Nigel

Uh, look up two posts from yours... Nigel

This is something that I suggested in the other thread (post #26)... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=129000&page=2 It didn't cure the the problem for me because I have an extreme case, but it certainly helped. The only downside is that with the Greedy Type RS BOV that I have, it makes this gawd awful squealing noise every time the valve cracks open, and with the single spring, this occurs between -13 and -15 inHg, which is right in the cruising range. So as I'm driving along, I keep hearing this high pitched EEEEEEEEEEE!!!! sound. I don't know which is worse, the chirping from the turbo surging or the squealing from the BOV! Nigel '73 240ZT

Looks to be about the same size as mine: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109445 I picked that size because it made installation easy, and longer tubes aren't going to help much anyway. $75? Man, that's half of what I paid for mine 2 years ago. Amazing! Nigel '73 240ZT

I didn't have any problems with fluttering (chirping noise, bouncing boost gauge, bucking, running too rich) until after I installed my intercooler. I guess it has to do with the added volume of the intercooler. Part throttle boost is impossible now. It starts fluttering badly if I try to hold a steady boost level, and I either have to back right off, or put my foot into it. There's nothing in between. In fact, now it will start to flutter before I even get positive manifold pressure. You can hear it clearly in the video linked below. Mine is the second car that drives by. I put my foot into it as I approached the camera, boosting to maybe 7 or 8 psi, and then backed off slightly just as I reached the camera... Nigel '73 240ZT

Just because the hoses "look" ok, and the clamps may be tight, the rubber can be so old and dried out that it no longer seals on the hose nipple... Nigel '73 240ZT

As I mentioned earlier, I'm running the Z31 CV's with the caps installed. But I'm not running the MM adapters. I still haven't been able to get dimensions on mine yet though... Nigel

Did you try to search? It took me 10 seconds to find this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=127069&highlight=MOTORCYCLE+ITB BTW, this should be in the fuel delivery forum... Nigel '73 240ZT

You took that seriously?

Many modern cars use a returnless system, but I believe that's to combat the evaporative emissions issues due to returning hot fuel to the tank. Regardless, I don't see how this would help keep the fuel cooler. If anything, I would think that it would make fuel temps worse since the fuel is trapped. At least if it circulates, it has a chance to be cooled. You'd also end up with a fixed pressure system (not boost referenced), because the regulator would be back at the tank, and a vacuum line that long would be ineffective. Not the end of the world, but it could complicate tuning. I was thinking of something along the lines of a fuel rail cooler. Make a fuel rail with two lines though it, one for the fuel, and the other to pump water through, with it's own separate cooler, and a small water pump. You could use a small reservoir to allow for some expansion that the pump would feed off of. Nigel

Nigel White Toronto, Ontario, Canada '73 240Z

I'm having a big problem with this right now. When I start out in the morning, after the coolant temp stabilizes, my AFR's are around 13.5 to 1. The longer the engine runs for, and the lower my fuel tank gets, the leaner the AFR. I used to think that it was due to the placement of the air temp sensor in the engine bay resulting in an exaggerated air temp value that would cause the ECU to lean out the mixture. However, I moved the air temp sensor to the outlet of my intercooler, and only saw a slight improvement. It didn't occur to me until recently that it might be a fuel temperature issue. Last night I got to put that theory to the test. I got stuck in stop and go traffic for 40 minutes with a 1/4 tank of gas, and I watched my AFR's climb up to 16.5 to 1! Everything else was constant though (I just realized that I may not have looked at the fuel pressure gauge). The intake air temps matched ambient (30C), and coolant temps remained between 80 and 90C. So, the injectors were still firing for the same duration as they were when the AFR was 13.5 to 1 in the morning, but I was now seeing 16.5 to 1 on the gauge. When I arrived at my destination, I touched the fittings on my sump and they were almost too hot to touch, as was the tank itself. I have a 255lph pump, and with a 1/4 of a tank, that means that the fuel is being completely circulated every 3.5 minutes! There's no way it's going to have a chance to cool down at that rate, since it's doing nothing but pick up heat as it goes through the pump, along the transmission tunnel where it's near the exhaust, through the hot engine bay and back again. I realize now that I inadvertently made thing even worse at the beginning of this year by moving the return line from the top of the tank to the second fitting on my sump. No wonder my poor fuel pump is screaming by the end of a long drive! So, my plan is to insulate the fuel lines in the transmission tunnel, put heat shields around the exhaust, and space permitting, install coolers on both the feed and return lines. Nigel '73 240ZT

