DAW

I have a single 2-barrel carb manifold that I took off of a stock JDM L26 motor. I'm thinking of using it to simplify an LPG fuel conversion. Adapters for Weber 32/36 carbs to substitute for stock Hitachi carb are plentiful as they fit L18 and L20B intakes as well. PM me if you want to buy this manifold, it would make a great economy set-up for an early Z car. DAW

The engine is going to strangle on the small exhaust valves in the e31 head. If the E88 was from an L26 it has the same size exhaust valves as an L28 N42/47 head. Regardless, you want a set of exhaust valves from one of those heads transfered into your E31 head (the E31 seats can be ground to accept the larger exhaust valves). I've run that combo (dished L28 bottom with E31 head) just for a street engine...it's OK, but nothing great (a stock F54 flat-top piston with stock P79 head is better). BTW, stock E31's have soft intake valve seats...are you planning on running unleaded fuel? New rings are way down on the list re priorities here. DAW

I have run a 10:1 F54/N42 head (square exhaust port) combination with the stock cam but only because the SCCA Solo II BSP rules restricted the cam as stock. The combination is definitely prone to pinging but I used octane booster, conservative timing, rich mixture on the sidedrafts, etc., and got by. The cranking pressure is around 210 last I checked. In spite of "detuning" for the combination to protect the engine, I still won BSP when I ran that combo. I'd recommend using the best condition N47 of the two you have (regardless of liner status) and get a cam (it doesn't have to be huge, anything will be an improvement over stock). Unless you cam it, then stick with the P79 and maybe mill it (conservatively, like 0.015" and use Head-Saver shims under the cam towers). You have inherently better quench with the P79 chamber design and will be less prone to pinging with the stock cam and you'll only be at around 9:1, not 10:1, so you'll be less prone to pinging anyway and probably won't need octane booster (but at the expense of some responsiveness and power). I have another 10:1 L6 engine with an N47 head which doesn't ping but it has longer rods (140mm) and longer stroke (83mm) than the L28 (figure that one out). Both of the high compression engines with N series (non-Maxima N42/47) heads I advanced the cam timing a couple of degrees. DAW

The rear brackets were more of a problem than the fronts for me. I'd buy a pair of rears brackets that were bolt-on. The fronts were easy for me. Basically, I gutted the 5mph bumper shocks on my 280Z, re-bolted the bracket/shock housing to the stock location, stuck an early bumper with the early brackets bolted to it (the brackets fit inside the cylindrical shock housings), and welded in place. I did another conversion on a 280Z where I adapted aluminum bumpers from a Fiat X1/9 front and rear.......again, the rears were a bigger pain. Just removing the stock 5 mph shocks/brackets on the rear is more involved than the front. On the front, I cut down the Fiat bumper mount plate/shock inner cylinder, transfered that stump to the 280Z outer shock cylinder and weled it in place when I had it mocked-up. I scrapped that body but I still have the set-up and aluminum bumpers if anyone wants to buy it; shipping would be reasonable. I was never that pleased with the way I did the rear conversion, so you are on your own for that one, but I cut-down some '78 280Z side of bumper rubber trim boots to fit (basically, I removed a length of the bellows section). These bumpers are a ton lighter than 280Z stock bumpers, while retaining the rectangular profile of the '77-'78 bumper look and they don't stick out {disadvantage is that you can no longer set up a picnic lunch on the front and rear tables where the stock bumpers stick out}. Either way, 240Z bumper conversion or Fiat X1/9 aluminum conversion, it was the rear mounting which was the bigger PITA. DAW

Tony D, Thank you so much for responding to my post. You just saved me a lot of grief. I do like the idea of the JDM taxi LPG L6 fuel supply/vaporizer set-up, if nothing more than to convert initially to LPG (the engine I'm converting is already 10:1 as-is). [it's my '82 Maxima that I'd be doing this to and maybe they used Maximas for taxis in Japan?] To keep things more simple, I didn't mention it's my Maxima or that it's a LD28 that I converted from diesel to gas by adapting an N42 head, which is where the 10:1 comes from. I just use this car as a rolling test bench for some of my hair-brained (or is it hare-brained?) ideas. It has headers, stock '75 L28E cam and it runs very well on gasoline. For an MPI delivery system I'd like to keep it on a tight budget, but I guess I can buy Megasquirt. Any idea if I could modify/recalibrate one of my spare L28 ECU's for LPG so that I could mount that LPG ECU next to the gas one and just swap the large main efi connector from one ECU to the other when using either gas or LPG? On the dual fuel (LPG or gasoline) set-up, where or how are the two fuels chosen and fed to the fuel rail? A manual valve? Solenoid-valves? How would LPG pressure regulation be done? Thanks again Tony. DAW

You are using the start enrichment circuits on the carbs (all three should share a common actuating cable which runs inside to a pull-knob in order to cold-start the engine)? DAW

Are you using a stock steel fuel log (with the return line, like the original SU-style Hitachi side-drafts used)? If not, try that and make sure you have a patent return line back to the tank (it has a small orfice which regulates return/supply pressure). DAW

