seattlejester

Still not sure I follow. Stock it should be Gauge -->Signal contact of the sender --> Variable resistor -->Ground contact --> ground on vehicle. Where would you propose to add the wire? I mean I read up on all this, and then dumped all the knowledge when I figured it out, but the gist of it was to just buy a matching sender and gauge. The work arounds weren't quite as useful and as RPMS points the sweep characteristic might change and it could be make you miscalculate how much fuel you actually have left. I mean if you were determined to check, pull out a multimeter and see if your theory works. I really can't figure out how you would get that to read correctly with just one wire.

Hmm not sure I follow, you mean if you placed just a piece of wire between the the resistance circuit and bridged that to ground? That would essentially short the circuit and it would read 0 ohms all the time. I could just not be following your logic, but while you can increase or decrease resistance, inverting it is not very easy. Hence the figure in my post above. Would truly be easier to get a new sender or new gauge.

Cylinder number 6 no? Do you have compression numbers prior to when you pulled it? Understandable, most tracks don't allow the use of coolant, but maybe you should flush the water out between race dates and add some evaporust or coolant. That seems to be quite the accumulation. A crack is going to be pretty hard to find if it is hairline. You can try filling the block and see if any water spills into the cylinders overnight. Have you taken a straight edge to see if the mating surfaces have warped? I agree with new zed, a picture of the head gasket by itself might help. Ideally the head gasket should blow before the engine cracks.

You mean wire the sender backwards? I don't think so, it reads resistance, so it reads the resistance in the circuit. It would still have resistance when it empty and none when it is full. Either that or it wouldn't work at all. It's kind of like a switch, doesn't matter if you change the wiring the switch still remains open when open and closed when closed.

There's a lot wrong with that. I wouldn't risk it. There is no mention of welding for installation, it says that it fits the 240-280z which unless it was a fully bolt in system with spindles provided would be difficult as the tubes are different diameter and height. No mention of spring rate or dampening and no pictures. There's quite a few vendors on here that have proven installs and products. BC Coilovers from JPN garage Stance Coilovers from Sakura garage AZC Coilovers from Arizona Z Car Megan coilovers from Mckinney Motorsports Tein coilovers from Tein GC bolt in coiler kit from Techno Toy Tuning

Unfortunately most likely not, unless your gauge is the universal style with the looped wires you can cut. Options... Return gauge and get the correct one? Invert the float on the sender, this only works if there is adequate space, but if you flip the float arm it will in fact read backwards. For the technical solution you would follow option two outlined in this article. http://nutsvolts.texterity.com/nutsvolts/201101?pg=78#pg78 It is quite a bit of work though. Given that it is a single wire resistance reading it isn't easily inverted. If you really didn't want any of that hassle, you could go to the dollar store and buy a sheet of stickers and place an "E" on the "F" spot and vice versa.

Yes It is shadow dash. Hmm, I am not sure that little cover could withhold that much angular strain. I could make brackets on the dash itself. To mount it in the same location. The sun visor idea is not bad at all. It would very elegantly solve my security problem. I would have to test to see how hard it would be to look up vs looking down for info. I wonder if that hinge would supported the extra weight. Maybe a new bracket with a hinge and use the tablet as the visor? Thanks for the thoughts guys, got some things to work on

More wiring done, I think if I revisit it two more times (once for length and routing, once more for fancy molex or weatherproof connectors) I'll be happy. For now I think it's a much bigger improvement. To this Noticed the tie rod boot had ripped, so I ordered a new set of rods, but thought I might as well try out one of the poly boots. Not sure how I like it, but we'll see how it holds up. Now onto the public opinion poll. I'm willing to take thoughts on how I should mount my tablet. Options are... HUD, would need to apply a bit of black tint to increase the daytime usage. Speedo/Tach location Would either just find a way to mount it or for a more permament install would have to cut out the bezel and make a box High mount, next to rear view mirror Center panel, would have to remove my temp, voltage, and time readouts. I'm leaning towards just boxing up the tablet and cutting a square out of the dash where the tach and speedo sit, both the gauges don't work anyway it seems to be the most logical spot. HUD would be nice, but I fear it would be fairly faint during the day, and any person walking by could decide they want a tablet. The other options I haven't really tried. Would love to hear some thoughts on the matter.

