seattlejester

Picked up the car this weekend. New knocking noise at low speed, and trans seems loose (shifter quite visibly moves), shop made a new mount, but I suspect a loose or missing bolt maybe, will have to investigate. After reading a bit online, people have said that when faced with similar problems redline MT90 was the solution. Something to do with the fact that the lower weight of the 75-90 at operating temps does not allow it to cling to the gears in the transmission making it grind. Also found suggestions to shift into 5th, then reverse. Will hopefully be able to get the car up in the next few days to investigate the transmission mount and add the new fluid. Newer racing harnesses acquired. Schroth 4 point ASM Profi II I believe. Should make getting buckled up a bit of an easier affair. If the transmission turns out to be ok (still quite suspect), will start on coilovers and seats. Once the bigger ticket items are addressed will move to getting everything squared away: Steering wheel wiring could be a little neater Megasquirt and Fusebox need a more permanent mounting solution Oil Re-locator needs to be mounted better then self tapping screws (maybe studs and nuts) Rear banjo fitting on hydro brake still needs replacement Some kind of removable module for tablet powered dash Shift boot Mounting heater and fans Figuring out front grill and bumper Still need the body work and to hang the new to me doors, but for now it's getting down to the short list. Only thing left to do is plan the next swap just kidding....I think

Just looking for interest, haven't given any thought to price yet.

Hey it happens, just trust us, no one is out to get you, we just need some more cards to play sometimes. Main thing we want to make sure is safety, so as annoying as it is, check the fuel line for any leaks or cracks, depending on where the regulator and pump were installed it could be making its way around. Check the valve cover for any possible oil leaks, any chance you spilled while filling the engine? Trace amounts of oil smoke real well. If you use a 4 psi pump, and the standard fuel rail, you may not need the regulator unless you find the bowls are draining at higher rpm. Gaskets to check, which seems you are already planning: valve cover gasket, intake/exhaust gasket. I actually have a spare fel-pro valve cover gasket if you need one. Do you have access to a wideband o2 and an AFR gauge? That would tell us if you are lean or not. There are some video guides to get to the right ball park including the lifting of the piston method etc. I know I had to play with my adjustment quite a bit from the standard starting place. By flats I'm guessing you have the 6 sided adjustment screw? I would set the idle and sync them up and fatten them up until the car tries to stumble and start around there and lean it out a tad and see if the smoke continues. Your fuel economy might not be great, but if that fixes the problem then that means you were just running too lean. Lean mixtures run real hot which can be real bad. Cooling system is working alright? Water temp holding, radiator fan moving etc? Just to make sure manifold is not wrapped, painted, coated, etc correct? Pre post edit: Found the video that I like, very good explanations and what to expect without the pricier tools. Whole thing is worth watching but he gets into the tuning aspect around 4-5 minutes in, keep in mind ours are slightly different, principles are very much the same though.

Mine isn't triangulated, but even my parallel ones seems to make a difference compared to other stockish cars, granted I have 2x3 frame rails so not sure how applicable my feelings are. With the bracing in the front going to the front sway bar and using a pillared mount for the sway bars, everything is connected. I will have to concede though, those cheap c pillar bars might be bling, I've been able to get a lot of deflection from the cheaper ebay bars just by pulling on them with my bare hands.

Howdy folks, Well I was wondering if there was any interest for a swap kit for the 7mgte motor combined with the R154 transmission. The newer version of my trans mount ended up being able to reach the stock datsun mount for the 70-72 style mounts. Just wondering if it would be worthwhile to take the mount off at some point and make a jig so I can replicate all 3 if needed. Already have pretty close to finished products for engine mount, would have to make the trans mount to have the last one. Specs of the kit: 3 pieces, 2 engine mounts, 1 transmission mount Trans mount bolts in to 70-72 chassis with the bolt up style transmission mount (trans mount not compatible with bolt through style) Engine mounts fit the factory crossmember and rubber insulator so compatible with 70-78 Fully reversible Swap spec: 7mgte engine and R154 transmission Found in MkIII supra's 7mgte engines were assembled with weak head gaskets prone to failure, which as a side effect means many engines are low mile or have had head gaskets replaced with metal head gaskets and ARP studs Relatively cheap to acquire Engine: 3.0 liter displacement, dual overhead cam, factory turbocharged, crossflow head design Transmission: Very beefy transmission, combined with our light chassis, not much work needs to be done, if desired can have transmission rebuilt and upgraded by Marlin Crawler to handle much more abuse Parts are easily available and fairly cheap as the 7mgte was a domestically available motor. Parts needed for the swap: Mounting kit (engine mounts, trans mount) Custom drive shaft (R154 Oil filter relocation kit (mounts pass right through where factory filter would sit) Rear heater out delete I believe an M22 plug, easily acquired from O'reileys as a transmission plug (engine sits right up against the fire wall, coolant for heater could be acquired elsewhere if desired) Custom exhaust and downpipe Lengthening of shifter hole forward or a shifter relocation service available on ebay Honestly just curious.

