rztmartini

after i installed and bled my brakes, I was shocked how easily it locked up the tires!! the prop. valve is REALLY nice to have, I have never had the ability to adjust the brake balance but i can really see a difference.

I havent been in a while, but the ecology jy's almost always have at least 2 or 3 S30's and close to 10 S130's...there is the santafe springs one and the fontana one if your up for a drive...

anyone dare to throw me a bone?

I am installing the painless kit into my 78 280Z, L28 with the GM alternator swap (not the 1 wire). any advice on what wire goes where? Thanks.

can someone explain how to wire up the GM alternator to the painless harness i am putting into my 78 280? Or maybe link to a writeup...thanks!

first of all, are you looking for these struts for a S30 or a S13? maybe they are colored the same, but look at the shaft diameter on the rears in the picture you linked. Those are the units that are included in the S30 kit, not the front ones in the S13 kit you linked to, which are similar to the newstylemotorsport.com set in the second link. I dont know much about the upper-end of the racing-shocks range, but the "big shaft" ones at AZC look pretty.

if i remember correctly, what causes the spooling of the turbo is the pressure differential across the turbine blades, but according the the ideal gas law, the pressure at a constant volume is very much dependent on the temperature, but it sounds kinda funny saying that the temperature of the gas is what spools the turbine. but im still an engineering student...still learning Edit: aww crap they beat me to it...

Holy induction batman! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKyP19ky_W0&feature=related just imagine if a car passed you on the freeway sounding like that...now imagine changing your shorts...lol

wow that looks nice! where did you get your bent tubes from or did you bend them yourself?

1972 240Z: so i tried to setup the HEI with the ZX dizzy and Blaster coil using the recommended wiring per: http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/gmhei.html ...didnt work. so i just put the long black/white that went to the ballast resistor to the coil + and left the short black/white that was supposed to go coil+ disconnected as well as the green/white and it runs... just wondering if it is safe to run it this way? this is a lot easier and simple than the recommended wiring. im having trouble with the advance tho, timing light says it is running best at around 15*? does that sound right? oh yea and my tach doesnt work now...

worked out pretty well in the box its been in...dont know how it will be on the car tho

you mean wastegate? i think the turbos are small enough that most of the exhaust gas is used up, so not much will have to be bypassed...so it all depends on the turbos and what boost you plan to run

I agree...i think the easiest way to tune for more fuel and might have finer adjustment would be an aftermarket FPR. you could just push a little more fuel thru the stock injectors to get by, but nothing compares to being able to tune it with some sort of piggyback controller or a standalone like megasquirt or wolf ems etc...

page 27 in Maximum Boost starts where you can put in numbers for engine size, etc to calculate flow, and from there you can look at different compressor maps and see where the boost (pressure ratio) you want to run and the airflow you want meet on the graph. page 30 has some examples of these compressor maps and where your line will lie in the efficiency islands. from there pick the turbo that has this point (or range of points depending on desired RPM range) in the most efficient "island" on the map. that is how to choose a compressor size. the turbine size (A/R and wheel) will depend on where in the RPM range you want your boost to come on in...there are tradeoffs so you cant have 25psi at 2500 RPM and pull all the way to redline. you can either have quick boost but gets choked up at upper RPM or have longer boost threshold but breathes freely at the upper range. you can also see this website for specific L28 info. http://www.mygen.com/users/dbruce/myz31/TurboMaps/L28ET%20Engine%20Air%20Flow%20and%20Turbo%20Compressor%20Maps.htm hope this helps, anyone else correct me where im wrong...

hey pyro, what turbine did you upgrade to? do you think that if you kept the same size turbine as stock and used the bigger compressor it would have retained the low boost threshold? or would the cam not worked as well because of the restriction of the smaller A/R?

Im a bone-head and forgot to label driver/pass side...which is which?

so the turbo manifolds are cast steel right? that would explain all the success stories of mig welding a steel WG flange on...

im not positive, but i think that what the book is telling you to do is to make an inlet and an outlet, both with AN fittings...that way you dont need an adapter, just run the oil lines stright out of your block... or i might be mistaken...hope this helps...

just give him a chance...if he doesnt know what to search for, how can he find out?? search for G-nose. lots of info on this site as well as others.

if you give some links, it would be easier to know what your talking about

I have a couple coupe ones, but they need to be shipped to me from cali...just wanted to make sure they would fit. If a random one fit your 2+2 Tony, then its prolly a good chance it was from a coupe no?

is it any different than the regular 2 seaters?

http://page5.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/e76560508 must be nice to live in japan...

yea, i had my friends over at TrusT weld it up for me

i think i have seen those wg-spacer things on ebay before. same vendors that sell the knockoff turbos.