trwebb26

Anybody have trouble with their sending unit? I think mine has crapped out. I'm going to try and clean it out and hope it works before I get a new one. To get a new sender it is $100! http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-2246/ I couldn't believe it would bee $100 - so I checked what a brand new guage would cost with brand new sending unit - $200: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-6153/ Damnit...

I got it fired... the combination of using injector resistors / screwing around with the cranking settings and the warmup enrichments got it done. Thanks.

Thanks rossman. Here's the muffler: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MPE-12619/ Going to work on some of the bugs today... It has been raining all week here pretty much non-stop... hopefully it will quit so I can get it on the road for some tuning (assuming I can get the leaks fixed).

I hope the admins will have mercy on me - kind of a double post, but I don't seem to get much traffic on the fabrication/welding forum. If this is in some way a violation of the website rules (which I don't believe it to be) just delete this post and scold me via email. youtube: my build: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=1086029#post1086029

Time for some oil - I like to spread the new oil love on the head (that sounds dirty, huh?) Had a bunch of megasquirt trouble the last few days. Lots of dumbass mistakes by yours truely. Stuff like putting the plug wires on wrong and setting the overboost protection at 70 kPa. *sigh*. I said in the last post I ordered some injector dropping resistors so I don't have to run pulse width modulation (PWM) - here they are and the aluminum plate I attached them to: I left it like this in case I ever swith ECU's to individual injector injection (wtf is that called again?) - I can still use my mounting plate. So I screwed around with all sorts of settings for LOTS of times cranking the engine. I was sure I was going to destroy my starter... Then all of the sudden it lit off and started running like a champ on some settings I had tried 5 or 6 times prior. Maybe I had to try enough times to let it know I was serious and wasn't going to go away until it gave in? Either way - real exciting having it fire. The BOV sounds incredible - let me know what you think! My issues now include tuning the VE table, the acceleration enrichments, the warmup table, the oil pressure sending unit for my autometer guage doesn't work, I have an oil leak somewhere around my turbo drain (I'm praying that I don't have to buy a new turbo center), and my radiator leaks somewhere (wtf is that? - it didn't leak before I started all of this? - hopefully it is something simple like a bad hose). There will be a better video whenever I get it tuned up better. The video is literally the 2nd time I had it started and idleing. Thanks - looking forward to feedback.

Just finished adding a turbo and replacing the injectors with 440cc supra ones. I'm getting good spark when I'm supposed to be (says the timing light) and I've pulled plugs and they are wet with fuel, but I can't get it to light off... not even a sputter. My first instinct is to replace the plugs, but I wanted you guys to check out my MSQ, please. The car was running on megasquirt before I did the swap. Stock 78' N/A block and head Holset HE351 turbo MSD2 ignition running L28ET dizzy. I see RPMs in Megatune when I crank. All of the sensors are reading correctly and I know I'm getting spark at the plug wires Injectors are 440cc supra ones (brand new). megasquirt200910272131.zip

Tried to start it tonight... Started out I didn't have any spark - turned out the fuse to my MSD box had blown. Tried to start it again - got some spits and sputters - checked the ignition wires and I had 3 of them mixed up (I know... I know...). Fixed those and I wasn't getting any action. Either the engine is flooded or the battery voltage dropped too low (it was getting down to 10.2 volts during cranking... really low). I'm going to charge up the battery, look over the ignition another time and give it another go tomorrow. The really positive news is that everything else on megasquirt worked just like it is supposed to (RPMs, Coolant and air temps, TPS, AFR, I know that I was getting SOME spark and fuel). I didn't touch my dizzy during the work over the last year so I'm pretty sure the spark advance number is still good. It'll be the first thing I check if everything else looks like it supposed to. I'd post my MSQ, but I don't have a file host. What kind of file host do you guys use that is... well... free.

- Fuel lines are in, cleaned, and pressure tested - leaks fixed. I was suprised that I didn't have any leaks at the injector o-ring connections. - All vaccum lines in (including the one I had to weld in before the throttle body for the wastegate line). As an FYI - the banjo bolts that come with the new Tial MVS wastegate are a M10x1.0 thread. - Spent several hours last night and this morning re-learning the ins and outs of megasquirt. I got hung up for quite some time while Windows Vista thought it was smarter than me and wouldn't let me edit the .ini files. - Got the USB / serial adapter configured and working properly for my laptop. - Flashed the latest revision of MS&SE on my v3.0 board. - Spent quite a bit of time reading about flatblack's resetting problems, PWM, dropping resistors, injector impedance, injector noise, plus/minus of low/high impedance, blah blah blah. Decided to do what the the OEM's think is good enough - add the resistors so my low impedance (440 supra injectors at 2.9 ohms each) can run without PWM. I ordered 6 resistors on digikey (http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=825F7R5E-ND). I liked these in-particular because they have their own built in aluminum heatsink. I'm hoping to get it fired before the resistors get here (running PWM). I may get it fired tonight if I can build a config file I'm happy with. I'm going to start from scratch on the file because I upgraded firmware and I'm going to be adding some positive pressure portions to all of the maps anyways... Ya - that means boost, baby!

