Nigel

Nigel '73 240ZT

I had a T04B 60-1 compressor with a Stage 3 T3 turbine. I had lots of problems with surge after I installed an intercooler and turned up the boost. It worked fine at full throttle, full boost (good for the dragstrip), but it was miserable everywhere else. Definitely not good for a road course. HB28ZT is also running a similar turbo to mine with a 60-1 compressor and he too has problems with surge (http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=129000). I think that the 60-1 just runs too close to the surge line for our engines. I took my turbo to a local turbo builder (Herman at Cherry Turbo's in St. Thomas, Ontario - I highly recommend him for those near by), and he switched the 60-1 out for a 50 trim (but kept it in the B series housing so I wouldn't need to run a spacer). Night and day difference! I don't have any dyno figures to show if it's making more power, but improved drive-ability was my primary goal, and it feels like a whole new car now. No surge at all. The T04E 60 Trim looks like it will have the same problems as the T04B 60-1, and based on that, I'd personally stay away from it. Nigel '73 240ZT

That is pretty funny... you removed the Heads Up Display and placed it on some feathers? Probably a good idea for such a delicate instrument. Seriously, I'm not trying to be mean or to pick on you, but as Yasin already pointed out, you need to put more effort into your writing on this forum (Hybridz rule #5). Nobody is expecting college level essays, but you should at least spell basic words like "hood" and "and" (not "an") properly. Try using Firefox as your browser. It will at least check your spelling as you type. Nigel '73 240ZT

Hold on here... we haven't even solved a basic boost control issue and we're jumping right into programmable ECU's? Yikes! To me, it looks like we're trying to run before we can crawl? The AEM boost controller is pretty basic and should be easy enough to sort out. The stock ECU has no control over the wastegate, so if you're suddenly getting 22psi after cleaning the ECU plugs, then something else coincidental is going on. As others have suggested (many times) and so far appears to have yet been done, start by reconnecting the wastegate actuator directly to the manifold, and verify that it manages the stock boost level ok. If not, then obviously that has to be solved first. If everything checks out ok with that, reconnect the AEM boost controller solenoid, and verify that the vacuum lines are hooked up properly... port 2 connects to the actuator, and port 3 connects to the manifold. The gauge (controller) port also connects to the manifold. There are two settings you have to program on the Tru-Boost... duty cycle (on/off percentage for the solenoid, because that's all that a boost controller does is turn a solenoid on for a certain percentage of time and off for a certain percentage of time, rapidly blocking and unblocking the pressure sent to the wastegate actuator to make it look like less pressure is pushing on it) and spring pressure (boost pressure when the controller starts cycling the solenoid). You do not set it to an actual pressure level like 12psi, so don't enter 12 and expect 12psi of boost. Start with the spring pressure set to one, and a duty cycle of 10% (which means that the pressure to the actuator is blocked 10% of the time), and increase the duty cycle in small increments until you see a pressure level you want. Once you're happy with the boost level, and it's stable, increase the spring pressure as high as you can without getting boost spikes. This will keep the wastegate closed for as long as possible before it has to start regulating boost and will help the turbo spool up quickly. This will always be several psi lower than the boost level you are trying to achieve. If your duty cycle is set to 10% and you're still getting 14psi of boost, then the spring pressure is probably too high. Nigel '73 240ZT

So what exactly happens other than "it goes nuts"? When you floor it, does it start to build boost and then hit a wall where the boost gauge needle starts wildly swinging back and forth, the engine starts jerking, and it just won't build more boost? That would be surge, and judging by the map that wigenOut posted, you'll have it with that compressor. Strange that you say it happens in the upper rpm's though. What happens when you floor in in third from 2500 rpm?

