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I agree 100% However, we are all Z enthusiasts here, and the point of these types of sites is to provide useful information (which this site has PLENTY of.) If all you're doing is complaining about another idiot noob, and his stupid questions, how are you adding to or helping the community? Either don't respond, or point them in the right direction with a link or information. If you guys think this forum's noob content is bad you should go spend a day on my350z haha.

I read the information provided from this site long before I joined. I joined once I actually purchased my 240Z. This forum is full of information if you just search and read. I see some of the "new" topics started and shake my head since I have read probably well over half the content on this forum. You can learn pretty much everything by simply searching and reading the different sub forums. With that being said, I think it wouldn't hurt if people tried to be more helpful... Instead of saying, "search" and "this has been discussed blah blah amount of times" help guide them to a thread that discusses their question. If you took the time to respond negatively, you can take the time to respond helpfully.

Also, did you use the lizzard skin as the undercoating? Or what did you use for that? It looks great! Thanks.

I would like to see this as well. Also curious as to how well it works for sound deadening. Seriously considering this!

So sick! Following your build closely. Thanks for sharing!

lol. I've learned to just roll with a nice "stock" phrase as well. Something along the lines of "Yeah these cars are a lot of fun, okay ttyl!" haha.

I swear people used to drive so much faster then we do now... I have had several people tell me about how much they miss their "old z" Probably about 10-15 people in the month that I've owned it. 2 guys from my work who used to have S30's told me about how they used to drive 140 MPH down the highways in them?!?!?!? Ridiculous.

OH SNAP!!!!

Those look so sick! Can't wait to see more photos.

This is the "middle section" of the exhaust which includes the X or H pipe. Basically from the headers to where it will bolt up to the remaining pipes/mufflers/tips. Does that help explain it?

My first Z was my 1990 300ZX. Purchased in January of 2003, sold in April of 2005... My second Z was my 2003 350Z. Purchased in May of 2005., sold in May of 2007... My current and never to be sold Z is my 1972 240Z. LS1/T56 in the works...

My Excel spreadsheet at work covers the costs for pretty much everything. This also includes ME doing all the labor, including body work and paint... Body work/paint Interior work LS1 Build T56 Build R200 Diff Build JCI Motor/Tranny Mounts AZ Z Car Suspension/Brakes/Diff Mount Fuel System Tuning There are MANY details involved for each part of the build. I HIGHLY suggest you do A TON more research. Not to be mean, but you obviously have not researched this like I did for a couple years before diving into the project. Research, save your money, and start the build when you have the knowledge and funds to get it done. My total build budget right now is right at $27,000. Thanks.

Sounds good.

1 3/4 primaries is actually more than enough needed to run a pretty aggressive cam. Check out LS1tech and view the thread "the recipe to 500 rwph NA" Great info there. You should be more concerned about the piping diameter going down to 2.5 inches instead of 3 inches. For the LS1 motors with aggressive heads and cam, a full 3 inch exhaust with either an X or H pipe is highly recommended. Cable, is the 2.5 inch piping all we can do? 3 inches would provide optimum performance gained from the custom long tubes. Also these will be an X pipe correct?

Cable, that pricing is awesome! I assume both the headers and the headpipes will come with all the necessary hardware and gaskets needed for install? Can't wait t see the prototypes installed on your car. Please also provide pictures of the headpipes installed so we can see the bends and how it routes. Thanks!

It's all about your engine build. See my above posts.

100% correct.

The other cool part about using an R200 diff is there are a couple manufacturers who sell everything you need to get it to bolt up to the Z, aka no fabrication on your end. Also JCI, (John's Cars/Broken Kitty) sells a driveshaft that goes from the T56 to the R200 Diff.

You can still run 2.5 inch pipes after the collector, all the way back.. The 3 inch collector (if it will fit) is important for getting the best flow and most power out of the headers... As the piston reaches the top of the exhaust stroke, it dwells as the crankshaft sweeps across the top of its stroke. This is where valve overlap occurs. Before the piston reaches Top Dead Center, the intake valve begins to open. The trick is to design the exhaust system so that the exhaust pulse leaves behind a pressure drop or vacuum to take advantage of the valve overlap. If successful, the combustion chamber will exchange residual exhaust gases for a fresh air/fuel mixture before the piston has any real effect on the intake charge. To design a successful exhaust system or tuned header, the tube size and length are selected based on a list of engine specifications (specifications Cable has posted through his research of the LS1 motor) and application characteristics. The tube size controls the speed of the exhaust pulse, too big or small and the velocity (energy) is lost. The tube length and collector diameter is all about timing the pulse to synchronize with the cam in a specific RPM range. We want to be able to run certain cams/heads to make certain power levels, which are not usable with stock exhaust manifolds, or the current "shorty" headers applied into the Z's with LS1's. Again, the research has been done for the LS1 motors, and the diameters of each part of the headers being designed are to perfect spec.

The point of long tube, large diameter headers is for making power. If you research LS1 tech, the specs that Cable posted are EXACTLY what are recommended for making the most power and torque out of an NA LS1 motor. It has been researched for years and the information is available if you seek it. As far as the "loudness", sound quality is all personal preference. A good set of mufflers goes a long way, also pipe design, and how the exhaust exits the car. Simply having a larger diameter pipe does NOT mean it will always be louder, and absolutely does NOT mean it will drone more. If you don't want a loud open exhaust, you WILL NOT make as much power. I'm sorry, but that is the truth. Again, it has been researched and proven via years of LS1 study and trial. With smaller diameter and less free flowing shorty headers, you cannot build the cam and valve train on the LS1 motor as radical as you can with the long tube design, again, long tubes are for making POWER.

Are you talking about the piping after the collector being reduced, or the collector itself? A lot of the big power LS1 guys (CFB) will run a 3 inch collector, and then 2.5 inch piping all the way back to the muffler(s)anyway.

Cable, you have about 10 confirmed (pending details) already. Might want to think about bumping up the first batch from 5 to 10, if not even more... Just food for thought. Thanks again!

Cable, sounds awesome! I would buy a set of long tubes for sure. This way I can build my LS1 to the specs I really want. The exhaust pipe diameters are perfect, and mimic what all the LS1 builders suggest for headers, and are the sizes recommended on LS1tech for making 500WHP out of an NA LS1. Thanks!

Awesome! Thanks.

Does the factory LS1 Coolant hose that runs from the thermostat to the radiator work, or does it have to be customized?