30 ounce

One of the MANY reasons I left California!!

Darn it! Nobody answered what the red button does. I have wondered about that for 20 years. I was hoping it was a convenient way to turn the engine over while adjusting the valves but I could never get it to do anything.

I built a 3.0 liter with Rebello's parts. I would not recommend it if you have not built an engine before. My cousin did most of the assembly because he is a machinist and has built several L4 series racing engines. It ended up around $6k. Scheduled to dyno it next Saturday. If I make around 200-225 hp I'd be excited. I'm at 5280 elevation so I'll be down a little on power compared to sea level.

Holy crap, Mark, that sounds like a BEAST! So your saying that you have no bog at throttle tip in? That is the only reason I have not got triples yet! Your changing my mind...

Motul RBF 600 is my choice for brake fluid. I've done 2 track days without flushing them. Pedal is still nice and firm.

I had to completely unplug the stock ignition box... Then the tack worked fine. That was a MSD 6AL though. I thought that simply plugging in the 6AL would bypass the stock ignition box but it doesn't. Unplug it, unscrew it, set it on top of the tool box & see if the tack works.

I think they came out of a 2001 Jetta VR6. They made them from '97-05 I think. The trans-cat hump was cut and a new piece formed and welded. I painted it with undercoating on both sides wich is why it looks all crinkly. All the VW mouting hardware was removed and I welded four tabs in the corners & drilled for the stock rails to fit. Also had to notch a space for the stock seat adjuster to fit in the seat pan. It was more difficult than I expected but have to get the seat rails as low as possible. ALL in all it is doable and I'm glad I did it.

I installed VW Jetta VR6 seats. PITA but they look and feel great. They sit about 1" higher...I can still fit with my helmet on. I have about 3-4" headroom without the helmet. I'm thinking about modifying the rear seat mount to gain my inch back. I did have to modify the trans-cat hump as mine is a late 260, same body as the 280.

Thank you, Mike!! Nissan did not have any but I did order them from Pegasus.

Not yet, just assumed it would be NLA. I'll call Monday.

I think it says to send in a crank for the 3.0 kit but Dave said not to 'cause he had plenty of them. Dave really knows the L series engines and I wish I had known that he was Antioch when I lived in California. I was less than 20 minutes from him! Bret is the owner of Bowers Racing and does do nice work. I told him to fit my stuff in when he had a chance and it took about 9 month to do my head. It took about a week to do the block though. He is very busy during racing season so...I think that says something. I did have to redo my valvetrain setup. I don't think his miniuns understand the importance of the L series valvetrain setup. No big deal as I wanted to set it up anyway. I've learned to double check everyone's work. Just a good practice I think. I did send Dave my SU's to bore them.

Does anyone have a source for the drivers side reverse threaded lock nut for the steering rack? Alignment guy was about to fire up a torch to loosen the nut when I looked out in the shop and stopped him. Freaking MORONS had already rounded the bolt off.

I absolutley love this engine. The Rebello kit has a lot going for it like JE forged pistons and Eagle rods that are longer than any of the stock rods for better rod-stroke ratio. It's tame enough for street driving and above 4000 rpms it pulls very hard. The guys and gals start showing up at 7:00am and the track is hot from 8:30-5:00. Boulder Nissan has taken care of the corner workers so we don't have to do it ourselves. A BIG THANKS to them for that. It makes the day go so smooth.

I live about 30 minutes from Denver and can tell you that displacement will definetly help at altitude. I built a 3.0 liter with Rebello's kit an F54 block and E88 head off my late 260. The head was ported, chambers welded (to get to 11.5:1 compression)and Isky 490X290 cam installed by Bowers Racing in Fort Collins. They also did all the block work too. My cousin, Jim, and I did all the detail work on the block (removed casting flash etc)...Jim did some more detail work on the exhaust ports and we assembled eveything with ARP bolts & studs. I also sent my SU's to Rebello to bore them out. I went 11.5:1 on Isky's recomendation, went with that cam on Brett's recomendation (he did he porting and flow bench work). The thing to remember is that at altitude you lose some dynamic compression and with high overlap cams like my Isky you lose some more. If you don't raise the compression to account for it you'll lose a lot of bottom end tourque and make your engine no fun on the street. The cam, porting & compression should be considered together. I also run pump gas:93 octane or 91 with lucas octane booster. The Z car club of Colorado will be at High Plains Raceway in Byers on September 10th if you want to come out for a ride. Bring a helmet if you got one.

