trwebb26

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html

fusible link upgrade to a fuse block is one of the best upgrades to the Z for the money IMO. Well placed poly bushings can help a lot too for next to no money.

Save your money for a bigger upgrade? Seriously - just need to figure out what is weak. engine bay appearance, suspension, motor, interior, brakes, stereo, etc, etc, etc. I could name a bunch of stuff in each category that don't cost that much.

ZOMG. Reminds me of PVC rollbars and intercooler plumbing. I like TC527's signature from that post so much - I made it my own : )

You can't play $1/$2 and expect not to have BIG swings. First timers with no table experience get lucky drawing out. You'll have a much more steady bankroll if you step up to higher stakes ($3/$6 or $4/$8 seems to be a sweet spot for me). The players are more skilled but less likely to make retarded calls on you. Did you ever switch tables? If I ever lose what seems to be too much in a row I'll go grab a bite to eat and change tables. Fresh players and scenery do wonders for my metal state - which for people that know how to play know - that is all that the game is about.

I need a new game to play. I've done the WoW thing... Need something new - can anybody reccomend me something to try out? PC games only please.

Gotta think - it is just a switch... that is it. Nothing fancy. connection 1) a ground reference connection 2) voltage input connection 3) when you reach the "trip point" for the switch (7psi for mine) - the switch will activate and whatever voltage input you put to connection #2 will go to connection #3 So as long as connection 2 is something that is on when the key is on and you expect the fuel pump to be running under "normal" circumstances - connection 3 should run to a relay to power your fuel pump. Make sense?

Throwout bearing?

I used to play a LOT... Big into arena. Horde - Cho'gal - Got an 80 frost mage (with full set of frostfire gear), 80 resto shammy (badass pvp and pve sets), and 80 disc priest (just a gold farming toon I used to play a lot before the expansion). I quit a few months as the last arena season ended. Made gladiator on 2 of my toons. Decided I was spending 2 much time playing and not working on the Z. Got my first baby coming in a few months too, so figured I better ween myself off. Anybody wanna buy my toons? They all have epic cold weather flyers and about 4K gold between all the toons.

:hail::hail::hail::hail::hail::hail::hail::hail::hail:

Turns out I got a bad gallon of paint. I took it back the store and they guy at the paint counter gave me a new gallon to try. Made all the difference.

Your right... you suck at searching. Try again.

I tried to paint my bathroom an orange/grey rusty color tonight over some white primer... it is semi-gloss paint. It didn't cover at all!!!! Like I was just smearing it around when I tried to put on the 2nd coat. And it kept trying to make runs on me. I ended up just painting a coat and i'm going to let it dry tonight and put on a second/third coat tomorrow and cross my fingers. Word to the wise - use tinted primer any time you paint a color with a red base. BAH! Seems like I'll never get back to my Z project at this pace.

Take Ryan to the track with you one weekend.

Boost the LS! Turbo powa 4eva! Seriously tho... If you don't want to enter a competetive door-to-door racing series - You've got the foundation to do just about anything you want without too much trouble and money. If you aren't having fun at the autocross events... I personally think that some 500 lb springs and try out drifting would be a complete blast. A Z would be a really neat car to see do it, too. You'd have to check into the rulebooks for drag racing - but you aren't far from having a sweet drag car. It is clear knowing you that you are just like Ryan C. You need a challenge and you want to kick everybody's ass. Now that you are blowing the doors off of the "casual" racers at the weekend auto-X events... gotta get either anti up and go compete at that kind of racing or switch it up and do somethings else. I feel your pain tho - central illinois sucks terrible for opportunities to race.

Bump... I checked the turbo bible (Maximum Boost) and it didn't say anything about the proximity of the wastegate to the input source. I'm ready to take opinions on this routing rather than experience... Seems like one exhaust pulse would fill up the amount of volume I'm adding to the wastegate. I have a hard time believing that this tad bit of extra length would be noticable at all. Anybody?

Got the reply from Holley tech support. The filters are rated for fuel injection pressures (75+psi) and they flow adequate amounts of fuel... The tech support guy said the filters were designed for my type of application. I'm going to stick with them and monitor for fuel trouble. I'll never discount the experience of an experienced member like stony. Based on rossman's feedback - I started a poll about looping the coolant on the L6 sub-forum and it is clear that this is not a widely understood cooling practice. Rossman, Tony D, and some of the other seasoned L6 guys have convinced me to take out the loop. Good news for me - I hate extra crap in the engine compartment and it will give me a place to bolt the coils for a future EDIS upgrade to megasquirt (trying to get rid of some of the stuff on the left side of the engine compartment... MSD 6a box, coil, dizzy, wires, etc). I was up until 1:30 AM putting the 2nd coat of primer on the walls and ceilings of the baby room and the bathroom. Turned out good, but because of problems with the walls in the bathroom it is going to take longer than I had hoped. I'm doing the finish spacking on the ceilings and walls today and painting the ceilings tomorrow morning. It should be pretty much smooth sailing from there, but I obviously am not working on the Z this weekend. I did get more parts - the new tighter radius 4" bend is just what the doctor ordered for my downpipe. More to come when I finish up the house.

You should spend some more time cleaning the metal on both of the parts - otherwise not bad progress.

I'm all for a good deal... but I'd never buy harbor freight jackstands. I've had way too many harbor freight tools come apart on me.

I haven't touched the car... I'm in home repair jail.

From the looks of the poll - it is just as I suspected... lots of confusion about this topic. I'm nearly convinced to take out the loop... Is anybody else?

Wuzzup boss - having a good week off? What seized? Did the threads strip on the lug nut or the stud? Front or rear wheel? Is the stud bent? Are any of your other studs bent? Get a thread gage and make sure none of your other studs have stretched. Check the face of your hub and wheel to make sure they are flat and true. Does it appear as if your wheel and hub are slipping and "fretting"? With the retarded torque you are making with the LS1 and racing slick friction at the ground - or the side forces you are putting on the front wheels when you turn... you may be at the limit of the 4-stud wheel design. Do the other hardcore autox-ers on this site run 4-lug wheels and have they had problems? With the new studs - you might consdier over-torquing the lug nuts giving you some added capacity in your bolted joint. I've heard that McGard lugs or Gorilla lugs are good quality.

IMO - I would try the 3.5" one. Either way - shame on Holset for not making the outlet a standard size. This problem is posted all over the internet. I'm halfway tempted to engineer up the matching flange size and sell the flange and v-band clamps as a set on ebay. I sure would've bought one a few months ago. For my HE351 - I ground off the v-band that is there and had my old man weld a "normal" size 4" v-band flange to it. The inside diameters of both parts match perfectly. Scroll down a bit for some pictures: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=149542

For as much money as people spend on their L6 engines - I think there really should be a best practice for when you take the heater out of the circuit. I want to get to the bottom of it. I'm thinking about running a test of some sort on my engine using thermocouples and some kind of valve setup to measure flow rate. One datapoint will be how everybody have done it on their cars. So time for a poll - please participate and post any kind of experiences you have good or bad looping or plugging. Please also include what version of head you run. Here is a pic of my engine looped: Here is a post about the subject. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107364 So do you loop or plug?

You after pictures of the car stance - or pictures of the actual suspension pieces?