30 ounce

Yes. If you are only going to use the holly red (without the electric pump by the tank) you'll need to mount it in back by the tank lower than the pickup point. It likes to push better than pull. You'll want to isolate it with rubber mounts as it's a bit noisy. Mine is mounted in front right wheel well and I can hear it.

5 is the firmest setting. Try 2 or 1. If you are using the tokico shocks with the new coilovers you'll still need to change that setting. I don't know anyone that actually uses that setting except for very smooth racetracks and stiff springs. What spring rate are you getting with the coilovers?

That is odd that the ride got worse when you swapped the springs as the front spring rate is 185 lbs in. and the rears are 200. What setting are your shocks on? I have tokico springs with illumina shocks set on 2 all around and while the ride is firm it is nothing like a jeep!

I replaced the mechanical fuel pump with the holly red in the engine bay. The stock electric pump was not meant to fuel the carbs by itself. In stock form it sent fuel to the mechanical pump which fed the carbs.

That's what I'm using with the stock electric pump in back. Works great!

Does your Z have the filter by the tank (next to the electric pump) like the 260z has? Mine would get clogged often with rust before I had the tank cleaned and coated. 9.8 is exremely rich at idle and 16 is pretty lean...

The right front wheel was wobbling while the red car was on the slalom course from bad bearings or worn out bushings!! These guys didn't giva a crap about handling or anything for that matter. What a bunch of a**holes. Should flame thier website!! I think anyone on this site could have done a better job on a Z in 72 hours.

I would urge you not to get a 4x4 truck, they simply are not that great in the snow because the bed is usually unloaded. I used to have a 4x4 Tahoe and thought that was the bomb until I got snow tires for the wife's minivan. That thing could drive circles around the Tahoe in the snow! Stayed planted the entire time and braked way better! Conclusion: Snow tires are way more important than 4x4. If you are going to be in downtown Denver you really dont need a car any way. Public transportation is pretty good in Denver.

Your model is a trooper 'cause it hasn't been warm enough to dress like that here (Colorado) recently! And the girls pretty tough too! Nice shot!

My motor is very similar to what you want to build. I used a Rebello 3.0 kit for the bottom end in an F54 block. My head is/was an E88 but if it wasn't for the casting # no one would recognize it. I welded the combustion chambers up to create a quench area that looks like the one in the "Custom Cylinder Head Building...Whats involved" link above. (Although I didn't see that until a year after I did it.) I had the head ported by Bowers Racing (they also did the chamber welding)and put steel seats in. I'm using an Isky 490 lift 290 duration cam and called them to find out what compression ratio to run. They recommended 11.5-1 partly because I'm at 5280 ft. above sea level and can get 93 octane close by. I have run 91 octane with just a hint of pre ignition on a hot day. I think if you are willing to weld the chambers up you can run more compression than the open chambers will allow. I,m using the NISMO .6mm metal head gasket and my pistons are flush (0.0) with the deck.

I live in Colorado and my Z stays in the garage when the snow starts. Usually from December to the end of March. Although last night I did drive it down to Denver to the Z car club meet because it was a really nice day. So the weather here can vary wildly. I would never recommend driving a Z in the snow. I'd bet it would be a handful! Also the mag chloride doesnt seem any better than salt as far as rust goes. My work van has surface rust all over the frame.

Also the Dunlop direzza dz101 is not the same tire!! It is not as good as the sport z1 star spec!!

I found a 265/40-17. I would call them. That's pretty dang close they might not have it listed.

I got my Dunlops from Tire Rack and they were awesome!! Tires arrived in 2 days!! And the price was great too. Highly recommended.

Dunlop Direzza Star Spec Z1 has been a very good tire for track days for me and are tough enough for the street. They have recieved very good reviews and the autocross guys use them because they have great cold grip that doesn't fall off too much when they get heat in them. I've heard Toyo proxes RA 1 need to get some heat in them before they grip well. But they probably have ultimately higher grip.

