KTM-EXC

Is this still in the works?

I thought I was the only one with XXR 513's but aparently not. The front fit almost perfect but the rears could be a little more flush, I might buy a small spacer. Here they are in silver...

Thanks Roy I apreciate the help

I am attempting to polish the lip on a set of Advan Oni's. I started with 220 grit then worked my way up to 1000. After wetsanding with 1000 it was still leaving massive swirl marks. I then tried both 1500 and 2500 and even then there are still swirl marks after almost and hour of sanding. I'm not sure what to do at this point, I'm about ready to give up and just order some Sportmax's. Thank you, Rob

thanks will do, Im going to try to get to the junk yard so I can hack up a dizzy shaft to hook up to my drill and hopefully try to prime the pump a little better that way.

hmm, sounds reasonable. Im going to try one more thing and if it doesnt work.. then Im going to start by removing the timing cover and go from there. thanks rob

OTM, I feel pretty stupid but I forgot that I had bumped the car foward in gear so the distributor was actually in the correct place:twak: But I'm still not getting oil pressure. I filled both holes on the oil pump with oil and spun the shaft around a few times, everything apeared to be working perfectly. I put it back in with oil in it and with the new gasket. I also filled the oil filter and pumped oil into the sending unit hole. And still after all this I am not getting any oil pressure. I removed the sending unit and cranked the car and not a drop came out of the port? No oil is making its way into the head either. At this point I am completely bewildered as to why Im not getting any oil? Could it be something with the pump itself? It worked fine before I changed the head gasket. I dont see how the strainer for sump could be clogged or any of the passages if it was all fine before removing the head? thanks for the help

Thanks for the help. I had also noticed that my gasket was torn up pretty bad so I figured maybe it was sucking in air or something. But most likely by big problem was not having enough oil in the pump. My new gasket came in today so I took out the pump, primed it and put it back in. I didnt attempt to start it because I may have messed up my timeing. With the timing mark on the crank pulley at 0 and at TDC the rotor in the distributor isnt pointing at the plug for the #1 cylinder, but instead its rotated a little bit clockwise. I thought at TDC on the compression stroke all cars should have the rotor pointing to #1? thanks for all your help rob

wow, I really like how those look with the tree in the center. Im going to start asking around to see if anyone around here is talented enough to do something like that for me. My logo that says... Advan Racing Oni, is cut into the wheel so I wouldnt have to worry. And like you said the white does look better. I had some S-A3As with a white center that I really liked but they were 5 lug and TT tuning stopped making 5 lug adapters. I would probably do the centers white with the paint scheme and leave my outer lip polished. As for spacers I already talked to Techno Toy Tuning and once I finishing cleaning up these wheels and get my tires mounted Ill see exactly what size spacer is needed. thanks rob

LT1.. I had already ground down the socket and luckily mine only cost $4:) Wizard.. Maybe I shouldnt say Im looking for the best, but the most cost effective that wont rust. At over $5 a bolt I couldnt afford that since I need 120!!!

Thanks for the pictures those wheels look great, and they look almost Identical to my Oni's. The designs on the center look amazing, something like I would want to do eventually but I'm not that talented. Like yours the center doesnt actually come out. I'm just taking the bolts out because the nuts/washers aren't stainless and are severely rusted. Im not worried about painting too much. The centers are in pretty good shape and the outside lip is going to be polished. Although after I wire wheel the inside I may paint them with that same duplicolor wheel coating to prevent any problems

These are two peice wheels, they dont affect holding air but they just hold the center to the out part of the rim. I bought a Torx socket that works. Its not a perfect fit but its extremely close. I think its actually some other type of fastener they may not be used in this country? I plan on using the best hardware I can but I will definately need new washers and nuts. The main reason Im taking them out is because the nuts/washer are so coroded seeing as there not stainless. What kind of coating should be used on the new nuts I buy. I remember somone saying something about not using stainless washers on aluminum because when they are mixed they corode very quickly? I want something that will never rust again. The bolt itself is stainless so they could probably be used again. thanks for the help rob

I think that may be exactly it. After I finally get them all out what would be best to replace them with? I certainly dont want to use those again. Would Allen head bolts work well thanks

I'm trying to figure out what kind of bolt head this is on my Advan wheels, I'v never seen it before and need to find a socket to remove the rest of them. any help would be apreciated.