Where else would you get vacuum from other than behind the throttle plate? It's the restriction of the throttle plate that creates the vacuum. A BOV that vents to atmosphere is no different to a recirculating system in this regard. They both need a vacuum source to open, and there's only one place they're going to get it. How much vacuum is required to open the valve varies from one BOV to another. I've tested a 1G Mitsubishi valve, a Subaru Legacy turbo valve and a Greddy Type RS. The Mitsu and the Greddy (depending on how tight you screw it down) both open around 15" and the Legacy valve opens at as little as 5". The real problem that you can run into is that many designs will be open at idle and for part of the cruising range, like the three I mentioned above, and if they're left to vent to atmosphere, at the very least, on a MAP based system, this means that unfiltered air can be sucked in. With a volumetric or MAS system, this is unmetered air, which will result in the mixture running lean, although the O2 sensor will compensate somewhat. To get around this, guys that have vent to atmo setups will tighten the spring way down (depending on the design) to try and keep it closed at idle. But this results in the brief discharge you hear, and the other problems you talk about. I added a one-way valve to the discharge of my Greddy BOV to prevent this and allow me to run the spring with minimal compression. I would argue that a recirc system is no better or worse than a vent to atmo system. Like anything, you have to understand the limitation of each and be familiar with the operating design of the BOV you are using.

'77 and '78 280Z's have a completely different tank. Are you sure you don't have the straps from one of those? Nigel

Wait a minute... To summarize, you are saying that with a BOV that vents to atmosphere, once the blow-off valve closes, the compressed air from the turbo has nowhere to go and therefore, it's hard on the turbo and slows it down... However, all else being equal, the exact same thing will happen with a recirculating system. The BOV is still going to close, and when it's closed, the air still has nowhere to go. Recirculating doesn't change that one bit. I will agree that with a volumetric or mass based efi system, recirculating is necessary to prevent the ECU from dumping in fuel for air that doesn't make it to the engine. However, with a MAP based system, this doesn't matter. When you close the throttle, the MAP sensor will instantly see vacuum and cut the fuel. So, with a BOV that vents to atmosphere, the ECU will never know that air was there. Nigel '73 240ZT

Nigel '73 240ZT

I went with the generic Chinese version off ebay from the vendor "alpha-bid". It turned out it was cheaper to buy the four window kit and split it with a friend than to buy two two window kits! The 4 window kit is $160, and the two window kit is $96. The only downside is that you get a 4 window switch pod and 3 single switch pods instead of a 2 switch pod and 1 single switch pod. However, I mounted my switches directly in the center console of my 240, so I didn't need the pods, and you also end up with extra switches for spares! Oh yeah, you do have to be comfortable with electrical work, because the wiring harness does have to be modified. But there's yards and yards of wire to work with. My friend and I have both had our kits installed for about a year, and they've worked great so far. The motors are supposedly made in Japan, so they should be reliable. Also, there apparently is a built in clutch system so the motors don't stall when the windows reach the top and bottom. The caps that cover the hole in the door panel are pretty much flush, and blend in very nicely. I'm 6'7" tall, and I like the fact that my knee doesn't bash into the window crank any more. I just have a few pics so far. I'll see if I can find some time to take more today... Here's one of the 2 window kit: Overall install in the door: Closeup of window crank: Closeup of motor mount: Door panel cap: Wire harness to door using rubber grommets and corrugated plastic wire loom (the wires don't get pinched in this location): Switch location (I need to repaint the switch plate flat black): Nigel '73 240ZT

We need more information to go further. What year Z is this? Is this something new that just started happening? Did you recently acquire the car, and it's always done this? Does it only happen when trying to start the car? Help us out here... Nigel '73 240ZT

I that's not going to fix your problem. There's still something drawing way too much current, meaning you have a short somewhere. If it's on the circuit with the 30 amp fuse, then you will simply blow the 10 amp fuse. However, that will tell you that the short likely is somewhere on that circuit. And that doesn't mean you should leave the 30 amp fuse in there. You should still replace it with the appropriate amperage fuse or it defeats the purpose of having the fuse there in the first place... Nigel '73 240ZT

Not to be an a$$, but this was all explained on page 1 in the very first post... (Ok, except the bit about the ends, but it's pretty much the same principle) Nigel

Did the fork move the throwout bearing properly before you installed the trans? Are you using the original 240Z clutch? Nigel

