280Z28

I did see that the Warhawk block (alum) is 128lbs lighter than the GMPP LSX block (iron).

Holy hell those spark plugs are expensive... $1200-1500 (each) to modify a self-provided plug. :faint:

Considering this is my only weapon, not so good at 100yds I can do that group at 17yds though.

We're going to cut into my fenders and floor to run the exhaust (more like... while we're already doing chassis work we'll make provisions for the exhaust). The turbo has a 5" outlet, and I'll probably run dual 3" just inside the struts. The car isn't exactly a street car though.

Strut towers or what? As long as it wouldn't hit the strut itself or interfere with the bolts at the top, the wall can be modified without sacrificing the structural integrity. It's "expensive" ... but not really relative compared to the price of the motor.

The other sensors have been great in many applications, but one of the goals of my project is to be as non-intrusive as possible into the actual mechanics. When I saw these plugs are available I was like :woot: :drool: On my car they'll be part of the live system. This summer I plan to use them for tuning peoples' cars in the Austin area. I have enough extra analog channels in the stuff going in my Z to sample the plugs for all 8 cylinders at 44.1kHz for semi-real-time processing (real time is responses from 0.05-100us, where these will provide control feedback on probably a 0.25s scale). By next summer, Intel's quad-core procs will be shipping (Core2Quad?), so I'll probably pick one of those up for extra analysis ability until I learn enough from the system to narrow down and optimize the algorithms. Next summer the hardcore focus is gas mileage and drivability. I want 30mpg and (relatively) smooth driving from this thing...

I want to know more about that Winter's IRS :hmm: Sounds like a beast.

If not having a place to store it will be a temporary thing, sell it to someone for cheap with paperwork saying you can buy it back for ~5% more than what you sold it for anytime in the next xx months. Basically a loan with your car as collateral. If your price is pretty cheap, it shouldn't be too hard to find someone that's up for that.

Mine is going to be in the car by April so I can work full time next summer on the electronics. Big power isn't my goal for now though. I don't expect to pass 500hp for like a year and a half. The goal for now is driveability and gas mileage - hoping for 25-30mpg.

The Warhawks should be available to "regular" people by the end of the year. I talked with my builder about the advantages of a dry sump, but he said with work the GM blocks shouldn't need one, and the Warhawk is completely redesigned so it won't need one. There's no way you're going to leave that thing NA. Once you go boost, you have to have it :drool: :yum: Then you'll be :bash: yourself because you got the stock LS7 bottom end. :haha: If that's the power you're after (~600hp), why not get a cheap 402 LS2 based motor and a "small" turbo? Wouldn't that run less than the LS7, make the same power, and have better driveability/mileage? I hate that big NA motors are a PITA to drive with the heads/cam packages they need to make big power. I love the fact that my TA drives like a stock car though (baby cam)! Factory LS7 heads are expensive, 4 times the cost of the L92s.

Why the LS7 shortblock? I went with the L92 heads on the end, but if I end up lifting one then I'll get the LS7X heads for the extra head studs. For nearly any application I'd say you have other options than the LS7 stuff, plus your boosted so the "weak" L92 heads should offer plenty (over 320 out of the box for under a grand including Patriot's spring kit). I'm not sure yet. I'm going to stay IRS, but I don't want to go another route (I have an R200 LSD which I'll sell before cranking it past ~700) unless I'm sure it'll take the power (or stands a decent chance to). My motor's being fed by an 88mm turbo with a T6 flange...

I hear they're the only ones selling the block right now. I'd get the prepped 4.125 block from them. Already have my heads at a shop here in town that I'd have do the final assembly.

:drool:

I've gone with a 90mm electronic throttle body so I'll have nice smooth control over throttle response and easy cruise control. I'm also going to find a way to get a couple sets of these: Fiber optic in-cylinder pressure measurement plugs :yum:

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=593143 :hmm: Hope to talk to my builder tomorrow and see if we want to use this block instead of a Darton sleeved LS6 block for my build in January. :drool: Although if he says I won't see any gains in my application, then I'll just go with the cheaper block we already looked at.

The inspection stuff is a must since I require it for work. But here there's everything, and Texans are big on motorsports year-round, so it's the perfect place to get my projects off the ground. Yes, the $200 a/c bill for September for a new 1350sq ft apartment is :faint: but I deal with it :haha:

Three offers that would take me out of state might as well be no offers. Sorry for your loss

From another forum: can you help me answer him? Edit: goodness those were huge pictures. Now linked.

I was mostly questioning things because I'd rather be on the safe side than sorry, so if I've heard that spinning too high was unsafe for stock LS1's, then I'd really really want a good explanation before possibly putting myself at risk. Now I see the explanation that things were changed later, so it's a good thing I questioned whether my motor would really take the higher speeds (since it turned out a 99 is a "bad" one). Not that it matters since it never sees above 4500 anyway. Past that it's just tires spinning unless I'm over the speed limit. Overall just looking out for my fellow Z'ers.

Mine's a 99. I didn't realize they changed them later; I'm using ARP in the new motor anyway so that should be off the mind. I'm curious how much his curve stays up if he ran it to 7k. :hmm:

The valvetrain is fine. Patriot dual springs and trickflow pushrods. It's the rod bolts that are the problem - they're stock and taking a beating with that power level, but they're supposed to hold up as long as I keep the revs down. If 7150 is the limit, sure I'd make 10 more hp to rev to 7000, but that's not really a safety margin before the second big bang

ULISES - I was like some SERIOUS numbers for an LS2, thinking it was stock. :haha: Nice cam that must sound amazing. These motors have some trouble with the stock bottom end at high RPMs. Here's me letting off at 6500 because I don't want to blow it up.

Goodness did y'all miss post 4?

Those look like LS7 numbers, these are L92.