MatMan

I have "see through" wires that purportedly enable one to see the electric pulse from the cap to the plug if you want them to go with that cap. boxing + shipping and they are yours!

I have a friend at work who just purchased an 86 Turbo with a cracked turbo side exhaust manifold. Anybody out there have one laying around that would be used as a daily driver? Please PM me or write matmorrow@att.net

deleted by OP

I have had good results with Dunlop. Dry traction stick is great. They are wearing a bit fast now, could be because I am running huge negative camber. going bald on the inside doesn't lend itself to good wet traction. I wish [Yokohama] A008s were still made...(still, bad wet characteristics, but I try not to run in the rain!)...

I have found out that, unlike the past at sears, any tool that has some kind of power to it (electrical, air, etc.) has NO warranty. Only the hand-type tools have the warranty. I remember when it didn't matter what kind of tool it was, a lifetime warranty was just that.

there's a place called Mac's in Citrus Heights that carries the stuff, as well as TONS of auto/industrial paint/finish supplies. IIRC, the pint I bought was somewhere around $14 http://macsdist.com/

There is a thread on "the other site" where member Arne states this: And he posted this pic: (I don't know if you will be able to see it without being an "other site" member) http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=33527&d=1262046277

I apologize, I thought RON was RON wherever it was measured. Was this incorrect thinking?

You are still getting detonation on 98??? I would pay an extra $.50/gal if I could get 98 in CA... Union 76 used to sell 100, but I haven't seen that since around '98. Maybe a couple degrees less timing would help a bit....

Blockage in the head? Maybe something called "extrudahone" can unblock/smooth things out?

Well, since there haven't been any replies, I went and tried to fix it by tapping with the 9/16" tap, and then trying to get the spark plug kit's tap to work. I think that one's a 16mm. After about 5 rounds of 9/16" tap then kit tap, then repeat, the kit tap FINALLY caught and cut some aluminum!!! After what seemed to be an hour of cutting, backing off, and cutting some more, backing all the way out to remove shards and shavings, putting new grease on the tap and repeating, I was able to get the insert with the new plug in!! I am frightened, though, because the insert gave good resistance for about 5 revolutions and then went easy. I REALLY hope I didn't strip the head. I hope the threadlock stuff works. The truck started right up, and I let it idle for about 10 mins, and was able to drive it about 25 feet to make sure the thing didn't blow out the head. Success, I think.

Hello. I am having trouble and need a bit of guidance. I have searched, so please keep flaming and pointing to the search button to a minimum. I discovered a couple days ago that either a PO or a car "tech" did a sneaky, dastardly deed by hiding a stripped spark plug hole in the aluminum head of my Toy Tundra, 4.7 V8. In the interest of being thorough, this post will be lengthy. The plug I pulled out had a green negative electrode, and scale all around the circumference of the firing ring, and in one spot, the treads were gnarled with the same scale. Nasty pic #1 Nasty pic #2 All of the other 7 had tan electrodes with no scale at all. The spark plugs are 14X1.25, so first, I tried to run a 14mm spark plug thread chaser into the hole, but it never seated (never got tight). When I tried to install the new plug, it just fell into the hole, and pulled right out. Stripped completely. I am assuming the scale on the threads was the culprit here. I procured a number 14 spark plug insert kit from the local NAPA which includes a tap and various lengths of inserts. Looks like this one. The directions read that one taps out the head, coats the spark plug with "oil", threads the appropriate insert onto the plug, coats the outer threads of the insert with the included adhesive, and just reinstall the plug to the seat. My problem: the tap will go into the hole, but try as I might, including standing on a ladder, with near all my weight on the ratchet, the tap will not cut new threads. I have coated the tap with grease to minimize shavings falling into the cylinder, which seems to help. I have pulled a few shards of some kind of black rubberized material, the likes of which I have never seen. Could there already be an insert in there? I don't think so because 1) the new spark plug falls into the hole, all the way to the seat: and 2 the old plug is the same thread size/pitch as the new ones. I see that I have two options, maybe you guys can offer more: 1) It occurred to me that maybe the piston is resting right at the top of the cylinder, not allowing the tap to do it's job. I was able to start the motor and shut it down after about 5 or so revolutions, but I wasn't able to get the tap to bite. Could it be that the shut down of the motor always has this particular cylinder at TDC? It's the rear cylinder, pass side. Would just tbumping the starter move the cylinder enough to tap it out? 2) At NAPA and ACE I was unable to procure the next size up from 14X1.25 tap, I was hoping to find a 14.5X1.25 or even a 15X1.25, to no avail. Would a 9/16" tap, if I can get it to bite about 1/4" be enough to get the kit's tap to work? The threads of the plugs are about 7/8" deep. I am in a pickle. Auburn Toyota quoted me $3000 for a new head and $1600 to remove/install helicoil/replace my head. During my research, I found that time-serts are a much better answer than the helicoil because the coils are apt to 1) break under high loads and 2) back out the next time I replace the plugs. Thanks in advance.

