seattlejester

3/8 seems big enough from my fuel calculator as long as the nitrous shot isn't a huge amount. If you wanted to go all out you could always run a separate line from that plugged port on the fuel cell, but that would be for something pretty crazy like a 200 shot and a pretty hopped up 350. I think a roll of 3/8 aluminum line enough for the whole car is like 20$ and 4xAN to 3/8 conversion fitting is another 10$ a piece. I think a roll of 3/8 rubber tube was 35$ so it compares pretty nicely.

Agreed with above, the pictures are nice, but the routing is a bit confusing. Also I'm not sure this is the right forum. I think the chevy subforum would be preferred traffic wise. My initial thought is, that's a lot of gauges. If I'm reading it right, 350 is carb'd and you are planning on running nitrous? In addition based off of the barbs, you are planning on routing rubber line all the way front and back except for right next to the engine? If possible routing aluminum hardline or AN lines would be preferred, from both a safety stand point and a longevity stand point. Most tech people don't like to see long bits of rubber fuel line, especially if it starts at the fuel cell and goes all the way to the front on top of exhaust pipes and stuff. For the vent line, I would illustrate a coil to indicate that you have at least some roll over protection, or add a roll over valve to the vent line. Other than that it looks fairly complete, the diameter of the hoses/an sizes would be useful as well as how much power you plan on making.

Wow it's come a long way. I like it, has a kind of style all of it's own, any side shots to show how the wheel base changed? Probably a bit less traffic here than in the build threads or S30 section.

FYI It is "course" not "corse". "Corse" actually refers to a corpse as in a dead body. Ebay is not a great gauge for car prices, since the entire world can look at it. Check your local craigslist and surrounding states, I always check some of the craigslist in california and arizona, they seem to keep their vintage steel pretty well. Regarding price, would you pay more than 10k for a datsun z car? I think most people on here would say they could build one or put one together for much less other than a well swapped example. Other people may say that they can only afford 3-5k and would rather build it over time. I think the mindset with our crowd is that at a certain price point, people would rather attempt it themselves, thus those who know the community have to limit themselves to a certain point. So if you raise it too much above that the chance of selling is greatly diminished. Where as people who are abandoning a project are trying to recoup their losses and might post a higher price, but will be willing to settle for less. The biggest differentiation in price comes from condition. A lot of people will look on google or ebay and see the price range and post their cars for similar prices, even though it is no where near the same condition. Rust and previous damage are the biggest factor in these cars, I think many people who have done the replacement repairs for the dogleg, floors, frame rails, battery tray, etc would whole heartedly agree that they would have paid an extra 2000 or more for a better condition chassis. So definitely something to consider. Unless it was a rust free chassis that was verified either via pictures of clean metal for the floors, straight frame rails, and no problems in the battery tray or doglegs, or actually stripped down and metal work done, I would be very skeptical of ads stating full restorations. A full restoration to someone might be a new NOS nissan/datsun parts, re-plated hardware, etc etc, to someone else it might mean a coat of paint and an interior detail. My advice is maybe not to consider the swapped cars unless you are familiar with the motors. It is hard to work on one car, add to that a heart transplant and it will make it doubly so. In other words it will be twice as much reading.

