seattlejester

Hmm doesn't delrin tend to crack with impact? I guess even if it did, in a sleeve with a shock on top it wouldn't have anywhere to go.

Replacement door acquired from Jmortenson on the forums. Met and a little chat, and realized who it was when he was describing his crazy wheel sizes. Still waiting on the input flange, input stubs, and half shafts. I have all the pieces on my car, but would rather have everything painted/rebuilt and ready to go in. Really regret throwing away the R200 from a couple years ago, and not pulling the parts from the other 280z I pulled the struts from in the junkyard a couple weeks ago. Seems like when you have it it's junk and when you want it it's gold.

Mount Vernon is a pretty quiet place too so lots of time to think and assemble little projects. Generally for suspension and brakes as long as the basics are done they are fairly easy to upgrade since the access is relatively easy. New brake lines would be my recommendations, a new kit costs 50-70$ and is pretty easy to plumb, and it would be a breeze to plumb while you do your fuel lines. New bushings and springs and struts will really make the car feel much tighter. The Tokico springs and KYB blue struts are a popular stage 1 combo and feel pretty good. I would say the really time saving important things will be things you can address while the car is apart that will be hard to get to once it's put together. Build your fuel line for high pressure and volume within reason and you will thank yourself later. That doesn't mean you need expensive braided line and stuff, but good clean stainless or aluminum fuel line in 3/8 or 1/2 inch and even if you decide to throw a V8 or a turbo 4 or 6 you are going to have good fuel. Generally for suspension and brakes as long as the basics are done they are fairly easy to upgrade since the access is relatively easy. Depends on what engine you get that will kind of determine what kind of activities you will be doing which will kind of point you towards your intended suspension setup. No point in having the best built track setup if you put a lawn mower engine in you know? On the flips side having a monster engine and not enough suspension is going to make it a real handful. I would say a nice stage 1 to start and then kind of go from there to determine what feels good or what someone who is running your activity recommends.

Thanks for that newzed. Hmm, I just figured it would hold up better to weld a flange onto the shaft then trying to cut a shaft shorter or to weld up a spline like that. I'll have to take a look when i get my input shaft to see what would be the most reasonable. And for sure I get that any shop doing such work would wave any responsibility. The part that appealed to me is that I think it was the input shaft that looks like it is welded. Kind of located with a hole that sits into it and then welded internally. I might be mistaken though. Hmm well i don't plan on drifting with this diff so we will see, but I can't run a welded for daily Im just not as tolerable as I used to be, but please do ask curious I am

You've misunderstood so much. I'm not sure where to start... Phone example is indicating that even with the phone at max volume I can barely hear the person. It turns into a shouting match both ways, I can't hear them and I have to shout for them to hear me, the reason is the car is too loud. Full song implies the car at full throttle, not the actual stereo. The comma reads as a break/pause so the statement reads: Even at cruising it is very loud. When I am no longer at idle (accelerating vigorously to a point where I would hit the shift light) I would not be able to hear anything at all. This is extrapolated to our cars being fairly loud, so a buzzer would probably not grab as much attention as a well placed light.

Long and short of it. Need some ideas. I have an R200 Long nose differential out of a Z31 300zx non turbo. I have swapped the ring gear onto a center section from an 1994 or 1995 infiniti J30, gaining myself an LSD. I am going to shim it slightly, clean it, and install the ring gear on and reinstall it into the housing finishing that part. Now here is the problem, the input shaft while having the same spline count, have different lengths. The short side can be popped out and the R200 input shaft from a 280z can be used. The problem is the longer side is indeed just that, longer. Thus I need to use the input shaft that came with the infiniti. The connundrum is that it is a 6 bolt pattern 3x2 and fairly large about 2-3 inches longer as it is a cup rather then a flat flange. Xenon31.com has quite a few methods, but rely on acquiring the highly lucrative 1988 Shiro VLSD axles for some of them. All the methods outlined is assuming a Z31 stub axle so would require converting the flange via whitehead performance or checkered flag racing conversion flanges for the stub axle. I'm putting out about 300hp with 330ft/lb according to the internet. So it would have to handle that. So my options I can see are as follows. 1. Cut the infiniti input shaft and weld the flange on from a 280z input shaft and use rebuilt stock half shafts. 2. Cut the infiniti input shaft and weld the flange on from a 280z input shaft and upgrade to wolf creek cv axles. 3. Retain the infiniti input shaft use infiniti cv axle (at least the differential side), shorten axle, and convert stub axle flange to match cv axle, will probably require 4 axles to use 4 differential sides. Is there some other methods that are staring me in the face that I am missing? I know welding axles is a pretty big no-no, but is welding the shaft of the input shaft to a flange acceptable?

