Kali

After looking more in depth into your pics I understand the spacers and mounting for the fuel rail. Can't really figure out the linkage for the throttle bar though. If you could go more into that?

Wow, ive heard people talk about this but they just go the easy route and pay the 2K+ Im trying to do a similiar build with my engine though im going with a L31ET. If you could please send you blueprints and parts list you could seriously help.

Id have to say the OS Giken Fairlady. RHD with the Stroked DOHC, and stacked carbs. Things i would change just cause id would if i had the time and the money; First change out the carbs to a ITB system, and the dizzy to a COP ignition system. GT35R turbo, and change out the stock tranny to a Z32. I know for you purests out there this is just horrible, and if i had to save for 2 lifetimes i would appreciate it just a tad more. But like i said if i had the money just laying around i would.

Doing a EFI 3.1L turbo should be up and running in a week or so... But ive said that for months now. * F54 L28et turbo block * JE Forged Pistons and rings 89mm * Mechart A-Beam Investment casted Stainless Steel rods * ARP Rod Bolts * Diesel Maxima Crank shaft Knife edged lightened and Zero balanced * Nismo oil pump * ARP Head studs * SCE 2mm Solid Copper head gasket with sealing rings * Nismo single groove dampener w/ Nismo front crank bolt * 83 zx turbo oil pan * P90 Head * Schnider Cam Lift(In/Ex): .460/.460. Duration(In/Ex): 270/280. * Schnider matching dual valve springs, retainers, lash pads, and rocker arms * Ported polished * 5 angle valve job * Resurfaced and decked combustion chamber and intake/exhaust side * N42 non-egr intake manifold * 420cc injectors (merc) * JSK Fuel rail w/ Autometer pressure gauge * T3/T4 Turbo * MSA Down Pipe * Oil pressure T-fitting w/ Hard style oil to turbo * zx turbo valve cover * 83 280zx electronic distributor * 2.5" thick innercooler * Borg Warner T-5 * zero balanced flywheel and clutch * 3 core MSA radiator * Walbro 255lph fuel pump * MSnS V2.2 * MS Relay board * MS Boost Controller * Fuel regulator * MSA BOV I thinks that all i can remember off the top of my head. if you want to see some pics look up L31ET Eventually going with 750cc injectors, bigger CAM, and ITB system.

Are those wheeles going to make the turning radius clearance and proper spaceing with the stock suspension or are you going to change the suspension out? Im not to far either for now, ft lewis, my 3.1L L28ET is out in Everett at Z sport racing for installing my base tune for my MS ECU, hopefully by the end of the week she should be running. Hope to see you on the road soon.

Are those wheeles going to make the turning radius clearance and proper spaceing with the stock suspension or are you going to change the suspension out? Im not to far either for now, ft lewis, my 3.1L L28ET is out in Everett at Z sport racing for installing my base tune for my MS ECU, hopefully by the end of the week she should be running. Hope to see you on the road soon.

So a little bit of an update, no the car is not running. Placed the WB O2 below the shifter but above the Ash tray. Thought it would be an out of the way spot. Hope to get the car out of the shop soon to get it out o Everett, WA for the tunning process.

So i didnt want to do it but my time to move out to Japan is coming closer and closer. I am unable to find base maps for my setup. So im going to go to Z Sport Racing to complete the tunning on my project and hopfully when i move to Japan i will be able to buy another car while im there. I dont plan on selling Kaali, in fact ive been trying to sell my DD so that i could buy a 71' Dime. Thanks HybridZ im hooked . So im callin ZSR tomarrow for the third time just cause work has been to busy and every time i call the tech isnt in. Found out his schedule is from tues-fri 10am-?pm So i will keep you guys updated on the next tunning chapter of Kaali.