MAP is built into MSII. Comes with a 2.5 bar sensor. If you plan on running more then 20lbs of boost then you will want the MAP daddy upgrade TPS really doesn't matter as long as it fits to the intake manifold. Popular and easy is the 240sx, or you can buy an adapter and a universal throttle body, up to you whatever is available really. You can calibrate any variable TPS sensor, just have to make sure it isn't just a WOT switch You have to buy the DIY autotune trigger wheel for the dizzy. The factory dizzy wheel will not work if I remember correctly. As long as the curve is available for the CTS then that should be fine. Install an additional driver for an electronic boost controller. The ECU can control a boost solenoid, might as well take advantage of it. Just FYI, if you title your post tstating that you are aware that the topic has been covered, asking similar questions that have been covered in those threads is a bit silly. Do some more reading, the more you know the easier the install will go.

My reluctance with adding brake setup as well is that then it becomes like a whole setup thread instead of a wheel fitment thread. Oh yes, the rub part is important. Some people don't mind it and aim for it, others really dislike it, that's a good category.

It used to be a thing to fill the shock body with oil to provide extra cooling for the strut. Maybe some oil spillage from there? 350 is pretty high for the front. Curious to see how long the stock rails hold. I know some people like hard suspension, but if you go too hard in our chassis it will find somewhere else to flex, most likely a spot that wasn't designed to. Would be wise to inspect for cracks after a while to see how the chassis likes that level. Seems like your projects moving along at a pretty good pace, good luck sir.

My 0.02 I think it would be helpful to add info in addition explaining the list, as I have seen threads on forums, where people are unsure and they skip or leave it blank. It would be nice if we had a rule where you cannot post until you have all your numbers/info, just so it has more complete entries. Wheel Brand: Who made your rim? If you have a model name or number that would be great Size: In inches. Usually found on the rear of the wheel this will be two numbers: diameter followed by width, on some rims, the number may be in reverse, please correct and post in diameter by width format (e.g. 17x8). If you feel the wheel may be wider then advertised, break out the measuring tape . Offset: This is the distance from the hub center, this is usually provided in two numbers either as a + or - number or a inches of backspacing number. Please convert the number into mm. + numbers refer to the hub face being further outboard from the center of the rim, - numbers indicate the hub face being further inboard from the center of the rim (e.g. 8 inch rim with 0 offset has 4 inches of back spacing and is 4 inches from the the rear of the hub to the edge of the rim. 8 inch rim with -25 offset has 3 inches of backspacing). The conversion factor is 1 inch = 25.4mm. The offset number is usually stamped on the back of the wheel, if it is unavailable, next time you take your wheel off, flip it over and measure from the back of the mounting face to the edge of the rim in a vertical fashion, that is your back spacing. Take that number convert into mm and subtract half of the rim width that is your offset in mm. Spacers: Y / N Fenders: stock, rolled lip, flares Springs: stock, aftermarket or coilovers, brand would be very helpful Control arms: stock or adjustable Camber Plates: Y / N Camber specs: if available Ride height: we should pick a common point like the distance from the rocker to the pavement, some piece of bodywork that most people don't change. Tires Brand: Model : Size:

Very pretty, glad your still around sir!

Just looking at the vacuum lines is probably insufficient, a small slit or crack is awfully hard to find. Try the carb cleaner trick and see if the RPM's kick up at idle If the timing issue has been solved, which still not 100% sure it is (have you put it at top dead center and checked the cam position and the distributor clocking angle), then it does fall onto more of a fuel issue. Like with all help threads, can we get some positives? Have you looked at the fuel filter to see if it is letting sufficient fuel in? A simple test would be to pop it off and try to blow through it. What state are the spark plugs in? I suspect awfully whitish or light grey. Sufficient gas present in the tank? Keep the info coming, and try not to drive it too much, if it is popping and lurching because it is running lean you can hurt the motor if you put it under load under that condition.

And peoples definition of fitment can vary oh so very much. I think a 7 or 8 inch wheel with a 225 tire 50 sidewall in 0 offset fits pretty well for a non flared car. I've also had conversations where someone says their 9 inch wheel -15 with a 205 stretched with larger amounts of negative camber fits well on a non flared car. Kind of really depends on what you are going for.

Yea has to be closer then that, the info sheet on DIY says up to a 5mm gap, my tuner tested it on a drill press and said he had to get much closer then 5mm to get the sensor to read reliably maybe the total distance includes the valleys? If you shaved the nut that's spacing it a bit you should be able to get closer. Seems like it is angled a bit? See if you can get it more in line with the wheel.

