jakeshoe

I assure you, there is no TV cable on a 4L60-E or 4L80-E. You are probably seeing a cruise control cable.

There is no TV cable on a 4L80E or 4L60E, etc. The line pressure is controlled by the EPC (Electronic Pressure controller). You still need a TPS with an aftermarket controller. You can fabricate something or use the TCI setup. TCI controller is ~$650 from Jegs, etc. TPS setup is another $200. I am working on a deal to become a dealer for the TCI stuff so I can incorporate it into my transmission packages.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1∂=JTR%2DDATZ&N=700+400209+4294773491+115&autoview=sku

IIRC Summit sells these and may have them in stock.

The factory "stand-alone" TCM was used only on diesels. Unless you want WOT shift points at 2500 rpm, it would need to be re-programmed. I haven't heard of anybody having success with that approach. Not to say it can't be done, but you would be on the learning curve. If you burn up the trans learning, its about $500 in parts to rebuild it (stock), plus labor, converter that will be contaminated, etc. You could probably find a good working wrecking yard 4L80E for $600-1000. But it still needs to be broken into for a 34 element sprag, dual feeding the direct clutches, new filter, pan gasket, etc. That's ~$200 worth of parts alone and about 1/2 of the rebuild price for labor.

The stock 4L80 will need to have the direct clutches dual fed and a 34 element sprag added to reliably handle 700 HP/TQ. I am building one right now for similar power levels but it is a full manual setup. Other than that it is a pretty solid trans as is. If you get much higher a billet input shaft and forward hub ($100 or so) become a wise upgrade. TCi has the lowest cost controller on the market at about $650. The Compushift is quite a bit more expensive at over $1000. PCS also makes a controller for ~$800 IIRC. The stock GM stand alone controller was for diesel engines and I haven't ever seen anybody successfully use it. I've heard rumors... In any case by the time you buy it, a harness, and the equipment to reburn the chips, you could have an easily programmed TCi unit. Sometimes there just isn't a cheap way out. The stock converter would also fail doing WOT lockup at 700 lb/ft but would be fine if driven "normal". However a stock converter is heavy and a low stall speed (truck applications). My suggestion is to buy a transmission built to handle the power level you ultimately intend, either go with a full manual setup, or buy the controller, and then buy a quality converter. If you plan to use lockup under WOT, buy a multi-disc unit. ~$1000 for the converter. If you want a quality single disc converter you are looking at ~$700.

Ya, On a car that originality isn't the theme the electronic speedos are the cheapest way to go. The converter box is the next cheapest. I'll run up a total and PM you.

Is it a 700-R4 trans? If so it sound slike the 2-4 band burnt up or if you have no reverse the sun shell broke. Both somewhat common.

My 260Z runs and drives and is tagged. I plan to pull the TH350 out and install a Super T-10 four speed. I blew the collector gaskets on the last drive about a month ago (at about 135 mph ) and I've been to busy to fix it. Procrastinating on the gaskets because the exhaust has to come off for the trans swap. I'm ready for the trans swap now, just installed this in the shop:

It was supposedly a working trans when pulled but I don't know the history of it so I would rebuild it. Do you need it with a mechanical speedo or do you want to run a converter box that converts the electronioc signal to cable drive? It's $500 for the mechanical speedo setup, or ~$300 for the converter box, or you can run an electric speedo...

I don't rebuild the Datsun/Nissan stuff but I can get parts for them (I do GM racing transmissions). I show the trans you are looking for as being available. I can get a complete kit, individual parts, etc.

Mike, I have a 4L80E core, there is no such thing as a 4L80, they were all electronic versions. They can be converted to full manual. If you need a core or a built trans let me know.

Mike, A BRF trans is simply a regular 200-4R with a performance calibrated valve body, governor, and servo. For anuything voer 400 Hp you're going to use a different servo. The valve body is worth about $300-400 by itself. If you buy a BRF core be SURE you are getting the BRF valve body, otherwise you're dealing with a $75 transmission core. Nothing special. 200-4Rs are dime a dozen here for cores. There are pictures online of a BRF valve body. If you need one I have one if you decide to build a 200-4R. Chris at CKPerformance is one of the best 200-4R guys in the country. I deal with him on an almost weekly basis for speicalty transmission parts. I build the 200-4R's for performance usage and you can easily get into one $2K without a converter. I've gotten into building more and more of the 4L80E's for the heavy hitting cars that need an OD. I can do them with a full manual VB or electronic control. I have 3 in the shop now. In my experience the 200-4R is relatively safe to the 550-600 HP/TQ level when built properly an using the billet forward drum. You could go to about 750 using a billet input shaft and OD carrier but there is a point of diminishing returns.

I have a TH400 transbrake setup that is a manual/auto valve body, so it shifts itself as normal but you can also have the transbrake. It is not reverse pattern though.

