zack_280

The ECU was from a 300ZX. There is more detail at the JWT website, but it was reflashed for their '450' HP kit. The maps cannot be modified. The fuel injectors per the JWT site are supposed to be 420CC, but the motor had 750CC injectors. The PO had gotten around the disparity through use of an APEXi 'piggyback' ECU. I do not know the compression ratio. Crankshaft timing will be from a 36-1 EDIS wheel. I have a coil per plug setup driven directly through the MSII. No photos of the tops of the pistons, but there is nothing really to see. They are all pretty smooth except for the barely noticable fly-cut for the intake valve. I did a compression test prior to buying the car and came up with 125PSI on all 6 cylinders. Looking at the block there is a noticable horizontal 'scar' on the #1 cylinder wall and a vertical score on #6 that is harder to see, but pretty easy to feel.

OK. That answers the purpose of this topic. The next question is is there a problem with replacing this with the MSA 'performance damper'? I really don't mind using this one. Acutally I would prefer it, it just seems that it will be difficult to adapt the 36-1 trigger wheel to it and the cheapest solution would be this damper from MSA. My goal is to first find a balance of the most reliable and practical solution. Practical from the standpoint of price and application. The application is not a full race motor, but will see quite a bit of time on a race track. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PEM06 Thanks again for the help. Zack

I am going EDIS and plan to replace my damper. I actually bought the kit from Derek, but I think I'm going to try to adapt it for the slightly cheaper 'performance' damper from MSA. Or I may try to sell this one and get the 75-78 280Z damper to use with Derek's kit. Anyway, is anyone familiar with the damper below? The PO spent a lot of money on the motor, but got married before finishing the car and his priorities changed. I didn't get an explaination from him on why he used this damper or toothed wheel. It seemed a little odd since he spent so much $ building the motor and kept the car as light as possible, but then used this huge damper. Thoughts and ramblings welcome. Pic 1 looking down at an angle from the top. Pic 2 Front Pic 3 Rear

It's not the only lean chamber. They all had similar pitting. I think it was due to the JWT reflashed ecu, terrible wiring from the PO, and the wrong injectors used with the JWT reflashed ECU. Ironcally the injectors used were 750CC instead of the 420CC injectors that JWT recommends.

I think the series of unfortunate events started with me purchasing this car, but a blown head gasket wasn't one of the events. I assume by 'smooth all this pitting' that means having it welded and reshaped...If that is the case, what would be a ballpark figure for the expected damage to my wallet? Just looking for an idea of what this should cost.

I have the head off of my motor due to a series of unfortunate events. Motor Details: The engine had <1000 miles on it per the PO and that is probably accurate. The engine was built by Sunbelt about 7 or 8 years ago and the PO never really got the tune sorted out. There was noticeable pinging when I test drove it but it didn't seem to have any compression issues and ran pretty well when it wasn't being pushed too hard. It is an F54/P90 with a Garrett GT35R turbo and some other shiny stuff. I am in the process of installing an MSII ECU. As I said before I removed the head due to a series of unfortunate events and saw this. Here is another pic. This one with no flash. When I first took the head off the pistons were coated in a nasty gunk and so was the combustion chamber. I thought I could see signs of pitting, but was just hoping that it was only sludge. It wasn't. Here is a pic of one of the wiped chambers and one that hasn't been touched. I haven't cleaed up the other chambers yet, but they all appear to have similar pitting. Given that I plan to run 12-18PSI of boost and will be driving this car on race track what is the appropriate course of action for the head? Thanks for the help. Zack

Well, I can't take full credit for the SNAFU. I did have an accomplice who "knew what he was doing". I just didn't take the extra time to look into it first. At least I get to see the tops of my pistons now! And there's a good chance I'll get to see the bottom of them again since I dropped half of the original cam dowel pin down the front of the engine! At least the diff and solid diff mount the PO installed is back in the car. That was a PITA.

Will you accept "I am replacing the cam and I am an idiot." as an answer to your question?

