DAW

Richard, I went with the 75W-90 synthetic and I put in half of a tube of LSD additive. I'll go to 140 if I autocross it next summer. One thing that has me wonderring...I was under the car turning the crank to get the timing mark visible (yes, it's on the flywheel viewed through an opening in the bottom of the flywheel cover)...and there was a huge amount of motion of the driveshaft possible without any movement of the wheels. My first impression was that there was excessive backlash of the ring/pinion and I dreaded looking inside. When I pulled the cover and checked the lash it was reasonable (under 0.010"), but I noted the Torsen helical gears seemed to have a lot of up-and-down movement which allowed lash before the side gears moved and this is where the "slop" came from. The car drives fine and makes no noise from the diff. Maybe this is normal for a Torsen and I'll have to resaerch it further but I wondered if you have noted something similar? DAW

260DET, what fluid do you run in the Torsen? I have one in one of my non-Z cars (Maserati) and I'm changing the fluid. I'm planning on using Quaker State synthetic 75W-90 GL-5 which states it is formulated for LSD diffs as well as open diffs. I read in the link you posted that the manufacturer of your Torsen recommends Penzoil 90 synthetic plus LSD additive. I had wondered if, based on the non-clutch operation of the Torsen, if an LSD additive/modifier would even be necessary or useful. Any recommendations, and have you had temperature problems? I'm not going to spend the $850 for the large sump with pump available for my car (for street use), but it doesn't seem difficult to add a small oil cooler/reservoir plumbed into the drain plug hole as a passive system to disperse fluid heat. Thanks in advance, DAW.

Thanks Clifton, I appreciate the input. I'm now certain I'm not going with two bov's now...but I don't think I'll be able to resist installing the one on the side without A/C plumbing. It's probably overkill but I don't see a down side. I already have the valve, it can only help efficiency, and if I dump it to the atmosphere instead of recirculating it the engine mgmt should be slightly biased toward enrichment when the throttle is reapplied due to some metered air being lost, but calibrated-for re fuel ratio. Anyway, this car is FUN! Those crazy Italians dedicated a hairpin-turn length of pre-muffler exhaust pipe just to balance the exhaust note with the other pipe and it sounds great. A little bov note interspersed when the exhaust note falls will just be more nice music; for the sake of the art of the motore. DAW

I have a twin-turbo (non-sequential) V6 (Maserati) that did not come with factory compressor by-pass valve (bov). I was going to install a bov in each intercooler outlet pipe before they join into the Y-pipe just before the throttle plate. I planned on using 1st gen DSM bovs and elbow pipes. I'm now thinking that it makes little sense to mount 2 bovs because if even one bov is in either of the intercooloer outlet pipes, it should equalize pressure relief almost instantly between both turbos/cyl banks and the single throttle plate. I'm leaning towards installing just one bov, in the intercooler outlet plumbing that's most accessable. This is a street driven car that might rarely see an autocross. I appreciate your thoughts on this and although not a Z-car it might be useful to others with non-sequential twin turbo engines. DAW

Like fl327 said, check out that solenoid. Often it will be corrosion, or just looseness, at the nut that afixes the solenoid connection to the motor. Loosen it if you can, wire brush it, and retighten it. It's very common to have 12 volts to the solenoid from the positive battery cable but lose voltage due to corrosion from the solenoid to the starter motor itself. DAW

There are many engines out there that would make great transplants for a hybrid Z but the front-sump make these impractical. For some engine swaps into the PL510 they flip the front crossmember around to accommodate the front sump. Has anyone out there used an alternative crossmember, maybe with the steering rack behind the crossmember and alternate steering arms (like the 280ZX's use) to be able to fit a front-sump engine? I just bought an '87 Maserati Biturbo Spyder (38,000 miles, twin intercooled turbos, arrest-me red) and the engine looks like it could go well into an early Zcar if it weren't for the oilpan sump. DAW

If you're going to do what you're thinking about doing...yes you should set up your 2800cc L6 turbo like a 2800cc turbo is set up. First off, it would be better to use a '75-'76 N42 head rather than a '77-'79 N47 head because the N42 has square exhaust ports like the P90 turbo head does, which will best match the turbo manifold ports. As to engine management, to run a turbo and keep the engine together you need ignition retard/knock sensor capability and larger capacity (turbo) injectors which is why others are recommending you just use an L28ET engine; because you have the benefit of qualified automotive engineering included in your purchase price...it's more complicated to piece-meal bits of expertise in order to patch together a half-baked chimera of a home-grown turbo engine. DAW