Edit: nevermind I just got your question. Yes you could route both breathers to a dual port catch can. You just have to make sure the catch can is one with a dual inlet instead of a single inlet and a relief outlet. I think my Moroso catch can is that type, dual inlet, filter on top with baffles, and a drain at the bottom. You would have to make sure you block the vacuum source for the PCV since that would be a big air leak. From an emission/efficiency standpoint, your shop teacher is correct, the vacuum helps pull the oil vapors from the crank case and then burns it up via the combustion cycle. Some reading says that the movement of the crank is enough to move some of it out. Without having the catch can hooked up to a vacuum source, you essentially are going to start building a collection of oil instead of having the oil burn through the combustion cycle. Each has it's own merits, without it going through the intake, it has less of a chance of depositing itself and coating the intake tract, with it going to the intake you have a sealed system, no chance for exterior contaminants to enter the oil system.

Problem is variance between tire and rim manufacturers. Some companies have very very loose grasps on the specs. I had a tire in a 205 that was wider then a 225 in another manufacturer, even when you go to buy tires, the seller will usually comment on some manufacturers running wide. I imagine rims are a little more easily verified, but tires especially vary quite a large amount. In board offset determination would be very easily verified, outboard would be more problematic. You could generate some pretty good guidelines via crowd sourcing if everyone went out and physically recorded their setups, but if they just reply with the written specs you may run into some trouble.

89621-30020 is what I found. Do your own research though, could be wrong. Call toyota or refer to the FSM to look up the part number. Seems like it was used in several toyota vehicles of the era, there's some listings on Ebay saying that it is from the JDM model, so if you are worried about compatibility and don't want to spend any time making sure I would grab one of those. Or a quick phone call or trip to the local dealer might be more helpful. Even if the guy doesn't know if you give him the model and year to start with, or the part number above he should be able to trace the cross references to come up with an answer. http://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-TOYOTA-2JZ-GTE-VVT-i-IGNITER-SUPRA-ARISTO-1JZ-GTE-89621-30020-/161505883681?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item259a803621&vxp=mtr

Been using a HF helmet for 3 years now. Works pretty well, and as Jon said if it goes bad another 50$ and you are back in the game. Mine is also starting to flash, probably best to consider replacing mine as well.

Yes, take a picture of your mount, hall effect sensor has to be real close.

There was a guy selling a 280zx with snowflakes including the car for 450, and I've seen a set of refurbished snowflakes all polished and repainted go for 500. Unless they are in surprisingly good condition, 200 should be about what to expect.

Welcome back. Just for your info, you are skirting on a lot of rules, I would suggest you familiarize yourself with them if you are unsure. They are located in the announcement section. If you can prove the condition via receipts from the machine shop etc it would help bolster the price, granted L24 aren't desired as much as the bigger displacement L28 unless the numbers were matching to a specific car. The parts on it are pretty decent, a solid stage one upgrade. You might be able to get more parting it out then whole unless someone in your area wants that exact combo. Machined E88 head 2-400 depending on work and condition Round top SU 250ish is what I sold mine for, and I had a few offers. They go for that much on ebay usually. 280zx dizzy 25-100 depends on if you find someone who needs it, but doesn't have access to a junkyard. Headers 100-250 haven't seen that specific style maybe worth more or less depending on history. I would start off at 1k and see where it goes. I know my rebuilt motor had a hard time selling for around that price and I was throwing in a transmission. Seems like you don't have too much money in it, so even if someone bought it right away you wouldn't be at any huge loss.

Do you really mean like an ex-drift car? Or are you just pointing out the chassis is associated with drifting? If you are looking for a specialty shop, then drift office specializes in the ae86, they could probably set her straight with whatever she needed. I'll echo 280zex above, haven't found too many shops I would take my car too in Seattle. They have some reputable machine shops, but haven't found many mechanic shops. My personal recommendation is Dan Fast in Bellevue, they've never done me wrong, I've been back several times for a variety of work. They are busy though, so if it isn't a quick fix or they have to order the part it might take a few days. I mean if it just died then it could be something as simple as a new battery/alternator/starter if she could find out then it would be a super easy fix to whatever shop you took it to as long as you went with the parts so they can't gouge you on parts charges. Couple bolts in a RWD platform really. If she is not mechanically inclined I would hop on hachiroku.net and ask around, most of the forum members are located here and would probably be willing to lend a hand if not recommend a place where they would go to. Anyone with a multi meter and jumper cables could check in a few minutes really.

^Very true. Worst case, spun your bearings and you have rod knock. Engine needs to be disassembled, parts inspected, repaired/replaced, reassembled. Best case, simple valve train noise. These aren't new engines they have a slight tick to them. And it can be anything in the middle....mistimed cam, bad valve adjustment, oil starvation, loose engine mount, poorly fitted fuel pump, dropped valve. Hard to guess. Record a video. Tell us the circumstances leading up to the development of the knock. Drain the oil and run a magnet through the oil and take a picture and show us if it picks anything up. Other then that it's a pure guessing game.