Horatio

Anyone welded the end pieces of the rear bumper to the center section and shave things clean?? If so, PICS?? I'm considering this for a cleaner look and to save some cash on rechroming (chromer charges per piece!). I'm concerned about fit once things are welded together. Guess I could get it on the body to fit like I want it then tack it prior to welding. Did some searching buit couldn't find any info on anyone trying this.

No word yet. Sorry. haven't had the need to run out to autozone lately where he works. I'll try and make it out there this weekend.

Wasn't sure where to post this. Anyone know what I can use to clean the "adhesive" from the tail light lenses? I've separated the housing form the lenses and need to get all the gunk off. Also, the PO used blue gasket caulk to re-seal one of them. Any ideas on how to get this stuff off as well. I don't want to do any damage to the lenses while using chemicals to strip off the gunk. Also... Anyone fabricated a new strip to replace the chrome/black one that splits the tail lights. I'm not a fan off the stock pieces and i'm looking for some inspiration to replace them?

I have no idea. I don't even know the condition of the car. I'll get some more details and see if I can get out to it and take some pictures to post next time I see him.

Not sure what wheels he has on the car. I don't think he's interested in splitting the car up though. You can go to Jim Cook's web page or do a search of "240Z Jim Cook" and see some pictures. Not sure which body kit it is. I know it's kinda old and he also said it was a widebody kit.

Anyone interested in a Jim Cook car? There's a guy that I've run into a couple times down here that has asked me if I wanted to buy his car. He says it's a full Jim Cook body kit. Rolling I think, less drive train. I believe it has a 260 base. He said he had told me he'd let it go for 1K. Not really sure about condition though. I think it's been sitting for a while. If' you're interested let me know and I'll talk to him for ya. He works at an advanced auto out here I think.

As far as legality is concerned... I thought they just had to be functional and adjusted properly. I know they'll fail an inspection out here in VA if you have auxilliary lights that don't function.

I don't like it at all... I love it! Looks like the doors vents could pretty easily be fabbed into a 240Z. Wonder if anyone has ever tried anything like that?

The rubberized coating sounds like a good alternative, however, I really would like to have a glossy finish. Seems like the rubberized coatings would be a matte finish and would not be the best surface for removing road dirt. I've got my old stock set that i'll do some experimenting on.

I think they're powder coated now. I'm just worried about whatever I paint them with flaking off with all compression and flexing of the springs. I'd hate to get everthing put togetherto find the paint falling off after a couple miles of driving.

I have a set of red Tokico springs that I’d like to be black. Anyone painted theirs with good success?

Ahhhhh! Genius!! Man, that's a great idea.. and the perfect solution! Thanks soo much!

Well, I was cleaning everything up, got most of the rust out and thought I should test the area to see how thin it was. I put a putty knife right through it! Sooo, area has been completely cut out and is currently being preped for replacement/welding. I did end up shooting some rust converter into the junction of the firewall and innner fender though. i figured that sand blasting may not even get in there and that a liquid seeping in there may do a better job. Only time will tell! Thanks all! I'll post some pics soon. Also, I made a home made spindle pin puller with galvanized pipe parts from home depot. Cost me about twenty bucks. Worked pretty well on one of the pins but I can't get the other one out. I'll try and post plans for the puller some time soon.

So, I went to pull the bushings out of my moustache bar for my R200 swap. Spent about 45 minutes cutting them out with a recip saw and my pneumatic hammer. I was so pleased with myself when i got them out! Went to do some light reading in the library (i.e. bathroom). While looking at the Black Dragon catalog I saw a little asterisk next to the urethane bushing that said that I was supposed to leave the sleeve in!!! Good thing I was where I was! Anyway, they also list a rubber bushing without one of those annoying little asterisks. Anyone know if the rubber replacement bushing requires removal of the original sleeve? Anyone use an original rubber replacement bushing? I'd rather go with the poly bushings but don't want to fork out the dough for another R200 moustache bar.

Thanks ya'll... i'll keep you posted! Got myself some wire wheels and cup brushes. I'll be getting everything cleaned up and covered in converter/primer this weekend. Got a bit of practicing to do with the welder before I swiss cheese the inner fender!!

Yeah, i've considered sand blasting it. Don't know if that's neccessary though. The photo I posted is prior to a more aggressive surface prep. Everythings really in pretty decent condition (with the exception of the holes/mess I made while removing the battery tray). The area i'm mostly concerned about is the junction of the firewall and the inner fender. Doesn't appear to be anything more than surface rust there. No rust thru on the inside of the firewall either. I think i'd prefer to clean up the area as best as possible and hit it with some rust converter. Any suggestions on a good brand or are they all pretty much the same (something I could get from Autozone/Advanced is preferable).

Hey ya'll, I'll be cleaning up my battery tray area shortly and need some advice. I've done a rough cleaning/stripping of the area and have found a considerable amount of pitting but otherwise things look really solid (See photo). I'd like to treat the areas I can't get to with some rust converter (pits and the junction where the firewall meets the battery area). I'd then like to touch up the area with some bondo to smooth things out. I'll be welding up the holes where the spot welds were removed from the battery tray. Any other suggestions/ideas? Any problems with applying bondo over a rust converter? Any suggested rust converters?

Keep me in mind when you get ready to sell them. I'm feeling adventurous and may try to remount the ones I have before I spend the money on new ones. Definitley PM me when you want to get rid of them though! Thanks!

I think I may have figured out a way to install these things without using the studs. It'll requir manufacturing a plate with clips that would be welded to the hood. Would also require minor modification of the underside of the vent to create grooves/slots for the clips to grab onto. Plate could be welded directly to the hood, eliminating the nuts/bolt look altogether. Ultimately it would be a much cleaner look. I'll have to put myself in front of the hood/vents tonight and do a bit more imagining to see if i can get it to work. Seems simple enough though. vents should hold nice and tight and would still be removeable if absolutley necessary.

Hmmm,.... How long have your repairs been in use?

Anyone succesfully repair/attach broken hood vent studs for the 77' vents? All mine are broken off. Trying to avoid buying a new set. Anyone have a decent set they'd be willing to let go of?

Hah, yeah... eight lugs per wheel and lots of loctite!! Can't imagine the feeling of rolling down the interstate and watching one of your wheels roll away in the rearview!

Man, so sorry. Scary stuff. Did you have spacers behind your wheels? Aziza, isn't that how you lost your wheel... spacer came loose?? Ever get that figured out? I know you were looking for some sort of locking lug or something?

Anyone purchased one of these as reference for their swap? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LS1-LS2-LS6-LS7-ENGINE-INSTALLATION-SWAP-WIRING-BOOK_W0QQitemZ370045127407QQcmdZViewItem

Thought leaving primer on without paint was nearly as bad as bare metal? Figured i needed something to seal the inside surface.