I think that's a fair assessment if you're not using any kind of boost control other than a direct connection to the actuator. But if you're using a device that blocks the signal, like a solenoid or ball and spring controller then that will change things. Boost level and spool speed are no longer issues. My results were obtained with a Hallman controller (Ball and spring). Unfortunately, I don't have time to elaborate more, but I wanted to throw that in there... Nigel

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I can't remember if I ordered mine from Canadian Tire or bought it on-line from driverfx.ca (prices in Canadian $). Driverfx.ca has some really competative prices and a hugh manufacturers list. But the weird thing about driverfx.ca is that you have to call them if you want to place an order over $200. If you try to submit the order on-line for anything above $200 you get this vague message that there was "a problem" processing your order. Nowhere does it tell you about the $200 cap on the website! So, when you're ready to submit your order on-line, you have to call them and they will temproarily raise the limit. Really stupid. There's also performanceparts.com, which has free shipping in Canada. But there's ~$17US handling fee, and even if the website says they have stock, they may not have stock on the item in Canada and they won't ship it from a US warehouse unless you call them and ask them to send it USPS from the California warehouse. Apparently the California warehouse is the only one that can ship USPS! Other than that, your best bet is just to call around to some local performance shops and see what you can find. Nigel

A converter is not a cure all for a poorly running engine and a missing hatch seal. And yes, a well tuned engine can pass 26 year old emissions standards without one (I’ve seen it done too). But if you can significantly reduce those emissions even further with minimal cost and no performance loss as part of an overall strategy to reduce exhaust fumes by incorporating a converter, then it makes sense to me to take advantage of that. No, a converter is not going to be 100% efficient 100% of the time. But neither is an engine going to be 100% tuned and running in the ideal state to minimize emissions 100% of the time. And you could drive yourself crazy obsessing over every little pinhole leak in your car. Try one out. For $100, it’s not much of a gamble. I’ve had mine in my Z for 6 years and 20,000 miles, and I’ve done track days and probably 200 drag runs and it’s holding up fine so far. If it crapped out tomorrow, I’d gladly shell out another $100 for a replacement. Everyone that I’ve come across who’s tried one has been happy with the results. Nigel

Maybe you're used to it? Smokers don't seem to notice how much cigarette smoke smells or how sick it's making them either. BTW, I'm not trying to imply that YOU are a smoker. I've no idea if you are or not. I'm just trying to make a point. Nigel

That's the one one of my friends is using. It's a nice compact unit. I wish it'd had been available 6 years ago when I installed a converter in my Z. Nigel

He did mention that he is going to install it on the cowl... If you don't want to spend the $35, you could get some 5/16" fuel line rated for fuel injection (don't get regular fuel line, and certainly not nylon!). Then, go to a local industrial supply store that specializes in hydraulics for the fittings. You'll probably need 2 fittings to convert from 5/16" to -4AN. One thing to be aware of is that they will likely refer to the -4AN as 1/4 JIC (Joint Industrial Council). If they're a decent shop, you should be able to bring all your parts and tell them what you want to do, and they'll show you what you need. They likely won't be fancy aluminum fittings, but it'll be a lot cheaper! Nigel

Modern three way converters split nitrogen oxides into nitrogen and oxygen, oxidize carbon monoxide to form carbon dioxide, and oxidize hydrocarbons to also form carbon dioxide and water. With a closed loop system, you can get close to 100% conversion of all three. Nigel

Exactly! All the better a reason to have a converter... Nigel

I'm running one with my L28 turbo and it made a world of difference! You may still be breathing exhaust, but it's a lot less toxic. I don't notice any exhaust odor anymore other than the occasional faint whiff of a rotten egg smell when backing off the gas after a full throttle run. Based on my experience, two of my friends with NA L28's have added cats and they too are very pleased with the results. The converters are so cheap these days, and the power loss is insignificant if any, so it's hard to find a reason not to do it. Mind you, this is not a solution for a badly tuned engine! Oh yeah, and it's better for the environment too, so it's a win-win solution all around! Nigel '73 240ZT

Is this for a fuel injected application? Where do you plan to mount the gauge? BTW, the Jeg's universal kit looks like a good deal at $15 less than the autometer... Nigel '73 240ZT