Ah, with the w58 that substantially cuts down on costs, granted I feel the w58 would be inadequate for sports such as drag racing or anything else that might shock load the tranny. My list with prices (on the higher side since I am not immersed in the supra community) Motor $2500 2jzgte from importer compression checked Trans $1000 for R154, $5000 for V160 Motor mounts $200 agreed, very dependent on your metal source and your fab skill, I did mine for ~$40 as I have a metal supplier and welding equipment handy Trans mounts $100 same as above, can be done with just a straight bar for 10$, but a decent fabbed one will take a few hours and ~30$ in steel Custom driveshaft $300 right on the money on this one, exactly what I paid Aftermarket single turbo exhaust manifold $350-400, I am having trouble finding non ebay ones for less than that, I've had a few manifolds crack so I tend to stay away from ebay brands, especially if it's holding up a big turbo. Aftermarket Turbo $500-1500, a new holset or a new turbonetics T61 was what I was thinking, some money could be saved here by buying used. Exhaust $400, for downpipe and flanged pipes all the way down, $250 is what the local shop charges for just a straight 1 piece exhaust. Uprated clutch/pressure plate $500-600 for an ACT clutch that can hold projected power levels Bigger intercooler $150 agreed, no need to dump money on here Intercooler piping kit $120 agreed, should be adequate for all the bends BOV $150-300 used vs new Waste gate $150-300 used vs new Bigger injectors $400 Higher volume and pressure fuel pump $150-300, depending on how many you will have to run to meet fuel demands Fuel tank of some kind (fuel cell, or I think a 76 260z tank? with different fittings) $200 Summit fuel cell Bigger fuel lines $200 I did all AN front to back, could definitely save by using aluminum tubing Rising rate fuel pressure regulator $125 about what I paid for my AEM unit Fuel filter $25 ECU of some sort $750 for my bare bones MS2 setup with sensors pre assembled with upgraded drivers Gauges (boost, oil pressure, water temperature, speedometer, tachometer) $400-1000, depends on how you setup speedo, a gps gauge can run 400 by itself Electric fan w/shroud and radiator $350 On top of which you will have to add for the manual conversion: Manual pedal box JY Clutch slave cylinder JY Clutch line JY Probably less than 100 to have it pulled and shipped to you if you can't find anyone local. And seeing as how you want to run a single turbo, which people usually do after maxing out twins so ~450hp: Upgraded axles, I.E. CV axles $900 from wolf creek, a few alternative options out there Upgraded diff with lsd $1000 for a subaru r180 with conversion axles or an R200 with lsd from a later model z31 Wider tires and rims $1500 really variable here Flares, unless you are running slicks, or don't want the wider tires and rims for the grip $200 Better brakes $1000 rear disk, toyota fronts, new rotors, new pads, new lines, new master, new booster. Or new pads and shoes all around with new lines and fresh masters ~300 Better suspension $800 at the minimum (sway bars, strut cartridges, springs, ball joints, tie rods new bolts, poly kit, etc), can drop an easy $5000 or more here for adjustable everything. If the car is salvaged, definitely fix whatever caused that title especially if it's structural. With that much power, chassis stiffening should be very much considered. I will say $1000-3000 here for a front chassis brace of some sort and some serious sub frame connectors, new floors and a roll bar would not be a bad thing to consider either. Total for the lower end of the spectrum I'm at 15,300 at the higher end over 20,000 With that said, I agree if you shop around/haggle/use contacts you could attack that number a bit, I know the guy who is helping with mine picked up his intact 2jz-ge motor for less than 200$ at a salvage yard, but 15k is not a bad number to keep in mind, it is daunting thinking of pouring more than 10 times the worth of the car into it, but better to quote high and save, then the other way around.

Hah, I think that is the case when you don't have pictures . Please post when you make up the mounts, always nice to see how the mounts have to come together to avoid drain pipes and other bits. We still have a 2jz to mockup and install.

Agreed, you could potentially phsyically get the motor in the car for about 7k (granted when I was shopping around for a 2jzgte and getrag 6-speed, I had trouble finding any for under 5k-6k), but you would be pretty far from a fully functioning vehicle. Let alone one with a single turbo conversion and aftermarket engine control as OP requested. I think 15k would be a good number to keep in mind, that will let him buy parts as he needs without having to hunt for deals. I am curious though, how did you get 7k as a value? Do you have a toyota swapped Z? It would be nice to see another build post in this section of the forum.

Was talked out of the 1 wire alternator, one because I did not want to try and fabricate and line up a belt driven accessory and two if it needed replacement on the fly, that could prove to be difficult. Ordered a relocation bracket and a 140amp alternator, that should be the last of the main components I need. Completely removed my cable parking brake. It never worked quite as well (discovered a missing clamp yesterday), but never held the car even when in tip top shape when first installed. Maybe I will revisit it at another time, but for the time being hydro it is. Still having a bit of trouble with the brake line routing, found that the driver wheel was touching the flexible brake hose when lifted in the air, I think the combination of wider wheels, lower car, and aftermarket brakes needs a bit more massaging to be sorted out. Definitely going to add a bit of shielding with how close it rides to the wheels, after moving everything over a bit. Other than the hydro brake, the car is sorted all the way up to the dash. New fuel pump is installed, plumbed, and wired. New fuel lines front to back are routed and clamped. Pulled the radiator and intercooler to help route the wiring, planning on ditching the fan controller and having megasquirt control the fans by itself. Still need to spend an hour or so installing the clutch fork/trans shields/tranny brace/clutch line/shifter/shift knob, and the driveline will be 100% complete. Pretty excited, a few good days on wiring, mounting electronics, and filling fluids and we might see a startup. Total hours spent 85 hours.

^Especially if it can crash.

A novel approach to existing technology. Kind of curious what method of reset they go with, Forward Air Spring Operated Return, Forward Air Magnetic Operated Return, or just Forward Air Air Operated Return. A FASOR setup will probably be the easiest and cheapest to implement, although a fully pneumatic cartridge sealed air forward air return setup would be pretty snazzy, maintenance free, but fairly costly. I think he did get ahead of himself with the whole air pump scenario. I could fathom cutting off the fuel to make a purely air pumping air pump at idle or when the throttles closed, but generating oil aerosol's and storing that pressurized in a tank seems like a pretty easy way to generate some unneeded combustion, and the amount of air flow you would need to maintain boost on a turbo not connected to the exhaust would be substantial, granted while it ran, the boost curve would be smooth as butter, since it wouldn't be subject to engine pulses. Great video, thanks for the share!

I've actually thought about this a fair amount. With an actual computer very plausible. Computers are used to control outputs all the time. Even with an arduino board, you could program it to do quite a few of the things desired. But with an android powered tablet controlling everything, you are going to have a problem. Program writing. Unless you know how to write an app, an app that would do external outputs using the android device, this is going to be extremely hard to pull off. You would have to take advantage of code that control an output, like the flashlight, blinking, camera, or sound output, and tap into that signal. There are not many apps with outputs using the data cable, some that receive data input via the cable, but not very many with outputs using the data cable. And in a data cable there are I think 4 wires? Doesn't leave much room to supply the tablet with all the sensor inputs it would need to manage an engine. Or enough outputs to actuate relays. With that said, having an android as an interactive display already exists, you can start your car if it has bluetooth capabilities/cell capabilities with apps like the viper alarm systems. You can display all the important parameters that megasquirt outputs wirelessly with the shadow dash app (what I plan to do). With a computer or laptop running the outputs using a relay board as suggested, you could have the tablet run a display via a remote desktop app or something similar and control the outputs. There are a few people that have very integrated computers in their cars, if you search for carputers you can see what was involved. A lot involve putting in gps antennas for speed and gps signals, wireless receivers, a converter for the power supply, and that's only the hardware, from the few that I've seen the most integrated examples are done by programmers in their spare time. I met a guy that worked for microsoft that had a carputer, and tuned right off of it during a dyno session, very impressive.