Put up another fixed!!! WOO HOO ive got spark pulse again and while cranking too. I was right and the polarity was in the wrong direction with the wrong transistor. Back to the tunning. FIDDLESTICKS! So im going to post another topic. If annone out there that spark table for a bored out L28 to a 3.1L turbo it would be greatly appriceated. Thanks

So ive got the pulse back but ive lost the spark again.... Ok ok deep breaths... So Q5 burnt out again ordered the transistor on friday. just been crazy with training that i have to been able to focus on my car as much as id like. But im determined to get it started by August if not sooner. I think that the first time that i fried Q5 i replaced it with the wrong transistor. As posted on this other post "keep burning out Q5" i relized that when i bought the replacement for the original i bought a NPN while i believe the MS comes with a PNP, wrong polarity from what i read. I never thought those words wouldcome out of my mouth in a somewhat knowledgable form until today. Hey you always learn something new. Back to the drawing board. I should get the part here in a day or so ill let you know if its fixed.

No worries on the drawing. Thanx though ill let you know if i get anywhere with this.

@ Cannonball89 Well i used the wiring diagram via this link http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/69077-msd-ignition-megasquirt-wiring/ So lets say it is the relay. Then what would that mean i would have to replace it? Maybe a possible short would burn the relay and not allowing the circut to seperate during cranking? Im sorry if i way off my knowledge towards this kind of thing is very limited.

Hmmm... i guess not they do get voltage on the higher rpms just not while its cranking. Could my Pulse Widths settings be off?

crnking RPM is about 135 cranking PW is set to 6.5 last part i didnt understand Thanks I'll check over my settings just to make sure

So basically its what stated at the topic description. While im cranking i have spark, WOO HOO, but my injectors are not firing. So i have 420cc injectors, running at 44psi. Under injectors charaterisics injector opening time under 1ms, battery voltage correction is at .1, PWM is at 100, and PWM time threshold at 25.4. Im pretty much at a stand point. Also if someone can decribe on how to export MSQ files. Im talking with Matt Cramer from diy and he needs to see my MSQ and all im getting is word files. Any help will be appreciated. THanks

Awsome work there guy.

During that initial start what is recomended for the RPMs to be held at for 20mins to break in the cam? Ive heard as high as 3k to as low as 900.

