Nigel

I think that's because what you are looking at in those pictures (which are rb-r's by the way) is a 17x9.5 -19 rim and not 17x9 -13. Once you get past a certain width, I defy anyone to actually tell the difference between the rb and the rb-r's. Just look at the pictures in junglist's post. I'll bet if he hadn't pointed out that they were different, nobody would have ever noticed. (why can't I turn off the bold and italics?) Nigel

What's wrong with the stock heater? Mine works great. With the heat on full, and the fan (original by the way) at max, it's uncomfortable to hold my hands in front of the vents. Like anything else on a 40 year old car, you have to make sure the whole system is in proper working condition. If the flapper doors or the heater valve doesn't open and close properly, or the core is all clogged up, then of course the heat will be inadequate. But there's nothing fundamentally wrong with the design. Nigel '73 240ZT

Sorry, I don't want to threadjack, but what size tires do you have on the rear, and have you had any rubbing issues? Nigel '73 240ZT

The wide part should be towards the front. I had no problem distinguishing between the left and right flares for the front, but I found that it was really difficult to tell the difference between the left and right side rear flares when just holding them in front of me. However, when I tried both flares on the same side of the car, with them properly clamped in place, it quickly became obvious which side was which. Nigel '73 240ZT

Yes, use double flares just like in that video link I posted. Nigel

Why not? Nigel '73 240ZT

An industrial Z! Very creative, and far, far better executed than many of the attempts I've seen at custom body work. Nigel

The half way point on the Hi Boost knob is 15psi with the stock 280ZX internal wastegate actuator, so if the adjustment is linear, then in theory it should be able to go to at least 30 psi (I believe the pressure sensor has a range up to 50psi). But like sq-creations indicated, it has a lot to do with the wastegate actuator. Nigel '73 240ZT

It's not interference with the ID of the rims that's a concern, because as I already pointed out, these calipers will fit within the diameter of a 14" rim. Interference with the hub and spokes is what you have to watch out for. If I have time this weekend, I'll see if I can take some meaningful measurements so somebody with the bigger calipers can determine if they'll clear. Nigel '73 240ZT

I have the Toyota caliper and vented rotor setup in the pictures below. The Rota 17x9's clear those calipers with no problems. The stock 14" steel rims (seen in the pictures) even cleared the calipers. Nigel '73 240ZT

That video only shows how to do a single flare. Brake lines require a double flare (the flare is folded back in on itself). You want to find instructions specific to making this type of flare, such as this... http:// Make sure you do a bunch of trial flares so that your very comfortable with the procedure, otherwise you're going to be fighting with lots of leaks. Nigel '73 240ZT

OK, I found it. As I suspected, ATP Turbo sells it: http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-HSG-043&Category_Code=GTH Unfortunately, it only comes in a T25 housing That sucks! Maybe if enough people ask, ATP will make a T3 version. Or, does anybody know of another vendor who makes a T3 version? Nigel '73 240ZT

Where did you find that? I saw a similar piece in the book Maximum Boost, that looked like the picture jacob80 posted, but it was actually cast, and not welded. I think this is a brilliant idea, but I could never find a vendor. Having an external wastegate flange cast into the turbine housing would really simplify installation and I think flow very well, possibly even better than what one could come up with for a custom header. A lot of the custom manifolds I've seen have the external wastegate plumbing doing 180 deg turns from the direction of flow because of a lack of space. My only concern is will it clear the intake on an L28? Nigel '73 240ZT

I mounted my adjustable proportioning valve in the same location as the stock valve on '73 and later Z's, which is right on the firewall, next to the brake booster (NOT at the rear of the car like so many people mistakenly claim!). You can see mine in the picture below. It's a little more involved to install an adj. prop valve in '73 and later Z's because the valve uses pressure to the front, right caliper to modulate pressure to the rear brakes. So, you can't just gut the valve, you have to remove it and then splice the gap that now exists in the front brake line (I just made a whole new line). The adj. valve can go in the gap in the rear line. Nigel '73 240ZT

