zack_280

I have the 6 piston fronts/4 piston rear set from AZC with the wide version 12.2" front rotor and 12.2" rear. Mine are very easy to modulate, but I need to install a proportioning valve since the rears are locking up before the fronts.

A pretzel would be pretty not stiff and brittle...I guess.

I drove the car for about 30 minutes today and logged the whole thing with no noticeable voltage spikes. But I was running the heater and the lights and my battery voltage was dropping to about 11V when the RPMs got below 1500. But that's something I think I can fix. I'll post up a more detailed writeup in a new post later this week or this weekend to help anyone else having this problem. Hopefully S130 will be able to add his solution if he ended up doing something different too.

I installed a 220nF capacitor on H1 and there were no visible voltage spikes on the scope. The weather hasn't been great here, so I didn't drive it tonight, but I'm planning on taking it for a drive tomorrow. Based on the scope it looks like the problem could be solved. Either way it was a definite improvement.

Thanks, Metro. I actually found that thread a while back, but it referenced a deleted thread on how to fix the problem. Looking through it now it looks like the fix is described on the second page. I'll try to get the capacitor installed this evening. My 5V signal to the ignitors is grounded to the same place as MS. The 12V and coils are grounded directly to the head. I'll let you know how it turns out. I will start with the capacitor and see what happens.

99% of the time my car seems to run fine. But every once in a while it stumbles as if the fuel has been cut for a split second. I checked my log file and found voltage spikes high to ~21V and low to ~6V. Here is a screen print from my log file. Then I connected an oscilloscope to the relay board 12V and ground and got the following graph. Note that the spikes were somewhat erratic and it took a few tries to capture the spikes on the screen. I spoke to Matt Cramer via e-mail and he suggested grounding the relay board to the engine block. I plan to do that tomorrow, but I have pretty low expectations for that solving anything. I was hoping to maybe get a bit of wisdom here between now and then. System Info: My ground circuit is as follows: Battery->Engine->Ground Plate->Everything else. All components are grounded directly to a steel ground plate bolted to the firewall with the exception of the spark plugs (grounded through the head). The cable that connects the battery to the engine and engine to ground is a 1/0 cable. I am running Low Z injectors using PWM and a coil per plug setup using the IGN-1A 'smart' coils from DIY Autotune. I disconnected the charging circuit and there was no noticeable affect on the voltage signal.

Let's hypothetically say you wanted your Z in a barn 50 feet from your house and you had an unused barn 200 feet from your house. You have the space near your house, but not enough money to build a new barn. Those long walks to the existing barn where your Z currently resides are hard on your old bones in the cold Montana winters. Maybe you should just sell the Z...If only there was another way! After procrastinating for a while you peruse hybridz.org when you find this thread. There is another way! You could use the small budget you have and the knowledge from this thread to move the barn to 50' away from your house. Unfortunately you'll probably have to wait until late spring or next summer. Z related enough for you?

I guess either get a lot of friends or be smart. http://www.theforgottentechnology.com/newpage2

I got some adapters from Summitracing. You can just search for NPT to metric adapter and you should be able to filter for what you are looking for.

I think you can get some of the thread size info in this thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95507-thermostat-housing-sensor-questions/page__p__898377__hl__%2Bthermostat+%2Bthread+%2Bsize__fromsearch__1?do=findComment&comment=898377

The thread size for the water temperature fan switch in the original post is 1/4"NPT. I was recently trying to figure this out. I didn't find the answer here, so I bought the adapter and it worked. Hopefully this will help anyone else searching. *edit: Corrected thread size.

I added a 10k resistor in series with the VR input. As somewhat recommended in the link below (very useful if you are getting lost sync or have noise issues). The rev seemed a little lumpy, but I didn't really have time to work it out and the car was only running for about 5 seconds. I've got a bit more to do on the car tonight. Hopefully this will get it, but I'll post up if I have to make any changes once I actually have time to test it a bit. http://www.bgsoflex.com/megameet2008/megameet2008_gnding.pdf Here a few keywords in case someone else is searching. If this thread doesn't help, the PDF should. Breakup, Break-up, reset.

A few more things. I am still having the same issue with the alternator/water pump belt off and the crank signal wires routed away from all other wiring. So that rules out the alternator as a source of noise.

I'm having a problem with my crank sensor signal droppingout right at 25xx RPMs. Here is some detail on my setup. · Injectors - LoZ Injectors using peak and hold output from MS · Ignition – Coil Per Plug using IGN-1A 'smart' coils. These coils have a built-in ignitor. · 12V Grounding - I have a 1/0 cable from the battery '-' to the starter/block. I have another 1/0 from the starter/block to steel plate mounted to the firewall. All other ground connections are made at the steel plate. The only exception is the round for the spark plugs which is made up on the cylinder head. · ECU Grounding - All ECU grounds are run back to the relay board ground terminals. This includes all of the sensors and the 5V grounds from the IGN-1A coils. · Wiring - I ran the wires in 2 bundles based on the location of the items being wired. Bundle 1: This bundle goes to the driver side of the engine and contains the Injectors, TPS, IAT, and O2. Bundle 2: This bundle goes to the passenger side of the engine and contains the coils, CHTS(water temp for MSII), and Crank sensor. In addition all of the wiring is run through the same hole in the firewall, but the body harness, fuel pump, and fan are separated from MS. · Spark Plug Wires - Magnecor. The wires are about 10" long. I mounted the coils on the valve cover on the passenger side of the motor. The coil wiring does get pretty close to the plug wires, but the plug wires are not looped over the harness. I have checked all of the ground wiring and everything seems to be solid and is wired as described above. Other than the ecu killing the revs at 2500 RPM, the car starts and runs pretty good. Here is a link to the IGN-1A coils. http://www.diyautotu...coil-p-394.html Here is a screen shot of my datalog. Notice how all of the signals are relatively constant except for the RPM signal. Any guidance would be much appreciated.