Do you know for sure that the clutch in the '81 was factory original? The 225mm clutch comes in 2 depths. According to my '73 service manual, the diaphragm spring to flywheel height is between 43 to 45 mm. The '82 service manual has a spec of 33 to 35 mm. The 240mm clutch has a spec of 37.5 to 39.5 mm. So that would mean that the 240Z 225 mm clutch would have the shortest sleeve, followed by the 240mm clutch sleeve, and the 280ZX 225mm clutch sleeve would be the longest. Here's a link to a page that shows the 280ZX 225mm and 240mm sleeves... http://www.forgeracing.com/240z_race_car/ Perhaps the '81 ZX had an early Z clutch installed which would have a sleeve too short to operate the new clutch you bought? What are the measurements that you took of the two clutches? Nigel '73 240ZT

Like I said, maybe it was used with an on-center T4 turbine. Not sure how much extra clearance they provide though... Nigel

Yeah, that definitely needs to be moved up and back. Here's a couple of shots of a stock turbo next to my T3/T04B... I think most people with hybrid turbos are using the T04E compressor, which is even bigger! I don't want to have to bash my fender in, or rotate the engine to make this thing fit. Plus the turbine looks like it's pretty much touching the brake warning switch. The T04 turbine would never fit. In either case, the brake switch would have to be removed. Maybe this header was designed for an on-center T04 turbine? As for an equal length header, others have proven it can be done, but there's no way that the turbo is going be located anywhere close to the stock position. Regardless, it looks like there's room to move the flange to a more suitable location... Nigel

All things considered, that header looks like a pretty decent design. The only thing I would think might be worth while changing would be to have the wastegate tube exit from the bottom of the collector rather than from the side so that the exhaust from the number six runner doesn't have to do a near 180 deg turn... Nigel

Which throwout bearing sleeve and clutch (for what year and model) are you using? The sleeves are different lengths (3 lengths that I'm aware of) and it has to match the clutch. Nigel '73 240ZT

I'm not sure what exactly you're looking for, but these guys had the best prices and selection of silicon hosing back when I did my intercooler (they have silicon heater hose too)... http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php?maincat=33 Nigel '73 240ZT

I don't want to turn this into a political thread, so let me just say that we're catching up... Nigel

It's a Canadian car! If it's survived this long up here, a few minutes in the surf ain't nuthing to worry about. Regular oil sprays keep the rust monster away... Nigel '73 240ZT

There's been an ongoing discussion about having a turbo header mass produced in the Group Buy forum for about as long as this post has been around: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132994 Nigel '73 240ZT

Well, after seeing the aftermath pictures of a few flywheels that have grenaded after lightening, I'm not disappointed that the shop that did mine didn't try to go further... Nigel

I don't know if you had a look at my Z on Sunday, but I'm using a 35mm freeze plug to block off the distributor hole. Simple and cheap! I've had that in there for 7 years with no problems. The bearing sleeve for the shaft is just above the crank and keeps the shaft from going anywhere. There's no need for any additional support where the distributor used to be. Nigel '73 240ZT

Here's a picture of mine... This brought it down to around 17lbs as I recall... Nigel '73 240ZT

Z31 Clutch LSD... Nigel

Black shaft with green cv housings. I'll e-mail my friend and see if he still has the cad drawings... Nigel