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kellysautosport

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Everything posted by kellysautosport

  1. I probably have too many of these stories. Most recent was cutting an opening in the trans tunnel on a 69 camaro for me to do a 4spd swap the angle grinder jump and went through my thumb from tip to nail and bled like hell for days. then a could days ago knocking cam bearing into a sbc i got a 1/16in piece of aluminum stuck in my finger that required me to use my razor knife to cut myself open to get it out. then there was the time i was knocking pistons out of a rusted to crap 351c and the lights went out and on that swing i missed the bar and hit my hand at full swinging force. then skip a few hundred wounds and go to the oldest one which is when i was 16 working on my turbo 626 i reached behind the engine to hook something up and sliced my arm open. that cut was about 7.5 or so inches long and about 1/8in deep. still have the scar but its gotten smaller. and then 2 years after that when i built my lt1 volvo my ignition coil was not secured and fell as the car was running so i grabbed it to put it back and sent who knows how many volts through my body and it left me with no use of my right arm(im right handed) for 3 weeks and i walked with a limp with a lazy eye and a slight slur... fun times. when i was 14 i had a butter knife go through my thumb trynna change a big tire, and 5weeks ago i had a 3/4 combo wrench cut the other thumb while unbolting a m22 from the bell housing.
  2. I try not to post in threads that might just revolve around what I do for a living. However IMHO, I would stray away from an alum block, although they are great on weight savings aluminum moves a lot more than iron does and the more movement in the block the less it will seal which in turn means more power loss. The alum vortec blocks cant take much of a bore unlike the iron 5.3 and 4.8 can be bored to ls1 specs. Ls7 i would stay away from due to the Siamese cylinders and thin walls (well for boost they are too thin) Ls3 blocks are nice for boost along with most any other ls block. just be cautious of vortec alum blocks.
  3. i just wanted to give you guys a thumbs up on your floors and frame rails. I am using either 18 or 20g if i use 20 im gonna bead roll it, and i have 2x3 that i am making my frame rails from as they are actually gonna run through the floor so that you only see an inch or less under the car. nice work guys. also Justin if you get floor made keep us posted please.
  4. i have thought about the swap myself, however IMHO if i could get a true SVO stang for $600 and it is not rusted to death or crashed up i would keep the car as a whole and build that car oppose to swapping the engine into a z31
  5. i just realized something. looking at how the engine mounts up. that actually appears to be a chevy style mount. ill bet that a chevy motor mount will fit right on there. the ford mount should have a hole going downward at an angle for the stud from the ford engine mount to fit into.
  6. chris i noticed that also. and i was wondering if the 1.25 and 2.25 are revised mounts.
  7. set of cheap aftermarket alum heads machined for a 400 (i just happen to have a set i need to get rid of brand new. casting but ill sell them assembled just PM me.) good intake, good cam( PM me about the cam too). and if possible bore it and put a set of forged pistons in it. but a good cam and a better set of heads will make you happy with the right intake can carb combo
  8. you should expect condensation. and it's not gonna disappear that quick. it takes a few oil changes to clear out water. however i can understand your reservations with it. if its a good enough deal get the heads checked out after you get it. or look for something that has not been sitting as long in the mountains as long. you can hit me on aim if you want to further talk about it.
  9. sounds like a good starting point. i work in an engine shop doing mostly high end and somewhat budget performance builds. forget what people might say. the 400 is not really a bad starting point. if you think its too good to pass up then go for it. you will have fun with it and most important you want to stay within your budget. every buck saved can go to some nice goodies as extras. plus you can build a nice 434ci stroker out of it.
  10. you should be able to use the energy suspension 4.6 swap mounts. i myself am building a 351 z. i might have to join you guys on this quest. i am fabricating everything myself though.
  11. i'm doing the same swap but building a 421windsor with 5spd. as far as the hydro clutch goes. quartermaster can hook you up with a setup for that
  12. so id like to stay within the rules but i was wondering if i would be allowed to discuss a dyno day meet at my shop for the mid atlantic people who live in the MD,DC,VA area or are willing to travel.. i would just like to stay within the rules so if its against the rules id like to know. also what section am i suppose to post in. i hate when threads are moved so i would like to make sure i do it right so that it stays stationary
  13. what tail lights are those and did you do a custom tail panel from sheet metal? i am planning to do circle tails in my s30 as we speak. just gettin finalize how i want it to look in the end, and looking for ideas on a good source for the circle lights.
