30 ounce

Oh, thanks for the explaination. Beautiful Z by the way!!

Sorry...what does subscribed mean?

Late 260 with stock 260 distributor. I hooked up the MSD to the magnetic pickup in the distributor and the MSD 6AL seems to work fine. I ordered the 8920 adaptor and hooked it up per the instructions but I'm not sure wich wires drive the tack. I have a black with green stripe and a black with blue stripe and a solid blue that were all connected to the original ballast resistor wich has now been removed. I connected the purple wire (tack drive) from the MSD 8920 to the solid blue wire and the tack just barely moves off 0 when I rev the engine.

I installed an MSA 6AL and the MSD 8920 tach adapter and I still have no tach function. The tach does move a little bit when I rev the motor. Does anyone know how to hook this up so my tach works?

I built my 3.0 liter last year with Rebello Racings 3.0 liter kit. It comes with Eagle 145mm forged rods, custom made JE forged pistons (I wanted 11.5:1 compression as that is what Isky (camshaft I am using) recomended) with eyebrow reliefs for the valves, Nismo .6mm metal head gasket, complete set of race bearings and an offset ground L28 crankshaft (stroke is 81mm) for $1800. I think to get 230-250 whp (250-285 engine dyno) you will need forged rods & pistons because you'll need an engine that will rev to 7000-8000 rpm reliably. You will also need a cam that will make peak hp at about 6800-7200 rpm. Anyway, my build went like this: F54 block $175 Machine work for the block $900 Timing chain set $100 Head work $2000. Including the cam I used my E-88 head off my 260. Welded the combustion chambers for higher comp. & better design to reduce detonation. Ported & flowed (twice). Spent a lot of time getting the head right!!! SU carbs modified by Rebello Racing $800. Probably $250 or more spent on misc. stuff Of course $1800 3.0 liter kit Total? $6025 maybe?? I'm sure I missed alot. 250 whp? Maybe, my z car club friends think I'm about 225-250 whp with thier butt dyno's. I have not dyno'd it yet, soon though. I am also at 5280 feet above sea level so if i got anywhere near 225 at the wheels I'll be proud.

As far as the set and forget I was talking about the float levels only. You should not be making mixture adjustments with your floats! When you remove your dashpots and look down to the jet nozzle you should be able to see fuel just below the nozzle. If you raise the fuel level too much then you will have raw fuel flowing out of the carbs and hopefully on the ground and not into a cylinder wich will hydrolically lock your motor. Be carefull!! Once you have the floats correctly set the mixture screw, needle, possibly nozzle & damper oil is all you need to adjust. At least as far as the mixture goes.

Madkaw, I think Bradyzq is right about the AFR on that dyno but there is definitely something up at 5250 rpm's. Shouldn't a 10.4:1 air fuel ratio be blubbering rich? You asked about the float setting and they should be set and forget!! www.datsungarage.com has a good trick to set float levels. Once the float levels are set the mixture screws will do the rest. This page has some good info too: www.jetlink.net/~okayfine/sutech.html

The Z Therapy video also has some cool mods to make your SU's flow better. The video quality isn't that great but the info is priceless. I would be wary of switching to tripples. If you can't get 2 throats to work right try 6!! Dave Rebello talked me out of tripples saying a good running pair of SU's will work better for everyday driving than tripples and be almost as good on the track (with his mods of course). Classic motorsports did a comparison on a dyno of Weber DCOE and SU's last month (issue #147 September 2010)and there really isn't much difference.

That really looks like your float bowls ran dry or at least low. I was having that problem with my SU's until I got a Holly fuel pump. My carbs were modified by Rebello Racing to flow 360cfm (I think that's what it was) but my 3.0 liter engine could use all the fuel in the bowls in a full throttle 0-60 run. Before you sand those needles make sure you have adequate fuel to the carbs.

The 5020 for the 240z are progressive rate springs and are suppose to increase spring rate as the spring compresses. Thus the first few coils are coil bound. The 5022 are for the 260-280z and are not progressive rate springs. John has a formula for making these work on the 240z on the suspension page. I would recomend doing this as they are also slightly higher spring rates and would help with the extra 100 pounds in the front of your car.

That setup has coil bind issues and adding that extra 100 pounds probably made it worse. I have Techno Toys Tuning's front and rear lower control arms and TC rods and the Tokico Illumina setup John was talking about (actually got them from John). With the shocks set to 2 the ride is firm and well controlled. About the same as BMW M3. I've heard the HP shocks are like the Illumina's set to 3 which might be a little stiff for the street. I love the way my z rides and drives now!! John is a great resource for suspension info. Get yours fixed and enjoy!!

I went with a Nikon D80 when I switched to digital because the Canon equivalent felt clunky and flimsy in my hands. To be fair both companies make great cameras. The Nikons just feel better to me. I now have A D300 and several lenses (Nikon 80-200 f/2.8, 18-135(D80 kit lens), Tamron 17-50 f/2.8 vc (highly recomended!! my favorite all around lens), sigma 10-20). If your into flash photography the Nikon cls system is awesome. You can control unlimited off camera flashes with it. Though I think Canon has a similar system but it's not as easy to use. I have pics on my profile taken with the cls system of my Z.

I live in Milliken which is about 20 minutes from Fort Collins. How long are you staying?

The rear storage started with the late 260. As long as you order a carpet kit for the 280 it should have the cutouts for the carpet to fold over and expose the doors. At least mine did when I ordered it ten years ago!

I upgraded my front and rears with silvermine motors stage 4 kits. Very easy upgrade (the only problem was I needed to adjust the rod to the new master cylinder length.(didn't think that would be necesary but it was)). The pedal feel, brake modulation, overall brake effectiveness have been greatly improved. Granted, my brakes were due for new pads and fresh fluid anyway. I am still using the stock porportioning valve and it seems to work well. I would bet that a porportioning valve would be needed to optimize the brake balance for track days but for street use the stock unit seems adequate. Finally my z stops better than my wifes minivan! Can't wait for track days to check this setup out.

Check out the purist 2.7 liter at www.rebelloracing.enginebuild.htm . I have a 3.0 renello engine and love it!!