Sorry for the delay in posting. I didn't get an e-mail notice about your last post. As for updates, I can't think of much new to report. I'm still really happy with the controller, and have absolutely no regrets about buying it. I got in one track day at the Mosport Driver Development road course before I put the car away for the winter. The boost controller worked like a charm. No weird behaviour or hiccups. The only issue I've run into is that the double sided tape isn't holding the controller in place under the dash, so I'm going to have fab up some kind of bracket. I didn't get around to wiring up a remote boost level switch that I talked about in my original post, but I hope to get something wired up before the car goes back on the road this year. I might also wire in an on/off switch for the controller so that I can have "stock" boost in addition to the two adjustable levels. I've found it handy on a few occasions to have the controller off (like letting friends run the 1/4 mile), but it's a pain having to grope around under the dash in order to disconnect the harness. Nigel

I've never compared the specifications given between the FSM's and there may be more differences and/or similarities between the years than I'm aware of. I recall that when I did my friend's '71 Z, I ended up measuring the depth of the MC and then adjusting the pushrod accordingly to leave a bit of a gap. It's worked find for about 6 years now. Nigel '73 240ZT

It seems that very few people are aware that '73 240Z's have the same braking system as the 280Z. So they read the service manuals and assume all 240Z's are the same, or worse, that all Z's are the same, which leads to all sorts of confusion. 1973 and later Z's have a longer brake booster pushrod nose (length from the tip of the pushrod to the hex) than earlier Zs, as is seen in the picture IdahoZ posted. It's a little hard to see the nose of the pushrod on the 240Z drawing, but it's significantly shorter than what you can see on the 280Z drawing, or the picture at the beginning of this thread, which is of the longer pushrod. The pushrod is longer because the MC on '73 and later Zs have a deeper bore where the pushrod makes contact with the MC piston. Earlier 240Z MC's have a much shallower bore, and consequently, a shorter pushrod nose. Therefore, a 280ZX master cylinder will bolt up to a '73 or later Z without requiring much if any adjustment to the push rod (my '73 didn't need any adjustment to the pushrod). If you put a later MC on an early 240Z booster with the short pushrod nose, you need to unthread the pushrod almost all the way to get the right length. That doesn't leave the pushrod with many threads holding it in, so a much safer solution is to to swap out the pushrod with the later long-nosed version (this is what I did for a friend with a '71 Z). Then, use the dimensions for the 280Z to set the proper length. What year of 240Z MC did you look the part number up for? If it was a '73 240, then it will have the same PN as a 280. If it was from an earlier 240, where did you look up the part number? If it was from an aftermarket book, then they may have just lumped all the Z's together, assuming they are all the same. Nigel '73 240Z

There's a lower alternator bracket that's bolted to the block. There are two bolts that secure the alternator to the bracket. One goes in from the front, and the other from the back. You can see this bracket from the front in the picture below. It's at the left edge of the picture, next to the oil pump. You can see the front bolt hole. The bolts are M8x1.25. The length should be easy enough to figure out. Nigel '73 240ZT

$500 for 6 hours of labour plus materials sounds about right to me. Nigel '73 240ZT

I'm just waiting on a shipping quote to Canada before I commit. Nigel '73 240ZT

The Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 and the Kumho Ecsta XS (KU36) were both listed in that Car and Driver article that I linked to earlier. The Dunlop was 1st, and the Kumho was third. Nigel

Best racing in the world! I love how the direction of the steering wheel appears to have no correlation to the direction of the car. Nigel '73 240ZT

205 40 17's are 1.5" smaller in diameter than the oem tire. It always looks silly to me when a car has tires with an undersized diameter. Plus, a smaller diameter tire will run hotter and have a lower traction limit. Not to mention that the speedometer will be off. A 205 50 17's would be a more appropriate size. 225 45 17's and 255 40 17's will also maintain the stock diameter. Nigel '73 240ZT

Car and Driver did a comprehensive comparison of 9 performance tires last year. http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/comparisons/09q2/tire_test_nine_affordable_summer_tires_take_on_the_michelin_ps2-comparison_tests I'm going to be getting the 2nd place Hankook Ventus V12 Evo's. Their overall performance is close enough to the first place Dunlop Direzza's, but for significantly less money. I had the Falken Azenis RT-615 tires before, and I'd have to agree with the assessment in the article. They performed well in the dry, but tended to lock up easy under breaking, and were just plain frightening on wet roads. It's amusing to note that the Ling Long's dry autocross time was worse than the top three tires in the wet!!! Nigel '73 240ZT

Stay away from Showcars... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113366&highlight=showcar Nigel '73 240ZT