Veritech, I just realized you dont even have Advan's so disregaurd my last post.

I did not say anything bad or rude about the company but just that anyone looking to buy wheels from them should ask for more detailed pictures. So yes its mostly my fault, I should have asked more questions etc... I just wanted to give people a heads up. but heres a picture of one of the wheels. Keep in mind this is after using heavy duty wheel degreaser a special wheel cleaner brush and a pressure washer. Two of the wheels have some of that residue or corosion on the outside lip but not too bad, iv already gotten most of it off with a wire wheel. It will not come off with scotch brite or steel wool but I'v found that using my 8" wire wheel will slowly take it off. Heres a picture they showed me. They didnt give me any information except.. "The size are 16x8J+25 114.3 4 lug. It fit on 240SX. Condition show as picture. Imported from Japan" So like I stated it's my own fault for not asking enough questions, I had just heard a lot of positive reviews about them so I figured I'd be fine. Im not worried about making them look bad or anything like that but wanted to give people a heads up and would also apreciate some suggestions on cleaning them up. Veritech, did you ever take yours apart? I managed to get one of the fasteners out but I really need the specific tool to remove them and not sure what kind of fasteners Advan used. I also need to order new nuts and washers because they are rusted pretty bad. Do you have any pictures or suggestions or anything that would help me? My plan was to take them apart and wire wheel the entire inside then paint it with something like duplicolor wheel paint. Then repolish the lip. I didnt know what kind of clear I should use after I polish them though? Also how do they come apart, it almost looks like the centers wont even come out? thanks Rob

Just a heads up for anyone looking to buy some wheels... I recently bought some Advan Oni wheels from RBmotoring and to say the least I'm very disapointed. The pictures they showed me of the wheels showed them to be in near excellent condition. I recieved the wheels and there coroded, covered in brake dust and overall they look horrible, nothing I would ever put on my car. So if anyones looking to buy any wheels from them just make sure you get pictures of every inch of every wheel before buying. Rob

Tickwon, your cars lookin good as always. Man do I wish I had those coilovers!

has anybody been able to contact ross? I just ordered some new wheels and Im in need of some adaptors pretty badly. Does he have a phone number I could reach him at? I was just going to buy them on his site but Im a little worried about sending the money if he isnt responding to emails.

Id say I was cranking for about 30-40 seconds and nothing. I had thought about the head gasket blocking the oil passages but I would think I would still get some oil pressure? And Im just going off the factory oil pressure gauge but I know it works. And yes I was looking down the filler cap and there was no oil going into the head from what I could tell. The cam was completely dry. Iv been looking at the FSM to try and figure out how everything works but if my distributor cap is spinning my oil pump must be spinning right? So the problem might be somewhere else? thanks

I recently installed an HKS 2mm head gasket and now after putting everything back together my oil pump seems to no longer be pumping oil. My oil pressure gauge constantly reads 0. After cranking the motor for quite a while I looked and not a drop of oil was on the cam. I also had someone watching while I was cranking and no oil was coming through at all. When I removed the cap on the distributor the rotor spins while cranking the engine. Also when I changed the head gasket I ended up having to take off the timing cover if that could have affected anything. Luckily my fuel pump was not hooked up and Im not getting any spark for some reason so the motor couldnt start and yes the motor has plenty of oil in it. Im not sure where to start looking for problems so any help would be greatly apreciated. thanks rob

Very well said

I'm suprised I didnt recieve this email? but thanks for posting. And yes I said I would switch. I think it would great to have a racing station that doesnt have a 100 different shows on one type of lame racing(NASCAR)

I talked to 18Racing about the RB-r's and they sent me a picture. They RB-r's look completely identical to my old Konig rewinds so I decided not to get them. They are only available in Bronze(Polished lip) Flat black and Hyper black I believe and +10 offset like you said. She said sometime in August they will have silver with polished lip in +4 offset but who knows how long it will end up being. heres the picture she sent me of the RB-r's

Those seats look great, Iv been wanting some for a while