trwebb26

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/video/moto_0002/sniffer_content.html

Thanks... I looked all over the net and on the summit site and couldn't find it. Jegs was a good idea. The directions are very misleading... "The center stud/nut on the sending unit is to be connected to the hot wire for the gauge" This is completely misleading... The guage requires a 12volt source and you aren't going to get it from this sending unit - you'll only get a resistance value relative to the chassis ground. Just wanted to try and clear that up for anybody that read it, because this is the first time this question has been answered on this forum (that I could find using the search tool). Either way - thanks for the reply.

I'm probably too late to tell you... but you should be using the yellow wire... The yellow wire with the stripe is the low fuel level warning signal (you won't use it anymore).

One more question... Does anybody know how to wire the sending unit on the kind of fuel cell I've got? It looks like there are 3 places to put wires: 1) A post in the middle... I'm thinking this is the signal wire 2) A spade terminal... I'm guessing that is the ground reference 3) Another screw of some kind... The directions suck ass and I can't find anything online that shows the correct way to wire it up...

Been a while since my last update. I've been busy on the car. Here is some progress.... Front bumper/airdam on: Seats and dash in... still a lot of grinding dust all over the place: My office: And without the flash (not everything is turned on in this pic): My new wallpaper for my computers: Getting closer... some stuff left to button up on the wiring / plumbing - parts will be here this week to finish: Intake routing: I know you are all jealous of my mocked up air filter - the real thing will be here this week: I was pretty nervous about tire clearance... Looks like everything will clear accept when the car is 100% lock steering and at full compression on this strut... and it may even clear that, but I can't tell with the car on jackstands. I'm crossing my fingers I won't have to make clearance. I'm missing a part... does anybody have the plastic bushing that goes on the end of the ebrake assembly that they'll give/sell to me? I burned mine up when I was welding on my tunnel: Thanks for watching and I appreciate the feedback.

I've never used POR-15, but I'm pleased with zero-rust. Surely somebody in the hybridz community has used both? I did my frame rails on jackstands. Welding upside down was really tough at first - but if you mess with the voltage setting on your welder (I used less voltage) - it worked much better without dripping spatter all over me.

It only happens at idle? If that is true - I'd be outruling fuel. If you rev the engine and it goes away you are commanding more fuel than before and you've already said your AFRs are good. If there really was an obstruction the misses would either get worse at higher RPM - or you'd be getting lean AFRs. Are you running Megasquirt? With the problems I've had with plug wires and EMI - I wouldn't be outruling Megasquirt being the culprit.

My best/worst experience was when I was in college...I had a suzuki katana 750 with 600 badges (they were the same size) - that was all stock. I put 600 badges on it for some fun around campus. Anyway - one time I'm all by myself at a stoplight in the MIDDLE of the University of Illinois campus and a very souped up mustang (all motor) pulls up and wants to race to the next light. I tell him that he's retarded and he says I'm scared. I'm in front of him before we pass the traffic signals like 30 feet away and he pulls up and wants to go again... *sigh*... I did it 3 times in a row. I wish his dumb, broke ass was willing to put some money down.

Autopower SCCA bar (with the diagonal brace). The fit was just ok as the plates that bolt the bar to the wheel tubs weren't exactly in the right place. I made the bar level to the ground / centered in the car and just drilled the holes wherever they ended up in the wheel arches (not the same on both sides). All in all - not bad for $400 and it will serve the purpose of adding some safety to my car. Somebody else sent me a PM asking about the paint I used on my floorboards. It is zero-rust paint. I've bought 6-packs of the areosol 3 separate occasions (I've used about 12 cans of it on everything you see in this forum post) I ordered it from this website which also has some good info about it: http://zero-rust.com/ I really like the paint and the claims from people online. It definately seems like a better product than anything you can buy at the local auto parts stores. I got 2 new tight radius 90 degree 4" diameter bends and the -4 AN oil feed line and fittings for my turbo today. I'll probably start working on the fresh air line today... It sure will be nice to have it done. I've been talking/thinking about a good way to do to it for a long time, now. Pics will be up when I have a chance to show some progress.

LOL... This could never happen here in the states... talk about a lawsuit!

During the run where you were focused on the tach (2:33)... it was bouncing during acceleration - more than I think it should. Is that a result of the boost creep, or could it be causing the creep? Take a log with megasquirt to see what manifold pressure, RPM, and throttle position are doing. I'm suprised that a 38mm gate can't keep up with the air you are pushing. I know that Tial 38mm gates are used in 500 hp applications all over the place.

Thanks for the feedback! For the hot side of the turbo - with the preheating / slowed cooling and use of 99% nickel rod... I haven't seen any cracking. My old man tells me that more than likely if there will be a crack - it would've happened by now. On the turbo manifold - we still used the nickel rod and preheating / slowed cooling, but there have been so many people on this site use regular mig without any special treatment with great results - it seems the general opinion is that the manifold is a very weldable cast steel than a typical "tough to weld" iron. Again - thanks for the feedback. I ask a lot of questions in my posts that never get a reply on... makes me wonder if I'm talking to myself.