I don't think you should consider rolling up and down Lexan or plexiglass windows because they will be destroyed. What works well is a window that is hinged on the top, with a brace/opening-strut on the bottom so that you can push the window open from the bottom about 3-4" and it stays open held by the brace. This lets in a significant amount of ventilation when the car is in motion. As a supplement, you can attach an aircraft plexiglass rotating vent onto the window which is adjustable to let in air, but not rain, either passively, or as a scoop for forced-air if oriented directly into the slipsteam. I had this set-up on my antique airplane and it was simple but very effective. Check out Univair in Colorado for such parts. Simplicity and function over form are great in practice...whenever I landed on a very short dirt strip in various Mexican destinations, I requested my passenger open their door, as I was busy doing, so as to create drag...F-15's use spoilers; same concept. DAW

One of my favorite cars is my '82 Euro-market 230CE. For those who don't know (which would have included me before I bought it), it's a W123 series coupe with a 2.3L large-bore, short stroke 4cyl., f.i. and it has 4spd A/T. Gearing is 2.24 which means it shifts into 4th at 84 mph on the Autobahn when it's time to cruise for awhile. I love this car in spite of the German-language owner's manual and the complete unavailability of parts outside of Germany. I just had to fabricate a complete custom exhaust system for it which included a Car Chemistry "pre-muffler" to get the results I wanted. I'm putting in a 2.88 differential so that it will shift into 4th on American roads. Anyway, that's not the point. I just bought a '82 380SEC for $500 (low Blue-book is $9,000). Great car but when the timing chain began slapping due to fragmented plastic chain-guides the previous owner should have realized something was amiss befor the valve train crashed leaving rocker arms scattered about and valves bent that won't close... as I'm tearing down the engine, I realize...hey, this is an aluminum-block V8 that is a very upright design (low-width) and it is mechanically sophisticated (with an uncanny resemblence to the Nissan L-series heads)...if it weren't for the front-sump this would be a killer transplant into a Z-car. It comes in 3.8, 4.2, 4.5, 5.0, 5.6, and 6.9 versions. Has anyone considered this engine source for a hybrid-Z? BTW, to solve my 380SEC project I just bought, on E-bay, a 3.2 dohc Mercedes V6 complete engine for $450. (From what I've seen, it's worth 10-times that.) Any experience using Mercedes powerplants in early Z-cars? BTW, I also bought a 2.8L dohc inline 6-cyl/trans to potentially transplant. These things are like a work of art. Lots of engineering devoted...Zen and the Art of Z-car Hybridization is the means; and the end. DAW

I donated, so why doesn't it indicate me as a "donating member"? DAW

Has anyone on this site ever compared head gaskets from L28/LD28 to Mercedes 2.8L dohc inline 6cyl. (vintage 1970's)? Similarities between Datsun and Mercedes inline engines are documented and archived and they are striking. I recently bought a Mercedes dohc inline 2.8 6 cyl. If it weren't for the front sump, I'd be working on putting it in a Zcar but I might have to settle on putting it in the Datsun 910 (diesel Maxima) when I pull that LD28/N42 hybrid gas engine to swap pans and put it in an early Zcar. I'd be tempted to put the 2.8 6cyl in my '82 230CE (Euro model), but it's a great car as-is, with the 2.3 4 cyl, euro cam and c.r., etc. I just need to swap-in a 2.88 for the 2.24 so it will shift into 4th gear below 80mph (it's geared for Autobahn at present, i.e., 120 mph). DAW

I'd been watching for a set of budget lightweight 5-lug alloy wheels with the proper offset to use on a street driven Zcar and wanted a set from a find a set for the right price. I did come up with an alternative that I bought on E-bay for $200 for the set and I thought I'd pass it along. what years have these and it may just be the have the correct bolt circle, but they are as light or lighter than most aftermarket alloy wheels so if you're on a tight budget and using 5-lug conversion they are worth a look. DAW

