mom'sZ

If it gets cold where you live and you need to drive in those conditions, you might wanna consider retaining it. When the oil is thick the engine idles slower. The air regulator bleeds air past the TB until the bi-metal warms up and closes the little door. If you wanna hold the throttle with yer foot for a few moments until it will idle, that will work 2

That was the FIRST thing I thought of when I read this. Exhaust leaks often get louder as the car warms up. Prox, is it stock ex manifold, header... or what? Maybe it's cracked. They warp and pop the studs off the end. not to beat dead horse The stock oil pressure sender is junk. replace with aftermarket gauge or new $tock sending unit

bjhines: I think your doing an excellent job with those glass parts and I'm a former body man! Most all glass parts need some work to fit real well. I like the skirts and flares... man, do your own thing and let em eat cake

I don't know, when my tps got wet the engine would start and idle fine but would not rev out. I tried to figure out which relay it is that clicks for ya olie but mine clicks when the key is turned to the ACC position. It doesn't seem to click when turned from ACC to RUN position. I couldn't tell which one it was, I need a helper. Anyhow, I think my dad (it is my mom's old car) had problems with the fuel pump and replaced it and still had problems and may have bypassed the relay that feeds the pump. Going to have to investigate into it at some point because I want to replace the pump, add a regulator and run new lines. So are you more convinced it may be not ignition and might could be fuel pump? I bought a cheesy pressure gauge and tee'd it into the fuel line right before the bar and taped it up so I could see it while it ran to try to diagnois another problem (bad temp sender). Maybe you could do that. now THAT is crazy talk... crazy talk

Olie: I think you were on to something in post #4. You seem convinced it is something cutting the ignition. Are you sure it's ignition? I think power is sent to the fuel pump through the ECU once the engine fires up. I think the vane must not be fully closed for power to continue to flow to the fuel pump so the fuel pump will cut off in an accident. Maybe the wiring for this feature is bad. Can you test for voltage at the fuel pump or maybe fuel pressure at the rail to eliminate fuel as the culprit

I'm not real big on ebay but I've seen the little one, the one that goes at the top front of the door oppose the mirror on ebay... OEM

I seem to remember katman talking about 'twisting the needle off' a 325 degree gauge on another forum using the r180 in a 240, that's why I asked. I believe he suggests BG gear additive

What diff? R180 right, isn't your car a 240?

AK-Z I few years ago I worked with a guy in a machine shop that specialized in racing motorcycles. We were involved with the development of some vintage motorcross racers, jap dirt bikes from the late sixties and early seventies. A lot of them had electronic ignition and the black boxes were getting rare. Well... we couldn't find one for a certain bike and so out of desperation took one apart. The PCB was sealed in some epoxy we had to chip away. A big capacitor would inevitably be 'leaking' as you say. We would carefully chip away the epoxy until we could unsolder the suspect capacitor, carry it to Radio Shack, they would cross reference the number on it and we would solder in the new one. Worked like a charm. The new capacitor was usaully a tenth the size of the old one. Soon racers were sending us black boxes to 'fix' from all over.

Does anyone know the bellhousing to end of tailshaft housing length for the early 5-speed? The one that came in 280Zs? Is it the same as the type B 4 speed? Do the drive shafts interchange between the type B 4 speed and the early 5 speed ?(280Z not ZX)

PM sent

Old thread I know, I'm trying to find a spherical bearing solution for the T/C rods. Well I called Crawford and talked to Doug, they no longer have the patterns. Does anybody have a set I could possibly have duplicated?

Bill: here is a link to an old thread that in post #16 I posted two links to some issues guys had had years before me with the e-brake. Here's a link to that thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=110381 In the first linked thread bjhines (post #6) tells about how to adjust the rear drums using the parking brake. Here's a link http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread...hlight=e-brake That might not help you. But in the second linked thread Wayne Karnes explains in post number 2 how the automatic adjuster work and how to fix em. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread...ighlight=brake Good luck

I recently had my car in a million pieces including removing the dash. Well now my windshield wipers won't park. (return to their home position) They also don't work in the intermiten (sp) mode. I searched and read one post stating that there is a amplifier under the glove box. My car is a 77 280Z. Anybody know what I did?

