Nigel

I'd like to do the Z32 swap, but I could easily see it running into the $1500 range by the time it was done (adapter+trans+seals & gasket+driveshaft+turbo downpipe+misc). So, I'm doing the SX swap instead. I'm working on a detailed write-up of this install. There's a lot of missing, vague and unverified info out there on this swap, so I've been documenting my progress every step of the way. I'm almost done. When it's complete I'll post the write-up here on Hybridz. But in the mean time, if you decide to go this route, you can check out my growing photo album of the swap on my motortopia.com page. There are comments for almost every picture, so don't miss those. Click the picture for the link... BTW, everybody says that all of the SX transmissions are the same, but this does not appear to be true. The S14 SX gearbox has wider gears, according to measurements that I've found posted here on Hybridz, than the S13, plus it has a dual cone syncro on 2nd gear. The S13 gears are still wider than the 280ZX gears, but if you can find an S14 box, that should be your first choice. Nigel '73 240ZT

The 280ZX is NOT a one wire alternator! I had a quick read through that link, and I don't know where you got the impression that it is. The field and sense wires (the white T connector) have to be connected for the alternator to operate correctly. One wire alternators are ok for carburated applications, but I don't know that they're such a good idea on FI engines. You need a good, stable voltage for FI to operate correctly. Besides, I don't see what the big deal is about connecting two extra wires? Nigel '73 240ZT

I can see that working for a solid rear because the whole axle would try to rotate counter to the force applied by the pinion gear to the ring. But with an independent rear suspension, I think all it would do is try to is rotate the differential itself. No vertical force can be transfered through the half shaft joints. Nigel '73 240ZT

Technically, isn't that just sump? A surge tank is a small, separate tank that's fed by a low pressure pump, and then the EFI pump feeds off the bottom of the surge tank. You can buy premade sumps from summitracing.com. There used to be someone on here who was making really nice low profile (you don't want the bottom of the fuel tank to be too low!) sumps specifically for 240's. I don't know if he's still making them though. I have one on my Z... Nigel

I don't know... this setup requires 20 fasteners to bolt one axle in place! And for $900, I'd want to know for sure that they are significantly stronger than the 300ZXT units. Nigel

Not necessarily... That nut only keeps 1/2 gears and rev/5 "tight". The 1/2 gears are also kept tight by the interference fit of the mainshaft into the large bearing in the center plate. So, unless the mainshaft moves forward, there will be no slop in the 1/2 gears, even if the mainshaft nut comes loose. Here's a picture of the reverse and fifth gear assembly: Here's a picture of the first through fourth gear assembly (1st is the gear furthest to the right): Nigel '73 240ZT

I'm betting the big mainshaft nut has backed off and is allowing some fore/aft movement of 5th gear on shaft. Consequently, you can't move the selector far enough to actually engage the gear properly to begin with, and when you decellerate, the helical cut gears push the gear on the mainshaft back and out of engagement. This is going by memory of the 5th gear assembly. I might have a couple of minutes after work to check a transmission I have apart to see if what I said is true. Nigel '73 240ZT

Hey Tony! Thanks for taking those measurements! So, this is interesting... Here's some measurements that were posted in another thread (http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105983): 71B gearbox (240Z/280ZX I think) Bearing Widths (Gear/Counter mm/Main mm): Input/18/18.5 3/18/18 2/18/16 1/22/18 71C gearbox (S14 SR20) Bearing Widths (Gear/Counter mm/Main mm): Input/20/24.5 3/21/21 2/20.5/20.5 1/23/20.5 Here are the widths for the 71C box measured by Tony: 71C gearbox (S13) Bearing Widths (Gear/Counter mm/Main mm): Input/18.3/20.3 3/18.3/18.3 2/18.3/18.3 1/18.3/18.3 (Tony: I assume you weren't able to get a good measurement on the counter shaft 1st gear since that would make it narrower than a B box) Even taking into account some measurement error, it looks like the S14/SR20 gears are wider. So much for the myth that all of the 71C boxes are the same (with the exception of the ratios). Nigel '73 240ZT

That's no gaurantee that they're working now Cold oil is thicker and therefore builds more pressure, so this is not unusual. Sounds like a good start. Good luck, and let us know how it turns out... Nigel '73 240ZT