BTW, removing the "lights are on" lady module will screw up your stereo because the module is wired through a couple of the speakers. If you pull the module, you need to jumper the connector to get your stereo working right. I'm looking around for the module I pulled out of the Maxima because my son just started driving and drivers ed makes them turn the headlights on whenever they drive (then they get left on). I'd like to get a module from a JDM car (anyone?) so that he knows he did something (door ajar, lights on, seatbelts, etc) but has to figure out what it is (or learn Japanese). DAW

I think you should take it to small claims court but don't use an attorney (some of these courts don't allow counsel anyhow). Just do it pro se, most of the forms are standardized and available from the website of the county clerks office (most likely district court clerk). Photograph the block to have exhibits and put two small levels along surfaces of block and stud to demonstrate that there is not a 90 degree relationship as there should be. Use some of these posts as exhibits because these are opinions grounded in extensive experience and its unanimous that the machine shop did shoddy work and owes you a properly prepared block. Get a couple of price quotes from ebay sales (don't disclose the free block offer) to represent the price of a serviceable block (get 3 winning bids for comparable blocks; the highest $ you can find). You might find some restitution through the court and it's probably worth a shot. Nothing ventured; nothing gained. The shop owner stands to be humiliated and his shop's reputation ruined so he might magically pipe up with $200 if you drop the action you initiate. Some courts have an advocate you can make an appt with for free advice. I would go for a $ reimbursement rather than having them "fix it." Don't have them touch anything else, they will likely screw up again. As to your block, Jon had a suggestion that might be feasable in removing the helicoils and using larger bolts. When I grafted the L28 N42 head onto the LD28 shortblock that I'm running, I had to drill all headbolt holes larger to accommodate the 12mm bolt size of the LD28 block vs the 10mm bolts of the L28 block. I used some of the LD28 headbolts and used some BMW headbolts (jy) where needed since some of the LD28 headbolts are different lengths than the L28. The thing I'm not sure about is if the L28 block will accommodate the 12mm bolts OK since the LD28 has a bit more metal due to the 84.5mm bore (86mm for L28). If it were me, I'd probably take the photos of damage done, then try to work with what you have by heating the stud, slipping a piece of 1/4" pipe over the stud and bending it upright using a builder's square on the block, then trying to quench the stud to keep hardness. I'm sure there will be input as to why this is a bad idea but I'd try that rather than any more machining or welding of the block or head. Best case is you can use the block and you end up with a bit of money from small claims court award to compensate for the PITA it all was. DAW

Did you happen to see the winning bidder price one the new-in-boxes Nissan G-nose headlight covers with trim rings on e-Bay recently? $600! DAW

How's the width of the track compare? How about the rear clip components? It's crossed my mind as well (AWD S30), and I think it would be great. I'd personally be thinking a lighter engine, either 4cyl or alloy-block 6 or 5 cyl. DAW

So I've been running my kids around to school, soccer practices, etc, etc, for a few years in my "mule," a which I adapted an N42 head to (10:1 c.r., gasoline fuel; 140mm rods, 83mm stroke, and other components). It runs fairly strong with a stock '78 efi/ECM analog mgmt system with minor tweaks and a header. I've heard it ping slightly only once and that was due to a bad tank of gas (always premium) and I'm seriously considerring converting to a low-pressure turbo (intercooled) and running the high static c.r. because I think that's the next best performance upgrade (rather than adding a bigger n.a. cam). The "sleeper" persona of the car would be better-suited to the quietness afforded by the turbo vs the resonance of the headers. I would start-out with a stock '82 L28ET ECCS engine mgmt system and L28ET injectors. I did this project with the sole intent of transferring the engine into a '72 240Z that's still waiting, but it has worked so well that I just started driving it when I took one of my other cars off the road for repairs/upgrades, etc., plus I've found there's still room for refining this project hybrid L6 engine before transfer. The other issue is the trans. Presently, I have the 3 spd A/T with lock-up convertor. However, the A/T with locking convertor and I have one of those to use but I'm not sure if the trans transfer is worth the trouble. BTW, if anyone is considerring doing what I've done, the a boss in the block used for a small oil drain to the pan that would easily convert to a dipstick for use with a rear/mid-sump pan to put the engine in an early Z-car; the earlier this boss. Why use an of an L28 block? For the same reason Nissan increased the block ht. of the L18 to that of the L20B they increased the stroke, it was either increase block ht or use a used a taller block. Once the compression hts of pistons have hit rock-bottom, there is no where else to go except to use a taller block. I guess I'm writing this to see if there's input re the choice to go with a low-pressure turbo at static 10:1 c.r. vs going with a performance cam. Given the ease of slapping on a turbo vs setting up a cam, I think I already know what I'll do, especially since it's auto trans. More specifically, what are the thoughts on using the cam when I convert to turbo, and am I correct in thinking I might want to drop the cam timing back from slightly advanced to stock or slightly retarded for turbo? Has anyone had experience with turbo-ing a 10:1 L6 -head engine, or is this new ground? DAW

