rztmartini

also, is the 240sx 5 speed absolutely necessary? i mean unless you already have one, use a zx 5 speed or a T5 if you can find one and it will last you at least untill you get more power or want to get the Z32 upgrade...

now that is sadistic...but fun to think about. it might backfire on you as more people who would be temped to steal (break a window, etc) will be encouraged by seeing the key in there already. fun to think about but why tempt them? the fingerprint scanner is a bad@$$ idea tho. My ign. switch is no longer exclusive to one key (just about any sharp object you can wedge in there will turn her on...) and i was trying to think of creative ideas to keep the Z in my possesion. please keep us updated on which you go with and take lots of pics!

If you extended the "belly pan" foreward of the lip of the airdam, couldnt you make an effective splitter? not only will it provide rigidity, but increase the aero-efficiency of the airdam?

any idea how much your z weighs? also what do you have for suspension?

here it is on a car not running tho...

If i give you the money, can you pick up a couple of those L28DET's for me?

is it carb or FI? electric or mechanical pump? if its electric you could wire in a relay to switch the pump on manually before you start it to prime the fuel rail with cooler gas from the tank. if you have a mechanical pump then you might have to look into heat-shielding to stop the issue altogether... ...if that is really what is going on.

they dont stop and open flow to a turbo like butterfly's on a carb, they divert all exhaust to one side of the divided turbine housing then open up when more exhaust is available. does he say what material he is using? werent the hybridz guys having trouble with warping using stainless and had to go with some exotic alloy?

has anyone personally used this setup or seen it in action? I am wondering if when the e-brake is used, and you hit the brake pedal, will it mess things up? also could a ratchet system be fabricated so that this could act as a reliable parking brake?

these guys think pretty highly of themselves... yea, someone should link to the couple of threads that people were building them...

well that is just the turbos that the guy included with the manifold! i wonder why they were using these in the first place if they were too small? but that was the first thing i said when i opened the box: "Aww how cute those turbos are!"

Can anyone tell me what model wheels these SSR's are? just picked up a car and had these on them, trying to ID them...

Nope. TrusT manifold. Only problem is that it has those wimpy T28 flanges on it...this will be eventually going on a rebello 3.2...

you should look into the type that dont have a reservoir on them, they just go in-line to your rear brakes. essentially it uses the line coming from your master as a reservoir, and acts in the same way your master does. I saw a thread with some part numbers...might try looking in the drifting forums. found it http://www.driftcentral.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4374 here is the part that would be ideal. I want to get to this someday... http://cncbrakes.com/hsb.asp?grp=hsb&subgrp=all&series=412&subseries= and just think: put a bungee cord on the side of your seat and youve got a parking brake! lmaorofl i crack myself up...

you mean like this?

i know its a 2+2, thats the only reason i was hesitant from the beginning...but the Z's on the island are few and far between...there are 280ZXs being sold for close to $5g's...come on now! i think that the engine components alone, pistons, flywheel, bore, head, gasket, and crank would come out to around the same amount maybe? how much are the KA24 pistons running for these days? has the cost of aluminum gone up or something??

Ok so I was wondering if I should jump on this car or not: 1978 2+2 VERY LITTLE rust, almost complete resto., still in primer. everything apart, glass out, ready to be painted. N42 Block: low miles on rebuild by the guy himself V07 LD28 crank JE KA24 flat-top pistons at 0 deck height 240Z rods (not sure size of bolts) with ARP rod bolts 2mm HKS metal gasket turbo oil pump AZC oil pan (brand new) Brand new 240mm Fidanza FW used centerforce stage I P90 head, solid lifters, all stock (not sure from turbo or N/A) port matched N42 non-egr intake manifold old 6-1 header unknown 5speed tranny AZC aluminum rad needs interior harness, carpet, paint, assembly he wants $2000. what y'all think?

This is the sound you want out of a V8 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J8t8kHWkRFo

I called it! the DEI could work with this i think... your 2 turbo jet engine would be really unstable with it constantly feeding itself, it would be like plugging an extension cord into itself...you will have a massive chain reaction waiting to happen! no but seriously... with the compressors routed to the turbines and vice versa, where would the intake air come from? or for that matter the burnt exhaust gasses? if its sealed then it would just blow up and can cause shrapnel flying, depending on how the tubes are hooked up (welded, bolted)... i hope i am mis-interpreting your alphanumeric sketch. maybe scan a drawing or a detailed "MS Paint" picture?

HAHA oh yea...brain fart. they had a 360 modena that sounded like a F1 car too with the same brand exhaust, did anyone see that vid? this comp cant go to youtube so im missin out for now...

this sounds like the "DEI" system i saw a guy design for a corvette... have you taken a physics class before? If you are interested in designing your own innovative turbo setup, you should really get the book Maximum Boost by Corky Bell, or Turbochargers by Hugh McHines (sp?). really good info for everyone from beginners to the old veteran..

I dont care what I have to do, I WILL own one of these before I die. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=foDcLUhUKqI&NR=1 is it that 180 degree exhaust that makes it sound so much more unique (F1 unique?) than any other countach?

I didn't know that the stock regulator was a 1:1 boost referenced regulator, which is what I was referring to as a "rising rate" reg. I'm glad I learned that there were some out there that increase fuel pressure by that much. My Aeromotive unit is a 1:1 so I'm all good. My bad Mario

when you input the values for kPa on the side, 100 is atmospheric (well 101.3 but its close enough) so for when you are making boost it is added to 100. EX: make a few boxes ranging from below your idle vacuum to 100, then scale it from there to your max boost. if you dont go low enough or high enough its okay b/c MS will extrapolate (figure out what they would be based on the other ones) all points not in the tables. I dont know if thats what you were asking...hope it makes cents

big phil has a way of reaching to those of us less-learned folk. big phil FTW!