Conversion brackets are available, but if you can fab that would probably be easier. My friend just showed me the video that your avatar is on "hey charlie."

Bummer to be away from your car, but gives you more time to plan .

Those look real nice, custom options are sweet too, will have to add this to my eventual list lol.

I just threw a new tune on it and messed with the acceleration enrichment so it should be running much better at least in the full throttle category. It was set to a really high throttle threshold so when I switched from MAP to TPS accel enrichment, the threshold made it inject fuel after the acceleration event so it would run lean then rich up really quick. I revved it a bit and it seems much smoother, will have to go for a drive soon. Good news, found a 300zx at a local parts shop of all places. Apparently they had the unit for the past 20 years on the shelf. Decided that I should work on that a bit as it was blocking my car. Took off the cover and popped out the center section Impacted the bolts off and used some brass rod to take the ring gear off Ring gear removed Open diff on the left from the 300zx, VLSD diff on the right from Infiniti J30 The bolts are of the same size and such. Just have to separate the VLSD and take a look at the shims and shim them up a tad for a little more lock. The reason for going through all this trouble is that the ring gear is quite different, not just in the number of teeth but in thickness even though they are both R200's (although the 300zx is long nose, the J30 is short nose). Only piece left for this that will be challenging is the longer input shaft, that is going to require some cutting and welding, possibly some cad too if I want new flanges or I suppose I can just steal from a stock input flange. In the works of getting a replacement door as well as a some axles and input flanges, going to rebuild the axles and make the appropriate adapter so that this will truly be a bolt in operation. Planning on ordering my coilovers either next week or in early September.

Huh, now that is an interesting idea. Does it clear the wheel well and such? I just hacked the rear of my buckets off for clearance and sealed them with tape to keep the water out, that seems a bit more elegant.

Been a bit slow. Cut the A arm tubes to length, just need to notch them, fit them and start welding. Ordered more parts to finish this soon. 15335 Fastenal part number for 11 inch 5/8 bolt grade 8 zinc coated Hardened steel washers Nylock nuts Also ordered the spindle lock nut from courtesy nissan Still have to order coilovers and find a freaking 300zx non turbo differential. I think the crazy prices on the LSD versions have made people delusional on the non-turbo ones. I really don't want to spend 2-300 on a non turbo differential. Hopefully I can find one soon or a 300zx ends up in a junkyard.

Welcome back!

That's pretty useful. I figured a notcher would be faster, I'll have to give both a shot and see how I feel.

You have to share the suffering stuff too! Looks real good, congrats on the wedding!

Thanks to 88dangerdan I was able to bypass the hurdle. So I ordered up all the material and parts for my rear adjustable LCA and hub rebuild. Just need to order the coilover, the correct length bolt, and the locking nut and I should have all the pieces. Working on figuring out the exact specs for the coilovers. From the information I am gathering I think it will be the BC coilover extreme low kit with 3 bolt bolt in camber plates with 5k springs. I don't expect to be real low, but seems like the standard kit maxes out near my current level of ride height and I would like the option to go a tad lower. So I picked up the jig supplies along with all the tubing. Used tape to get somewhat square cuts (using a death wheel instead of a chop saw) With the pieces cut out I made a negative of the jig. The hard part was replicating the spindle. I just shaved down a square tube until it was approximately the same size as the strut and welded two captive washers. Once that was confirmed, I popped out the control arm for my negative. A forum member kindly sent me his cut off control arm ends so I didn't want to cut mine up just yet, so I flipped the control arm backwards to get me started with measurements. I welded up a couple of the tube adapters and threaded in the rod end with the locknut for the base measurements. Once the control arm takes shape I'll have to build a more complex jig around it to help locate the A arm and the sway bar mount. Once the final jig is complete I'll reinforce it and paint it and then it will be onto the other side.

Friend borrowed my welder, I thought it would be for a day, but I just got it back today. It has been slow progress as I had to go to his house to use my welder, I think there's a seinfield joke in there somewhere. I built a negative off a factory control arm. And with the control arm removed I have a pretty decent starting point. Started welding my tube adapters to the tubes and making measurements for the cuts. I'll have to dig out my tube notcher and chop saw, but hopefully should finish at least the first one next week. After I finish the first one I plan on making alignment points on my jig and measurements to make the second one faster and identical to the first.

I have to shout to talk on the phone while cruising, at full song I doubt I could pickup on any beeping or buzzing telling me to shift.

It looks like it is a couple inches in front of where mine is mounted at which point you are going to run into some problems once you start mounting the fan and radiator. Moving it backwards would probably be a good idea. The weight will be on the subframe so moving it is not a huge deal and the weight distribution shouldn't change. I think the moment might change, but probably for the better if you are just moving the engine back and keeping the mounts the same. Interesting I've never really heard about the solstice transmission before. Honestly the 7mgte has so many mounting holes on the side of the engine that fabricating mounts is really not bad. And seems like you have the capability to fabricate.

