deja

Not exactly sure what you're asking. But the shifter cable just snaps onto the transmission linkage. And there is a section of the cable the bolts to the transmission just behind the linkage arm. I'll see if I can get some picts tonight.

Looking good, very clean. What cold air inlet is that?

LOL, and I would have saved the $25 I paid for the tee if I had thought of using the one I already had from the donor car.

I'm not sure it really matters either, I'm certainly not saying this is how it should be, just the way I'm doing it. But the 94 Z28 runs it this way after going through the throttle body. JTR says to run it the the upper hose not the lower hose. You guess is as good as mine, but I'm staying as close to stock as I can. I think it looks cleaner this way too and helps run the heater hose around the assessory mount.

After the thread about the way to hook up the steam tube on an LT1 and reading all the research Bartman and others dug up I reconfigured mine. First buy an entire Z28 Camaro then pay attention when you disassemble it. There is a vented tee fitting on the heater hose assembly. I cut off the GM hose clamps, not a big deal, to free it from the GM heater hose assembly. I used the bent end of the heater hose at the water pump, then attached that to the tee fitting, Then attached the 5/8" heater hose to the other end of the tee. I re-routed the steam tube hose around the water pump heater hose outlet and attached it to the tee. I had to cut off a little of that hose but it lined up very well. I might cut off the GM fitting on the steam hood and run a new hose, but the stock one is in pretty good shape.

Hmm. good points. But the bottom Gates hose is bigger at the radiator than the other end which is 1 5/16, same as the themostat housing. Not sure about the top Gates hose. Ok I couldn't wait until tomorrow. How soon I forget. I had ordered on of Stealth's hose rubber sleeve adapters to adapt the bottom radiator hose to the T. This allowed me to use the 1 5/16 splicer I also ordered to couple the bottom hose to the thermo housing hose. I then moved my 1 5/16 T to the upper hose, it fits perfect although I think there must be a better hose for this. However the steam hose is too short to reach so I will either have to splice more hose in or replace the one on the tube. Replacing the stock one doesn't look easy, GM uses those crimp on clamps and the tube is pretty tight to the manifold.

On a Camaro that is true, but the top little hose fitting on the JTR is for the expansion tank. There is no extra hose fitting for the steam hose on the JTR radiator. I re-read the JRT manual, also on their web site and it looks like I have it wrong. LT1 engines have a steam vent tube which requires plumbing from the back of the block to the radiator side or upper radiator hose. 1993-1997 Camaros run the vent tube into the radiator tank. 1993 -1996 Corvettes run the vent tube into the upper radiator hose. Stealth Conversions offers a brass tee which splices into the 1¼” upper radiator hose and a 3/8” vent tube can be attached to the 3/8” fitting. Looks like I should use one on the splicers JTR sent where I have the "T" and put the "T" in my upper radiator hose. That might make that upper hose fit better too.

Cool, all that worry for nothing. You'd think the original inspectors would be more knowledgeable.

This is a pict I saw on Bartman's website. I used it as reference for the "T" when I did mine.

[quote name=Danno74Z;752994Deja' date=' Can you go back through this list on the hoses for the LT1? TH driver's side: #21557 This is clear. BH pass side: ? What number is this one? top: #20065 What hose is this for? Is this an alternate for #21557? bottom: #21353 What hose is this for?[/quote] I found the 21557 was a "tight" fit for the top radiator hose. It works but its not perfect, I had to bend it some and cut off a little on the water pump side. For the bottom radiator hose you need to insert the "T" fitting for the steam pipe coming from the heads. From the bottom of the radiator I used 21535 then the "T" fitting, then 20065 goes to the water pump. Again I had the trim a little on 20065 to get it to fit with the "T". Hope that clears it up, if not I can take some pictures.

Now that I think about it when I replaced the Datsun alternator with the GM one on my Scarab setup I had to use a small GM alternator because the 100A and larger ones hit the frame mount tower. Given that with the JTR setup there's no way.

That red pulley is a standard AC delete. Not sure I can get in there to measue but I'll try tonight.

Move to Georgia, no smog laws on a car over 25 years old. Seriously, good luck.

I really like the idea, but my concern is how to hook up the AC on the passenger side. It doesn't look like you are using a tensioner for your setup but adding the AC I would think you'd need a tensioner. This is the AC setup I have now. If the belt would line up with the new alternator location without interferring with the water pump hoses it might work.