Cable, I have a 4L80E core on hand and am doing a couple right now for Team Chevelle guys. One is a full manual valve body setup and the other is electronic. It is hard to beat the 4L80 for pure strenght. I'll do an online buildup article when I get caught up in the shop. I've got to go unload the car lift I bought today so I can start installation of it. The 200-4Rs would do OK in a Z car, the light weight makes the trans live longer.

It sounds like an LS-6 crate engine from the sticker and the head casting number "990" heads are rectangular port BBC heads used on the LS6 crate motors. The block casting date you listed looks like a 1978 model, but you could be reading the 3 as an 8 in the casting because it is often difficult to tell the difference due to the casting flash. 3965775 is the GM part number, but it is no longer a valid part number. A GM parts counter guy can probably look it up. The LS-6 crate engines have been discontinued so there won't be an updated number.

I agree with grumpy here, the rod bolts are one of the most stressed items on an engine. Besides the items grumpy mentioned you also get fatique over time due to the stresses encountered. Additionally, a quality fastener like an ARP will fit tighter in the rod and rod cap and provide a more exact fit of the cap to the rod when disassembled and then re-assembled. While this makes it harder to get the cap off the rod, it is an advantage when using a stock type rod. Just one of the advantages. My opinion differs from grumpy on the strength of the stock 3/8" bolt variety rods. There are lots of combos out there with even the heavy stock BBC 3/8" rods that see relatively high rpm (over 7K rpm) and load. Some builders argue that the 3/8" rods have more rod material around the bolt than the 7/16" variety and are therefore stronger. I've seen both work well. However, even though the stock rods with ARP bolts and reconditioning are adequate in very stout combos, when you analyze the cost of the rod bolts ($40-up), reconditioning ($80-up), and the cost of the rod cores if you have to purchase them, it is hard to argue with some of the aftermarket offerings available. As an example, if you have an existing set of SBC rods and were to recon them with good bolts, you would be into them probably $120. You then have a set of rods that have already seen stresses and oftentimes don't know what their usage has actually been. You could purchase these rods new for $179. This is a stock equivalent rod with good bolts. http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/product.asp?ProdID=1118&CtgID=1003 That $59 difference is good peace of mind. If you have a stout combo this rod is an excellent quality deal: http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/product.asp?ProdID=6922&CtgID=1003 The SCAT I beam capscrew rods seem to offer the best clearance to the cam in stroker applications for a "budget-concious" build. Crower and others make some stroker profile rods that are super nice but the price is about double that of the Scats.

OK, Thanks, I didn't even know to look for it there. Wondered what happened to it, now I know.

Where did it go?

Just to respond to this. I have never seen a 383 go together that didn't require any block clearancing. I have heard of a couple but have never seen it personally. No matter what rods you use, plan on clearnancing a SBC stroker motor. The issue with a SBC is cam to rod clearance. Using a Scat I-beam capscrew rod, I have been able to use regular base circle cams on 3.750 stroke combos without issue, I usually have to touch up a couple of rods for clearance but nothing major and not nearly as much grinding as using a stock 5.7 rod or most H-beams.

I have to agree with grumpy here, I would go forged for the little additonal expense. My experience is the forged offerings from Eagle or Scat balance easier than the cast. Less heavy metal if any. So some of the additional expense of forged is actually saved when you put it on the balance machine. Another point to be made is that usually an I-beam rod is lighter on the reciprocating end than a H beam. It is better to have rotating weight than reciprocating. I would look at prices for a kit with forged crank, 7/16" capscrew I- beams, and forged pistons. I've gotten good prices from http://www.flatlanderracing.com. Most recently used CNC Motorsports for the 496 I did last week. Pictured above... If it had used I-beam rods it wouldn't have required any block clearancing, but with the H-beams it needed clearancing on the cam side of the cylinders.

I have to disagree with grumpy here, an I-beam with capscrews seems to clear better than an H-beam rod. The Scat brand I-beam 7/16" capscrew rods seem to work very well in the SBC builds for cam clearance. I clearanced a BBC last weekend for a 4.250 crank and it used H-beam rods, although on a BBC the cam to rod clearance isn't usually an issue, I had to do more grinding on the block than other 496 combos I've done. Using I beam rods most 4.250 stroke BBCs (using a 454 block) will "usually" require NO clearancing on the block. Edited to add disclaimer "usually".

It would be WAY easier to just buy an aftermarket style starter as suggested. Drilling the hole requires perfect alignment, which requires a fixture. If you look at ther existing holes you will also notice they have a counterbored area before the threads start. This is for the knurled portion of the bolt to engage and help prevent flexing. This isn't a simple drill and tap ordeal even with the motor out on a stand.

4L80E requires either a control unit or manual VB, tailhousong for mechanical speedo, converter box, or electronic speedo, shortened driveshaft, crossmember mods, and 4L80 specific converter.

1991-up GM 3/4 ton and larger trucks. Used behind the 454's, 8.1's and some 6.0L's usually.