The gauge doesn't look too out of place, and the light is just a simple power and ground so you can definitely change it to something a bit less conspicuous, I was thinking a shrouded LED or maybe even a tinted drilled into the dashboard. Warning needs to be said, that is eBay so quality might not be great so beware, it worked ok for my purposes. If you are taking it apart to just use components I would be less worried, keep us informed with how it turns out.

Hmm I don't think there is any real need to get complicated. A cheap eBay tach will have capacity for installation of a shift light. In fact they usually come with one. I believe the 5 inch models will fit directly in the spot where the binnacle is for the factory gauge with a bit of thickening (I used electrical tape wrapped a few times) or with a bracket. The shift light is held on by a ring clamp and can be easily removed and wired remotely. They come with a gaudy light which you can sub out to a small led somewhere discrete if you felt you needed to. Price wise it would also be cheaper then an arduino board as well. Alternatively you could just take the circuity out of the 5 inch tach and have it interface with the stock gauge. My assumption would be that it works as you are describing as it has a switch on the back to work with 4, 6, and 8 cylinder engines. So the circuitry must just have a switch that divides the signal to get the correct actual engine speed based off of the coil input, then as you describe it has a way of triggering a signal once a certain rpm is met. I want to say it was done with a dial so with a potentiometer of some sort maybe to trigger once it passes a certain threshold? My 0.02 hope it helps a bit. Keep us informed. I have an arduino board I'm playing with it really is amazing what those little things can do.

Depends on the condition. If the cylinder walls are worn (no cross hatching) scarred etc then they would need a rebuild and possibly a bore up which would cost more then anything you spend on the block. If the engine includes the head that term is usually called the long block, short block is usually just the lower portion. Can you get compression numbers? Is the head removable for bore inspection? In good condition the l28 may be worth the asking price alone. The l24 is usually only sought by more purists and would not be as desirable since a purist would want a numbers matching motor. If you plan on buying someone else's motor, then I would save the money just incase you need to revisit parts on it, unless the motor is rebuilt and blue printed.

Welcome to the forums! It looks really straight forward. Fuel feeds into one side and exits through the other of the fuel rail. The 6 barbs connects to each of the injectors. For most fuel pressure regulators you run them after the fuel rail so on the return side of the rail install the fuel pressure regulator then return it back to the tank. The fuel should go as follows. Tank - Fuel Pump - Fuel Rail - Fuel Pressure Regulator - Tank. There will be a filter from the pump to the rail in the engine bay, I can't remember if there is one from the tank to the pump in factory form. This is pretty basic to install. If you are quite new to working on cars I highly recommend finding someone who is familiar in your circle of friends/family who can watch over you while you do it as a fuel leak on a Z car can be extremely hazardous given the proximity of the fuel rail to the headers. It would probably be a good idea to include what your post is about in the title. A little brush up with the forum rules will really get you off to a good start. An intro thread would also be nice to give us a little background to who you are and your experience with cars etc. These can be posted to the new members sub forum. Once again welcome to the forums.

Hmm, I would be more likely to believe vapor lock if it was a carb'd car, but with fuel injection and the higher return rate back to the tank that doesn't seem as likely. You can test the fuel pump theory by carrying around a can of starting fluid. Next time it dies, take off the filter open the AFM and spray some starting fluid in it and see if she fires right up. If so, then definitely a fuel starvation problem. Rust in the fuel line or gummed up lines would be the culprit. The fact it dies out of the blue means you ran out of something. Either voltage for powering the fuel pump, fuel pressure, voltage for energizing the coil, or voltage for the ecu. Just have to figure out which one of those is more likely. Get a gauge on the fuel line and I bet when it dies the fuel pressure reads 0. If it doesn't then you have to move onto the electronic bits. You said you replaced the spark, how about the rotor and cap? What condition were the spark plugs in? If you were consistently running out of fuel it would be on the whiter side.

Hmm what wall square tubing did you use? I have a couple sets of control arms and wouldn't mind having a backup set in that fashion as that seems pretty quick and easy to modify. Good to hear that the QA1's held up. I just went with the same size throughout to keep it consistent. I have been hearing and reading more that the rear does not support as much and could get away with using a smaller rod bearing. Picked up all the metal today as well as a brand new tank of welding gas. Only two of the rod ends came in today. Hopefully the other 4 are in the mail. Tube adapters should be arriving this week as well as the final rear wheel bearing. I'm going to call fastenal to see if they can get the bolt I need as well. So on top of the cost so far... 50$ for welding tank refill 33$ for jig building material Still need hardware. So far this is costing me more then a set of TTT arms, still some great fun to look forward to.