affects of heat transfer through the paint would be...not sure if these worries are valid or not... any input appreciated! -Jimmy

good luck and post pics!!

as long as you have a check valve, everything will still work. remember, as soon as you shut the throttle to put your foot on the brake, there is vacuum in the intake manifold, even if the turbo is still producing positive pressure. thats where having a good bypass valve (BOV) comes in...if you are pushing on the brakes while on full throttle, only then will a vacuum canister make a huge difference (correct me if im wrong!)... my two cents FWIW

I heard that the mating rituals of the Nismo crank are very secretive and complex, but I believe that revving to 9000rpm while "above atmospheric" pressures are present... so pretty much by itself its useless without the rest of this "kit"? seems rather odd of nissan to do...or genius?

heck i guess were placing orders now...put me down for 2 of those heads also! congrats man...that thing looks friggen awesome. i guess what they say is true: two cams are better than one! now how will that hole in the hood mess with our aerodynamically superior cars?

Is this a measurement on the metric scale?

pallnet is where i got my o-ring fuel rail, you will need the injector clips from the supra as well. I think that the chances of finding one supra is better than finding 2 FI RX7's in the junkyard tho...with the supra you will have all 6 right there. but the rx7 only has 4 injectors i think...getting 6 might be harder...

haha perhaps its that the first time i took this class, i was a strong believer that class attendance was "optional"...stoichiometry is only mildly interesting the first time.

what pressure is your rad cap? might not necessarily be an overheating issue...(for your sake, I hope it isnt a bad rad cap) might want to try a stiffer spring, see if it helps??? do you have an aftermarket gauge? not sure how accurate the 35+ year old temp gauge would be. just trying to throw out suggestions...not sure if any help

if you don't have a heating problem, then i dont think you will need a 5 row rad. AZC sells a nice direct fit aluminum unit, MSA may have a drop in aluminum rad as well. A 5-row rad will be heavier than a 1 or 2 row rad as well...but if you plan on a blown V8 or a high strung turbo motor and are intending to endurance/road race, the 5 row would probably be a better choice.

I found out through the miata guys that if you participate in 2 SCCA events that you can get like wholesale deals from mazdaspeed by sending in 2 race results. That would be so cool if nismo did something like that...

or any n/a MKIII supra 440 injectors...

any year CRX. they may be light and can be fast, but racing in a bean is no fun.

I was in Chemistry class the other day and was thinking about cars while staring blankly at the big laminated periodic table in the room and noticed an odd coincidence that Calcium, Strontium, and Rubidium are right next to each other and their chemical symbols are Ca, Sr, and Rb, respectively. Any resemblance to certain Japanese-car maker engine codes? Coincidence? I think not... any other thoughts?

except for those of us who no longer have stock rear brakes, (ie. Wilwoods) then that is the only option, other than employing 2 more calipers, mechanical or hydraulic, to stop the rear wheels. Am I, using too many, commas?? you are correct, it is a staging brake. but think of it as a staging brake for a FWD car...what brakes lock up when it is engaged?

the way these work is very similar to the way your master cylinder works. it is spliced into the line going to your rear brakes. so instead of having a reservoir, it gets fluid from the line coming from your master cylinder. when the handle is pulled, it blocks off the inlet hole, and pressurizes the rearward line, squeezing those rotors! what i was wondering, is what happens to this staging brake when it is engaged and you hit the brakes, pressurizing the line going to the staging cylinder?

any info on the Supra 440cc injectors? let me know if you need one sent. or maybe someone closer might want to send one? anyone....anyone.....Bueller....?

I've aways liked the look of the V-mount, and it could very well be done in the large nose area of the Z. what if the rad and ic were in a v-mount setup, with the oil cooler standing perpendicular to the ground where they meet? i think that it would get plenty of airflow, yet only half of its height will affect a small portion of both the rad and ic? another idea would be just to mount it behind the brake-duct opening on the lip, or if you wanted to get crazy use two of the stock ZXT ones, one on each side with a line connecting them? I would be nervous about having so much oil line out there though...

the turbo FAQ has a lot of good info on what to use based on budget/power goals.

With world population approaching 7 billion, chances are that if you have a Z car, you are a better driver than 99.9999% of total population... hahaha just bustin balls...im bored lol

I think you could actually just use antifreeze around the inserts as a heat transfer also...might want to use straight antifreeze so it dont start rusting...

okay...i was looking at the numbers on the jpeg image and i couldnt really make much of it (havent got into aerodynamics yet ). is there any way to kind of sum up what works vs what doesn't? i.e.: headlight covers = less drag, etc??? if not its okay...maybe if i stare at it long enough it will "magic eye" into something useful lol

any love for the 7mgte? its a cheap and reliable motor, very easy to get a hold of too. i would vote for the 2jz, as the exhaust is away from the steering/brake master. i think that the extra displacement would help achieve the horsepower level you are looking for easier than the RB. plus, the service manuals are in english, which can't hurt

i think its kinda funny, some people's mentality about how to build cars. he spent how much for the paint job, but couldn't fork over the extra $300 for some GC coilovers, instead he just cut his junk aftermarket springs...lmao I think the only 240Z that migh sell for that much would be the Nissan race car from back in the day. maybe the Safari 240Z too...not sure on the specifics of that tho...