280Z28

SOMEONE GET THIS ON YOUTUBE Jared and ProStreet are over on LS2, the other forum I'm always at. I have got to see this. BTW, Jared is well known as a jack*** over there...

It looks like Taylor at Mizfit Motorsports will be building my motor. We talked on the phone today and he told me to really consider having LSM Systems Engineering make me a custom billet LSx block. It only adds ~2k to the price of the build (over the Darton sleeved LS2 block), yet offers 7 times the strength of a C5-R block. The oil and cooling systems have been redesigned as well, eliminating the need to switch to a dry sump system in extreme applications. I'm thinking that will be a wise decision. LSM says they can provide the ready-to-assemble custom block in 1 week.

Just gotta keep a cloth in the car plus Rain-X anti-fog.

After you put your system together, I recommend sending it here to protect it: http://www.thermaltechcoatings.com

Haha reminds me of this:

First of all, we're entering this weekend taking care of my brother and his girlfriend after their motorcycle accident a week ago. Jon was wearing full gear, but Stacy was only wearing a helmet. Her arms and one knee got some serious road rash. She seems to be in good spirits at this point at least. Jon's doing ok, just sore. The accident was literally 3 blocks from the house. The paramedics wouldn't let my dad on the scene to see Stacy and see how she was doing (he would have beat the paramedics to the scene, but the fire station was 100ft from where it happened). Apparently the cops were total dip****s to my dad too. My dad is a very reasonable man, ask anyone on here that knows him (several). The cops said they needed to impound the bike and that was the final straw for my dad and he started yelling at them. He ended up getting to take the bike home though. These pictures of Stacy were taken Friday night: "good" arm 1 "good" arm 2 "bad" arm 1 "bad" arm 2 Friday, my other brother (Isaac, 15) was taking the A/C off of one of our parts cars (81 280ZX) that sold to someone locally for $25. While taking the LP connector off, he slipped and cut his hand. 10 stiches later and some wrap and he goes along real nice with Jon's g/f's arms. Pic of Isaac's hand Friday we got a call from my sister saying her b/f was very sick. They were going to wait until monday to see the Dr but his condition was getting worse so they went to the ER yesterday. He was showing signs of severe constipation but not responding to meds, plus he had a fever (the fever is why they went in yesterday instead of waiting until Monday). They were talking about surgery options and took him for a cat scan. The results were horrible. The scan showed tumors in (at least) 2 places with tell-tale signs of testicular cancer. The tumors are on his back (golf ball size), liver, and testicle (large enough to obstruct bowels). This morning he went from San Antonio to M.D.Anderson in Houston for his initial operation (removing one manhoodness). It's a very risky operation at this point because they aren't able to clean him out before operating on the area. The dude is only 27. wtf? This morning we got a call from my sister and she had the brakes go out on her bike while she was riding downhill. She hit a speedbump and ended up running into the garage door and is scraped up. She's in san antonio, now without anyone there with her and is just sobbing. She is having a worse time than anyone her age should be faced with. :(

ETA on the turbo, i/c, wastegate, and BOV 2 weeks. Shop that was going to build my shortblock up and went out of business!! Trying to figure out what to do about that now. It's getting tempting to just have Katech do it.... sure it'll run me an extra few K, but seriously, at least I'll know these things: 1) I'll get the motor (they won't go out of business or leave me hanging) 2) I'll get the motor on the timeframe they tell me up front (and it's a short one, they don't joke around) 3) The motor WILL be built right to take the power I want to give it Trying to decide if the worry-prevention is worth the cost...

A smaller "system" (single or twin) will boost earlier and let off earlier. A bigger "system" will come on later for longer. The idea is to find a system that matches your motor: ie boost is held through your main torque band. If the twin system is coming on earlier than the single system, it means the twin system is smaller in an overall scale. It could just as easily go the other way if you pick a smaller single; the single would spool faster than the twins but let out earlier.

ForcedInductions should be shipping my order next week. They were EXTREMELY helpful and directed me to a new turbo I hadn't even heard of before (AirWerks S88). Ask for Jose and tell them Sam (who placed an order today) sent you.

1) A T66 or T70 would probably be fine for your needs. Contact ForcedInductions, they'll get you better answers on that. 2) You'll be fine either way 3) If properly sized, they'll come on the same 4) External 5) If you want tq, then yes, very much so

Sounds :drool: Video's a bit short though More goodness wanted.

Aside from all the above for making it not stumble, your constrictors right now are your heads and your intake, which aren't optimal for that cam. That DOESN'T explain the stumbling. You should see the car pulling HARD to 5500ish rpm as is.

:yup: And all for $765 shipped for the pair, complete and brand new with the Patriot Gold double spring kit (good to 650 lift) and 2 extra each of intake and exhaust valves and the offset rockers. I wouldn't be touting them so much if they weren't like the cheapest aluminum head available. More in line with this thread: if I was buying SBC heads, I would without a doubt get AFRs.

Ah i missed that you were using an a2w

It's gonna be hard to get an I/C in there if you move the radiator like that. I have some ideas for mine but I get the advantage of not having to consider some street car issues.

These are my first *new* set of heads (last 2 sets were used), so I'm going to have to go ahread and agree with you on that one. Like I was saying before you headed to dinner, these are "cheapie" heads. They came new with valves and rockers still in sealed bags from GM for $525 shipped for the pair! These heads are going to change the way people look at a small block build. I'll have flow number from this set next week, but expect no less than 320cfm @550-600 on the intake from unported factory GM castings, at a price for the assembled pair less than most single heads are bare. Valves are 2.16" intake 1.59" exhaust.

It pains me to see those graphs after being around the LS1's for a while. I bet big block guys feel the same way (or worse) though. I do know you can't go wrong with AFR though.

The cap says xx lbs on it (at least any aftermarket one does). When pressure builds in the radiator to that pressure, it presses a spring in the cap far enough that it allows water to spray out from under the cap to relieve pressure. It's better than your radiator cracking.

Better pics later had to use the celly telly for now Casting number is 12595364 I can't find any references to them online. :dunno:

You definitely don't need A2A and A2W. I'm going to be running a single A2A one and the guys at ForcedInductions.com tell me it'll be fine. Mounting the turbo isn't going to be an easy task. We'll have a solution worked out in a couple months, but cutting/moving things around may be involved.

I have a Howe radiator that works well, but I managed to boil that one over too (I cracked the stock one before) when my fan relay silently cut out on my driving home from work one day.

Bill Buck assures me that won't be a problem. He'll do the motor drop-in for me at little to no extra charge over the chassis work that's the real reason the car's going to him.

S88 :wall: