zack_280

Might be worth entering into Lemons or Chumpcar at least.

Good info, Jon. I will say from experience that if you do have a clunk, you might want to take the diff out and check the front mount before trying to launch the car at an autox. Or you could be in for some undercarriage damage and further embarrassment. Or so a 'friend of mine' tells me. As a matter of fact, I would say that if you do not know that the diff mount was recently replaced it's probably a good idea to just go ahead and replace it. It's cheap and not too terribly difficult. Also gives you a chance to do a little further trouble shooting while you are at it.

Got a few things done (or mostly done) this weekend. I installed this adjustable brake proportioning valve in place of the existing switch and bias valve. I also replaced the master cylinder with the Wilwood 1" master cylinder. I bought two 8" lines with 3/8-24 fittings for the connection for the MC to the prop valve. Then I bought 3 20" lines for the connections to the front and rear brakes. I had to cut off the 3/8 fittings on one end and replace them with M10X1.0 fittings. That was a bit of a pain. Unless you have a quality flaring tool, I would suggest taking them to a brake shop. It cost me $20 to have the M10 fittings installed and the ends flared. All of the fittings on the prop valve leaked. I had to loosen them and retighten them a few times before they seated correctly. It was a PITA. http://wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd.aspx?itemno=260-11179 Then I installed the swirl pot/surge tank mentioned in my last post. I got all of the lines plumbed up and the system pressure tested. I located the surge tank on the battery tray. It fit perfectly. I was even able to reuse the two existing send and return lines. I'm hoping to get the fuel line anchors remounted tomorrow and take the car out Tuesday or Wednesday for a test run.

My rear main came with the 'nails'. That being said one of them didn't seat flush with the surface and now I have an ever-so-slight leak. Not sure if you would have to have them or not, but I have a few gasket sets laying around and they all seemed to have them. I also have the kameari idler and I used the straight chain guide. Seems to be working fine after about 700 miles.

Thanks. I just bought some straight steel line sections of line that already have the fittings on them. They were pretty cheap at Summit, but now I need a 3/8 24 to 10mmX1 adapter. Not having much luck there. At least the lines only cost about $5 each and I only needed 3. I figured I'd buy them and then try to find fittings and if I can't then I'll try to get some copper-nickel alloy lines and borrow a flaring tool or something.

Thanks, John. Now I just need to find all of the fittings and place my order with Summit.

Thanks for the feedback. luseboy, I was planning on adding the proportioning valve. I know AZC says to use it and I have the one that they sell. I just didnt' install it b/c I don't have the proper tools (flaring tool and tubing bender) and it was going to be difficult to replace the entire rear brake line. I figured I'd see if there was actually a bias issue first. There is, but I think rather than going through the hassle of using the prop valve I have and replacing the rear line, I'd rather get the Wilwood unit I mentioned above. The reason I wasn't too sure about that option is because I seem to recall someone on here saying not to remove the stock proportioning valve. But I don't see why it would be a problem.

As stated in the title my rear brakes are locking up before the fronts. I have a 15/16 master cylinder with the AZC big brake kit. All the hard lines are stock. I'm not sure why my rear brakes would be locking up. I assume that the new discs just lock up with less pressure than the old drums. But it could be that the stock proportioning valve is not properly proportioning. After considering the problem and potential solutions I am leaning toward the third option below. I am considering replacing the stock proportioning valve and hope that that fixes it, but I feel like that's probably not the problem and it will probably waste a bunch of my time. Solution two is to install a proportioning valve after the stock valve. After looking at the plumbing this looks like I would have to replace the hard line running to the rear of the car and that would be a royal PITA. Solution three is to delete the existing proportioning valve and switch and replace them with a Wilwood proportioning valve (link below). I realize that I would have to replace a few hard lines, but at least I don't have to run a new hard line to the rear of the car. I would just have to run a few hard lines from the master cylinder to the new valve and from the new valve to the driver side front caliper and to the existing hard lines that go to the rear and to the passenger side front caliper. Can anyone think of a reason that this might not be a good idea? http://wilwood.com/M...temno=260-11179 Here's a picture to help with what I am talking about. The Wilwood valve would replace items 2 and 6.

I'm sure the driver of this car has quite a bit of skill, but I would call those loose belts more than a mean trick. It borders on wreckless endangerment. If something were to happen she might have been thrown out.

Small update: I just bought and installed a momo steering wheel/hub with an NRG quick disconnect. I have the seat mounted as far back as possible. So the added length to the steering column was welcome. Steering Wheel: http://www.amazon.com/Momo-R1908_35L-Leather-Steering-Wheel/dp/B003OC1UDM/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1327979595&sr=1-7 Quick Release: http://www.amazon.com/NRG-Steering-Release-Titanium-Chrome/dp/B0069W7FBU/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1327979716&sr=1-4 I'm having a fuel issue (I think) and since I'm going to be taking the car to the track I'm hoping to kill two birds with one stone. I just orderd a fuel surge tank (aka swirl pot) from Summit. It will be fed by a Carter low pressure high volume pump and the Walbro 255LPH pump will feed fuel from the surge tank to the injectors. Surge Tank: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ABT-ITC305/ I also took the car to an AutoX where it ran pretty strong. But there was an obvious brake bias issue. The rear brakes were locking up before the fronts and causing some handling issues. So also on the agenda is to install a bias adjuster for the rear brakes. If all goes well, I should be able to get this all done in the next few weeks. We'll see what happens.

Well, I never heard back from the local shop after 4 phone calls and an e-mail. Some of my other friends offered other possible places to go to do some fab work locally, but I decided to stop playing machine shop roulette and just bought the ATL unit from Summit.

I've got a kirkey seat bolted to a homade bracket on front that's welded to the original mounts to lean it back a few degrees. In the back I made a 'nut plate' and welded it into the original plate and bolted the seat to it. There is no slider, but I'm 6'4" tall and need all the head room I can get. Also the seat is really easy to take out. I want to get a Racetech seat, but that's going to be a bit of money, so I'm going to wait. Based on my experience (and another recent experience fitting a RaceTech seat into a Camaro) I would suggest getting the seat fitted prior to doing anything final on the interior. It will be a bigger pain if you have to make modifications after you have a finished or semi finished interior. On the other hand if you are not tall, you could probably make do with a set of corbeau seats and brackets and just deal with the 2" or so less head room.

I was somewhat concerned about that as well, but it seems to be a fairly common practice. The pump is mounted on the passenger side firewall just behind the starter.

Don't have one for sale. But I just put this one on my car today. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006PJ2MRE/ref=oh_o01_s00_i01_details I'm also planning this for a quick release once I get the gift cards I redeemed for 10% off from Chase Reward. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0069W7FBU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=A2FBW9O9LR2VL9

24OZ, Not a bad idea. I thought about it, but I figured with the current fuel system plumbing on my car it would be easier to relocate the battery. It fit nicely on the ledge behind the passenger seat. And the seat goes all the way back and reclines (it's a 240SX seat at the moment). It took me about 3 hrs to relocate and rewire the battery, so it's not too bad of a job. I did get an optima battery and I found an aluminum battery tray on the interwebs. The surge tank should mount on the battery tray, so it should be a fairly easy install too (I hope). Ultimately I'm doing this for my car, I just figured I'd throw it out there and see if anyone else was trying to do something similar. JSM, I saw that thread last week after I contacted a local shop. It is pretty similar and depending on what the local shop says (I talked to him a minute ago and he's supposed to be calling me right back) I may contact the guy in the other thread. I'm planning to leave the battery tray in the car and I wanted it to be about a 1L tank. So mine's going to use 4" aluminum tubing and have a 5" base.

Recharge the battery and start the car and check the voltage. You should be getting ~13.5 volts at the battery terminals if it is charging. If not, download a FSM and start trouble shooting the alternator wiring. You can search here to find wiring diagrams.

I'm going to look into having a local shop fab a surge tank to put in the battery compartment. I was wondering if anyone else would be interested. I do not know what the pricing will be yet. Hopefully less than the ATL model that Summit sells. See the picture for what I had in mind. It is basically similar to the ATL model, but shortened to fit in the battery tray. I had to call ATL for the dimensions, but it was just a little too tall. Comments are welcome.

I guess it does make some differnence. If you blow the fuse for one bank, you should be able to run on 3, so I would definitely make the change. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/104480-ms2-injector-connection-question/page__pid__977248?do=findComment&comment=977248

The only issue I see is that you are running the injectors off of the relay board and you have 4 injectors on one fuse and 2 on the other. Probably that won't be a problem, but it would be ideal to make it 3 and 3. Here's the relay board schematic. Top right shows terminals 1,2,3,4 for the injector +12. http://www.bgsoflex.com/mspower/mspower_ShemV1.2.pdf I don't know much about EDIS and the rest is pretty straight forward. One other thing...If you are running lowZ injectors (and maybe even if you aren't) you should look into adding a 220nf capacitor across the H1 terminal in the ECU box. I was having momentary voltage drops to about 6V before I added the cap and that seems to have fixed my problem. I believe I did a brief write up on this in a recent thread.

Sorry. They are the +18 offset. I was looking for something closer to 0, but these seemed to be the most solid bang for the buck option. Maybe one day I'll get a set of CCWs, Forgelines, etc. I had to use a 10mm spacer in the rear because the tires were just rubbing the inside of the wheel well and the shop working on the car had gotten the alignment close enough for the amount of time spent on it.

I have the track pack so I have a lot of adjustability. I managed to buy a set of Enkei RPF1 wheels with the -18 offset and am running 255 width tires. I had to roll the front and rear fenders, but they fit. That being said, I think your best bet is to wait on buying the new wheels until you get the brakes installed and take some measurements and maybe find a wheel with a known offset to see where you need to be. It'll take more time, but hopefully you can avoid some headache.

I'vegot a few updates. Not much earth shattering news. Problems: I had a number of issues that reared their ugly heads after gettingthe car on the road. I've been trying to slay that hydra for a while, but it seems like there are more now than there were a month ago. 1. PositiveVoltage Spike - I was and still am getting a voltage spike to about 21V. Thiswent away when I disconnected the alternator, so I am going to trouble shootthe charging circuit. 2. VoltageDip (Negative Spike) - I was getting a negative voltage spike to about 6V thatwas showing up on my MS data logs. So I borrowed a friends oscilloscope andfound that it was happening almost constantly. I solved this problem (as far asI can tell anyway), by adding a 220nf capacitor on H1 of the megasquirt. Beforedoing that I added a 2 farad stereo capacitor on the 12V supply to the relayboard, but it had absolutely no effect. 3. Hesitation– The car seems to be completely leaning out like the fuel is cut for a splitsecond. The problem seemed to go awayimmediately after I added the capacitor, but then after about 100 miles it wasback. I’m thinking this may be acavitation problem with the tandem fuel pumps. 4. Braking– The rear brakes are locking up before the fronts. I have the track pack brakes from AZC with 6piston front calipers. For some reason therears are locking up first. That madefor an exciting autocross. Upgrades: Ihave a few solutions/upgrades planned for the next month. 1. FuelSystem – I currently have a low pressure Carter pump feeding a Walbro highpressure pump directly. I am not sure,but I think that there may be some cavitation issues with this setup. Or maybe one of the pumps is bad. I had planned to install a fuel surge tankbetween the two, but decided to take care of the million other thingsfirst. Now I’m hoping that doing thiswill help me to solve my lean issue, or at least help me to troubleshoot it alittle better. 2. Brakes– I plan to install a proportioning valve in the rear line. I hope I can adjust out my bias issues. 3. Battery– Since I want to mount the Surge tank in the battery tray I have relocated thebattery to the ledge behind the passenger seat. Once I have all of the kinks worked out I am going to try tofind a local brake dyno for fine tuning and then take the car to a race track(hopefully Road Atlanta). But notnecessarily in that order.

On second thought this may better be described as 'hooning a tank'.

DRIFTING

Sounds like a decent candidate for Lemons or Chump Car. The good thing (or is it the bad thing) about going that route is reliability is probably more important that speed.