trwebb26

Make sure that the setting are correct for Celcius vs. Farenheit. The CLT seems to always run a little cooler than the IAT sensor when the car has been sitting (the block is colder than the air).

what do you consider reasonably priced? try www.shox.com

Yeah... what Matt said. I run an electric fan using one of these circuits and it works great!

So... based on what you've said so far... I would say to go with 8" coilovers with EMI (bolt in) camber plates from JohnC - probably 200 front / 225 rear spring rate springs. For shocks - it depends on how much section you want (2" is the norm for 240's I think). I have a 280 - so I don't know the recommended shocks for a sectioned strut (read the strut FAQ). If you are buying emi camber plates - the camber plate is the upper mount for the spring. You should be good to go. As Terry said - the strut insert diameter isn't an issue. The strut tubes are bigger for a 280, but I'm running 240Z front struts in the rear of my 280 (for example). I would say to buy the coilover kit from modern motorsports, but I have been trying to get ahold of Ross (the owner) for 2 weeks - and he hasn't returned my emails or PM's. He forgot to ship my upper spring perches with my order (http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120775) Kind of a shame - I have $430 burning a hole in my pocket to buy some of his billet Z31 companion flanges, but since he won't return my emails - I'm sure as hell not going to send him more of my money. Maybe ground control is a better choice for a coilover kit nowadays?

You really do have a lot more reading to do. Things you are going to have to research: - How much drop do you want? - Are you going to section your struts? - What wheel/tire combo do you want to run? - Do you have fender flares? - Are you planning on running camber plates of any variety? - What is the car used for (street, drags, auto-x, daily driver)? - Is money an issue? I only ask this one because you say you have no time to search. This means that you probably don't have the time to properly research and put together a kit of parts. All of these things are only STARTING points to determine what kind of hardware you need. Things like spring rate, spring length, strut sectioning, 240 perches / camber plates, and other such things are REQUIRED information to start purchasing parts for a project like this. I really don't mind questions like this because we all started somewhere - and the cars are 25+ years old. Just about everything has been done to them by now, but regardless - be prepared to be flamed by the admins for not searching more.

I have a 280. I'm sectioning my struts and putting in the modern motorsports disk conversion - complete with new stainless brake lines. For the front strut tubes - do I cut off the brake line bracket, too? I've seen picture of it done both ways. Thanks!

Moby's map in the writup is very rich. Anybody buying a megasquirt should consider a wideband a MUST buy IMO.

Ross got back with me after about a week... but he just told me to look for them again. I emailed him back and it has been a week and a few days with no response. Can anybody help me with 2 perches? I'm using camber plates in the front so I only need 2 of them. Surely somebody has 2 laying around - unused from a camber plate install and they can help me out. I'm getting to the point where I'm really going to need them soon.

Sounds like your oil shaft is off. It is VERY easy to get it off a tooth. Make sure the #1 cylinder is at TDC compression and install the oil shaft. It should like the picture in your factory service manual for a dizzy shaft at #1 TDC. It works a lot better if you have somebody up top telling you if it looks right. Put the dizzy on (don't screw it down) and then make sure the rotor lines right up with the #1 plug on the cap. If it does - you are in business - screw everything down and make with the rest of the megasquirt setup installation (put motor back 60 degrees, rotate dizzy, etc). Post up if you have more questions.

I'd hate to break it to you, but you may just be getting started. I had these symptoms and it took me 6 months of troubleshooting (and $$$) to figure it out. If the timing is off... let's start with the basics. Please give us EXACT specifics on your timing setup (megasquirt model, who you bought it from, input wiring version, dizzy or edis, trigger and offset numbers, how you set it up, pullup resistor value, output from megasquirt, ignition type - vb, msd, etc, coil, and SPARK PLUG WIRE BRAND. Is the cap and rotor new? Tell us EVERYTHING about the setup. Have you got it to idle, yet? Do all the guages in megatune read realistic values? Step 2 is to tell us what the timing reads when you are cranking it over. Hold a timing light to the crank pulley and make sure it reads what is supposed to the whole time. Tell us these things and we can start to talk.

I just wonder how they do the water passages in the block???

it is more than adequate

I agree - it doesn't look like a lot of added functionality, BUT! I'm thinking it MAY be worth it IF the tuning software is a little more friendly. Megatune pretty much sucks ass compared to the other tuning softwares I've seen.

I ordered some modern motorsports coilovers - but Ross didn't send me the upper perches. I've emailed him twice since last Sunday with no response. Does anybody have some upper perches that they aren't using that I could buy? Maybe from somebody that used camber plates instead of the stock mounts?

