seattlejester

Brake master cylinder would be pretty useful, wheels, drive shaft, axles would also be useful to have.

Why go smaller when you can go bigger . 7mgte, 3.0L DOHC 4 valves per cylinder turbo, good to ~300 with stock turbo, should be lots of fun! Badjuju will be helping me immensely on the swap so stay tuned.

And so it begins...

Cutting the pin, slipping out the strut housing and hammering the remaining pieces seems to be the fall back of choice. You should be able to hit it from the inside to push the mushroomed portion out, use a brass punch to keep it from mushrooming again. Alternatively you can weld a tube preferably square to the bolt to give you some leverage to crack the frozen rust. Good luck man, and just as a reference a 10 ton press isn't all that high. Most shops have 20 ton presses, most 4x4 parts installers definitely have them.

Looks like cygnusx1 had problems with that issue. I would imagine it would show up on the end tank welds if anywhere. Mine did arrive a little scuffed with a few dinged fins, but nothing to write home about. I just ordered a fan shroud independently after my near overheat, and they were supremely friendly and easy to work with.

Glad the OP decided against, but I will answer your question as I actually have a set. I bought a set as my car came with camaro seats from the PO, and I didn't want high bolsters of other aftermarket seats as I see how they rub against the window at times. Overall the quality is cheap, the foam is flimsy, and the cloth is pretty cheap (feels like it could tear). With the sliders they come with on top of mount adapters of some kind unless you are pretty short your head will be rubbing the roof, thus mine are mounted through the floor/frame rail, 1/8th inch mounting frame welded to the floor. I do notice if you put your hand on the top and push back you can see a bit of buckling in the seat back, but I notice that in some OEM seats as well. With that said, they were 80$ each shipped, they fit in the car pretty well (with the stock mounts removed) and hold up fairly well to spirited driving. They look very good and they had slots for harnesses which was a real plus. I didn't have to wonder how many times a previous owner farted in the seat, or what mess he spilled on them since they were new. Mine rests against a roll bar so the chance of them collapsing from a rear end accident is low, and the harnesses should keep me in place in the event of a front end collision. For how much I spent on them they worked pretty well for me and my purposes at the time. Now with all that said, I am looking forward to swapping them out for some real recaro's or kirkey racing seats with a cam lock harness in the future and making some sweet chairs for my room once I swap them out.

I agree with Blu, it can get the job done, but it won't get much more than that. I agree with also the second statement of buying a used welder on craigslist, a nice mig will be in that range and will open up a lot of possibilities. Or look at some of the models sears offers, a little more pricey, but some have pretty decent ranges of adjustment for wire speed and amperage and gas hookups. Personally I bought an HF and returned it after I found it impossible to weld on sheet metal, for 1/8th or 1/4 inch steel it should be more than adequate. It really only has a high and lo setting for the amperage, and the lo setting is way too much for delicate sheet work. Keep in mind the 90amp model is flux only and will splatter pretty profusely.

Much

They fit, they are cheap, the brass peacock for draining makes it really easy to service, the built in oil cooler is kind of cool. I would suggest a shroud though, as mine doesn't seem to do so well in traffic. Some people complain of pinhole leaks which are easily patched with some JB weld, mine hasn't had any problems on that front. If you are going for an upgrade looking up the increased efficiency threads might be a good idea, I'm definitely going to apply those after my big scare.

Slotted wheels, updraft webber draft carbs, and the rear window louvers (the vented slats on the rear hatch glass), are very american in styling, what you would find on american muscle cars of the day. So if you were interested in the car from a pure collector's stand point, a return to stock would necessitate, return to factory SU carbs, different wheels, reinstallation of the stock front lip, and removal of the rear louver. To secure the rear window louvers most kits require drilling holes into the hatch, which upon removal require filling in the holes. Personally I like how the cars look with a bit of fiddling. Some watanabe or panasport rims give it a nice period correct look, removal of the over rider on the bumpers and removal of the rear louver and an addition of a rear lip would make a pretty cool looking stockish car.

Welcome! Yes you are correct, that is not a series one model. It is missing a lot of the key features as you point out. It has been modified in a very american fashion. If you are not a fan, you can apply some reasoning to lower the price. The webber manifold is not a highly coveted conversion by any means, SU carbs or even better yet the triple webber or mikuni's are much preferable. The louvers if removed will have to have the holes patched up. Car looks solid, but the asking price seems on the higher side of things. Overall it looks like it has been cared for and looks complete. I'm sure you know all this if you have driven older 911's, but definitely search on here for things to look out for. Taking a peak under the dash cover and the floor mats are a real must. Good luck!

