Horatio

believe it or not, that was one of the swaps that made it on my short list. What killed it was the un-godly price that a set of lights from a 67' GTO was going for. Didn't want to swap in a poor set. A good set with the case, lenses and wiring/sockets was over $300!! My $100 mustang lights won. I'd love to see how it turned out if you have any pics.

Orthopedic surgeon is a great guy. Dr. James Lebolt. He rebuilt Donnovan Mcnabbs ACL when he ruptured it back in '06. Had him back on the field in six months! I like to think that this surgeon only works on the most finely tuned athletes!!!:mrgreen: (you'd laugh if you saw the extra poundage my poor knee was "trying" to support when I got hurt). Completely ruptured ACL, torn MCL, bruised meniscus and tibia. I'm two weeks out from the injury now. Doesn't hurt anymore. Been at PT for the last week and a half to regain flexibility prior to surgery. Surgery scheduled for June 29th. Complete ACL reconstruction using a donor tendon from a section of the tendon that holds the kneecap to the tibia. Old ACL will be cleaned out and the new one screwed into place. Should be back on my feet a few weeks after surgery. I have a couple weeks left before surgery. Gonna try to get some work done on the car beforehand.

Anyone know the size of the nuts that hold the R200 onto the mustache bar? Lost mine during the swap.

This requires the use of one of the two stock rubber bushings on each side. Anyone see a problem with using this kit along with poly bushings? I know you're not suppose to use two poly bushings because of the rigidity that it causes. Don't know if the flexing allowed with the ball and socket would be enough to keep things from being to rigid, as the two poly bushing setup would be.

Thanks Richard. A few thou, huh? How 'bout really, really close but not quite touching!!!! Now, I know several have done this upgrade. Am I being ignored because there is an assumption I have not searched, or is everyone else as clueless about this as me??

Found this also. Seems to explain things a bit more. Suppose I could cut up my old MC to make a shim from the old mounting plate. MASTER CYLINDER PUSH ROD ADJUSTMENT: NOTE: Correct push rod length is essential to reliable braking. If the rod is too long, it causes the compensating ports in the master cylinder to be closed off, eventually resulting in brake drag. If the push rod is too short there will be excessive brake pedal travel and possibly there will be a groaning noise from the brake booster. Use the following procedure to check the push rod adjustment. CAUTION: Wear protective goggles when performing the following procedure! Brake fluid may erupt from the master cylinder with sufficient force to cause personal injury. 1. Remove the master cylinder reservoir cap or cover. 2. While an assistant slightly depresses the brake pedal, watch for fluid to erupt in the reservoir when the pedal is depressed 3/8" to 1/2". This indicates correct push rod length. On dual system master cylinder, fluid may spurt only from the front reservoir. 3. If the pedal travels more that 1/2" before master cylinder fluid erupts, the push rod is too short. If nothing happens no matter how far the pedal is depressed, the push rod is probably too long. 4. To adjust the push rod length, first remove the master cylinder from the power booster. Using a pair of pliers, turn the push rod adjusting nut in to shorten and out to lengthen the push rod. 5. If the push rod is non-adjustable, use shims between the master cylinder and power booster to shorten it. If too short, remove existing shims or remove the push rod from the booster and replace it with one of the proper length. 6. Install the master cylinder onto the power booster and recheck push rod length. 7. Connect the vacuum hose(s) to the power booster. 8. Reconnect the ground cable to the battery. 9. Make sure the braking system works correctly before moving the vehicle. If the pedal is soft or has excessive travel, it may be necessary to bleed the entire braking system.

Can this be done during a bench bleed?

Ok, so the only thing i'm coming across on-line is adjusting the pushrod length while the complete system is intact and full of fluid. Adjust by: - opening the cap - have someone depress the brakes - observe the fluid in the resevoir for movement You are looking for a "slight" movement of the fluid. If no movement - Shorten the pushrod If "excess" movement - Lengthen the pushrod Now, can anyone explain what "slight" and "excessive" movement is? Also, Does anyone have any idea what the initial setting should be to maximize my chances of not having to adjust things once I have it installed? (i.e. 1/8" from the psiton, 1/4" from teh piston"????) Sooo, the push rod should not sit flush to the MC piston then??