Thanks for the input guys

Or this http://www.348-409.com/fireup.html

Ok found some info at http://www.enginesonly.com/break-in.html Break-in and Installation Instructions PROTECT THE INVESTMENT YOU HAVE IN YOUR ENGINE. TAKE THE TIME TO READ AND FOLLOW THESE RECOMMENDATIONS: BREAK IN PROCEDURE 1.) Drive normally but not a continuous high speeds for the first 500 miles. Occasional quick bursts of speed followed by quick deceleration during this period, is beneficial. AVOID LUGGING!!! TRIPS AND TOWING are not recommended until after 1000 miles. NOTE: Applying loads to the engine for short periods of time causes increased ring pressure against cylinder walls and helps to seat the rings. This is especially important because you are "BREAKING-IN" the engine with heavy duty oils. The rapid deceleration increases vacuum and gives extra lubrication to the piston and other assemblies. 2.) IMPORTANT! AFTER 500 TO A MAXIMUM OF 1000 MILES OF SERVICE, change oil and filter and readjust the valves, except hydraulic. We also require that valve adjustments be done again after a total of 6000 miles. We require a maximum of 3000 miles between oil changes and factory recommendation on valve adjustments thereafter. NOTE: Add oil at 1/2 quart intervals on small capacity engines. OIL AND WATER LEVELS ARE A DRIVER OR OWNER MAINTENANCE RESPONSIBILITY, THEY MUST BE KEPT FULL. We realize that this means extra effort on your part, but it assures long and satisfactory engine performance. 3.) A heavy duty detergent oil is required. Use a good quality brand oil, Some Manufacturers require 5/30, others recommend 10/40 for 20 degrees Fahrenheit to 100 degrees Fahrenheit and use 20/50w for higher temperatures and heavy duty use. NOTE: In past years, it has been common practice to use non-detergent and straight weight oil during the "BREAK-IN" period because it was felt that the rings would seat quicker without the film strength additives. More recently, there has been a trend to high speed and high temperature engines, cam lobe and tappet loads also have increased to a point where it is important to use heavy duty oils which contain a EP (high pressure) additive right from the start. Rings will seat properly when moderate loads are applied as noted above in section one. 4.) Keep your engine in tune. Tune-up specifications should always be to the manufacturers recommended specifications. 5.) PLEASE! If you experience any trouble or even suspect a problem please contact us IMMEDIATELY! It is easier and cheaper to fix a little problem than a big one. IMPORTANT ITEMS TO LOOK FOR WHEN INSTALLING A REPLACEMENT ENGINE TO AVOID EARLY ENGINE FAILURE 1.) Determine why old engine failed. Check catalytic converter or computer controlled parts, check engine warning light codes, radiator, water pump, etc. Do not install replacement engine with defective components, this could cause premature failure. 2.) Compare rebuilt engine with old engine as to crankshaft flange, pilot hole and bearing, oil pan, timing cover, engine mounting provisions and cylinder head mounting holes. 3.) Prime the oil pump in any acceptable Industry Standard Method! This is very important. 4.) All related parts not furnished by us should be thoroughly cleaned. 5.) If original engine has blown and scattered pieces, such as piston particles, you Must thoroughly inspect intake manifold for foreign material to avoid destroying the new engine. 6.) Make sure that dipstick tube and dipstick are of proper length to register required amount of oil. 7.) Check motor mounts for oil soak and parting of rubber from metal. 8.) Radiator should be flow tested and thoroughly cleaned if necessary. 9.) Check radiator cap for application and operation. 10.) Replace thermostat to avoid possible failure. 11.) All hoses, radiator, heater, and by pass should be replaced if necessary. 12.) A heavy duty detergent oil is required. Use a good quality brand oil, Some Manufacturers require 5/30, others recommend 10/40 for 20 degrees Fahrenheit to 100 degrees Fahrenheit and use 20/50w for higher temperatures and heavy duty use. 13.) Always replace oil filter cartridge and flush any cooler lines. And replace oil cooler if contaminated. 14.) Oil pressure and temperature sending units may need to be replaced because they have a tendency to leak oil and register improper after a reinstall. 15.) Always install new spark plugs of proper heat range and check to make sure the spark plug wires are in good condition. 16.) Check distributor, advance controls and distributor cap for cracks. 17.) Water pump should be checked for signs of leaking. 18.) Clutch fan should be checked for proper operation. 19.) Fan belts should be checked for cracks and other defects. 20.) Check fuel pump for oil leak at pivot pin and also for fuel leaks. 21.) Check heat riser valve for proper operation. 22.) Replace paper air filter or clean oil type. 23.) Check smog components and computer sensors. Replace defective or old parts. 24.) VERY IMPORTANT!!! Make sure radiator is full of coolant (at least 50% water and 50% antifreeze) and Engine Block is filled full before attempting to start engine. CAUTION: Air Locks can ruin a new engine. 25.) When filling radiator make sure it is filled to proper capacity and that there are no air locks, as this can cause cracking of cylinder block and heads. 26.) Start engine, check oil pressure, adjust ignition timing to manufacturers specifications and adjust carburetor after engine has warmed up fully. Also, at this time be sure to check for any water or oil leaks. 27.) Take the car for a road test. After road testing the vehicle recheck installation, oil and water levels, look for any leaks, recheck timing and adjust carburetor if necessary. Please refer to "BREAK IN PROCEDURE" sheet for further information. See Warranty Addendum #8 NOTE: After at least 1 hour running time and engine has cooled, retorque head and adjust valves to manufacturers specifications. On Required engines if you are not sure if this is required on your engine ASK! ATTENTION: WARNING TO INSTALLING MECHANIC!!! Every effort has been made to accurately supply the proper item, however it is the responsibility of the installing mechanic to verify engine and parts for correct size and application by comparing the old parts. This is due to the many combinations available on the market today. You are responsible for the correct installation of the engine. The engine life and performance depends on a good professional installation. Follow the instructions carefully. Seek professional help if you are uncertain about ANYTHING! Why do i always answer my own questions