No, I think I am just going to tweak it cosmetically. The inner seat and the glass fit so no water gets in, the little gaps would pose a problem as a location for water to pool and eventually rust, so I think I'll just fill the gaps with undersealer and call it a day. So the thailand locks on ebay for 29.77 or whatnot have a small problem in that the throw is not enough to engage the lock. Adding a little bit of material on the lock throw fixes the problem, so now I have working door locks . I think I will be using an aero catch for my hatch lock, and I will stick with the R200 as downgrading to an R160 to get the LSD may not work with the power I plan to put down. The plan is to swap the new driveline in and see if I am still unhappy, then replace axles and eventually the differential as needed. My only real gripe is the odd vibrations at certain speeds and the understeer. Hopefully new found power will rid me of this problem. I have tried adjusting the manual parking brake and something is still off, either in geometry or force application. For now I will install the hydraulic brake and brainstorm how to fix the parking brake.

Turned out pretty cool Mik! I like the color, I think the tail panel should be black though, but that's a personal preference, I'm definitely leaning toward a white plastidip for my next paint job. As for longevity, I've had a plastidip badge on my daily for the past 7 years and it's still holding up well.

I believe the OP has his answer, stock radiator was directly mounted. When switching to aluminum you should soft mount or add something to dampen the contact. Plata: it sounds like your setup is pretty rigid, but I don't see any harm from using a bit of rubber between the chassis and the radiator. Is there any benefit to not using it? If it was steel I can see it adding a little rigidity, and not using the washers and rubber would be a slight weight savings, but other than that I think the 3-4$ it costs for the washers/pieces of rubber is well worth it.

With the aluminum radiators you want to have some type of padding and room for some movement between the chassis and the radiator. I have 4 rubber washers sandwiching all the contact points. The stock radiator was steel with a bronze core (or something similar to that) and could handle the chassis flex, if you hard mount the aluminum one it is going to crack somewhere.

Sorry I am really immature >.< I do the same thing with my angle grinders from HF, stick a different tool/disc in each one or multiples of the same one, and I also keep a spare. I keep two in service and one for backup. When one dies, replace it with the spare and go to harborfreight to exchange the broken one. Unless I wear them out in the 60 day period (which I have done a few times), it only costs me 10$ for the replacement with the warranty. Plus every year or so they do an update to the housing, so if the tool wears out and only the new one is available they swap them out.

Ah should have called me, I have my hobart chilling in storage! Well glad everything worked out. Looks good.

http://dirtys30.blogspot.com/2011/04/how-to-240z-ground-control-coilovers-w.html You do get an additional drop from not using the strut insulator, but you won't gain any additional travel in the strut. You still have to remove the suggested amount from the strut housings if you plan on lowering the car, especially applicable to the front where you run out of suspension travel really quickly.

I would suggest that you run the formula your self to check, but what I got... Silvermine stage 4, 11.4 inch rear rotor (300mm) 1.6 piston (41mm) Toyota 4 runner and Ford GT500 rear 66/34 Oh and Leon, thanks for the graph, and I'm actually going to go and check out that book, looks like an informative read!

So I just put all the values in a spread sheet. Hopefully it pops up. Prepost Edit: Looks like it doesn't like the format Using the numbers in this thread and the equations as well with the correct rotor diameters... Toyota 4x4 and Nissan 240sx 65/35 Toyota 4x4 and Nissan 280zx 63/37 Toyota 4x4 and Nissan Maxima 66/34 Toyota 4runner and Nissan 240sx 70/30 Toyota 4runner and Nissan 280zx 68/32 Toyota 4runner and Nissan Maxima 70/30 Datsun S30 and Nissan 240sx 63/37 Datsun S30 and Nissan 280zx 61/39 Datsun S30 and Nissan Maxima 64/36 For reference: Manufacturer, Model (Piston 1, Piston 2), Corresponding Rotor Fronts: Toyota, 4runner (43mm, 43mm) 271mm vented Toyota, 4x4 (43mm, 34mm) 271mm solid Datsun, S30 (54mm) 271mm solid Rears: Nissan, 240sx (38mm) 290mm solid Nissan, 280zx (43mm) 258mm solid Nissan, Maxima (38mm) 285mm solid Note the ratios are once again a term known as pad bite, it is the ratio front to rear of the braking torque the caliper exerts via the pad onto the rotor when you step on the brake with no proportioning valve. Actual brake bias exerted on the road will change with tire width, tire compound, wheel diameter, pad material, etc etc.

Honestly, the harbor freight one works ok. It has a fair amount of torque and as long as you don't put a big bit in it (I was hogging out holes and such) it works fine. It is a bit ungainly in size though so not too great if you need to get into tight areas. If you get the warranty on it, you can just take it back and swap it out when the carbon brushes go out or a piece wears out, the only thing that really bothered me is that some people reported the shaft breaking, so I always wear some kind of eye protection. If you want to go a bit more authentic you can get a roto-zip. That thing is a beast of a tool and will easily wear out any dremel bit you stick in it, if anything you need to step up to a bigger shank. With the torque it generates it is a bit of a shock when you use it though. If you want to use the air compressor you can always buy two cheaper compressors and run them in tandem, but that does kick up the energy bill quite a bit.

