thehelix112

Sorry to be a pest and thread hi-jack, but how long is the LD28 rod? Dave

Would someone care to measure the gear widths of the KA tranny so we can see whats what? Dave

The reverse light sensor is in the right place as far as I can see. Only the 1st/2nd selector fork is bigger, and even then only by 2mm, the other selector shafts are in the same place so the sensors will work. You will need either an electronic speedo or a mechanical speedo drive though. I haven't bothered as yet but let us know if you find out what suits different setups. Can definitely machine the bell to fit the bigger bearing. Simpler for backyarders like myself to just replace the bearing though. Dave

I was talking about a L making 350rwhp. Plus, not all SRs rev that much higher. Dave

Guys, Sorry about that: Gearbox specs: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105983 SR Gearbox tutorial: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105982 Dave

Here is some info about gearboxes that I just got while doing my SR onto L conversion. 71A gearbox (Early 240Z) Total Length: 830mm Bell Length: 350mm Box Length (sandwich to flange): 480mm Shifter Position: 435mm Bearing Widths (Gear/Counter mm/Main mm): Input/16/18 3/18/18 2/18/18 1/16/20.5 Selector shaft diameters (1st2nd/3rd4th/5thRev) mm: 14/14/14 71B gearbox (240K/280ZX I think) Total Length: 790mm Bell Length: 350mm Box Length (sandwich to end): 440mm Shifter Position: 395mm Bearing Widths (Gear/Counter mm/Main mm): Input/18/18.5 3/18/18 2/18/16 1/22/18 Selector shaft diameters (1st2nd/3rd4th/5thRev) mm: 14/14/14 71C gearbox (S14 SR20) Total Length: 840mm Bell Length: 350mm Box Length (sandwich to end): 490mm Shifter Position: 445mm Bearing Widths (Gear/Counter mm/Main mm): Input/20/24.5 3/21/21 2/20.5/20.5 1/23/20.5 Selector shaft diameters (1st2nd/3rd4th/5thRev) mm: 16/14/14 All lengths are +/- 5mm. Gear widths are +/- 0.5mm Dave

SR gearbox onto L tutorial Parts Required: L6 gearbox SR gearbox New L6 gearbox countershaft bearing (optional) Part Numbers: 63/22C3, TMB3/22C3, or 22BC0655X. Call CBC (http://www.conbear.com). Specific Tools Required: 16mm drill bit Dremel with a small grinding disc. Optionals: 16mm H7 reamer bit, 41/64ths drill bit. Step 1: Remove L6 bell housing from gearbox. To do this unbolt the bolts halfway on the gearbox that go from the extension housing through the sandwich plate to the bell. Also unbolt the cover on the inside of the bell that the clutch arm sits on. You will then need to remove the circlip on the front of the input shaft bearing. Use circlip pliers and a screw driver. Put everything aside as you will be using some of it again. Remove SR bell housing from gearbox following the same procedure. Step 2: Remove the SR countershaft front bearing using two chisel point screw drivers to get it started, then lever it off against the bearing (as opposed to the gear) so you don't ruin the gear. Step 3: Reinstall the 240Z countershaft bearing. Either reusing the one from the L6 box, or a new one. Gently knock it down with a rubber mallet. Step 4: Drill out the 1st/2nd selector shaft hole in the L6 bell housing using a 15 or 16mm drill bit then a 16mm H7 reaming bit. Or you could try a 41/64ths bit if you happen to have one lying around (thats what I ended up using). Step 5: Get a dremel/rotary tool and grind away 1mm or so from the countershaft casting on the inside side of the gearbox bell housing. This is necessary as the casting has been modified between the 71B and the 71C to accommodate the wider gears assumedly. You also need to put a chamfer on the edge which is square standard. I made this chamfer between 1 and 2mm big. Step 6: Trial fit this bell onto the SR gearbox being careful of the oil supply cup on the upper passenger side just above the 1st mainshaft gear. Rotate the input shaft by hand. If it is very difficult to turn you need to die grind some more off the countershaft casting in the bell. Step 7: When you can bolt the gearbox up and rotate the input shaft easily you are just about ready to bolt the box together. You could possibly have trouble with the 1st/2nd input shaft not wanting to go into the bell housing because this metal doesn't have any oil sitting on it, I suggest you squirt a dab in there. If the selector doesn't go in it can slide backwards (engaging 1st gear). If this happens and the gearbox shifter is not in the 1st position you won't be able to select any gears (except 5th/Rev) from then on. If putting some oil in the 1st/2nd selector shaft hole doesn't solve the problem, you can put the gearbox in the 1st position before you bolt it up and it will be fine. Worked for me atleast. Step 8: Reassemble the gearbox as you took it apart and you're ready to go. Don't forget the circlip on the mainshaft bearing. Use the L6 front gearbox cover, clutch arm and throw out bearing carrier. Additional issues: The SR gearbox has the bolts for the gearbox x-member around 35mm further back than the 71B box. Depends on your car what you do to fix this. Here is what I did, tad dogey, but it works. This gearbox is also 50mm longer at the end of the tailshaft. I took a tailshaft that was used on a 71B box and had it shortened by 50mm and it fits just fine (after you remove the cover for the front spline as it doesn't fit into the gearbox). Big thanks to Mad1600 for helping me and motivation. Pics to follow. Dave

