280Z28

LSX block, lunati crank, carrillo rods, (builder's picking) 8.7:1 pistons. 407ci = 4.155"x3.75", Comp R lifters, L92 heads (want to see what they'll handle before they lift, at which point we look at GM's 6 bolt heads. AirWerks S88 turbo, 48mm ProGate, big I/C :dunno: If we don't hit 2 bar, it'll at least be close. I'm doing the electronics on this one, the build is being left to a professional. I would just break something probably, even though they're "unbreakable" lol..

Lunati crank, Carrillo rods Only a 3.75" stroke. Got some recommendations to use a TR6 (heat range 6), which is common in turbo'd LSx motors, but I'm not sure the guys that suggested it realized that this isn't your average turbo LSx.

I really want to order my plugs before my motor is built because there's a lead time on them (custom parts.. kinda) and my motor is already pushing the deadlines I was trying to meet. I'm using NGK plugs. The company that's modifying them (Optrand) wants a part number so they can run my quotes, which means I have to figure out which NGKs I'm looking at. I want to use their iridium tip, platinum base racing plugs. From everything I can tell so far, my guess is a 9-10 heat range. :dunno: It's an 8.7:1, 407ci LSX block/L92 heads (until I lift them) with 2bars boost that should see 7400rpm. What would you recommend for plugs (in particular heat range, since that's what I can't change later easily)?

So it was clearly covered that the nut comes off with: 1. have someone hold axle(s) in place with bar between a pair of bolts (hammer/breaker) 2. use a 27mm socket on a 1/2" 400+ ft lbs impact wrench Don't even bother trying to do it another way, waste of time. I'll add an easy way to get the flange off the spline. I needed to re-use my flange when I swapped to the R200 LSD because it fit my driveshaft and the one that came on my LSD didn't (or maybe one didn't come on the LSD, I forget). 1) get a small (2"x2" or so works and it's ) 1/4" think piece of steel plate or a 1/2" bolt. don't use a part you need. Don't say I didn't warn you. 2) get an air chisel. if you're using a bolt instead of steel plate, make sure you use a notched chisel. 3) place the plate or bolt against the back side of the flange. squat over the diff and hold back with your feet where it starts to narrow. press (firmly but make sure you will keep your balance if you slip) the air chisel against it, and let that hold it in place, NOT YOUR FINGERS!! Angle the chisel so you're as close to the center of the flange as possible yet still facing "along the shaft" (in the direction you want the flange to go -- off). 4) pull the trigger. let the chisel do the work. use short bursts to make sure it stays on the protective plate/bolt and centered on the flange. let the chisel do the work. the flange will walk off the end in under 5 seconds.

I got my BSEE last year specializing in DSP and communication systems. This is my first year in the Ph.D. program, and my main courses are system theory, adaptive control systems, and combustion engine processes at the grad level. My dissertation work will probably end up being some engine theory project over the level of just an aftermarket ECU. The self tuning starts of heavily as "aided tuning," which is really fine for demonstration purposes. I plan to follow a model of get the thing running ASAP with what I'd certainly call crude software, then add features while verifying that everything still works. I have several years of experience in corporate software development so my concerns lie primarily in the area of interfacing electronics (like the drivers between the ECU and the coils). I'm feeling more comfortable now and I have quite a bit of time to get the rest worked out. Much of the hardware/software core of a system that should run my motor is already finished and the motor won't even be ready until April. The sensors and measurement equipment is "state of the art" in the consumer world, obviously limited by the fact that I'm a single student and not a big company with lots of money. I have a bit of National Instruments hardware, and I'll be using Innovate Motorsports wideband O2 sensors and Optrand spark plugs, all of which is discussed more in my FPGA ECU worklog thread over in the Megasquirt forum (I use it as an aftermarket ECU forum too since we don't have one). I also have some threads on LS2.com discussing details of the electronic throttle body I'm using and the crank/cam position sensors on the LSx motors.

Thanks! I'll definitely be checking this out to make sure, but if this is the case it'd be awesome since it allows flexibility to make sure it looks good while we're protecting the occupants.

Might have to go with the 17x11 rear, 17x9.5 front. :hmm: I wonder how far that would stick out past my ZG flares. That'd be something like the Advan A032R in P315/35ZR17 rear, P275/40ZR17 front.