Welcome, Motor Trans Motor mounts Trans mounts Custom driveshaft Aftermarket single turbo exhaust manifold Aftermarket Turbo Exhaust Uprated clutch/pressure plate Bigger intercooler Intercooler piping kit BOV Waste gate Bigger injectors Higher volume and pressure fuel pump Fuel tank of some kind (fuel cell, or I think a 76 260z tank? with different fittings) Bigger fuel lines Rising rate fuel pressure regulator Fuel filter ECU of some sort, I'm with devil on that, MS will be your best bet price wise, most people who run 2jzs tend to spend a little more for brand name as in the overall price it is fairly negligible Gauges (boost, oil pressure, water temperature, speedometer, tachometer) Electric fan w/shroud On top of which you will have to add for the manual conversion: Manual pedal box Clutch slave cylinder Clutch line And seeing as how you want to run a single turbo, which people usually do after maxing out twins so ~450hp: Upgraded axles, I.E. CV axles Upgraded diff with lsd Wider tires and rims Flares, unless you are running slicks, or don't want the wider tires and rims for the grip Better brakes, or at the minimum very fresh stock setup Better suspension And that is with the assumption you have a very very very well sorted starting platform, any weakness will definitely be exposed when you put 400 or more hp to it (which you will with a single turbo setup). I am at 7k for a 7mgte almost finished. With a bigger turbo, injector, and manifold, I would probably be closer to the 10k mark. Throw on top of that a 2jzgte costs 5k or more the last time I checked my importer (compared to the 2k for that I paid for my setup), a budget of 15k should be a good solid number to start. That's also without any work done to the motor or transmission. If memory serves, the 72 model has the bolt through style transmission cross member which will have to be removed and the tunnel will have to be reinforced, compared to the 70-71 captive nut style. The motor fits into the engine bay pretty well (there is a 2jz sitting in the same garage as my car that I've checked dimensions on). Depending on how you place the turbo you have have to clearance the hood. Depending on the size of your intercooler you will have to make room in the radiator support.

...It was in reference to the purepontiackid's setup. I'm pretty sure he is running a welded diff, and was advising the need for an lsd if you wanted to do both sports. I know the 280zx NA in all versions did not come with one, therefore the advice. My intention was not to imply you did not know anything about either sports, but for some reason you took it as such. A nice introduction thread could have avoided all this I suppose, but too late for that. You did come off as a jerk, don't preface something when you plan on doing exactly what you are prefacing against. Saying you don't want to come off as a jerk, and then informing someone they are the reason that you avoid something pretty much qualifies you as a jerk. And if a simple piece of advice that is relevant off puts you, then why are you here? I was just trying to give some advice for down the line, because your thought process is wickedly flawed, and I didn't want to go into it. But I guess I will. Your goals that you list don't make sense, you don't care about how much power, you just want it to feel good. What does that mean? Does 10 hp feel good, does 1000 hp feel good, is it torque you are after, is it reliability, what does feel good mean? Essentially you have removed the ability to determine your problem. A dry compression test would have told you if the rings/headgasket are good, a wet compression test would have told you if the valves or headgasket is good. Those two tests could have determined the problem down to the cylinder or which two cylinders your problem lies, but now that you've taken the head off, you won't know for sure what the cause of the problem is. You also pulled it without knowing what to look for? That seems like exploratory surgery, pretty ridiculous. Now that you have pulled it, you don't even know what you are looking at? That's pretty silly. Wear in the ring grooves, if you can catch your finger nail on the cylinder wall, scoring, checking the cross hatching, strange wear patterns, all things you could have checked for the bottom end. Inspecting the mating surface, a pinched gasket, valve and seat mating surfaces, rust traces/trails are all things you could have checked with the head. You could have even checked for compression and determined to a rough extent bearing condition by removing the valve cover and rotating the crank by hand. You pulled the head without draining the coolant? So now you're not even sure how much coolant you had in the cylinders. Or which cylinders had coolant prior to the head removal. Couldn't get the bolts for the manifolds off, so you removed it with the manifolds bolted on and rusted in place? How are you going to hold the head to get the bolts and studs out now? Put the cover back on an roll it over on the top and mar the valve cover? Lean it toward the back and mar the back of the head and the mating surface? Coolant in exhaust, evident by white smoke as you said, should have been checked by draining the oil. Now with the coolant in the cylinders you are not going to know if you fixed it until all that coolant is burned off or flushed, probably two oil changes there. And all this bigger flow, big cam, and such you will be adding. Do you even have a way to adjust the fuel to compensate? The stock ECCS is pretty inadequate when you start playing around with headwork. Now I know I've come across as an ass. I tried not to, but you provoked me. My little quip was something to keep in mind, so you don't end up trying to autocross your welded diff to be disappointed like I was. You were already beyond what I would have suggested, but I wanted to post a little advice to keep track of where the thread was headed. Now I'm not interested. Good luck.

