30 ounce

The L26 should already be notched. They went with larger exhaust valves that year so it should be notched from the factory.

After the hacking event my Ipad, Iphone, and Macbook Air have one by one lost their sign in ability. It says I have the wrong user name and password wich is incorrect as my PC will sign in still. Actually not sure if I sign out if I could sign back in with the PC as it's always signed in.

Will it be ready for the next track day?

TTT lower control arms front & rear MSA sway bars Tokico Illumina struts & springs TTT mustache bar on R180 w/3.9:1

Heres 2 more.

I use Motul RBF 600 and NAPA semi metallic pads for track and have excellent results. I get the Motul at the Kawasaki dealer in Loveland (I-25 between Windsor & Loveland west side). It's a lot less $$ than ATE Super Blue and easier to find.

Good to see you at track day. I'll post some pics & video when I get them processed.

Definitely get a trans.... Why not go for a 5 speed?

You might want to decide on the shifter before you install it. I don't think it's possible to install the shifter from the top. You will need to drop the transmission again. I will try to make the drive to Nederland this weekend. Are you going?

The Royal Purple Synchromax is an ATF blend made for the T5. I called them and they insisted that was the correct fluid to use.

I'm using Royal Purple Synchromax in mine. Shifts at 7250 rpm's are no problem. I would also recomend this for your T5 http://www.mgwltd.com/mustang_shifter.shtml You are always welcome to come drive mine & see if you like it.

That is badazzz!! Love the color!

Looking for a '72 center console that is in decent shape or at least referbishable. Thanks, Gerry

http://www.nismoparts.com/catalog/?section=297

Which master are you using? I think the rear drums have a valve in the master cylinder that keeps pressure in the line. See the sticky on the Wilwood master cylinder.

Yes, with some modifications. Cam, porting, carb & headers will determine where peak power is made. Mine is 6300 rpm. Revs to 7000 happily. And is 3.0L.

In 1995 I lived in California and was issued a ticket for passing a weigh station on my way to work. I was a contractor and worked out of a 12' flatbed Ford F 350. I had been driving past that same one for at least 5 years. The officer (I'm being polite) said because my flatbed was more than 80" wide it qualified as a commercial vehicle. I measured it later that day and it was 79"!!! Anyway, I have many complaints about Cali!! Beautiful state, rediculous politicians (sometimes).

I'm sure the anti sway bars would hold the LCA enough to limp back to the pits but I would bet a lot of $$ that without the sway bar and TC rod holding the LCA in place you would have a very difficult time getting back. The LCA would have almost nothing to do with braking torque, the strut and TC rod would. I don't understand how braking force would not be transmitted mostly through the TC rod. I'm not talking torque here but the weight of the vehicle.

I don't buy this logic. My build date is 12/74. I don't think they would intermingle parts until they ran out, they would put them on a parts shelf and sell them as spares.

That doesn't look like the tack in my 260. My yellow line starts at 6500 and redline is 7000. The stock engine will struggle to 7000 there really isn't any benefit except maybe 2-3 shift to keep it in the power band a little better. Power really drops off at 5500 on a stock motor.

I'm not saying the TC rod design had anything to do with where yor control arm broke it just amazes me how dainty they can make these parts when you consider the forces that must be applied to these.

Wow!! Kinda the reason I went with TTT control arms. I know they are heavier than stock ones but they are tough. I also dont like the TC rod having just the one bolt. Seems like a pivot point for the control arm under braking. Most of the weight of the vehicle is transmitted to front tires through these! AZC are like that too. Maybe I'm wrong... Glad nobody got hurt.

Garrett, I like your AFR's better than mine. Looks like it leans out a little on the top end. I think KD needles might be even better for you. These needles were custom made by Rebello. He gave me a couple ideas to try to lean out the midrange. If those don't work we'll make new needles. The carbs were modified by Rebello (big bore). If I can get that midrange right I think this will be a great motor. It's a lot of fun now but could be better. Duragg, timing was at 35 degrees. The run that made 183 WHP was at 33 degrees.

My wife made a video too.

Finally got a dyno run done. Need to find different needles to lean out the midrange a bit. Also had a better run with 183 HP and 173 TQ but didn't bring it home. I'll swing by Tuesday & grab it. Keep in mind that this was at 5280 ft elevation!! 3.0 liter, SU carbs, Isky 490-290 cam.