rztmartini

I was under the impression that the rising-rate FPR was the ideal one to use and would make tuning easier. When manifold pressure rises, it makes the fuel at the same pressure (in the rail) a little harder to come out. So at 15psi boost, wouldnt that mean that the fuel traveling out of the injector was moving at the same speed as base fuel pressure minus 15? if so, then if your base fuel pressure was 35psi and you were pushing 35psi boost, then no fuel would come out of your injectors...so the rising rate (normally 1psi/1lb boost) would keep the pressure differential across the injector tip the same, regardless of boost. I think i have the right idea, but if i am wrong it would be really nice to know now before something goes terribly wrong and i tell someone else . after all, i have not much room to argue because my car has yet to drive fuel-infected at all...

http://www.centerlinewheels.com/wheels_detail.php?mw_id=35&sw_id=434 pretty good deal for custom billet wheels... mine are 16x8 and i believe they weighed just over 15lbs. I REALLLLLY want to get the faces painted like WigenoutS30Z's

are you sure that you are supposed to leave the stock prop. valve in place? it seems that it would be unnecessary wilwood unit...I took my stock one off, but the car has yet to see the road 2 years later...

I actually have one of those im trying to get rid of...never even been on the car.

Centerline Venturas FTW! 16x8 3.5" backspacing

HAHAHAHA sorry that sounded really funny...just cuz it happened to me too... two hands FTW!

AMEN! but what else are you supposed to do if you are a broke college kid and need to get your car running? i say that its fine if you buy one, but you have no room to complain if the wastegate fails and overboosts and pop-goes-the-weasel. speaking of which, has anyone heard of a TiAL failing?

for a max performance n/a engine, i would think that the surge of power might be more than a properly sized turbo at the same horsepower. "coming on the cam" can be pretty harsh, and you would probably get a smaller power/rev range. i remember watching the Team Falken drift Camaro. it had a nasty motor in it and i think it was n/a. but the torque curve was so sharp when the cam came on that it almost spun every time it went through that rpm range (and did spin numerous times, i dont think it even qualified). take that versus the relatively more linear boost curve for a smaller turbo, and you have the opposite of the conventional "instant-torque vs boost-lag" argument. But by all means, n/a engines do have major appeal, esp. when a milder cam is used but compression, induction, etc are all maxxed out, with that very linear power and flat torque... just my $0.01.

I would be very interested in FG fenders. As stated before, they would probably be desired by those facing rust issues. If fenders were made, an idea would be to already incorporate a flare into it, be it ZG style or BRE or what-have-you. I would like to see a rough estimate as far as price too! To those who currently make FG parts, why havent fenders been done yet? Also how much weight savings might you get from these parts, considering there are enough layers of glass to be sturdy enough... speaking of that, when a friend and I were building our "pre-runner" trucks, both of us got fiberglass fenders, mine were about 1.5x the price he paid, but were solid as a rock and very refined. his could be flexed by pushing with a few fingers and were not even smooth in the flat areas. just goes to show you really do get what you pay for!

is jim cook racing selling the kits again? i called up a few times and was put on a "waiting list" after the passing of Jim (R.I.P.), but that was over a year ago? Maybe they forgot about the list...

cheapturbos.com might have it. they are a dealer for garrett. I think that speedshopthaggard (sp?) is a garrett dealer too, and can be reached from this forum...

i need one of those on my 1.6 miata! btw, what does qft mean?

have you talked with Dave at Rebello? Very nice guy, and i dont think anyone knows more about his engines that him . as far as turboing that engine, he would also know where to go, what to do.

haha that reminds me of my friend who got a supra turbo from a friend, but doesnt have a car. haha sometimes half the fun is dreaming what that thing could go in lol. the choice that made the most sense was to slap it on a geo metro. 3 cylinders of turbocharged fury!

you might want to look into the cv adapter (ZXT cv -> S30 companion flange) that someone posted a drawing of. seemed pretty straight-forward...as long as it was made out of a strong stainless. maybe the person who drew it up might post the pic again.

can someone put in the sticky or somewhere the correct formulas for calculating engine air flow? I trust you guys here a lot more than other random websites, and using thier numbers im not getting consistent answers... one i saw was (displacement*RPM*0.5*Ev)/1728 disp. in ci, Ev=volumetric efficiency, and i dont know where they got the 0.5 or the 1728. another site gave the same, just manipulated the constants: flow=(displacement*RPM*Ev)/3456 oh and btw, would 70% volumetric efficiency be a safe number to use? (who knew getting good information was this hard?! ) and i better not get this stupid smiley!! hahaha nah nah!

that really makes sense, considering how much you lightened your pistons... so i dont think that any of the other rod limits would apply to you, unless they had the same weight pistons... btw, if you dont mind to share, what was the difference in weight btwn the stock piston and yours?

sorry, didnt mean knock-off in the sense, I guess i should have said SSAC instead. BTW, the TiAL stuff that I have (WG and BOV) have "Made in the USA" right on them. i dont think that the SSAC would have the same supplier...

Of course, none of this is to diminish the endeavors of 1fastZ for a TT L28...but im sure that is different entirely

just a thought on the sealing issues with the knock-offs... on my TiAL WG it has a ring that sits up inside where the valve seats with. I assume this is a specific material so that it won't deform under the high heats and not seal properly ever again after the first heat cycle. might this be the issue with the knock-offs? they use the same machining techniques, causing a look-alike, but with inferior (lower cost) materials, giving the customer a lower price... I dont know the heat properties of the different alloys of stainless, but maybe the answer to making this unit work would be to machine this ring out of a better material (and check the diaphram)? or maybe i dont have enough knowledge about the subject to comment...my $0.02

why? single turbo setups are easier, cheaper, and have proven to be very powerful. plus, theres not much room on that side of the engine bay anyways... not being negative, just curious, as i own a TT manifold for the L28...

well, since TrusT did make an exhaust-manifold for the S30 chassis, it might be possible they did produce, if just a few sets.

okay, so aluminum directly on steel is a no-no. BUT...what if you POR-15 the steel, then rivet the aluminum (or get stainless button-head screws), then POR-15 that so seal it and put a little deadening so that it doesn't vibrate at ceartain frequencies?

well i can weld, but i thought that lightweight might be a little more beneficial. plus, aluminum sheet is cheaper than some new floorpans.

are the cores of the ic's cast? i know the endtanks are, but they can be painted...its the core that worries me.