Don't "throw them out"!! Just send them to ZTherapy for roller bearing throttle shaft install and rebuild. Or exchange them. There isn't any reson to keep the original carbs just because they are original. The replacements will be exactly the same (with some very important improvements that are not visible (internal)). $625 is just enough to make ZTherapy a more desireable option. Of course you could rebuild them yourself for around $200.

When you floor the throttle the dashpot piston actually drops and the velocity of the air accross the bridge increases pulling an enriched fuel mixture into the engine until things equalize in the dashpot and intake manifold. You are definitely too rich! I'd bet money on it! Don't be afraid to experiment. You can't make it so lean you'll damage the engine. At least not a mostly stock engine.

That definitely sounds like a rich condition. I would try leaning it out with mixture screws (1/4 turn or so) and see if a full throttle pull does any better. If it still misses lean it out another 1/4. Do it again until it doesn't miss with full throttle. Even if you had a color tune kit ( or the o2 sensor) you'd be at a better starting point than your at now. I think your just way too rich...

However, it's fairly common knowledge that the achilles' heel of SU carbs is throttle response. Yes, I've heard that too. Des Hammills book (How to power tune SU's) addresses this. Many poeple use oil that is way too thick for the dampers in an attempt to richen the mixture on acceleration. The damper should be able to respond immediatley to throttle input (lightwieght oil(3 in 1) or ATF or none) and the mixture adjusted with the needle size. Mine responds immediately! No power valve needed. That being said, SU's are a compromise just as webers or possibly the Holly.

Assuming the OP had the square top SU's, which were used to reduce emmissions, then the Holly probably performs better. Square tops were a PITA to get to perform properly. Round top SU's on the other hand can be made to perform amazingly well. I have Rebello modified SU's on my 3.0L that I put on until I could afford tripples but they perform so well that I'm reluctant to change. I can floor it at 1500 rpm's and it goes like a fuel injected car; no bog, hesitation or miss. I know that tripples will get me a few more ponies on the top end but at what cost in drivability? Everyone keeps saying SU's were used for better mileage...REALLY? The original 240 was a pretty good sports car and if I remember correctly Datsun didn't put SU's on their economy cars. I really want tripples but after my expierence with SU's I'm impressed at how simple the design is and how well they work.

I always thought a hot inline 6 was cool. It is easier and cheaper to make more power with a V8 but what fun would that be? Everybody does that... I never thought I could make a NA Z engine as fast or sound as cool as mine does! It is intoxicating. I usually turn the radio down just hear it! Plus it's a little bit old school nostalgia.

I could see if a guy was running a stock cam and stock flywheel that the piston would (should?) be set up to rise only as fast as that engine would allow. Rising faster than the needed would cause the velocity to slow accross the bridge resulting in a lean mixture. In a hot engine: 3.0 liter, 15 lb flywheel, hot cam, head ported properly, that could rev faster than the stock spring and damper oil could respond is where I'm thinking Hammill's recommendations make sense. I would love to go FI but want to get the most out of these SU's first. Nostalgia you know.

In the SU carburettor high performance manual by Des Hammill he recommends using the lightest springs (1-2oz/inch) and little or no dashpot oil (or the lightest oil possible) to get the piston assembly to react quickly with engine vacuum and throttle input. He then recommends thinning the needles to get the proper fuel mixture. I have read in these forums that some have used the oil in the dashpots to get their mixtures correct under load by using thicker (as much as 20wt) oil to slow the piston's rise (thus choking the engine) and enrichening the mixture. This seams to me to be the wrong way of enrichening the mixture. I have tried heavier weight oils in my SU's (5,10,15,20wt motorcycle fork oil) with poor results. The heavier the oil the slower the engine accelerated. My question is weather anyone has tried these mods and what were their results?

Just build the extra engine up as $$$ allows. Replacing the head gasket is not too hard. Get a factory sevice manual online or the How to Rebuild your Nissan Engine book. The trick is to not let your timing chain fall into the block and let the tensioner fall out of it's guide like I did. Even then it just means 4 hours more work taking off the front cover. Definetley make sure the head is straight and use new head bolts.