Welcome, Definitely seconded to miles, read and read lots. If you get bored of reading, read through build threads, if you get bored of those then watch some videos (project hugo by mull, a good hour of what areas to look out for and the repair process), but read and keep reading. Forums are super helpful for specific questions, asking general questions that we can't answer is not a good start. If you want to know everything, read everything . Even if you don't end up starting the project right away, knowledge can be stored, the ability to recall, or know where to find information will be priceless in all faculties of life. Definitely read the rules of this forum, there's a lot of knowledge here, but it comes at a price of proper punctuation, spelling, grammar, and doing your initial research. Things to help you get started. Set a budget, how much can you spend, is it liquid cash, or will you be saving up bit by bit over time Set a goal, what will you be using it for, when do you want it finished, what will the swap entail Check your resources, will your friends and family tolerate you using their shop space/garage for months on end, how much will they charge for work, how much can you impose, can they fabricate, weld, etc Build a list, what will you need for your goal, adjustable suspension, donor engine, donor car, donor front clip Just looking into those will immensely narrow down what you need to read. Once you have an idea, look for build threads of individuals who have similar swaps, look at the post date, see how long it took, look up the parts, see how much they cost, once you get an idea and a plan, start filling in the plan step by step. Also keep in mind, you are 16, and hopefully in high school. Projects can suck up a lot of time and finances, can you afford the time? How will it affect your studies? How will it affect your social life? There are some very important things to consider. I know a desire can be strong, but definitely keep reality in check. There is nothing worse then seeing a project abandoned half way. Also being 16, consider the insurance premium. A friend just added her son to her policy and the insurance payment went up by 4k a year. Add to that a 2 door, RWD, sports car and the thought is just eye watering. Can you pay for the additional coverage of moving from a safe 4 door fwd sedan to a 2 door rwd sports car? Definitely things to look into. Good luck.

Meh, it looks like he came clean in the end, that redeems him to me. I find him entertaining, there aren't too many automotive themed shows that are around and /tuned is always a treat. I don't take his word as gospel or anything, but coverage of "tuned" cars usually seem to be personal clips or some kind of documentary. It's nice to have a host that will push the car, add a few laughs and comment on the experience rather then the culture. Where else can you see coverage of the hennesy venom or the twin charged lotus?

Getting stuff done! Hmm, if you don't mind me saying...I would suggest you either weld hotter and faster (more amps more wiring speed) and move around a lot more, or weld slower and space things outs more. I'm sure the welds are plenty strong for their purposes, but you are going to introduce a lot of heat with the tall welds and even more when you have to spend lots of time grinding them down. It will save you lots of time in the long run.

Oh well, I didn't here anything about the back pedaling or denials, just that the video was removed. Anyways, I think a modded Z would be very neat, it seems like he's covered quite a broad range, it's time to start getting into the niches .

I think that was him being a little to trusting. Just imagine someone let you go for a ride, let alone drive, what you think is a very rare, hand built, multimillion dollar car! I think you would be excused for not being able to spot a few discrepancies, and let's be honest unless you were a real aficionado, they are very convincingly converted. I think it is more of a testament to how awesome the L motors can sound instead of how Matt Farah was trolled. I think he's shown that he is a car guy, maybe not a hands on memorize all the facts guy, but definitely a car guy. Reminds me of Jeremy in that regard. Not terribly knowledgeable about the fine details, but incredibly entertaining to watch.

Thank you all for the responses! I believe it will still be better for me to split up my policies. My father got me in touch with his insurance shopper who found a policy for my daily driver at around 1200 a year for 100/500/500 coverage with collision and other incidents insurance. I am hoping of switch cars to something a bit older which should help drive the premiums down even further. The datsun will definitely be registered as a classic. I had some grandeur idea of using it as a daily driver so pursued a regular policy, but barely managed 1000 miles this year while actively trying. I have also just been informed that my savings will be a whopping 3$ per pay deduction for the datsun so definitely will be going with a classic insurance company. Will definitely be talking to Grundy, Haggerty, American Collectors, and American Classic. Thanks all!