I'm running 16x8 and have to run a 1/8 spacer in front and none in back to clear the spring perches with 225/50x16's. Don't remember the offset but my issue was with the front spring perches. When I put the Toyota brake calipers on the front and Mustang GT500 calipers on the back I had to run 1/4" spacer in front and 1/8" in back to clear the calipers.

How did you get the bleeders on top? I have these and would like to have my bleeders on top!

Dave Rebello ordered my pistons for me. I ordered his 3.0 liter kit and the pistons were made specifically for me. They came with a build sheet and a # (also engraved on the pistons) in case I needed to get replacements. I remember I put it somewhere safe...now where was that? I'll look around for that tomorrow.

Bowers Racing in Fort Collins Colorado did my head. He sent it out to have the chambers welded but he reshaped the combustion chambers, installed steel valve seats with larger valves, ported intake & exhaust, ordered the cam & springs, trued the top and bottom and put it all together for $1500. This was when my motor was a 2.6 liter. About a year later I decided I wanted a 3.0 liter so my cousin & myself took it all apart redid everything for the 3.0: unshrouded the valves improved the exhaust ports & rechecked the flow rates to make sure we didn't ruin it.

My E88 chambers look a lot like BRAAP's pictures here of a welded N42. Mine are more heart shaped (BRAAP has a flat side by the spark plug) and more unshrouded by the valves (89mm bores). They ended up being 44cc's which gave me 11.5:1 compression. I am able to run 33 degrees advance with my 490/290 cam and 93 octane fuel. Any Z head can be made to work well and the E88 is a prime choice to weld the chambers and make a better combustion chamber than any of the Z's came with. It really wasn't that expensive. Less than custom domed pistons to be sure.

I welded the chambers in my E-88 to raise the compression to 11.5:1 which is what Isky recomended for my cam. But we did that prior to installing steel valve seats for the larger valves. If you haven't done that yet you may want to as the brass ones are probably shot by now. You need to find a welder who will take his time and jump from one cylinder to another so as to not warp the head. Welding the chambers gives you lots of options for combustion chamber shape ie; fast burn, high quench design. My engine builder was all over it when I suggested welding the chambers as he was not impressed with the stock shape. I'm using 89mm JE pistons from Rebello and unshrouding the valves to the 89mm bore helped a lot with he flow. I think you are using a much bigger cam than me (490 lift 290 duration) so I think you'll want to be around 11:1. I'm at 5280 elevation so Isky said I could get away with an extra .5 piont.

Had a track day yesterday and noticed that my oil pressure was was dropping in the turns and return somewhat in the straights. What are you track guys doing to keep oil around the pickup? Is it as simple as a baffled oil pan? Does the Accusump work? Dry sump?

I have TTT lower control arms front & rear as well as the TC rods. I was very impressed with the workmanship of these parts. I was a little worried that the aluminum control arms wouldn't be stong enough for track days as the entire wight of the car can be transmitted to the pavement through these parts. I'm probably wrong. I have never heard of any of them breaking except a rear AZC old design (that wasn't aluminum) that was used in a high HP track car. As for fitment, it is tight in there but the TC rods come with allen head bolts that fit better. At least it makes it easier get an allen wrench in there. I've had mine for 2 years now. Completely satisfied.

Check that the rotor & cap are in good shape. Make sure you have the correct gap between the star wheel and trigger (forgot what they are called!!) under the rotor.(unless you have points!) Then make sure the coil is in good shape. I'd just replace it, they're pretty cheap. And the wires too. I think you have a spark problem unless your floats are cavetating or not seating properly.

Yes!! Going to tech inspection this Saturday.

I'm running Dunlop star specs. 225/50x16 but they are available in 205/50x15. Open invitation to come drive them, I live right around the corner...