If it's stock, there may be a tendency for the entire throttle linkage to bind, and then all the sudden let go, causing a rather sudden jerk/surge. On mine, a shot of white lithium spray grease on all the ball/socket joints does the trick loosening everything up.

I would say at the pick-points at the top of the motor. Use a cherry picker.

Well, I have to do it, too. Every time... even when adding to MY OWN ad! +1 for annoying.

Heh. I hear you, dr_hunt. Next time, I spray down the area I am mowing with the hose before I start... lesson learned. The rule is that you have to mow before 10am. I started about 8:30, which would get me behind the barn somewhere around 9:15/9:30. It was still about 90* then.

Oh, yeah. By the way, the red car I have in the "cars for sale" classifieds is now spattered pink, courtesy of CalFire! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=140681

Bah, nobody was called for that, either. After I put that out, I was forced to sit on the couch for an hour to make sure it didn't flame back up, that's all...All the while, my little sis was parading the neighborhood kids through our living room giving the tour-speach, "And here's where my brother just tried to burn our house down!" Yes, that's YOUR wife I am talking about!!!

Funny story! Good news! The battalion chief just stopped by to let us know that he had a long discussion with the CalFire investigator regarding the facts of the fire. Apparently Mike (the Bat. Chief) was under the impression (thanfully for me) that there was no direct evidence that my machine started the fire, and that the amount of resources used (5 stations and 3 birds dropping 5 loads) was excessive for a (his words) one acre fire. While the argument still could be made that if I weren't there, no fire would have happened, the fact remains that my intent and precautions (fire extinguishers and water available as well as the time of day of operation) alleviates me from being held liable. Another factor that was spoken about was the fact that I always keep my property (a bit over 3 acres) well-groomed, and this was the very first time ANY emergency-type department has ever been called to my place.....ever in my life. I didn't even have to mention that we donate to the CDF (California Department of Forestry) fire department every year! They are going to get a good donation this year! PHEW!

He he, The fire Captain had me believing all liability would be covered, but that was just for the ground-crew call out, according to the fire investigator, fly time and drops are on the call-ee. I really thought that my property taxes, on top of all the other taxes I pay would cover this kind of thing. I do have 1 mil umbrella, I guess I need to pull out the policy and start reading.

Had an exciting morning. I mowed my lower pasture because it had been 3 weeks since the last time and it was getting pretty shabby. It had also been about two months since I mowed the bit of weeds behind my barn (ca. 1890) and I wanted to make sure that this especially dry summer didn't take it's toll on the barn. I was about 10 minutes into a maybe 300X140 foot uphill slope parcel behind the barn when it felt like the mower was running especially HOT. I first do a look-see around the sides of the riding mower I am on, find nothing, then look off to the side and I see a wall of flame:eek:, about 6 ft wide, and about 10 ft tall! Luckily, it was on the far side of where the barn sits, but I knew I had to try to get that fire out! Even before Grumpy posted about keeping fire extinguishers in your workplace, I had a pair stashed in the barn (now needing a recharge). Those did NOTHING. CRAP! I ran down and unhooked my 1/2" irrigation line, and dragged it back the the fire where I called out to my neighbors "FIRE FIRE, GET SOME WATER OVER HERE!" About what seemed 5 minutes later, 3 guys strolled out... and watched. I succeeded in getting the uphill side abated, and turned my attention to the bottom side that seemed to be whipping up... One guy was holding a motorcycle helmet and actually said, and I quote, "What the F@#&! are you doing?" to which I calmly replied, "I'm putting out a fire, I would appreciate some help" He just watched. The other two finally pulled their thumbs out of their asses and at least gave a try. That was when the uphill side decided to rekindle, and, being pushed by the slight winds up the hill, took off. There was no way I could keep up with my little 1/2" line. CalFire was called, and the convict ground crew showed up but not before the spotter and tanker planes started dumping retardant. They were there QUICK and got the fire out in less than 1/2 hour. Maybe 2 acres total burned. No structures, the barn is safe. I owe the inept neighbor a hose for his horse waterer and a battery/station for the electric horse fence. Now here is my real question: The fire chief told me that I was following the rules with having the extinguishers and water near, as well as mowing before 10AM, my mower also checked out safety-wise, so I would not be cited, BUT the investigator told me that while all that is fine, I would still get a bill for fly time and retardant drops. ANYONE know what THAT will set me back, and will homeowner's insurance cover it???? Exciting morning. [edit] I learned today that dry chemical extinguishers aer NO GOOD when it comes to grass fires. They do cool the blaze down a bit, but after it dissipates, the flame takes off.[/edit]

+1!

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=140681

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=140681