rztmartini

did you guys see the video?! that thing sounds insane! ooooo i want!

that is a good idea, if only we had someone to show us how...*hint hint*

got it. making a crude shield would definitely be cheaper/easier =)

GReddy/TrusT made a TT manifold

anyone know what the high-temp home powdercoating stuff is rated at? what kind of temperature differences will be seen at the turbine on a tube manifold (SS or mild steel) vs the stock cast unit???

wow Ive been out of the loop for a while and I am utterly amazed. It looked sketchy from the early shots, but this is undeniable proof that careful and extensive calculations can make the impossible possible. as a student in mechanical engineering, I aspire to accomplish a feat of this magnitude, and you have proven yourself (at least in my eyes) to be included in the permanent history of the Z car. PS: was the head made from 2 KA heads, the ends of one and the center of another? or was is it the same end from 2 heads and the center from another???

OMG I dont know why but this thread had me laughing so hard. the part about the bear...ROFL. its wierd how the reaction changes from when you hit a wild animal, or a domesticated pet. hitting a dog = sad. hitting a bear = FRIGGEN HILARIOUS...except for the damage = sad again. you guys crack me up hope everything goes well BRAAP

technically...he can remove all he wants and noone will say a thing... it IS illegal to drive it like that

no that is perfect. thanks guys! regarding that idle thing, do they "go-out" like should i inspect them before i put them on? assuming they have never been checked in the life of the car...

all i need is a yes or a no. anyone? want a picture?

dont know if anyone saw them yet, triple mikunis for z cars, no manifold tho... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mikuni-Carbs-240Z-260Z-280Z-Datsun-Nissan_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33550QQihZ014QQitemZ330145618312QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW or here, available for buy it now, kinda pricey but has the manifold http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-240Z-260Z-MIKUNI-40-CARBS-CARB-CARBURETOR-WEBER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34198QQihZ016QQitemZ260139109576QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW or if you weren't stuck on mikunis, some webers: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triple-Weber-40DCOE-carbs-for-Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-K-N_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34198QQihZ003QQitemZ130131907329QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

quick question for you guys: for the vacuum advance source, would it be cool to tee off of the source hose for the idle solenoid thing attached to the balance tube on the SU's? thanks for the help.

The stock Prop. valve is in the rear right before the "T", it has a big nut looking thing on it. the easiest thing to do is to disconnect the line from MC to Prop valve, disconnect the prop valve to T and bend the line to connect the MC to T. its pretty easy to do, no need for a tube bender or whatever. Suggestion: get a 10mm flare nut wrench and use vice grips around that when breaking the flare nuts loose...works like a charm and you save yourself from having the cut and re-flare the ends when you strip the nut. after 30+ years those nuts are attached pretty darn tight!

how do you find your code variant? I looked in the Mtcfg file and there were multiple msns-extra.ini.xxx (xxx=021s, 024s, 027c, 029c, and 029s). which one of these must be copied and renamed as 'msns-extra.ini'? is that how MT is configured?

okay so i wanted to try my MSI v3.0 out so i hooked the MAT and CLT and TPS sensors to the relay board (both relay board and MS was bought pre-assembled from RS-Auto), connected the relay board to the MS box, and connected the ground, 12v +, and Switched 12V to a charged battery (putting out 13.2v), and when i connect the wires i hear the relays kick on, and the middle light of the MS lights up for 2 seconds then switches off and i hear a relay click (maybe FP relay priming the pump?). when i disconnect power, another relay (Assuming main power relay) clicks off. while the unit has power, it will not connect with megatune. is there anything else that has to be connected in order for it to work? I thought it was that i had an old version of megatune so i downloaded the newest one and still no result. I made sure that my COM1 port was active, and I tried doing the troubleshooting on the DIY Autotune website but got confused...any help would be appreciated!

I assume that you solder some big gauge wire to these holes, as these are the primary 12v, ground, and switched 12v that megasquirt will run off of. Where does it say you need 70 and 50 amp fuses? If I recall, I had written down that you need a 20A for the main fuse, 10A for the FP fuse, and 5A for INJ1 and INJ2 fuses...I don't remember where I got this info from so I may be wrong. As for mounting the relay board, I mounted it to the firewall between the battery and the valve cover, next to my FPR. I would show pics but I'm embarrassed at the state of my engine bay lol...

I am just completing my MSnS install (finally!) and i was wondering how everyone obtained the base VE tables? is there a way for megasquirt to tune for a ceartain A/F ratio then get the settings from there? i have looked through the files people have posted but no one has a similar setup (or i cant find them) that i can use. please shed some guidance, my Z has been out of commission for 2.5 years now and its so close!

something like this?

Hey guys, its getting closer... heres some new pics! Seen here: AZC mustache bar, rear RCA mounts, and Crome-moly RCA's, wilwood brakes, GC coilovers, illuminas, modern motorsports CV adapters, and custom 16x8 centerlines. I think i might need some ZG flares

hey guys. This is a question from my dad, hope someone can help. we are trying to ream holes in some 7-16 alloy stainless steel (not 7/16" thick) and after the first one the carbide bit is ruined...any advice?

yes yes i think we all do. hurry and get one of those new-fangled converters!!! (unless you already have one...then do it now!)

is that manifold made out of galvanized fence-pole? el oh el......

well we went with the 600 cfm to see of that works better... thanks for the help everyone! [/sarcasm]

i was going to reccomend the ion as well. its made by Smart Parts and has a ton of aftermarket support. its pretty simple design makes it light and efficient. If you are proper-maintenance concious then an entry level electro-pneumatic would not be too advanced in my opinion. I QUICKLY outgrew my electro spyder, and wanted a higher quality gun soon after. whats your budget? for <$250 there are a LOT of options for quality markers, the ion included. this gun would be FINe for a beginner to novice player's skills. the gun i got (pictured above) is a Smart Parts Impulse (No longer in production) and is considered by many to be significantly out-dated because of its double tube configuration and its weight (its pretty heavy). but the amount of aftermarket support is similar to that of a civic, and is getting cheaper and cheaper because they are no longer in producion and retailers are getting rid of thier back-stock. these can be had for well under $200 used with many up-grades. i got this custom milled gun with a lot of upgrades for $220. the first time i went out (last weekend) i got a lot of compliments on it, i guess because of the rarity of this version (AtomiX version). check out paintballforum.com for lots of stickies on choosing your first gun. the 98 custom is a tank=virtually indestructible. thats why so many fields use these as thier rental guns. but i love being able to walk to trigger on an electronic gun. like this forum, read and read and read before you commit to anything to be sure that you are fully satisfied when you do purchase a gun!

Hey guys. this is a question from my dad. he is getting the 3.2L Rebello engine built as we speak. he had bought the AZC 4-barrel manifold and a 390 cfm carb for his old L28 before he decided that he wouldnt have enough time to build an engine, and have one of the best do it for him. heres the dilemma... the 390 cfm is maxxed out and Dave at rebello is wondering what he wants to do. go for the big bore SU's ($800) tripple carbs ($1800) but a 600 cfm carb on there those are the choices that dave presented him with. he could also: N/A FI (Megasquirt or Wolf etc...) turbo ($wholelotta$) he wants to break the 300 hp N/A mark and have more torque than that... with turbo, he would want to get at least 400 hp. need some advice! thanks for the help!