Oh sure now you come up with something, LOL. I just got finished gutting my PS pump, buying a Bower AC relocate mount and putting the whole thing on the engine. If this really works on a Datsun I think it would be awesome. But to make it more marketable a mount on the driver's side for the AC would be almost mandatory.

Yep, that is on the list but its going to have to wait a while. Like everyone says triple the time and double the cost of your estimates on a hotrod project. It was a hard choice to give up the manual, but in this day of horrible traffic I went automatic. I'm building a daily driver and I live in Atlanta. If you've ever been here you'd know why.

Last weekend was SEZ8 so I didn't work on the car at all. The previous weekend however I did accomplish some things. I got the knock sensor mounted on the drivers side using The Dial Zone's adapter. http://www.thedetailzone.com/GM%20Fuel%20Inj%20Access.htm Yeah, I could have drilled and tapped the setback plate but I really didn't want to pull that thing out and for $17 delivered this was probably cheaper than buying a bit and a tap, took me 10 minutes to install. I had to add some wire to reach it but I would have had to do that anyway. I also had to lengthen the O2 sensor harness on the driver's side. I made my tranny mount inside reinforcing pieces and got them installed ready to be welded in. I also finally made a decision on how to run the spark plug wires. Its a combination of many of the ideas I got from this board. I ran them though the accessory mount on the passenger side and around the Bower AC mount on the driver's side. I still used the wire loom bracket that normally mounts on the valve cover. But the stock wires were too short so I made an adapter to drop the loom bracket down some. Hopefully this will keep the wires off the headers and I think it looks OK. I remounted the radiator and made some supporting brackets to reinforce the top mounting ears. I also made a mount for my B&M transmission cooler just using aluminum angle. I got the transmision oil cooler lines hooked up using 5/16" lines, after one trip to Northern Tool and three trips to Advanced Auto Parts. On Ebay I had scored some stainless Corvette FI braided hoses that quick connect to the LT1 fuel rails. My buddy Chris flared them for me to accept 3/8" brake line, stainless is tough to flare, thankfully he has a small press. I will run 3/8" input and return lines with a filter near the tank. I hope to get started on the Camaro tank install shortly, that's going to take some fabrication. I did some searching on HybridZ for what to use for radiator hoses with an LT1 and JTR radiator and found this: Top hose (driver's side): Gates hose # 21557 Bottom hose (pass. side): top is Gates hose # 20065, bottom is Gates hose #21353 I looked at the water pump, counted connections and discovered my water pump has one too many fittings. Turns out Camaros and Firebirds have an extra fitting in case the LT1 is used in their performance models and requires an oil cooler??????????? On the Z28 radiator there is a fitting to hook this up, on the JTR there is not. What to do? Asked that on HybridZ and basically I need to remove the oil cooler fitting from the water pump and seal it off. The fitting is pressed in so you have to just work on it until it will pull out, why do I sense a disaster in the making! There are two methods to seal off the hole. Tap out the hole and use a screw in plug or use an expandable freeze plug. I decided to go the freeze plug way since it will be easier to do on the car and there is no way I'm pulling all that engine front end stuff off to remove the water pump, thanks to Bartman for that freeze plug tip.

Damn Wayne, what hot rod God did you piss off? Sure hope the guys at the motel can figure this out if you don't before you arrive.

Are you talking about the stock '77 280z front bumper? If so I have this one I will sell. Email me at dejavideo@charter.net if that's what you want. Make me a decent offer and I'll ship it out. I get a good deal on shipping at work so it will be cheap.

Yahoo! Congrats, good to hear it worked out. I'll bring my ear plugs so I will be able to hear after standing behind that beast this year, LOL.

Now that was not the easiest thing I've ever done, I actuallly broke a good sweat. I managed to get the #3 fitting out of the water pump without breaking anything, LOL. Now off to the parts store for the freeze plug, thanks for that tip Bartman.

Being in the computer industry and particularly the retail terminal field we do a lot of air flow studies with fans on some very hot processors. Granted this is not the auto industry but its amazing what a tiny modification will do to air flow. Your setup with the radiator tilted and the fans trying to basically suck air around a corner may not be the ideal situation. Air is approaching your rad through the grille and your trying to pull it down which could be causing a spoiler effect at the rad fins restricting air flow. We have has issues having the fan too close to a grille, too far away, having poor exit and entrance area for the air path. You name it we've experienced it. My guess is the problem is a combination of the components and how they are configured rather than just one component.