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30 ounce

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Everything posted by 30 ounce

  1. Thanks! Glad I'm not the only one. I have about 20 track days on these with very sticky tires so I guess I should have expected this.
  2. I tried to replace my front wheel bearings last weekend and when I got the bearing races into the seated position they were LOOSE! They were tight all the way to the final position then they flopped around. I have never seen a wheel hub "wear out" but I suppose mine is toast...has anyone else had this happen? I ordered the TTT Aluminum replacement hubs. I'm a little worried about their strength for track use but Gabe assured me they are up to the task.
  3. http://forums.hybridz.org/garage/vehicle/330-datsun-260z/?tab=images# Here you go...
  4. Since I did the whole suspension at once it was huge.
  5. Yes they can work with the stock bar, MSA bar (which is what I run with my TTT setup), or ST bar.
  6. #5 gets hot and causes detonation. I think Tony D had a head cooling thread showing how to deal with it. Datsun had 700 hp L's in the 70's and 80's for road courses. Basically all stock bottom ends with shot peened rods.
  7. I have a very similar motor to what you want to build. I used Rebello's 3.0 liter kit that uses the offset ground crank, Eagle 138mm rods and JE 89mm forged shallow pistons. My head work was done locally and I used Isky's 290 duration-490 lift cam. I used stock 280 valves. It is a blast to drive on the street and the track! But I have some friends who built turbo 280's that are much faster than me for less money. Mine sounds awesome though.
  8. The fronts are the same. The strut tube is larger by 1/8" or so but that won't make any difference. You could swap the rears too but it will lower it about an inch and a half.
  9. If it was a late 260 you could do it. The early 260's had shorter rear struts.
  10. If someone is SERIOUSLY interested I could check it out. If its the real deal I doubt it will last long.
  11. What head do you have that uses shims??
  12. Can you plug in the Toyota 4runner fronts and the 06 Ford GT 500 rears that Silvermine Motors sell? I have this setup and it seems to work well at the track.
  13. That doesn't look right. Mine fit a lot better than that. I have a late 260 (which is a 280 chassis) and it was a little tight but not that far off.
  14. If you want to correct understeer with tire pressures shouldn't you LOWER the fronts or RAISE the rear? Same thing with your oversteer pressures...?
  15. Remove the distributor and turn it over, there is another adjustment for timing directly opposite the normal adjustment.
  16. I'm using a 260 distributor & MSD6. Different advance curve & amount.
  17. If the wires are backwards it will run very poorly. I wired mine backwards at first because both wires from my distributor look purple. I could not tell a difference. After a few phone calls to MSD they hit on this. I reversed the wires and all was well.
  18. Yup, the center pin in that cap is toast. Just go to your local parts store and get a new cap & rotor. Put everything back together & see if it works. If not then pull the center wire off hold it 1/2" away from the block and have someone else crank the motor whiel you check for spark. If no spark it could be bad coil or worn points (if you have them). No matter what you will need cap & rotor.
  19. Mine did that too until I replaced the voltage regulator. Mine was bad but I suspect your dead battery is the cause.
  20. I got the whole setup including the rear GT 500 disc setup. You can save a bit sourcing everything individually but I didn't want to go the hassle.
  21. Is this for the turbo build? If you are going to track it I would go with the slotted and vented disks like these: http://www.silverminemotors.com/Front-Big-Brake-Kit-stage-4-Front-Big-Brake-Kit-Stage-4.htm This is what I have. Ryan can tell you how well they work on the track...
  22. Try one step hotter plug. There is a lot of deposit on the threads that would indicate a slightly cold plug. There should only be black on the first 2-3 threads. And it looks like your timing is a little too advanced. The color change on the ground strap should be right at the bend. Yours is almost to the base (threads).
  23. That sounds Awesome!! Is that a 3" exhaust?
  24. Mine has notches from the factory ...I'll take pictures when I get home....
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