Sorry to thread hi-jack a bit, but have any of you guys tried an SR box behind an L? I just did the conversion, which you can do at your home with a die grinder and a drill and an afternoon. I know of one fellow pushing 244rwkw (maybe 330-350rwhp for you USers) through one for years without any issues and the SR gearboxes are reputedly relatively strong. The gears are around 16% wider than the std 240Z 5-speed I was using anyway. Has anyone pulled down a Z32 box to see if they offer any advantage over this? Specs on some gearboxes: http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6340 Tutorial on the conversion (with pics soon): http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6393 Dave

I wouldn't really agree with that. A proper controller will feed the boost pressure in to the top of the diaphram on the wastegate adding the spring pressure to the boost pressure force holding it shut. So say you have a spring that will open when there is a 5psi difference across the diaphram. If you run 15psi boost, you then require 15psi more backpressure in the exhaust to force it open. TimZ, I reckon you won't know that car going from a shitter T-series to a nice new BB. *ducks from the flames*. The GT42R compressor is absolutely bloody fantastic, soo tractible. The only complaints are the size of the housings. Have you seen http://members.shaw.ca/kfgroup/Turbo_&_Upgrades.htm ? Are you going the GT4294R or GT4202R? An upgrade you might want to look at if surge becomes an issue is the HKS T51R-SPL front cover. The holes around the outside of the comrpessor inlet are designed to counter surge. Look forward to seeing some pics/vids. Dave Dave

As I understood it you want to get the maximum gap between the pulses in the collector/shared runner areas so that you don't get pressure spikes and reduced flow. Because of this 1,2,3 and then 4,5,6 I believe is preferable as it leaves the largest time for the pulse to make its way through the turbo (given the L6 firing order). Dave

Errr.. just buy a nut? Its a M18x1.5 thread. AUD0.45 Dave

Fair enough. I have only run 4 strip passes ever also, and have done only 20 mins street tuning (no dyno). Elevation of where I ran is just over 1/8th mile. I'd still be looking at a larger turbo. It'll be a damn site easier than rebuilding the engine and yeild a lot more gains I think. Dave

What he said. I ran 115mph on 10psi. Dave

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/tech_center/tech_center.html Read. Dave

I've got 2.5" piping to and from and I get full boost just over 4000 too. Why on earth did you make the hot pipe smaller than the cooler pipe? Should be the other way around I think. Have you had it back on the dyno? Is the peak power the same do you think? Dave

Hey, I have a 2.5" screamer pipe on my setup. Can hardly hear it at 11psi. It might make more noise at higher boost, but I love it. Dave

My $0.02: An engines reliability is determined by ensuring no detonation and not revving it beyond what its built for. A turbos reliability depends on a couple of things, ensuring that the pressure in the turbine housing isn't too high that it blows seals (this is affected by the amount of air you are trying to pass through it relative to the cam/head/exhaust manifold/exhaust), and not spinning it beyond what its designed to do. I have also heard that turbos with restrictors tend to blow seals because the turbine is sucking so hard it creates a vacuum between restrictor and compressor and effectively pulls the shaft towards the restrictor. Can't think of anything else atm. Dave

Looks like a weapon. Street car? You're joking. Hehe.. What times has it run? Dave

You could just buy a BSPT die and die the fitting that you want to go in there. Thats what I did. The 1/8 BSPT thread is smaller than the 1/8 NPT though they are the same diameter at some point. Thus you're not changing the thread on the NPT fitting, you're just making it all smaller. I'm tired so sorry if that makes no sense. Dave

Nice interesting discussion on sonic choke on ozdat forum recently: http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6286 Was proposed that an increase in displacement will only change at what RPM the sonic choke occurs. If you want more power you have to get the head to flow more air, either through less restrictive valves/ports/manifolding, or forced induction. Dave

Autronic story: Paid $350 for the latest chip. Wasn't the one I needed after being told that it was. Cost me another $80 and a month to get it changed to the ACTUAL latest chip. Motec or bust. Dave

Use whatever system you want. Do some research into which will be easier to wire up for ignition inputs. Turbo dizzy is optical? Dave

http://ozdat.com/ozdatonline/featurecars/JamesF/JamesF_dat.htm#Zed Ozdat owner's old car. Around 250rwkw. Dave

Compare the spec sheets is all I can do: http://www.haltech.com.au/downloads/e6x_spec.pdf http://www.microtechefi.com/IMAGES/spec_sheets/Microtech%20LT12s.pdf Haltech has 32x22 maps for fuel/ignition, Microtech has 16x16. Haltech has 4 PWM outputs, Microtech has 2. Both have 4 ign drivers. Both have 8 injector drivers. Both have plenty of fuel and ignition correction maps though the Haltech looks like it doesn't have MAP correction on the ignition which I find hard to believe. Stupid 1 page spec sheets. Dave

Hey guys, I wrote the ozdat enginedesign calculator. Not sure where I pulled the LD28 being 86mm from. Sorry about that. I'll go change it to 84.5. Glad its getting used though. Dave