Congrats on the first Z i've seen to pull off sidepipes. Looks like a killer!

I called ground control today. They told me to leave the field blank and enter the shock part number in the comments section when I ordered. I did just that - and recieved an email a few hours later from one of their sales representatives thanking me for not trying to over-think it - and just let him do his job. He said "I know exactly what to include on your order". I recommend this route when dealing with ground control.

To check to see if it is "ok" - turn on the throttle position guage in megatune and make sure that it reads 0% without your foot off of the peddle. AS SOON as you start to put your foot down - the guage should start to increase. With your foot to the floor - the guage should read 100%. If it does all of this - you should be good.

Thanks for the quick reply J... Do you know which version of the 14mm shaft I should pick? There are 3 different kinds: 14mm short 14mm long 14mm (Bilstein) ?

I want to order a set of ground control camber plates for the front of my 280Z to go along with my coilover/sectioned strut setup. I plan on running illuminas. On the ground control website - it asks for the "strut diameter in mm": http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=151/CA=97 What is this dimension for the illuminas? Why are they asking this question? Thanks!

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/comprod/index.html

I'm ordering new spindle pins/lock pin/washers/bolts/etc for my rear suspension tear down on my 280z. I will be installing the energy suspension outer control arm bushings. While jotting down the parts on the black dragon auto site - I saw part number "54" labeled as "Rubber Bushing" on page 89. Is this part required if using the energy suspension bushings? I was about to order them, but decided to ask the question. If I don't need them it'll save me $8. Here is a link to page 89 of the catalog showing a picture of what I'm talking about. http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/z/0089.asp Thanks for the help.

Stuff I'm doing on this overhaul: - MM coilovers all the way around on sectioned struts. - new strut tops or camber plates (i'm on the fence, still) - Adjustable shocks (unknown length so far... depends on my camber plate choice). - rear disk conversion - front 4x4 disk upgrade - Stainless brake lines - ST swaybars front and rear - new balljoints, tie rods, steering rack boots, front & rear wheel bearings/seals, spindle pins, and hardware. - Rebuilt diff w/ 3.9 gears, seals, and new powerbrute from the recent group buy - Ron Tyler Front Diff Mount - New rear diff mount - full energy suspension bushing kit install - "ball and socket" compression rod upgrade - ditching the 14" "steelies" and putting on Rota Grid 16x8's w/ 245/45 Bridgestone RE70 rubber all the way around - a general cleanup under the car - de-rust, clean, & paint everything I can. - Z31 or 280zxt CV's in the rear - After reading all of the recent posts about the Z32 trans - I'm pondering installing one of those, too. (it may seem like a big list, but I just completed re-finishing the popcorn ceilings in my house flat - and removed wallpaper/repainted almost all of the interior walls... took all winter. The wife owes me some time to work on the Z). justinolson: I'm not 100% sure on camber plates yet. I've read all bout how they are so loud. I'll mainly be using the car for street driving - so I may just go with new 240 tops... or maybe just camber plates in the front. Because the front strut tops are different sizes than the rears in a stock 280 - and the strut travel from different struts (VW, miata, etc) aren't well documented - I'm just a tad worried about having a car where the ass end is dragging too much when I get it all assembled and back on the ground - or the problem that blueovalz has referred to about not having the spring perch in the correct place dsommer: The underside of your car looks awesome! There are varying opinions about the best method to remove undercoating - what method did you use? Your steering rack really caught my eye... what'd you do to clean it up? I've heard about POR... is the chassis coat you refer to applied with a brush or spray can? davyz: Sorry if I pissed you off, but your comment "Just takes a search and voila" really struck me tonight. I see it all too often on this forum.

The shop around here told me that they don't have a torque plate for a straight six... they mostly deal with v8s. I guess I should look for a different shop to do the work? Does anybody near central illinois know of a decent engine builder that would tackle an F54?

You know... I've been on this site for around a year - and I've read a lot of posts. A whole lot of you (and you know who you are) are FAR too quick to pull out the "do a search" card. I read the FAQ and NOWHERE on the post does it discuss measuring un-modified ride heights or un-modified strut travel or any of the MANY other factors which may be important starting points for a modification like this. mom'sz and blueovalz have done a great job of starting the questions. Strut selection, strut top/camber plate choice, amount of section, differences between 240 and 280 strut tubes, clearances and many other subjects are all important factors when doing this modification and I want to make sure I don't miss something before I start. So without one of the admins or regular posters on this site trying to end the conversation by being an ass by asking me to search - does anybody else have any REAL advice for me before I start the work on my suspension?

I'm putting in coilovers and sectioning the struts... Should I measure anything before I start?