mrparks

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The heat shield that runs 90 degrees from the intake is bolted on, I think they're 12mm. You have to get those off first. Feel around with a 12" extension for the other 12mm intake and exhaust bolts. I don't recall the exact number of bolts.

Required reading

Have you considered peeling the "chrome" off the plastic and recovering it with a foil? There's a product called "Bare metal foil" that scale modelers use to replicate metal surfaces. Local hobby shop should have it, or order some off the internet. Superglue the crack back together, sand it smooth and recover it with foil. They have a black chrome foil that I plan on using on all chrome trim pieces when I get around to doing the interior on my Z.

^Bondo is cheap. They're a good shape. They got the lip in the front, and the top extends up into the top of the fender. Smooth them out, maybe blend it into the fender a little bit, add a vent maybe.

Sort of Z33 flares on a S30 front end. (On a 240sx) It is a little like OTM's "Free Fender Flares" at the top, but more blended into the rest of the fender. The curve coming off the wheel well would be a perfect place for a vent I'd like to see a blended in "spook" chin spoiler, that has been extended out to the sides of flared front fenders. It would look something like this: Which could go well with the back half of the SubtleZ kit.

Pardon me if I'm wrong, but even if that area is ported out, wouldn't the runners still be a restriction?

Would look a lot better with the doors shaved. Black is a lot of work though. I like the look a lot, but as I live in a desert it just isn't a good idea for me.

I think it would look best without the nissan logo on it. Perhaps get the valve cover that says " NISSAN - OHC " and then grind off the lettering, leaving the fins. I did it to mine, it doesn't look too bad even though I did get a little heavy-handed with the grinder. Maybe grind off the fins, too. Would look just like the turbo valve cover without any of that raised lettering. Or leave the NISSAN on it, and grind off everything else. Or just grind off the ISSAN, leaving a N, which looks just like a Z. Your choice.

^You can move the .torrent file where ever you want, but it will download to the location that you specified. Hope that helps. I have the video, and I will help seed it.

OTM, you should have used the orange tube cement. Don't worry about the cancer, it only counts if you live in CA. The blue tube stuff (smells of oranges?) doesn't hold up that great. I also recall one of the Japanese model companies saying that Revell-Monogram made some aspects of that Z smaller to retain the visual appearence of the body while in scale. Whether it's true or not is a matter of debate.

Why not just poke holes through it with a hot needle? That would establish airflow through it, and provide a little resistance. Most cars have a high pressure area between the grille and the radiator, which would lead me to believe that air is not pushed through the radiator fast enough, and what is pushed through becomes trapped in the engine compartment and creates lift. I could be wrong.

Stupid question: Does the electronics involved in this swap differ in any major way from that of a small block chevy?

Assuming this is stick, and that you can weld from the outside of the joint: Take your time with the root pass, burn it in. You'll need to make sure you got the pieces lined up properly, too. Then burn the root pass. After that, do two cover passes over it, making sure you go slow enough that two passes will fill it in. (The black on the picture) Then, you put another set of cover passes over that, making sure you catch the corners. That should take at least 3 passes. Watch the heat build up. This may not be the "right" thing to do, but it's what I would do.

What exactly is meant by "notchy"?

I believe Radioshack may have a USD interface of sorts for that, I could be wrong but I do remember my Dad using one for a old joy stick he had hooked up.

I like it, it's the exact same thing I intend for mine. What are you doing for bumpers?

If you're talking about the 720, the L6 is a little too long by about 2 cylinders. I've seen a few on the internet that have SBC's, and a V6 will also obviously fit. Converting it to or from a 4x4 would be fairly easy, it's a bolt on/off. I was going to convert the truck to that, but I would rather do it to a different vehicle. Tomorrow, I'll take some pictures.

Nice job. How did it effect legroom and/or headroom? These things are important to me.

Is the driver trying to drift or is his turban getting in his eyes? Those rich Arabs have too much money and not enough common sense.

On the car where? I would go by the one on the Driver-side doorplate. There's a date on the bottom that has 01-12 (Months of the year) and then a double-digit date. That is the date the car was made. The model year for that car is date stamped on the plate (When the car was made), plus one. If it's a 280, the date will be '75 (Or, made in '76 through '78 (Made in 77) Hope this helps.

Replaced the wiring harness, which was amazingly easy. The only problem is that the original fuel injection harness in my Z ('77 280z, manual tranmission) had a connector that is shaped like a backwards L, with two wires leading from it. It was hooked in the general area of the ignition area. I can't recall the year of the car that donated the "new" harness. It was also a 280z. The main problem is that the donated harness has a spade connector with a single wire. That is bothering me, for obvious reasons. (Obvious reason being that it it's one of the loose ends that are left) The other "Loose ends" are two female bullet connectors. I have a Nissan 720 pickup ('84, Manual transmission) that I pulled the starter off. It bolted up with no problems. Assuming that this starter is functional, will it work with the L6? Oh, and will the seats out of a '89 240sx fit into the Z? My originals are a little rough. In fact, when I bought the car the previous owner had duct-taped a floor mat over the foam. For $490, I still think it was a good deal.

I have a major problem in my z. It came this way, so don't threaten to shoot me. Judging by the state of the engine (Spark plugs being sooty, bogging under WOT) it's running rich, and for a obvious reason. The entire EFI set up is so screwed up I'm surprised it even ran. In the interior side of the car, I have a lot of loose wires. (Driver side) (Passenger Side) And a horrible, horrible splice. I worked most of the morning getting the fuel hoses worked out. Almost there, except for the metal line on the manifold being defective. So what would be the best way to approach this problem? I'm semi-positive that I have the mechanical part of it down, and the fuel is physically able to get to the engine, but the EFI system wouldn't be able to meter it (Hence the running rich). Is the fuel damper supposed to be in the engine compartment? (I'm only asking because it was, and I didn't see anything like that in the Haynes Manual.) Thanks for the help.

Well, there's really nothing you can about your friends, short of locking them in your basement/garage. I doubt they'd stay friendly very long after that. I was in your place back in '04, but went a drastically different direction for a seriously stupid reason. It's picking up though. Look at it this way. Do the CC for two years, then transfer as a junior to one of the colleges that your friends attend. College is completely different then HS, you'll start all over again and then scatter, again. Don't sweat the small stuff, it'll be great.