Suggest some reading material. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=how+to+rebuild+your+nissan&x=0&y=0

Luckily when I bought mine it had two bungees. I called them the redundant battery securing system. I was very comforted to know that the owner had gone the extra mile in something so simple. It definitely reassured me that the rest of the car was properly sorted.

Thanks for the support guys. Well, I managed to get all of the air out of the engine cooling passages (I think). I tried burping it with the cap off of the radiator and also with a relief valve in the top radiator hose, but apparently that didn't work since it was still running hot. I had to take the thermostat out and start it. That immediately dropped the level in the radiator and the car started running at about 185 on my MS display (with a 180 degree thermostat installed). I drove it around a bit and it sounds like I'm getting some rubbing from the rear wheels/tires when I run over the deeper potholes. I am also getting a breakup of the crank sensor signal when I get to ~2600RPM. I'm going to try to troubleshoot those things today. There are a few issues left at this point (including tuning), but it looks like the car is starting and running pretty well.

The car is now running on Megasquirt. Once I figured out a few minor wiring issues I cranked it for about 15seconds and it started up. That was on Tuesday. I've been cleaning things up a bit and fixing some minor issues in the mean time and I still need to clean the garage and clean up the wiring. I have yet to take it out on the road, but I plan to do that tomorrow. I'm going to take it to an alignment shop in the morning and hopefully I'll be able to drive it there rather than trailer it there. Here are a few pics I took this evening after washing the car. I'm probably going to have to raise the front up about 0.5" to 1", but it turns until the tire hits the T/C arm without rubbing. That's with Enkei 17X9.5 and Kumho 255 wide tires. I expected to have to roll the fenders, but so far everything is looking pretty good.

Cranked it for about 10 seconds and it fired right up! Unfortunately I had a radiator hose too close to the alternator fan and made a big mess. I didn't notice this for a while, but the temp started going up after it ran for about 10 minutes or so and then I let it get to 215 before shutting it off. Unfortunately by that time it might have been out of water for a while. Hopefully nothing got too hot. But at least it's running on the new ECU. It was idling fairly steadily at about 700RPMs.

OK. I figured out the spark C issue. I took the ECU apart and tested the connection from the 15pin connector to the PAD strip and got an open circuit on pin 11. Then I looked a little closer and noticed that it the spark C output was wired to the wrong pad. It is actually wired to Pin 3. So now I just have to swap the wire in my 15 pin connector harness and plug everything back in and it should work...This saga will have to continue tomorrow...

Gave it a try and it worked for Spark A and Spark B, but no Spark C. With the ECU powered up I was getting ~.2V on Spark A and B and 1.5V on Spark C. I also tried it on my Stimulator and was not getting a Spark C output. Then tried it on the car with the same results. The good news is that A and B were giving me the correct RPM signal on the timing light. On top of the spark issues I left the ACC switch on last night and my car battery died. On top of that I need a 9V battery for the stim board and the only 9V battery in my house seems to be dying.

Thanks, Matt. I'll give it a try this evening. Hopefully I didn't fry my #1 coil.

One thing I left out...While cranking I was checking for spark on the #1 coil and was reading 1140 RPM on my timing light tach. The ECU showed 190RPM. The timing light shoudl be reading 190x2=380. For some reason I am getting 190X6=1140. In case you missed it in the post above, I think my problem is only going to exist at initial power up of the ecu.

Thanks cygnusx1. I used your Megasquirt fuel/air/spark maps as a starting point for mine. Unfortunately I did not get the car started this weekend. Had a few problems with the relay board, then the starter died, then I found out I had an igntion output problem. Here is a link to my ignition problem post. Hopefully I'll be able to resolve this early this week and drive the car by next weekend. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/102261-coil-per-plug-ignition-problems/

I am running MS2 on a V3.57 Board I bought from DIY Autotune. I also bought 6 IGN-1A 'race' coils that are wired up in a wasted spark configuration. These are smart coils. They work similar to LSx coils. They charge when given 5V from the ECU and discharge when dropped to 0V. Matt Cramer set up the Spark outputs as follows. Spark A: DB37/Pin 36 Spark B: DB15/Pin 10 Spark C: DB15/Pin 11 I bought the JimStim board and everything appears to work as expected under simulation. However as soon as I power the board up when in the car I am getting 5V (actually like 4.6V) on Spark A and Spark C. The coils do not like this. When I disconnected all but Cylinder 1 to test for spark the coil started sizzling b/c it is trying to charge non-stop. Why are two of my spark outputs going high when powered up? I believe that they will operate correctly under cranking and running conditions since they appear to work fine on the simulater, but I don't think (and don't plan to try) I can get to that point without blowing the fuse powering the coils. Here are my settings from Megasquirt. Ignition Options More Ignition Options