oinojo

if changing the CR is out of the question then i would strongly suggest finding a reputable tuner, colder plugs, and get the best gas possible.

now thats power right there, i had a turbo k20a3 in my 02' civic si. I sold the kit to fund my Z. Hondas are really fun to drive around even without any mods. I say if you can get the D16y8 (96+ EX) go for it, it should be well less than 700 and is one of the stronger D series motors. You can find used DIY turbo kits on http://www.honda-tech.com or build one yourself. They're really easy to work on and you shouldnt have a problem turboing it.

make sure you do your hot lash adjustmen. Also retorque your headbolts when the engines cold.

according to the Lengine software, with 240 rods youll be 11.8:1 odd, but with l28 rods youll be 8.89:1 well, your gasket probably went out because the engine hasnt been properly settled. Also did you retorque the head bolts after a good warm up? i always go over my torque specs after a couple good runs.

damn man, sorry to hear that. I hope you get things done before christmas.

alright im a newb when it comes to talking about electrical so bare with me. How exactly am i supposed to connect the resistor in between the Tach wire (pin24) and the Fidle (pin30). What i did was wrap the wire around the ends of the resistor. It sounds sketchy but i have no clue exactly how it should go and it would explain some or my MS wiring/connection probs.

well im using usb to serial and cant connect. iv also tried serial to MS through my desktop computer and no go.

i do have a straight through serial cable as stated in my first post. I have a strong feeling it has to do with my laptop using Windows XP. I dont have any other computer to run 98' or 2000'. For those who are running Xp, is there a driver that i need in order to connect MS to MT?

hey i just got my MS back today and wired everything back together. I still cant connect to my MS via computer. I think it is because of my Windows XP? i dunno but its really getting the best of me right now. I also think i have some kind of ignition problem cuz i cant get any spark. Tony if you could come down sometime this week to help me out it would be greatly appreciative. Ive been without my Z for over a month mainly because of megasquirt.

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not to mention the 6 speed honda tranny prolly has the best shifter/synchros i have ever driven with

i would guess the F20C from a s2000 might suite you well, or a fully built 4AGE 20V.

ouch dooder... i had something like that happen to me when i was in 8th grade. I tried taking out a skateboard bearing with a philips screwdriver. It ended up going through my hand.

i wont go either way on it since its a very debatable subject. Logically i think its best to go with a BOV even though many do not. If a turbo slowed down dramatically i would think it would hurt the internals of the turbo and cause some kind of reversion on the compressor side.

turbo apps should always have a BOV no matter how much boost it regulates. Unless you have enough bank to buy new turbos

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sounds like a good idea...

hey, so i ended up sending my unit back to DIYautoTune for some diagnostic testing or what not... itll be back sometime this week. Hey Tony if you could help me out it would be greatly appreciated.

i turboed a Subaru Justy using the same type of setup. The fuel being drawn threw does act as a cooling agent. I did not have the carb directly on the turbo, (had a pipe going to the turbo) and that pipe got VERY cold. The compressor housing on the turbo did not get hot at all...

i bought this a while back and was wondering if someone could confirm my wiring. I have a l28et with an 82 distributor. Red = 12V switched (+) coil Black = (-) side of coil Green = pin 30 Fidle wire w/ 1k 1/4 watt resistor orange = (+) dizzy black = (-) dizzy grey = NC White = NC from dizzy white = Pin 24 w/ 1k 1/4watt resistor

damn your car is slick... im so close to having my l28et run as well but my megasquirt is taking a ****.

where are you located? because i really need like hands on help if possible. My unit flashes (d17,d18) constantly while on. The firmware was uploaded by http://www.diyautotune.com using extra24s9 firmware. They told me to use msv2.25b531 but i dont believe that software is available anymore. I am using msv2.25b514, but they said that the extra.ini file they sent me should work. I redid my wiring last night and i am still having the same problems. When the car is on, i can hear my fuel pump relay clicking and the fuel pump runs when the TB is @ WOT. I think theyre might be some kind of short in my unit.