I've got my plan mapped out for my intake... It is going in the front-left wheel well behind the headlight bucket. 4" mandrel bends should be here next Tuesday. Today I made aluminum brackets to support my fuel rail and worked on my dash. I got a bad batch of blue LEDs online when I made my dash the first time - so I had to replace 4 of them with CRAZY expensive ones from radio shack (about 4 bucks each!). I also did some trimming on the dash and cleaned it up. Tomorrow - work on finishing fuel plumbing (I think I'm going to be short a fitting or two) - reinstall clutch slave and bleed it. - run wires for wideband O2, reverse swtich, speedo sensor, fuel pump, and fuel injectors. If I can finish the wiring - put the dash back in.

Are there holes in it? It may just be surface rust. No real need to change it if it isn't leaking unless you want a performance exhaust.

Turbo or N/A? How many miles on the engine? Did you mess with the bolts? If it is N/A - stock or header? Probably very unlikely that your manifold is cracked... Probably just a gasket. Either way the manifold has to come off... If it isn't your DD - get that thing off of there and find out for sure.

If you are going to go to the trouble of having NOS in your car... for god sake spray it in the motor.

I mentioned in my previous post about checking turning left versus right... With a limited slip it won't be as easy, but turn while accelerating and see if it happens more one direction vs. the other. If it happens when turning the car to the right - check the left halfshaft.... If it happens when turning the car to the left - check the right halfshaft.

The key is to make the angle at each of the U-Joints equal. If you have a large angle at the joint from the engine to the driveshaft - and the joint from the driveshaft to the diff is perfectly straight... you will see a rotational acceleration in the output into the diff (the vibration). If the angles are equal and "in plane" - the equal U-joint angles will cancel each other out and you will not have rotational acceleration (vibration). Clear?

Well... Started out tonight trying to figure out how to route the fresh air lines. And I didn't get very far. I can't figure out a way to get a large volume of filtered air from the FRONT of the car (before or beside the intercooler) to the turbo inlet - there just isn't any room to do it cleanly. All of this got me to thinking about hood scoops... I'm NOT thinking about putting in a hood scoop for fresh air, but what about making a reverse scoop and drawing the cold air off of the ground? I'm thinking about running a scoop under the core support to a box where I can moumt a filter and draw the air. To investigate - I put the airdam and bumper back on the front of the car tonight and started laying it out in my head. I've never seen it done like that before, but I can't think of a reason it wouldn't work. Only downside I can see is that it might be heavier than the average air intake setup. I sure wish I could think of a better way. I did a bunch of searching, and I don't think I have room to run another tube through the core support. Any Ideas?

Need to find out more about the noise in order to narrow it down some... Does it only do it when you are stopped? Does it do it more turning left vs. right at a slow speed? Does it do it in reverse? Does it do it when you go over bumps? Is it a metal on metal sound - or more muffled? What stub axles are you running? Do the U-Joints look like they are in good shape (if you are running regular U-Joint stub shafts)? What kind of diff mount are you using? Make sure all the driveshaft and stub axle bolts are tight. Are you certian it isn't a gear noise from the diff?

Exhaust and downpipe done: Intercooler piping - hot side: Cold Side: I bought hump hoses for both hot and cold sides, but I don't think I'm going to put them in... or maybe I'll put them in at the intercooler connection. The pictures don't seem to do my work justice. I'm happy with how everything turned out. This week: - Finish the intercooler tubing. I'm going to bend some light gage rod around the ends of the tubes that have hose connections and weld it on. - Filtered Air tubing - and order the air filter. 4" piping - here I come. - Mount fuel rail and finish fuel plumbing. - Do some wiring (new injectors, wideband o2 sensor, speedo sensor...) Thanks for watching and I appreciate any feedback / constructive criticism.

www.peopleofwalmart.com All I can say is... WOW. That is it... just wow... I've included a few of my favorite car-related pics from the site, but there is something for everybody. Check it out. Flashlight = headlight I GOTS A WING ON DA BACK!!!! I used some foam to seal up the drivers side... hotness: I bet the welds on the frame are more hilarious than the look of this POS.

I'm going to reiterate my previous post... at the TV level - racing is a business. PERIOD. You think John doesn't know what is best for his business and racing in general. You think there is something altogether special about the Busch or Earnhardt family... so much so they can have brothers racing? You are nuts. It is all about opportunity, the means, and the BUSINESS of racing. You think John Force's actions would have been ok at a local racing level you are crazy. NHRA = money and John has made his fortune playing this business. Go big or go home. If the NHRA wants to try and outlaw "team" racing - do it. It will change the PROFESSION of drag racing. Until then - they have to live with what they've set up for rules.

He played the business of racing perfect... What is that - 4 Force cars in the chase? Screw Cruz P. and all of his whining.

If you were tuned into the Z gods today - you may have heard them say "you're welcome" to me as I tried fitting up my Holset turbo to the manifold... I could fit a 3/16" drill bit between the manifold and compressor housing (both were cold, obviously). WOO HOO!!! Had me contemplating putting the Z aside for a while to calm down, but now the work must press on! I need to do some chopping on the housing so I want to remove it from the center section. Tomorrow I'll be shopping for a pair of gigantic-ass snap ring pliars for this snap ring (look near my thumb): I tried to use a cotter pin removing tool, needle nose, and some screwdrivers but I can't get the damn thing out.