Just wondering what everybody was running for the 440cc supra injectors in megasquirt. No resistor pack w/ PWM or resistor pack? opening time? PWM current limit? PWM time threshold?

Well... If the most pressure I can make on the passenger side of the car where the oil pressure sending unit is at idle is 10psi... then it doesn't matter at all how big the line is. I could run 1" diameter line to the inlet of the turbo... all the line diamter does is make 100% sure that I get the exact same pressure on the right side of the engine as I do on the left side of the engine at the inlet of the turbo (zero pressure drop across the line). Knowing that the holset requires 10psi MINIMUM... I need the biggest diameter oil line possible to ensure that I'm getting all of that pressure at the inlet of the turbo. Now... If I'm making 30psi oil pressure at idle - I may consider reducing the line size or adding a restrictor. Both of them do the same thing - increases the difference in pressure between the oil pressure sending unit and the inlet of the turbo. Make sense?

Anybod spot the S30 in a commerical on TV nowadays? It is a commercial for Mobil 1. 10 points to the first person who can name the color of the Z.

Time for an update.... lots of pics this time. My air filter mounting: Need a little taken off one side: In the wheel well: Gasket matching the turbo: After gasket matching and having the faces cleaned up on the belt sander: Ready for cleaning and final assembly. Fluids on hand include some mineral spirits to clean the parts, oil, an oil filter, antifreeze, and gas: Doesn't look like much - LOTS of work on there: Lots of work done on the battery hold down the last week: After blasting all of my parts with 120psi air - I did my best to clean them out with some mineral spirits. The tub shows how much crap would've gone through my engine had I not taken the time to do this step: Turbo setup ready to go in the car: My custom snap ring pliars I made: Turbo in: Intake manifold on: Since the baby still hasn't decided to enter the world and I'm laid off next week the plan is: - Clean / assemble fuel parts - Finish assembly stuff - Fire it up. If everything goes to plan there will be a startup video later this week. Thanks for watching.

The main purpose is to get a little more understanding of what a "normal" oil pressure is for the L6. I started this thread a while back with very little response. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=155002 By collecting a little more information about oil pressures I'll be reconfirming my decision not to run a restrictor for the oil send of my Holset.

So - for those who have an oil pressure guage... Fill in as much as you know: Turbo or N/A oil pump: Oil weight used: Synthetic or Natural: Oil Pressure at Idle when cold: Oil Pressure at Idle when hot: Highest oil pressure seen when cold (max RPM): Highest oil pressure seen when hot (max RPM): Thanks.

Angle grinder fitted with a knotted wire wheel (the radial kind - not the cup mount) - it'll take off 95+% of the old paint/rust/undercoating/gunk in your engine bay.

Jeez... glad you didn't get hurt.

You've forgotten the most important of all... angle grinder (grinding discs, grinding wheels, and flap wheels). I also consider a knotted wire wheel (the radial style - not the cup style) a 100% necessity when doing work on the metal of my Z. In addition to the tools you've mentioned I use: Saber saw A few different squares Flexible metal tape (for checking contouring and measuring on contours) Cardboard, protractor, something to make circles, scissors black and silver sharpies A few rolls of blue tape A 6" delta belt sander (by FAR my favorite tool in my shop for doing metal work) Flat and round files A good center punch A full set of drill bits all the way to 1/2" A full set of hole saws A dremel with lots of attachments (they do things the bigger tools can't) A good cordless drill and a wired/heavy duty drill A very nice straight edge A bubble angle finding guage An angle setting tool If I had the money I'd get: - Drill Press - Band Saw - Plasma Cutter - Metal Brake capable of 16 gage - Bead roller - Shrinker/stretcher - English Wheel - Tig welder - A non-lead based leading kit - Shot bag with different hammers I'm sure I'm missing stuff... this is all I could think of..

I've never seen a better commercial for spanking your kids than some of these videos...

These are the wires I got - KV85 10mm wires: https://www.directtuning.com/store/pc-46825-97-magnecor-10mm-wire-set-280zx-79-83240z260z280z-70-78.aspx I'm not sure if this is where I got them from - but I'm pretty sure it is... Do some shopping for the cheapest price.

Drag car, autocross, weekend cruiser?

Looks great... Your picture has offically convinced me to shave the rear of my 280z when I go to do bodywork.

Definately single shear in your diagram and the weak link in this won't be the bolt... it'll be the aluminum channel you are bolting to. I don't know what your rod ends are supporting, but if it is a suspension part... you need to start over.

Like I said before... I couldn't get rid of my resets until BRAAP wised me up and I got some Magnecor wires.

http://www.vodcars.com/fastlanedaily/episode/fld_20091016