Do you have coil overs? If you have stock diameter springs, I don't think there is much room for the springs to move inside the towers. The procedure would involve elongating the bolt holes for the upper mount with a die ginder or whatever in the direction of the engine. It could be done to just the front or back or both (rear tires like camber too)

Do they? what, a 720 has a bellhousing with the bolt pattern rotated and mounts to accomidate? I remember the IMSA GT1 turbo Zcar with the L28 tilted drastically

Pyro: that was the first thing I thought when I hear this sound. But just so everyone knows for the record, on an L-2.8, it won't go on backwards. In my searching this topic on this site, I ran acrossed a thread where one member suggested that very thing as being a possiblity. When I put it on, after I torqued the pressure plate down, I thought... are you sure you got it... nah, it'll only go on one way. tee hee hee That was the dumb mistake I was refering to. It was definetly the wrong pressure plate. so.... anyhow, how 'bout it Zcar gurus, how to identify transmissions? and yes, I have searched, maybe wrong keyword. Thanks everyone for so much help. oh, and can you normally install the slave without taking the clutch apart? In other words, if you unbolted your slave cylinder, can you bolt it back on without pressing the fork foward or anything?

olderthenme: where did you get your urethane spoiler from?

I called Courtesy Nissan today and they are sending me another pressure plate and UPS pickup order for the old one. The guy said there were two pressure plates, one is 73 to present and the other is 74 to present. They have different part numbers. Oddly, he never asked if it was a 4 speed or 5 speed. Do all L-2.8s use the same clutch? Is this where the difference in throw out bearing collar heights comes from? Is there any information about how to identify transmissions? Do they have casting numbers?

it's normal, don't sweat it.

drum roll please.... IT WAS THE WRONG CLUTCH!!!! sorry for shouting. The clutch plate is the wrong one for this pressure plate or the pressure plate is the wrong one for this clutch. The rivets that secure the spring plate on the clutch hit the rivets that secure the spring plates in the PP. The new pressure plate is thicker by 1/4 - 1/2" then the one that came with the tranny. And the springs inside the pressure plate are different. The clutch plate looks a little different, 4 springs instead of 6, but dimensionally it looks like it might be the same. They were both sourced from Courtesy. I feel better now, I thought I had made a dumb mistake. Anybody know what I got here? Anyhow, I'm thinking about putting the clutch that came with the tranny in, it doesn't look that bad. Thanks everyone for the help Oh here's the part numbers off the box pressure plate 30210-N3100 clutch 30100-N4225 I'm on battery power out in the garage so I can't cross them with the part CD tonight.

I removed the slave cylinder and as the bolts came out, the fork pushed the slave back, like there was still pressure on the fork. Then I started the car in gear (up on stands) and no noise. So I looked and the wheel is spinning, I had to step on the brake pretty hard to stall the engine out, the clutch seems to hold well with the slave removed and no noise. I don't think I could reinstall the slave if I wanted to, is this normal? Even pressing the piston all the way back into the slave I still need about a quarter inch to line up the bolts. So then I got to wondering if I had enough free play. I reread the FSM and realized it takes 1 - 3 mm at the clevis, but also 7 - 12 mm master free play. So I backed the rod out until it fell out the back of the clevis. But I still can't remount the slave.

Yes I have, all the gears and reverse. It's a clutch issue, I'm almost certain. Thanks for all your help, everyone. I'm home now so I'm going to try preith's suggestion of removing the slave. (good idea, why didn't I think of it last night) And then I guess it's 5 speed bench press time. Will let you know what I find.

The clutch feels perfectly normal. Start the car in neutral, everything sounds fine, push in the clutch pedal, no sound, shift the car into gear, still no sound, then begin to let the clutch out and where you would expect it to start to engage (about half way up from fully depressed) you hear this horrible rubbing noise. Push the clutch pedal back in and it stops, let it out all the way and the sound gets worse, the clutch slips, the car moves a little like it's trying and the motor spins free.

Pressure plate is torqued to spec. My car is a 77 280Z, the tranny is a 5 speed out of 280. I don't remember what year they said it was from, but it was supposed to be a 280, I think 77 or 78.