I removed the cam towers. I probably didn't need to, but 'in the heat of the moment' I did it. Some coolant leaked out of the head gasket. Should I replace the head gasket? Thanks in advance, Zack

I must have missed the notice. It was pretty disturbing to not see no stickies in no L6 forum.

Also at Autozone the TPS for the Automatic 240SX (the one in you pic with the switch contacts) was $25 and the one without for is $40. Guess which one I bought.

I agree with Racer Z. Unless you really need them all of the above is bad.

I had this exact problem with a Z I bought when I was young and dumb. I wish I had seen this thread before I sold it for next to nothing. By the way, you have done an excellent job detailing your problem and progress. Hopefully it will be able to help someone in the future.

The one with the switch is for auto transmission cars on the 240SX. And it's cheaper at Autozone ($25 vs $40). If you buy the auto trans version and use the switched output (three pin connection on the bottom) it should work.

I didn't have too much trouble getting it through the firewall. Just had to remove the connector housing and bend it sideways and it went right through. I'm still at least a month from getting it running, though.

Here is what you did. It works well and is pretty clean since you left the FIdle output on the same relay board terminal. Here is another option that would take less wiring on the relay board, but swaps the IAC-1A and FIdle output. I did not buiild my relay board, so for me the less changes the better. I havent tried to swap the wires on the DB-37 and it may be easier to cut the traces and add two more jumpers on the relay board, but you get the idea.

<P>Nevermind. Now I see your dilemma and the solution looks solid.</P>

That's actually the uber rare JDM spark plug cooler blower. It doubles as an oil filter cooler blower. Very ahead of it's time.

I was just looking for some information on total lift based on measured cam lift and didn't find anything on the site. It may be here or buried in a thread somewhere, but I figured it would be useful to someone like me who was looking (or hoping) for a quick answer. My quick answer only brought up more questions, but I did get an answer. Someone here posted their cam profile and total valve lift. I used that to calculate the multiplier to get from cam lift to valve lift (see below). -------------------Cam Lift----------Valve Clearance-------Valve Lift--------Multiplier Intake---------- 0.333-------------0.01-----------------------0.5053-------------1.564 Exhaust-------- 0.334-------------0.012----------------------0.5053-------------1.569 I wasn't sure (and am still not) what my cam profile was since I purchased the car with this Sunbelt/Jim Thompson built engine already in it. But based on a post from someone else they had a similar engine built by Sunbelt and the gross valve lift was "493". Based on my measured cam using the multiplier above my intake is (0.325-0.01) X 1.564 = 0.4927 and the exhaust is (0.327-0.012) X 1.569 = 0.4942. Now this was in no way a scientific experiment, and actual lift will vary based on the assembled geometry of the valvetrain. However, if you are looking for a quick answer this might be useful. Another reference would be Frank Honsowetz book "How to Modify your Nissan & Datsun OHC Engine". He suggests using a multiplier of 1.5 as a rule of thumb. Another interesting thing I found was the grinder used for my cam. It is an outfit in California called Integral Cams. Here is a link to their website. It looks like they have some standard grinds for street and track. I spoke to them the other day and the recommended talking to Jim Thompson (Sunbelt) or Jim Wolfe for technical info on custom cam profiles. I'm still waiting on a call from Jim Thompson. http://www.integralc...om/nissanL6.htm Enjoy, edit: I pasted an excel table. It looked fine in the original write-up, but didn't translate on the final product.

OK. I think I'm good. I'm sure it will make more sense when I have it here to look at. I'm just trying to make sure that I have everything beforehand.

I just ordered mine with the green backlight also. Do you have any pics of your Blitz21?

Are you saying we would should to buy another of these in addition to the one that comes with the gauge for the 2 5/8" gauges? http://www.speedhut...._NUMBER-718.htm

I thought you could get the GPS unit with turn signals. Confirmed. Here it is. I'm thinking about going Revolution, if I can get myself to justify the cost. http://www.speedhut.com/custom_gauge_description-gauge_type-Speedometer_GPS-auto_number-882.htm

That car looks a lot like mine. Where are you located? Unfortunately I don't have any pics at the moment. It's in the 'being-worked-on' phase.

The cressida has the most artistic pic. But I voted for you anyway.