So im hoping that my car will have its first start by the end of the month, which means im going to drive it soon. Im kinda scared... I know, i know thats the whole point right, to drive the car that you have spent so much money and time on. Well ive never broke in a engine. Does anyone have any suggestions? Heres the part list if it helps: Block: * F54 L28et turbo block * JE Forged Pistons and rings 89mm * Mechart A-Beam Investment casted Stainless Steel rods * ARP Rod Bolts * Diesel Maxima Crank shaft Knife edged lightened and Zero balanced * Nismo Main cap bolts * Nissan factory Main and rod berings * Nismo oil pump * ARP Head studs * SCE 2mm Solid Copper head gasket with sealing rings * Brand new Front timing cover * New Oil pump drive spindle and crank gear * Nismo single groove dampener w/ Nismo front crank bolt * 83 280zx turbo oil pan Head: * P90 Head off 83 ZX turbo * Schnider Cam Lift(In/Ex): .460/.460. Duration(In/Ex): 270/280. * Schnider matching dual valve springs, retainers, lash pads, and rocker arms * Ported polished * 5 angle valve job * New valve seals * Resurfaced and decked combustion chamber and intake/exhaust side * N42 non-egr intake manifold * 420cc injectors * JSK Fuel rail w/ Autometer pressure gauge * T3/T4 Turbo * 2.5" exhaust mid pipe * Oil pressure T-fitting w/ Hard style oil to turbo 83 280zx electronic distributor MSD boost dependent Spark retard Box 2.5" thick innercooler Borg Warner T-5 zero balanced flywheel and clutch 3 core MSA radiator MSA BOV MSA Manual Boost Controler Walbro 255lph fuel pump MS1 extra V2.2 LC-1 WB O2

Well its done change this topic from No Spark to "SPARK" WOO HOO! So for the moment we are just turning the dizzy manually, but we have spark and pulse. Oh geese louise please if anyone is reading this please let me know if there is something else i should expect... You know like another little thing out there thats going to take a month and a half to trouble shoot. Cause nothing was broken accept my learning curve. Well as soon as i get her running ill post a video. Right now at the moment we are working on cleaning up the engine bay, and placing the WB O2 AFR meter. Going to place it right above the ash tray. So to recap here is what ive done. 1. Ive followed the MSD wiring diagram to the letter, Not the HEI not the EDIS. 2. Dont forget to Apply jumper from LED17 to X12. (I was a tad iffy about LED17 because on my board all it says is D17) 3. I checked all circuts and transistors daily every time i hooked up my MS1, not necessary but im just a caucious guy. 4. When it says in big bold red letters Very Important: Set Spark Out Inverted = YES and set the Dwell to around 6.0mS for cranking 3.5mS for Running and 0.1mS for the Minimum Time as a starting point! Also set LED17 as SparkA output in Codebase and Output Functions!! Read the Software manual for more info!! You should probably do that. So i hope this all helps... Check the links on the topic they should help, if you have a MSD 6A. HAPPY TUNNING

Well hope you get her started soon. Post some pics of your progess.

Looks like the build is going well. Havent gotten mine started but i have 3.1L built just working with the MS and tunning for now. Hope you get it running soon. Here she is outside and in the car for the moment:

So apparently i didnt make the jump from LED 17 to X12. Also Q5 transistor got fried. Headed over to Radio shack for a replacement. Good as new... i hope. Still working on her as i go. Weather is getting to nice out here in WA to not have her on the road. Thanks for the kind words Moby. Wondering if anyone can explain how to wire up the tach adapter though?