Relax dude, you didn't give us any info so assumptions can easily be made, NewZed is just trying to clear things up. Not sure why you are up in arms about it, you came asking for help. Take a deep breath. And read on. The exhaust out the tail pipe shouldn't smell sweet per say. By sweet it's closer to almost a caramel or melting sugar type of smell, usually associated with coolant. If your exhaust fumes smell sweet then you might have alternative problems. Although you may not have played with the cooling system, it is possible for the hoses to have have deteriorated. Checking the condition of the hoses and the clamps is a good place to start. If you can replicate the same situation while idling, can you observe if it is coming from the front, the side, the back? What kind of fuel pump did you replace it with? Are you running a regulator? Did you set the carbs after zeroing them out? Have an AFR gauge? If you did everything and checked for obvious leaks and it isn't something easy or silly, it is possible that you leaned out your carbs and that they are in turn making the exhaust temps really hot and burning off old crud from your manifold. Refer to tuning guides to tune the carbs and see how many turns off you are from your starting point.

Had something very similar happen, first time parking on the street, late at night, decided I didn't want to leave the windows down as I saw people walking by. Rolled them up, got a good windup and threw the door as I usually did, then realized, I hadn't tried with the windows up, started reaching for it, but too late, slam, smash. The people walking by just kind of shook their heads. Probably thought I had a bad day. According to Ollie, there was an internal shift, so the precision kits made from a while ago are good, the new kits not so good as they changed suppliers, he said he tests the kits for precision as they are trying to get back to selling good kits instead of restructuring etc, and if you can get them just absolutely perfect, it has the best seal and the most satisfying of closing actions as it just catches. He said it takes roughly 4 hours to install the rear hatch seal and adjust the stops and the hinges to give an estimate of how long it takes to get perfection. Definitely concur, for the door and hatch seals, I would consider the weatherstripping from mcmaster carr or somewhere of the like, Vintage Rubber apparently has better fitting gaskets, but they are very pricey.

^That story is a long story, Oliver sure is knowledgeable. I installed the MSA kit, had the same problems, echoing as above gaps in corners, but sealed from the inside, the customer service insisted it was the lack of the chrome trim, I added that to not much improvement still had gaps, ended up adding seam sealer to bridge the gaps. Rear hatch to body seal did not fit quite right, definitely deteriorating where the hinges are. Door seals were thick, so thick that I had to really force the door closed, hard enough that I ended up shattering my driver side window. I bought the Kia Sportage stuff from a junkyard for the doors for I think 10$? Closes much easier. Car still leaks if left out in the rain too long, have not installed the bottom door seals and such so I can't blame the kit quite yet.

My goodness, those look great!

If the other master cylinder doesn't help try bleeding both lines in pairs. Especially the rear. Random customer at the parts store suggested it for older cars, and it ended up helping. Are you using a vacuum bleeder?

Fixed the oil leak and finally got shadow dash working and took it for a little spin to the muffler shop, car really hauls butt! Right now at waste gate pressure of 7lbs and it's a real hoot. New cables seem to make shadow dash act a little friendlier with the bluetooth sender. Still would like to get msdroid working so I have an alternative option. Just thought I would close with a little tidbit from the tuner. He said while the tabbed hall effect sensor is advertised as being able to read from a distance of up to 5mm, he said in practice he found the limit to be closer to 3mm or so. So don't be like me and assume you have a huge amount of room to play with, take your time and make sure the mount is in close proximity at a perpendicular angle to the trigger wheel. While it is a good idea to not have slots so the mount if ever removed can be put back correctly. Make sure that the sensor mounts exactly where it needs to be before pursuing that avenue.