Time trials are the way I'll go, again not with me driving but that's something I have to deal with or go home. As an example though, in order to do a fun time trial at a drag strip, I'll need a full cage and a parachute due to the times the car should run. I expect a road course would have some similar set of rules I'll be expected to follow? Those are the ones I really have to make sure I meet. There's a heavy focus on gas mileage and drivability improvements in a race motor, which I'll follow with detailed work on reduced emissions levels. I'm also redefining what a driver should expect from presentation of a gauge cluster (available and usable/non-distracting information, etc). New method of boost/traction control on a gear-by-gear basis. Hopefully self tuning of certain things to a level that you won't find anywhere except a top-dollar race shop (think sponsored team). Lots is speculative at this point of course, as it's my research project. I'm currently working through a Ph.D. program with this. I really, really want to have some decent demonstrations of sections ready by the middle or end of next summer.

When I have the chassis for my car built, I want to make sure I meet some set of rules that will allow the car on the track. I'm looking to have a good time, not to race for a competitive season or something. Some things to remember: - My car's primary purpose is to develop/test/demonstrate my new ECU. It's a show car that I can take to the track. Whatever restrictions are placed on the car, they can't restrict what the ECU is able to do. - The motor's able to put down over 1000hp to the wheels. I'd probably have the boost turned down on a road course but not at the drag strip. Drag strip is just because I can - I have medical limitations on my ability to race. I don't want that to stop me from having a fast road course car, and it shouldn't have to. I plan to be the engineer (on the engine/electronics) with someone else driving for any demonstration/tests. As such it will see MANY more shows than track days. I'm not about to let this limit my outlook on the project and how much fun it will be to be involved with it. I do need the setup to be a showstopper though - and it's gotta be allowed at the track at least to do a demo. Sorry for rambling. Since I can't be a racecar driver myself I need some help with what to tell my chassis builder things to cover going into it. Please ask any questions you have. Remember one of my favorite answers though is "I want the car to make a great impression as a demonstrator of my ECU, so I want to go with a setup that leaves people saying 'Holy moley :drool: ' or similar." That's the point of a new product demo afterall. I'll listen to any ideas/suggestions on this aspect! Sam

Single turbo V8, same motor I've been talking about for the past 2 years or something Next summer at the earliest...

Hey y'all. I'm kinda prodding this forum as a general DIY ECU forum since it seems like the best place for such topics. Anyway, I've posted a bit of info over at LS2.com with detailed stuff about the crank/cam sensors and the electronic throttle body (so far). I'll be adding more as I get to it (I'm building a whole ECU so eventually I have to get to everything), or if someone has specific questions I can work on those too. Of course this info is directed towards people experimenting with custom hardware. Sam http://www.ls2.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=103

Feel free to join the Politics section over at LS2.com if you're looking for civilized discussion of politics with a bunch of car guys.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1973-Datsun-240Z-240-Z-Chevy-355-V8-LSD-6-speed_W0QQitemZ170048933873QQihZ007QQcategoryZ6187QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Item #170048933873 Someone on another forum expressed this concern, and I thought y'all might know about it.

If it doesn't work out with Thumper send me a PM.

Got my digital throttle working. It's a 90mm unit from an LS2.

I got mine without valvesprings, then bought the Patriot Gold kit. Intake arrived today... Throttle has a 6 pin connector, now if only I knew what the pins were.

GM's been promising these for a while but they only became available this week. Complete package is $528.95. :crazy: And you get: L76 Intake manifold (should flow very, very well) Fuel rails 8x 40lb injectors 90mm drive-by-wire throttle body Note that this only works on an L92-headed LSx motor. That price is just... omg wow :faint: And these aren't exactly low performance parts... It absolutely astounds me that they were able to do this. http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/1980/products/292472/ Sweet move by GM IMO.

I'm at 360&Spicewood Springs, and I'd like to talk with your friend.

Big difference there between "2004 LS2 GTO" and "2004 LS2 Supercharged GTO." Of course, the engine itself is quite a mod since the '04s came with an LS1 Blown V8's get up and go :yup:

same

Agh I just came here to post that

I run open loop at idle as well.

Airbrushing under the clearcoat. Hood: Fender: B-pillar:

:rotfl: I love even more how y'all are acting like this is normal behavior for adults. :lol:

Crispy Chicken that is hilarious :rotfl: