zack_280

Mark, I'm going to be at COTA for the WRL race. Any chance of you running the open lapping HPDE on Friday, 12/3? Mostly, I just want to see the car in person.

Not sure this is a Champcar legal head, but I won't protest you if you run it.

I like that post...I'd use the button, but apparently I can only react to one post per day and I already liked Tony's post.

What Tony said...Not to mention the issue with oil buildup on the valves. I guess you could do what Subaru and Toyota and maybe others are doing and running DI and MPFI at the same time. Derek, Maybe you could whip us up a few heads with both in your spare time.

Just run the turbo for 100 points and spend the rest on aero and suspension.

I currently have a P90 head that needs to be replaced on an F54 block. PM me if you have one available. Thanks, Zack

Speaking of V2...I assume it will use this. http://www.freevalve.com/ Not sure why you didn't go with this option in the 1st place...No issues with cams, gears, chains, VTEC, etc. It pretty much eliminates all of your challenges. You really should have consulted me more on this build in the early stages.

Nice! The head that I had to trash was done by Jim Thompson (supposedly). Unfortunately it appeared that the PO blew a head gasket and allowed water to sit in it for a few years. When I took the motor apart, I found out both the head and block were toast. So I bought another head from a member here and have been having a few problems that I believe are related to it. So now I'm hoping this will solve all of my problems. I'm pretty sure complication and money are usually the best way to solve engine issues.

Wow. I wasn't really sure what happened since my buddy didn't see it. He was just repeating what he heard. It's pretty scary to think about. Not sure what the actual cause was or if the Mustang driver had any safety equipment, but something like that definitely makes you think twice about safety. I don't think I would ever get on track again without a Hans.

Good luck getting it back together. My buddy was there and told me it was a V8 Z. I heard a guy in a mustang hit the wall pretty hard after he slid through the oil slick.

We are not going to VIR this year either...I really want to do a race there, but we have just gotten to the point where we feel comfortable that we have found all of the bugs...Maybe next year. Not sure about the 24, though. We've only got 4 guys on our team and the car owner doesn't really want to trust anybody he doesn't know. Also we are definitely doing Barber in August and there is no way we would sign up for both of those races since they are so close. This year has been mostly positive, so we might make it out to VIR next year. I'm not familiar with Shenandoah, but generally tight courses are better for E30s. I imagine that the E36s will do pretty good too. Just tell your drivers to be smart with passing and keep the shiny side up. Finishing is almost as good as finishing first. If you have good stops, you can make up a lot of time...I think that's how we ended up so far ahead at NCM.

Good luck. We just did the NCM race last weekend in my buddy's E30. Finally got a win on day 1. Day 2 didn't go so good, but we learned to make sure the oil dipstick is completely inserted into the dipstick tube. Unfortunately we have 3 penalty laps for the next 3 races. We won by 2 laps and get a 'margin of victory + 1 lap' penalty for the next 3 races. 3 races! That seems pretty harsh, but rules is rules. We weren't even the fastest E30.

Sorry to hear that Mike. I'm still looking forward to seeing this car on track (probably not as much as you, though).

To answer the original question...You have to put a set screw in the AZC rear LCA. Maybe some setups will be less prone to movement, but mine has pretty tight clearances. At an autocross my outside rear wheel/tire was pushed into my inner fender due to movement of the suspension. I tried to jack the car up and drop it quickly, but it wouldn't move back to the original loaded position. I had to add a set screw. I discussed this with CobraMatt and he said he installed a set screw from day 1 to keep from having alignment issues.

If you are going to install a programmable ECU, you will have some more money in sensors, wiring, etc than just the ECU. It'll probably end up costing over $1k (unless you find a complete or mostly complete used system). If you don't want to spend a bit of time on this, your best bet is to find a stock ECU (assuming you now have the sensors you need to make it work). If necessary, you could buy a wiring harness kit from MS. It is definitely worth every penny. If you do not have the sensors you need and you are planning to tinker with the boost, I would probably go the aftermarked route just for the flexibility of the system.