Clinking noise has been isolated to the forward portion of the transmission, also noted that even with the clutch fully depressed the car can grind shifting into 1st after a bit of a drive, on start up no problems. I bought a new datsun clutch master and new fluid to replace and flush, if that does not fix the problem I fear it does not bode well possibly syncro's may be going. I think the clinking is somehow one of the steps was executed incorrectly in installing the clutch and flywheel given that this transmission has a hub instead of a bearing with several washers and springs, it is not unheard of for a step to have been executed incorrectly. The clutch was not new, so I will have an extensive list of procedures, new hardware, and a replacement flywheel, pressure plate, and clutch ready to go for a small overhaul, possibly maybe look into a transmission rebuild to put all thoughts at ease. Exhaust has been welded, big thanks to Timz for pictures to help with my routing! Unfortunately I ran out of time at my friend's house so I handed the keys to the local muffler shop. I mentioned on the side if they could take a look at the transmission mount, as I really did a piss poor job there, just kind of made it stick to be honest. Turns out the local muffler shop also does some pretty substantial fab work on the side, so they said they would make a new mount and reinforce the transmission tunnel mount as well as add the hanger I did not have time to add as they can fit time in over the next two weeks. Good news is the car will be away for a while so it will give me a chance to clean up my storage locker a bit and maybe request them to take care of other small little things while the car is up in the air, bad news is my wallet is going to take quite the hit. I did manage to get shadow dash up and running with the full exhaust and the rev limit fix, I am seeing a full 7psi before my very reserved up shift, I find it hard to fathom how people drive these cars with more than 300hp, at 230, I already have a grin ear to ear!

Thanks! I shot him a message to see if I could get a picture, will hopefully be able to add my attempt this weekend.

Ah should have checked last night, could have assisted you with trouble shooting. Highly agree with newzed, work on one aspect at a time. Trying to solve multiple problems at the same time will be overloading. Getting the engine to turn over on ether definitely points towards a fuel problem, the clogged filter confirms the problem. You know you aren't getting fuel past the filter, are you getting fuel right behind the filter, if there is no flow, work your way back to the pump, if there is no flow at the pump then it is either a bad pump, or a blocked/short pickup, its just a matter of going back till you can find your problem. Don't mean to point out the obvious, but is there sufficient gas in the tank I know you said you added fuel, how much did you add? Honestly I would drain the tank and clean it out via whatever method you can and flush till clean. The old rock tumbler method, is a good cheap choice. If you want to see if it is the only problem you can try the old drink out of a gas can trick, but you would have to run more lines, or buy an efi fuel pump to try that out. Just stay safe, you are clearing things up, just keep at it.

Thanks, glad to see it's possible. I guess my google fu is not very strong, will continue to search.

Howdy folks, just wondering has anyone routed their exhaust in that slope behind the tool bin? It would be at the lower left of that picture, in front of the rear lower control arm, just a 90* left in this case towards the front of the rear tire.

We learn the same way as well, some pictures or videos of the problems will help go a long way towards diagnosing problems as well. A picture of the car is nice, but a picture of the wiring, engine, etc would be much more useful. If you just added power to the starter the ignition circuit would not be engaging and thus the engine would not start regardless of the starter cranking. Simple combustion. Air Fuel Spark/Timing Compression You have replaced the vacuum lines, did you make sure they were plugged correctly? You seafoamed the tank, do you have a fuel filter inline? How did you check the flow? Did you check that the injectors were firing actual gas? You replaced the spark plugs and wires etc, have you confirmed an actual spark? (I hope this goes without saying, but don't check spark and fuel at the same time) If the car was running before, compression could be less of an issue, although definitely something to check once the other main concerns have been addressed. You can disable the fuel pump and run starting fluid/ether to see if the problem is related to fuel delivery. If you can get the car to turn over on ether, definitely a fuel problem, if the car won't turn over on ether, then either a spark/timing/compression problem. If you are not getting anything with ether, let the fuel vapors evaporate and then test the spark by using an inline tester 5$ at harborfreight, or if you want you can pull the spark plug and leave it on the valve cover/next to a bolt and visually observe spark. If it is not firing, you will have to work your way back to the distributor (rotor and cap, as long as it is not the et distributor), then to the coil, then to the ignition signal for the coil. If it is a fuel supply issue you just have to go as far back until you find the problem. Start at either end and work your way until the fuel stops/starts, take one step back/forward and there's your problem. Most likely will either be a blockage from rust/dirt or a weak/dying pump. The fuel system is easy enough to take apart on these cars. If the engine is flooded, remove the spark plugs and you can let it air out overnight as long as it doesn't rain etc, if you are more in a hurry, you can crank the engine over with the coil disconnected with the spark plug out to push the fluid out, this will get gas everywhere depending on how flooded it is, but if you have indeed really flooded the cylinder there may be a lot of fluid in there. It seems you have an underlying problem if you can't get the starter to crank without bypassing your electrical system, some basic fact checking will help us either rule out or direct your attention elsewhere.