I guess if one is using a hybridized engine and uses the designations of the components to label it then they should make that clear to avoid confusion. For example: "LD28/L28ET hybrid" for LD28 bottom half, L28ET top half, or "B23F/Aq171/B234F/B2004ET hybrid" for a Volvo B23F block, Penta Aq171 crank, pistons & rods, B234F head, B2004ET exhaust manifold/turbo. The same should apply for the Mitsubishi hybrids and all the others. So we should agree that, at least on this site, engine designations should be factory designations for the engine and hybridized engines need quotes and the word "hybrid" within the designation to avoid confusion. DAW

I think I'm going to do an off-the-wall hybrid just to see if I can make it work...as the base, or more likely piece together my own version with block, crank and pistons (2.5L with stock bore), B234F (or ) 16-valve head (use aftermarket belt tensioner from Aus to use B23F block), Volvo Motronic engine mgmt. If I can get a turbo manifold from Europe (used on the 16-valve head for turbo 2L cars there) I'll make it turbo; if not, na. I'll use stock Volvo B234F intake, f.i., etc. I've been toying with this idea for awhile and just found a 16-valve head for $100. The parts are spread out enough that I'll probably need to pick up pistons here; rods there, etc. Ithe Volvo and might do this for a 510 as well if it works in the Z. I'm just going to use the Volvo 4spd A/T for starters to make it easier because the 5spds in the rwd cars are scarce compared to Europe.

Yesterday I picked up a Sylvia viscous LSD diff, including the entire rear subframe, which I paid $200 for on Ebay. I stole it from him and he never even flinched, never told me what a great deal I got; not a word. So, for those of you in the Northwest, his name is Garrett Hoboy, Advantage Imports, Anacortes, WA, (360)542-1272, and he's got JDM front clips in stock (Skylines, Sylvias, Supras) as well as diffs, transes, seats, wheels, etc. Prices seemed reasonable to me, around $2500 for a complete front Skyline clip with an RB20, or a Sylvia with an SR20. A pair of Prelude seats for $100 which need some brackets seems like a good price...as above, I think he's the kind of person to buy from. I'm always looking for an interesting OHC powerplant to Hybridize a Z but I'm not willing to invest a lot of time into oil pan sump modifications. I just want to drop in something and spend my time tuning it instead of deluding myself that it's a good fit. The RB20's that I saw looked a lot like the L6 from the oil pan view but I can't seem to reconcile the power/wt of an RB20 vs that of an L28ET when the cost and effort is factored in; I'd rather build a turbo 4 cyl to drop in for the sake of handling. From what I've read within this post, it sounds like the RB30 may be a taller-blocked spin-off of the RB20 in order to preserve rod/stroke in the larger displacement engine, so I'm going to search it out to see what the RB30 has to offer. DAW

I have an LD28E that I drive and I'm building an LD28ET but they didn't come from Nissan configured that way. They are SOHC. DAW

I'd be interested in some G-nose headlight covers as I'm sure others who already have G-noses would be. They are scarce. The trim ring is what gets expensive, but a lexan cover trimmed with chrome door-edge guard would look pretty good at 1/50 the price of a trim ring. DAW

Law enforcement doesn't necessarily imply gumshoe with coffee and doughnut in hand. If you are drawn to it then go for it; but not in some half-baked manner. If you are going to be a bear; then go for being a grizzly bear. Think FBI, anti-terror CIA, etc. Push yourself hard. If you fail, so what? At least you tried your best. DAW, MD

I was sizing up box-type fenders from a spare '87 Starion ESI-R for use on a 280ZXT and it appears a reasonable graft; but won't work on a 240-280Z. DAW

Try mayonnaise or Goop. DAW