Do you have the OEM oil pressure gauge and sending unit? How do you know what you're reading is accurate? Perhaps you should try an aftermarket gauge and sender to confirm... Nigel '73 240ZT

Have you looked in the turbo/supercharger sub forum yet? Most of your turbo questions can likely be answered there. In fact, there's a sticky... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=84860 Nigel '73 240ZT

Ok guys, check this out! Below is a 10,000 RPM CABLE DRIVEN tachometer out of a Japanese race car that was imported to North America. Whitehead Performance in Toronto, ON, inherited it. Lots of very unique features. I have more pictures which I'll try to post later. Nigel '73 240ZT

Yeah, you're right. I like how it has more of a fastback look with a long hood and more vacuum formed lines like the original Z , and not like a bloated bubble car. But, I'll bet we get the other style of course Nigel '73 240ZT

Like Tony suggested, I'm thinking it's the oil cooler... Nigel

The silver car and the one below look like the same car to me. Just different lighting and angle (ok, so there are some minor differences, but overall, they're very close). How about when the choice is heavy and ugly vs light and ugly?

Actually, according to Road & Track, the new 370Z will be 200lbs lighter (3010lbs total) and 6.5" shorter. That a significant jump in the right direction. Nigel '73 240ZT

So, did you actually test and verify this? My Z runs cool too (I think I posted about this at some point), but I have a hose going from the lower thermostat housing, through the turbo, and into the return line for the heater core. Nigel '73 240ZT

After I installed my WB02 gauge, I hardly ever look at my EGT gauge anymore. The only time I really pay much attention to it is when I'm letting the engine cool down (I typically wait until the temp drops below 1,000F IIRC before I shut it off), or to keep an eye on it for excessively high temps. It's somewhat helpful for ignition timing, but as for Air/Fuel tuning, the WB02 can't be beat. How does it not give an accurate reading of the load on the engine??? Maybe they're right, but I'd really like somebody to educate me as to why. The further you put the probe from the engine, the greater the heat loss, especially if it's after a turbo, and therefore, less accurate. I'd be worried that you'd have a false sense of security thinking that the temps are ok, but if you've lost a few hundred degrees (I've read that under certain conditions, there can be as much as a 500deg F difference before and after the turbo!) by the time it reaches the probe, you could be in trouble. The real question is what do you hope to get from the installation of an EGT gauge. I've had one in my Z for 7 years, and I like I said, I hardly ever look at it. The values are open to a lot of interpretation, and it's very difficult to compare from one engine to another, particularly if the probes are mounted in different locations. To get the most from an egt gauge, it would be best to have a probe for each cylinder to watch for differences between cylinders. However, for the average user, their best use is as a safety warning against excessive temps. But then, what is excessive? As for the probe affecting flow into the turbo, the probe is quite small, so it's not going to have any impact. Also, I've yet to hear of one breaking off. Unless you buy a really crappy quality one, the odds of a stainless probe breaking are very remote. Nigel '73 240ZT

Something screwy must be going on because I know of several people, including myself who have successfully installed 300ZX Turbo axles into 240Z's. This is without shortening the shafts, other than grinding a bit off the end for extra clearance, or any other modifications, other than flipping the cages. It's a tight fit at full droop, but they go in with enough room to spare. If you're an inch out, then either you've got the wrong shafts, or the stub axle adapters are too long. Nigel '73 240ZT

Hey Tony! Did you ever get a chance to take those measurements? Nigel

My understanding is that because you'll get a big temperature drop after the turbo, you're not going to see the true peak temperature. After doing a lot of reading on the subject, I settled on placing mine just before the turbo. This is on an L6 with short exhaust runners mind you. If you have a tubular header with long runners, then closer to the head, near a cylinder that may be known to run hotter might be better. Nigel

Yep!

This is something I posted earlier... Nigel

I'm sorry to hear that Jerry! Now I don't feel so bad about bashing my thumb with a hammer yesterday... Nigel

FYI, you don't need to adjust the rod out on a '73 Z. Nissan switched to the later style booster that year, and it already has the longer nosed rod. Nigel '73 240ZT