So finally got the car revving past 4k, I threw in the towel and called a local tuner. We went through all of my settings, played around with my pots, and tried some noise elimination algorithms to no avail. Turned out it was just the sensor being too far away from the wheel. A little twist here and a slot there and bam, revs right up to 7k. Unfortunately, the engine is slightly apart again. A pet peeve of mine is a leaking engine, I can't explain how much that bothers me, I don't know why but it really does. The oil level was not dropping noticeably, but after every start there would be a small puddle afterwards. I finally had some time to track it down and found it to be the turbo drain pipe. There really does need to be a special place reserved in hell for the engineer who decided to run a stiff pipe at a 90* angle to studs on the block, and also studs to the turbo. After a couple hours, I decided that the best course of action would be complete removal of the exhaust side as the turbo refused to separate from the manifold. Hopefully I don't strip out any more of the exhaust studs as this motor is prone to do. I replaced the questionable ones with helicoil's but memory says that a few were not replaced as they seemed ok...so hopefully no problems. New gasket set ordered to replace the leaking gasket, will definitely RTV it as well as machine the mating surface to ensure a good fit. A friend I welded a muffler for offered to let me use his driveway, so I ordered up some pipes and mandrel bends and v-bands. Pretty excited to get my welder out again. Only problem is that my transmission being much larger, and the associated mount seems to run a bit too close to the tunnel, and I do not plan on having the exhaust hang low at all, so I may either need to bash the tunnel in a little bit, or perhaps play around with oval piping to pass through the thinner portion. The only other few things to address include the clicking noise coming from either the transmission or the rear of the car, definitely RPM based, but only during loaded driving. Something is clicking against the drive shaft/wheel/half shaft. And a slight ring of moisture around my hydraulic brake is something I have been keeping my eye on, new bolt and washers ordered, but have not noticed a dip in fluid and the brakes feel solid, so not sure if I want to go through all the trouble of bleeding the setup, will have to see.

^I've seen it up a few times in the past couple of months, been wondering the same thing.

It looks pretty clean, but I have yet to see an actually rust free car in washington, there always is some somewhere. The pictures look nice, but he hasn't taken the money shots/the shots that would reveal the problem locations so not sure what to say. I've seen one that had a squirt of paint go for 10k, when I knew underneath it was a train wreck, so the price isn't terrible, I know my konig and tire setup cost a good 800$, so there's some value there, round tops are a nice touch. I had no idea the tach cost so much, guess I should take mine out of the parts bin and put it in it's own box.

Have not driven it quite yet, I believe the turbo drain hose may be loose or leaking. Will get that fixed and take a trip to the exhaust shop, after which much boosting will be done

Excellent! That is exactly how I received my pair, cut off at the strut tube. I have a press I have been eyeing, but I think the air hammer will be a much better idea. Do appreciate the share.

I gave in the towel and called someone in for help, as I definitely believed it was a problem that someone with experience could visually spot. Problem is officially solved, the problem was definitely related to the sensor mount. I made the mount by making a rough measurement, tacking it in place, adjusting and then finishing off the welds. So the sensor was in an acceptable proximity to the edge of the tooth, and in the same plane, but was at a non perpendicular angle, effectively increasing the distance. I imagine the extra length made it more difficult for the sensor to register at higher rpm's when the wheel was moving faster. The guy twisted the mount and I drilled one hole larger to increase the angle adjustment and the engine revved without problems. Big shoutout to Mario from the Dubshop. I'm sure we could have figured it out if I had taken a few more pictures, as this is definitely a case of picture's worth a thousand words, thank you for everyone's input!

Thanks! I have been staring at my spindle pin wondering what to do. I was curious about how the pin was there with no arm, but the frustration making someone cut it off makes sense.

That is really unfortunate. I was hoping that you just lost the sending unit or something of that nature, but if the cam is chipping then you may have a problem. Taking the oil filter apart as well will reveal if you hurt the motor any. Possibilites are pretty much what you state: Bad oil pump (seized etc etc etc) Blockage Insufficient oil Filter failure Broken oil pump shaft