deja

hehe got my rust free 280 from Cumming GA about an hour away from me Story of my life!

I wish! I gave up the Tiger when I got married, what the hell was I thinking? I don't have the Tiger or the wife today! I also sold a '70 AMX after owning it for 7 years, loved that car. I got almost what I paid new for it but wonder what its worth now.

Interesting. I have baddogs sitting in my garage waiting to be installed. So how long should each stitch be at what intervals? Please excuse my ignorance, I'm not a welder so I will have a buddy do this for me. Or would plug welding them be better?

I'm sure that LSD make a huge difference. I've got Falken 17" 512's on mine and like them a lot. Steering characteristics totally changed from the Cooper 14" tires it had on it before. I have new lowering springs and struts to go in after I get the engine swap done, should be a whole different car. When I was running the Tiger I entered a SCCA event in Cincinnati. I was the only car in B production that drove to the track, it was embarassing, LOL. Sunbeam of America felt sorry for me and lent me a set of racing tires, but I didn't have the HP to use them and couldn't get the back end out on corners, I ate a lot of cones! I'm sure I was entertaining for the others racers but it was fun.

This is not mine and I know nothing about it I just saw this on Fbody.com: http://www.fbody.com/cgi-bin/partsfs/read.cgi?msgid=48367

BTW how did you do in the Auto-X? I used to do a lot of that years ago when I had the Sunbean Tiger, never did very well though, car was too nose heavy for tight courses but it was a blast.

I saw that the original hole for the fuel lines was right there, might be easier using that to get the lines past the rear suspension. And the filler on the tank and car almost line up too. Thanks for your inputs.

I just flipped the tank and it sure fits better that way. its tucked up past the valance and there's still room below the floor. The tank has a deep reservoir where that the pump slides into and baffles so perhaps starvation won't be an issue. The down side is the fuel lines aim the wrong direction, not a huge issue. Gonna have to think hard about this. Pictures and documentation will be done.

Post Falls is a long way to go for a car from Georgia. Mike LOL. I had it shipped, expensive but worth it to get a body that is totally rust free.

Will you have to remove the spare tire well to install the older tank? That's already done, got a huge hole there now. What is it's capacity? 15.5 gallons Are you having it boiled out before installation? I drained all the gas, pulled the fuel pump, filled it tank with water, soapy water, water many times. Tt is completely clean. You could eat off the inside of this thing, LOL. Have you checked it for rust? It is very clean inside.

No, its the steel tank from a 94 Z28. Did you flip your tank around, Camaro filler is on the driver's side? If not have you have any issues with fuel starvation? The reservoir (low point) in the Camaro is in the back of the tank. Got any pictures?

Exactly what I needed, thanks. My Z28 tank right now sits at 5 1/2" from the valance, looks like I should move it up a bit, I have some home to play. BTW I bought my car two years ago from a dentist who lived in Post Falls Idaho.

I am in process of installing my Z28 fuel tank into my 280Z. I know the stock tank stuck down below the body but I never measured how far below. Anyone got time to measure their stock tank? I need the distance from the bottom of the splash pan to the bottom of the tank. This may be the most insane idea I ever had, LOL. Thanks

Glad the hear you dodged that bullet Chris.

The tranny mounting hole should be in the middle of the transmission tunnel. The drive train is offset in the car toward the passenger side but the transmission is centered in the tunnel. I did not use the longer tailhousing so I don't know what your issue would be. I have a 280Z, bigger tunnel, but I had to remove to most of the area that those ears mounted too on the passenger side too. I also had the beat the hell out of the passenger side of the tunnel to clear the 4L60E. Pay attention to the cooler lines area, they require some addition beating. Everything fit fine on the driver side.

LOL yeah that might do it.

Congrats, that didn't take you too long.

LOL, did you really think 350 HP in a 2700 pound car wasn't going to have traction issues? Looks like you've dialed it in pretty well, congrats.

Belts hitting something, steering shaft and header, mine is very close. What did you notch that someone said needed welding? And look at any braided brake lines to be sure they are not hitting on something when you turn. After I did my rear brake conversion the passenger side hose was hitting on the left over E-brake bracket, sounded like the rear end was falling out of the car!

Wow, that is one big ass filter, no restrictions on that system for sure.

Very nice, it would be nice to be able to weld aluminum, way beyond my skills. Did the rubber throttle body piece have the damper thing on the bottom? If so how to you seal it off? I think the extra support on the filter is a good idea.

Wow, I did not see those on JTR's site, thnaks.

That elbow is an expensive thing. Too bad GM didn't make the throttle body inlet round!

LOL somehow I knew you were going to say that. I've been looking at that "cheap" package on EBay and will probably get it to start with. I also found someone on EBay that sells intercooler aluminum pipe and pieces parts in different sizes that doesn't seem too horribly expensive. http://stores.ebay.com/pctrading888_Intercooler_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZ19QQftidZ2QQtZkm

Glad to be able to give you an idea after all the help you've given me. I'm also going to look at using the heater hard lines the Camaro uses to run along the engine to the firewall, not thrilled running rubber hose that close to the headers. The hard lines can sit right on the frame rail and they have a bracket that could bolt to the fender to hold them in place.