Picked up a remanufatured 1973 master vac. Also found myself a nice 79-81 15/16 MC (two separate resevoirs and says 15/16 and Nabco). I adjusted the push rod length adjusting nut so it was bottomed out. Reaction disk is in place. Seems that the push rod is still too long for the MC to sit flush against the MV housing (it sits out by about 3/8"). Am I correct that the push rod needs to sit flush against MC piston? Any suggestions? Should I just grind down the adjusting nut so it will fit? I thought the issue with this upgrade was the push rod needing to be lengthened? Here's a pic of what I have:

Well, it's official. Completely ruptured my ACL. Going to see the orthopedic surgeon that takes care of the Hokies. Recovery time of approx 6 weeks. Rear end rebuild to resume IMMEDIATLEY following recovery!

Oh, you tease!!!

MRI yesterday. 45 minutes of itching hell! can't move at all and everything starts to itch! And..... why don't they put a T.V. over the damn thing or something?? Meet with orthopedist tomorrow to find out results. I've noticed that my tibia is sitting considerably further back under my knee than it use to. There's a concave "arch" from my knee cap down to the tibia. Yikes! Lot's of fluid in there too. I'm expecting him to want to stick me with a needle and remove some of it tomorrow. Lovin' it!!!

Progress will be halted temporarily. I'm currently sitting on the couch with me knee propped up and iced. Had a softball related injury. Orthopedists suspects torn acl/mcl. MRI Monday. Anyone have/had this injury? How long can I expect to be lame before I can bear weight on the knee and walk "normally"?

I'm hopeful... hopeful that I can pull it off so I don't have to buy another shell to complete my Ls1 project! No way I can go back to stock at this point!

Here it is. It's Warren's car. Stole the pic from his build page.

yup. white 280zx. Don't think he was from Australia though.

Really? I've seen it on a 280zx, but not yet on an S30 body. I'd love to see it!

I got the other light opening cut out. Haven't figured out how to secure the lights yet. I set the tailgate and spoiler on to get an idea of the final product. The black lower trim is a spray painted cardboard template. I'm happy with the results so far. The spoiler and lower trim seem to accomodate for the large light size. Still need to fab the lower trim in metal and tie the rear section into the deck. Then, a bunch of fine tuning and i'll have the rear "done" for now. Also built a fuel door for the cell. Figured i'd use one of the tool compartment lids. I pulled the one from behind the passenger... battery will be relocated here anyways. I'll be making a box for the battery to hide in behind the pass seat.

IMHO, a little honesty goes a long way. Show up and just ask him what's up. Tell him you your concerned about how long it's taking him. Just be cool about it....six pack of beer would help . Don't push the guy by showing up with your trailer unannounced, then expect the guy to do a great job after you've basically threatened him (Don't piss off the people serving your food, taking care of your children, or doing work on your car!!!). Looks to me like you've got a couple choices. Be up front with him and see what's up. If he can't get to it in the time frame you've expected then hunt for another body guy... simple as that.

It's posts like these that keep me inspired! Thanks!

Nasty rust. It'll be worse than it looks when you get into it. I'd suggest finding a donor section from another car. Post in the "parts wanted" section. I tried shaping some metal to replace this same area. It was a huge PITA. Found someone who was willing to cut up a donor and send it my way. Turned out great! Easiest way to do this.

I'm having trouble with pages not refreshing. Every time I visit the site I have to refresh to get the current one. Even within the sites various sub-sections, pages need to be refreshed to view the current page. All pages i'm visiting are the ones I last viewed. Anyone have any ideas?

+1 Can't beat them. I've got a 700 BDL in 30-06. Awesome rifle. I traded up a savage 30-06 after trouble with their double trigger mechanism. I had originally wanted the BDL, but opted for the savage for it's reputation of "out of the box accuracy" and considerable price difference between it and others. I wasn't to impressed with the action. Sloppy, loose bolt too. IMO... spend a bit more and get a good one. You can find a decent used 700 at used gun shops. Just like anything else in life, you get what you pay for. 700 model remingtons have a rep that has withstood for YEARS.

Thought for sure it would show him slapping some hooker in there somewhere!! Too funny! http://realtruthonline.blogspot.com/2009/03/wow-no-sham-vince-shamwow-guy-slap.html

Love of JDM, So sorry for the threadjacking!!