trwebb26

Grats, boss... See you Monday.

A little progress... Pics of the rear swaybar mount. I have the 7/8" suspension techniques rear swaybar so I bought a generic 7/8" energy suspension bushing kit that comes with U-shaped brackets and the bushings ($20 at any local auto parts store). I modified the hell outta the brackets and added some coupling nuts. Both sides of the car are completely different. I bet I bolted up the endlinks to the swaybar 50 times while I fit and re-fit these pieces to make sure everything was square, level, had clearance, weld gaps were good, and looked strong. As I said in a previous post - spent a LONG time making these brackets. Pay no attention to the crappy welding on the insides of the brackets... I couldn't get the mig in there to get decent angles, but I figure it couldn't hurt to try. Welded to the car with the swaybar bolted up. An awesome side benefit that these tie the new main frame rails to the rear subframe a lot more. It looks the same on the other side of the car: I also redid my battery cables tonight. I switched from top-post mount battery style to side mount because of the clearance issues to the inspection cover and hood (I've had 'sparking' issues). Everything is 4 guage - 2 negative (one to the block then down to the frame and the other to a negative distribution block) and 3 positive (1 to alternator, 1 to starter, and 1 to fused power distribution). Despite what everybody on here says about the declining quality of optima batteries - I went with one of their smaller red-tops (720 CCA). I still need to figure out how I want to secure it to the car. Here is my ghetto tubing pressure tester. I got a tape measure and found some PVC hose ends at the hardware store that match the OD of the tubing I'm using. One side is solid and the other is tapped for a 1/4" NPT for an air fitting to screw into. Set the air compressor at 15psi and plug'er in. I've got a few holes in my tubing that I'll be welding up soon - especially around the BOV flange (crappy ass cast bracket I bought off of ebay didn't weld up very good at ALL - lots of porosity/sand). This weekend: - Pressure test / repair / clean my air tubes - Run some fluid through my fuel/oil lines to clean them out - Finish my oil send line for the turbo (I'm trying to decide if I want to put a restrictor in, still) - A couple of finishing things on my air intake - Bolt everything up tight - Fire it up! Hope everybody is enjoying my build. Thanks for the feedback.

I don't see how... the restrictor is changing the amount of flow - therefore the delta P across the restrictor?

Posted a question about oil pressure for my turbo. I hope to get some feedback. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=1080928#post1080928

I've already searched and read all of the posts on this forum and many other concerning this topic so hear me out. The holset service manuals for the turbo's that fit well with our L6's (HX35, HY35, HX40, HC351, etc) all say that the minimum required oil pressure at idle is 10psi with a 72psi max. http://www.myholsetturbo.com/modelinfo.html I normally run right around 8 psi at idle and never get higher than 70psi when driving (autometer guage and turbo oil pump). I read that most people put a restrictor in the oil send line. This would just reduce the pressure of the oil at the turbo. Am I missing something? It doesn't seem like a good idea to run a restrictor for the holset, oil cooled turbos on an L6???

Been a few weeks since my last update... Supporting my wife through her last month of pregnancy has been more work that I'd planned. That and I had to put the boat away - and I've been working pretty late hours the last 2 weeks (Gratz on the new baby Heavy85!). Things I've done recently: - Wiring is done. - Finished all of the fuel stuff - Spent a CRAZY amount of time fabbing up the rear swaybar mount. (pics on this later this week). Stuff left to do before I fire it up: - Pressure test all of my tubing (I made my 'test apparatus' today... ghetto! Pics later this week) - Clean the insides of all of my air tubing - Clean oil and fuel lines - Redo battery cables - Finish my oil send line (I ordered some parts to finish it today - should here middle of next week) - Get familiar with megasquirt again (it's been a while). - Do a cold valve adjustment. I'm guessing my battery is dead - so I'll likely have to go get a new one. Other than that - I can't think of a reason I won't be trying to start it next week.

Looks like this one to me: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AEI-11103/ Check the inlet size (-8) and outlet size (-6)... that is pretty unique for a pump like this.

Does your wideband reset every time your megasquirt does? Did you do the free air calibration? Where is the sensor in relationship to your turbo, wastegate, downpipe, tailpipe, etc? Is the sensor pointed up like it is supposed to be? Did you properly set up the guage using the Innovative software to be a 0-5V signal (mine came as something different 'from the factory')- and then verify that it is set up properly in the megasquirt setup file?

I was sure this one was going to get tool shed'd about 10min after I wrote it... I did think it coincidental that I lost 2... And yes having been married for 6+ years I haven't seen my anatomical nuts in many years.

One thing I was thinking about... make sure your ebrake cables aren't rubbing on a shaft somewhere - including those up above the main driveshaft.

Please do yourself a favor and buy magnecor wires... I had SO many problems with resets until BRAAP got me straightened out by getting some new wires. Magnecor wires are a 100% must for a Z megasquirt install IMO.

All very good guesses... You know how it is getting dark sooner and sooner... Well I was under the car with a Craftsman droplight. It has a magnet on the back of it. I picked up the light and looked all over MULTIPLE times for the nuts. Took 2 hours before I actually tried to use the magnet and stick the light to something and found my nuts!

I'll give a hint... Yes - they were directly under my nose... But I did look in all of the obvious places.

TPS bolt come loose? It looks a little crooked.

Speeding.

Inside the socket is a good guess... but not correct - I actually looked in all of my sockets trying to find them. I'll be giving the answer in a few hours.

Nobody has it yet... c'mon - this has to have happened to somebody before me. Where did you lose your nuts?

Sounds like you've got some pretty wicked compressor surge... What BOV are you running?

I was working around my diff - fabbing up my last exhaust hanger... I can assure you that the size of the nut or where it came from doesn't matter.... or that I lost 2 of them. The fact that I lost 2 nuts for such a long time drove me so crazy that I had to write this post about it to hopefully prevent a few of you the kind of frustration I faced today looking for them.

Nobody has it so far...

nobody has it so far...

Only problem with what you've said is that it would stick up an inch... When the car is level - the front of the cell will stick up more than the back because the rear subframe is angled. Make sure that thing is level or the sump will do you no good. Left/right - I centered mine - for dual exhaust that will be your best bet. Fore-aft - Make 100% sure that your 90 degree fuel cell fittings coming off of the sump have clearance to the rear valance - including when you go to thread them onto the outlets of the cell. Also make sure that it isn't too close to the lower rear control arm mount. Obviously the more forward you can get it the better (CG) Up/down - IMO the most important measurement. Design considerations include: - You want to make sure you have adequate ground clearance - For me - the exhaust actually went under the cell some... make sure it is high enough to clear your exhaust including any heat shield you may want to put in place. - Obvioiusly you have to have the first two things and try to keep it as low as possible to minimize the height of the CG and keep it out of the trunk area as much as possible. Almost all racing rules require that the fuel cell and all of the fuel lines be outside the driver compartment - the more it sticks up the more you'll have to work to cover it up in the trunk.

Working on the Z under the car and I lost 2 nuts - took me 2 hours before I finally found where they were... Everybody gets 2 guesses where I found them.

what plug wires do you have? (no, I'm not crazy). http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120033 may help...

Anybody tried the new Tunerstudio, yet? Bought to get my car going again... seems like tunerstudio is too new to use it to set up a car for the first time on a new setup - opinions?