  14. OBD2 GM gehicles are a good source. the main reason i say obd2 is because i dont remember what year GM started with the weather connectors. some stuff you might want to source new though.
  15. any updates on more detailed pix and info on your awsome rear end install?
  16. im sorry i live in washington, dc. and i passed tail pipe sniffer testing. i also passed in MD where they have physical inspections done by a licensed state inspector.
  17. i can only comment on my districts emissions rules, but in all of my LT1 cars i passed emissions without the airpump, and with the egr tubes sealed off at the exhaust.
  18. i am very interested in detailed pix and info on your rear end setup.
  19. This question would probabl go to v8 cars but whoever can chime in would be awsome. As the title states. Who no long has the IRS and still street drives the Z from time to time? I would like to know how it feels in corners and just city or highway driving. I ask because i have a 8.8 that i had laying around the shop and i have been thinking of including it in my project.. So I would like to hear from those with experience.. I am used to camaros, novas, and also s130s and z31 and z32. I have a feeling that it wont be too much different than my lt1 volvo was however it could be alot different because I would more than likely have to go with ladder bars or a 4link setup to make it work out which then my car would probably suck on the street.
  20. I would go with the nice s50/52/54 ect.. if u can afford it. us from the e30 work love those swaps. they respond very well to boost also. but as asked before. which mpower engine are u talkin about? and are u sure its actually an s5x engine? also u really need to watch out for exactly which motor it is and what year and date its from. dont wanna get somebody's scrap paper weight. its a swap thats well worth it if done right. give more info on the motor/trans combo and do some research on some of the bmw forums to learn more about the different engines. i believe there is a great thread about it on e30tech.
  21. I'm not in VA but i used to work in chantilly near the police academy. I always down for a meet and greet im not far outside of nova at the Wilson Bridge. I used MS2pcb3 on my turbo 325e but im not great at fixing it. There is also some guys in the manasas area who have drift events at old dominion some of them use ms and know more about it.
  22. This was a very interesting thread to read. It surprised me that nobody mentioned the Mercury Marine/Lotus engineered 32valve DOHC LT-5 that came in the C4 ZR1. I just mentioned it because i sure wish GM produced more of them because i sure would love to have one...
  23. This is my first S30, iv have a s130, z31t, z32tt, and z32na in the past. Got this car for pretty cheap with a sbc 350/th350 jus sittin in it. Now original plan was to do a sbc swap which i did before in my 79 volvo 244. however i am really thinkin about a ka24de swap. Both engines are easy and cheap to find, parts come a dime a dozen for both. First i wanted to drag the car and just drive it here and there on a few weekends. Now im not sure. I have access to a s130 that i found for super cheap thats in my area so I have options. I have been reading a load about the sbc swaps on here for a while. Im thinking that the ka24 is gonna be too light on the front end. Now i wouldn't have to reinforce so much if I use a ka-t. but i actually have a for chevy v8s laying around the shop along with the one thats sitting in the car. Well thats just the start of my story and i figured that i would mention it. either way ill have some pix up soon of my new project. I plan on starting on some welding soon and I think im gonna go with flat floors. I am short so the reduced headroom isnt gonna bother me at all, i actually prefer it.
  24. I looked at this thread like 5 times before i actually clicked that link. I am so glad that i clicked it. Now I can go and make me a new tool to add to my box of tools that I might only use once but refuse to part with. I remember that exact issue with my turbo BMW. Dang on IC pipes blowing off under boost.
  25. I picked up a rotary tool in Target for about $20 and i love it. I used to own a Dremel brand and i let someone borrow it and never got it back. Before my purchase I did compare the 2 and they were too alike. The Target one came with more accessories and it accepts Dreme brand accessories. Its adjustable 10speed (i think it was 10 speeds, might have been 6). It is in storage right now so i cant check for ya. I use it on SBC intake manifolds, and I used to use it on my BMW e30 intakes and turbo housings and a few custom guage panels that I have done. I just thought that I would chime in with my $.02 .. If i recall it also came with the flex shaft that i love so much and has not removed since the day i purchased the tool.
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