The drum brakes were indeed giving me a headache, I would have enjoyed having a brake bias ratio available of the stock setup to compare but given I think the calculation of drum brake bias is fa beyond me. I've been doing some reading and that seems to be the money point 60-70/40-30 for a FR layout, you want your braking force to never outweigh the weight transfer or you experience lockup. If the car is balanced 50/50, one would think that 50/50 bias would be a good idea, but as you brake the weight is lifted off the rear making the rear brake bias too high and prematurely locking the rear (granted the rear shouldn't lock since they are being driven by the engine, rear lock=stall). So at 50/50 it seems that the increased rear bias is wasted, and from anecdotal evidence as Nigel points out, it seems going much above 70/30 seems to have the opposite effect. This is of course without the use of the proportioning valve, I would imagine having a 60/40 and dialing the rears out until the car brakes evenly in a straight line would be preferred, but once again all from reading technical articles that may have been over my head. For the rear brake rotor I used the rotor that is on my car, an early 300zx rotor turned down 285mm so shaved 5mm or so. The kit was sold by a gentleman on craigslist I believe he turned them down so that his kit allowed the use of 14's, or so that he would be the only supplier of the rotor (ingenious), but I doubt many users are using the same kit. I did not have the rotor size that most people use at hand so I just did the math with what I had. But with the numbers you provide I can redo the math and make a more accurate generalized approximation. So with the 240sx kit most people are using the stock early 300zx rotor at 290mm, with the 280zx kit, most people are running stock later 280zx rotor at 258mm?

I really am embarrassed. So with that corrected, we are then comparing moments? As in Moment = Force x Radial Distance from rotational axis, where Force equals the area multiplied by line pressure, and the radial distance is the corrected radius of rotor - radius of piston. So to calculate ratio Moments... Front Bias = (Moment of Front / (Moment of Front + Moment of Rear)) x 100. Rear Bias = (Moment of Rear/ (Moment of Front + Moment of Rear)) x 100. Moment Toyota 4x4 front caliper = 2360mm^2 x Line pressure x (135.5mm-21.5mm) = 269040mm^3 x line pressure (in kg/mm^2) Moment Toyota 4-runner = 2904mm^2 x Line pressure x (135.5mm-21.5mm) = 331056mm^3 x line pressure Moment Nissan 280zx = 1452mm^2 x Line pressure x (142.5mm - 21.5mm) = 175692mm^3 x line pressure Moment Nissan 240sx = 1134mm^2 x Line pressure x (142.5mm - 19mm) = 140049mm^3 x line pressure The ratio removes line pressure from the equation assuming same line pressure goes to front and back (for our very simple calculation) So we end up with biases of: Toyota vented 4-runner and Nissan 240sx rear caliper setup 70%:30% Toyota vented 4-runner and Nissan 280zx rear caliper setup 65%:35% Toyota solid 4x4 and Nissan 240sx rear caliper setup 66%:34% Toyota solid 4x4 and Nissan 280zx rear caliper setup 60.5%/39.5% This would be my calculations using the slightly strange fact my rear rotors are larger than my fronts and using the stock z rotor for the front (not sure if the 4-runner guys run a different diameter, or if there is another size that most people run for the rear). To calculate the actual braking force applied we would have to then start accounting for the leg pressure, master cylinder bore, mu of the tire, the radial distance from the rotational axis to the contact patch of the tire, and on and on, and factor in the weight shift of the car as one is braking and cornering, so this very brutal calculation is a very simple way of looking at comparable pad bites? Well regardless, thank you very much Nigel for helping me fumble through all this math, I definitely need to pull out my physics books and brush up on them again.

That's what I would imagine, but the reverse light is what throws me off.

I think a mod may move it unless they deem it is related enough to the forum location to remain here. Hmm, I hate to ask, but is the battery fully charged? A drain could kill a battery quite quickly, granted if the battery was killed the car wouldn't start up right away again. From my limited thoughts, I would check the voltage while the car is running and then turn on the turn signal to see if there is any differentiation in the voltage when it goes on. If it is not the battery and it is linked with the reverse switch or turn signals it points towards an electrical fault, which would mean referring to the factory service manual (available online) and tracing the wires for the ignition and the turn signal and seeing if they cross somewhere or are shorting into each other. The wires do share the same harness from the steering column all the way to the front of the vehicle so it will be quite a bit of wiring to check. I would start at the ends though, at the steering column and the switches and at the coil/igniter/turn signals. Both are known to be fault points in early z-cars not so sure on the later models.