JohnC is still on here, and it really isn't that they are no more, the company merged with another to my understanding. With that said, if he isn't selling them anymore you can make your own pretty easily if you are handy with a pair of scissors, a permanent marker, and some cardboard. Just make sure you have enough clearance for the hood, enough clearance for the steering rack, enough clearance for the hood latch, enough clearance for the transmission and the driveshaft lines up with the differential. What will you be doing for the transmission mount? Whatever route you choose, you can have the shop/individual who does the transmission mount do the motor mounts at the same time.

A good locking rear diff is a must if you want to do both sports, welding the diff will make you understeer like a pig on an autocross course.

Hi Robin, Seconded to blu above, it would be very helpful to have numbers to backup the claims. A timing light, a fuel pressure gauge, and a wideband AFR kit with a gauge would make your problem very easy to pinpoint. Is the car bogging at high rpm or is it pinging? Does it feel like a gradual loss of power or is it like you hit a wall and the car just doesn't develop any power? Is it a fuel overflow or a lean problem is what I am getting at, have you looked at the spark plugs? Are they dark or grey? If it drives well under the 3500 rpm mark, I think it points to your vacuum advance, fuel flow, or the fuel mixture. For the SU carbs you have to kind of tune for a rich idle, that leans out as the RPM rises. I would say you want to get the mixture to the point where the car seems like it wants to stumble at idle and then back off a 1/2 turn, and slowly back it out after some runs if you don't have an AFR meter. Unless you have a sticky seat or a leaky throttle shaft, tuning each carb should have some effect with the "raise the carb piston" style tuning. You may just have to add oil to the carbs or turn one carb a little more than the other. If you have an AFR meter, have the car idle around 11 or 12 warmed up and see what it goes up to when you give it WOT. If it gradually goes higher then 15, then you will want to decrease the mixture so it idles around 10 or 11 at idle, any lower than 10 and the car will stumble at idle. If it gradually goes up and all of a sudden jumps up into the 20's then you have a problem with fuel delivery. If it slowly decreases as the RPM's rise, the mixture is far too rich, you may want to have the carbs looked at for a very sticky valve or an oversized needle. For fuel flow, a fuel pressure gauge would definitely help with determining if the carbs are getting the right pressure. Are you using the factory fuel rail? The factory rail comes with a restrictor on the rail for the return line to maintain some pressure in the carbs. Do you have any fuel filters? Have you had the tank cleaned? How do you know you are getting good fuel flow? The vacuum advance problem would be a bit harder to diagnose, with the cap off, and a vacuum brake bleeder pump you can manually generate vacuum and see if the distributor internals are rotating as designed. If you have a timing gun even better, turn the car on and have someone accelerate the motor and monitor the timing to see what it advances to. Adding additional marks with white paint/nail polish will help pick up the timing marks a bit easier. Speaking of timing, what did you set the timing to? Around 10btdc advancing to 30btdc seems to be a decent rough starting point.

Very cool, keep us updated on the ride comfort. I'm still shopping around for a set and some bolt in camber adjustment would be fantastic.

Suspension and brakes are always a great place to start, granted stretching isn't the best option for performance, but it can look quite good . I think I have 225's on a 7 inch rim and even that seems like it has some stretch. Do you have some type of camber adjustment to adjust for the resulting negative camber gain in the back? Did you have to do the spindle pin for the bushings? The rite of passage for all Z-owners haha. Personal question, when reusing stock top hats like that, do you forgo the pillow mount? Or do they drill out the stock top hat and add it somehow? I haven't seen that setup, do you have a link to where it was purchased/how it was done/who did it? I've been contemplating something similar since I spent money on adjustable camber tops. The adjustability height wise seems absolutely silly (in a fun way). I do vote for either painting or removing the corrugated metal on the side skirts. Looks pretty neat.

Thanks guys, keep them coming, if you could add the rough amount you are paying and age it would be really appreciated! As well as any special reason for the rate. To lay all my cards out on the table, I think I am at 3700 a year right now with two different policies liberty mutual and pemco, I just got a quote for 2900 if I combine the policies without my rate adjustment for my upcoming age. I am sure there has to be better out there.