I'm kicking around the idea of adapting an L6 to run on LPG. For reasons of my own I'll be using LPG and not CNG so the choice of fuel isn't the subject of the thread; only the distribution of LPG to an L6. I'd like to do the conversion itself as simply and cost-effectively as possibe. The engine is a 10:1 2.8L with a beefy bottom-end and an N42 head. It is na at present with a basically stock L28E efi set up from a '76 280Z (some minor enrichenning tweaks to the system; but stock components). If it runs well on LPG with the 10:1 cr, then I may add a stock L28ET turbo system (and run low-pressure turbo) to extract more energy from the LPG fuel. The question I'm posing here is the choice between two very different intake manifold/fuel delivery approaches: 1) the efi manifold with LPG distributed through the injectors; and 2) a single 2-barrel downdraft L6 (JDM) manifold with a progressive secondary carb (Weber 32/36) with the typical LPG carb-adapting set up. The single carb manifold's unique factor has appeal, but the efi manifold is on there already and if it would distribute fuel better, I'd stay with the efi. I'm assuming that a LPG/air mixture won't have the same degree of atomization/variable distribution that a gasoline/air has and one of my questions re the manifold is what effect, if any, the plenum size and runner configurations might have with LPG that may be different than a gasoline engine. The single carb manifold basically has no plenum and is a 1-into-2-into-3 arrangement (cyls 1-3/4-6); while the efi manifold is a large plenum 1-into-6 arrangement with single-plate throttle body. I'm wondering how the manifolds would differ in driveability and performance using LPG. Would the carb manifold give better throttle response? Obviously, with gasoline/air, the better flow of the efi manifold at mid to high rpm would be the better choice; but how would the smaller volume single carb manifold perform with LPG/air (especially when forced induction is applied)? Should I consider a 4-barrel Holley manifold? If I go with the single carb manifold should I run a mechanical secondary 2-barrel or adapt a large single barrel carb or a single throttle plate to the manifold? Maybe the long runner/large single plenum manifold adapted from an LD28 would work better than the L28E intake? The single carb manifold was on a JDM L26, and the 2.8L displacement might be sucking on a straw through it (even with forced induction). The single carb manifold might be better-suited to conversion of a L24 to LPG rather than a 2.8L. This car will be street-driven and efficiency and driveability are more important factors here than is all out performance at the expense of efficiency. BTW, the car is A/T (I don't know if that matters or not re manner of LPG fuel distribution or driveability using LPG). DAW

Shaun, I have a very nice, completely stock (except for Hella H4 headlights) '72 240Z which I am about to advertise for sale here in the Seattle area. It has a clean title. It is an A/T car which I pulled the stock engine/trans out of in order to replace it with a stock '83 280ZX turbo engine/trans (A/T). I have many car projects and just didn't get around to doing this one although I do have the complete L28ET and A/T assembly here complete with OEM wiring harness and ECU computer, and would like to sell it with the car as a package. The engine swap is a drop-in and makes for a fast car (even without an intercooler) and there is a lot of potential for a super fast car with some minor tweaks. I have a '75 280Z with an L28ET in it and it was faster on the track than the stock brakes could handle even before I added an intercooler and raised the boost. The 240Z is a little lighter but will still need bigger brakes with an L28ET engine. I'm going to post an ad on Seattle Craigs List with photos within the week. I need to sell several cars ASAP. I also have a red/black leather '87 Starion ESI-R 5spd which has Suspension Techniques sway bars, front stut-tower crossbar, rear crossbar with integrated battery tray (TEP), Tokico Illumina struts. Stock G54B turbo with K&N filter and blow-off valve installed. I also have a Sirrius DASH Turbo head and turbo exhaust manifold in excellent condition which I has going to build a G64 engine with but I'd sell that head/manifold as well, if you know anyone interested. First $1,800 cash for the 240Z with the L28ET/turbo A/T assy. First $2,200 cash for the ESI-R. First $500 cash for the DASH head/turbo manifold assy. Dave drdavidmom@aol.com

Hi, Do you still have these body parts? Not likely that I'd get up to BadAxe in the near future (although I'm pretty sure I've been there in the past), so I'd have to have them shipped to Tacoma, WA, but I've found that parts like this can be shipped relatively cheaply via Greyhound Freight. Let me know. Thanks, Dave

I'd rather see a 380-560 SEC with extensive mods, gutted and lightened. They already come with aluminum hoods and decklids. I have one that has a valvetrain-crashed SOHC V-8, aluminum blocks and heads, forged pistons (3.8L) and '80's compression ratio of 8.2:1 or something.........twin turbo anyone? Hell, the GM A/C compressor I took off was a boat anchor, the bracket for it, another. A/C low pressure line routing next to and in insulated jacket with fuel line to temperature-control fuel for CIS. Those Germans, always thinking. DAW

The L-Z (and KA) series have a different installed angle altogether and you can't put a stock L-Z or KA trans directly to your 4 or 6 cyl L engine without the shifter being off to an extreme angle for that same reason. You should be able to fix it using the appropriate engine mounts though.

Awsome Austin- that's what I'll call you...nice workmanship throughout. An initial paint that WOULD burn off easily would be functional for identifying hot spots. Once corrected, the final paintcoat could be applied. DAW

The brake light doesn't look good but since you've already blended in the housing for it, see what it looks like with a mesh screen/grille in it instead of the red lens, i.e., make it look like some kind of vent (just to see how it looks) DAW

I have been collecting parts to build a 2L turbo motor using the DASH head to replace the 2.6L G54B in my Starion, but I'm going to sell the car with its present engine. Meanwhile, I've been thinking about using the 2.0L engine in an early Zcar. The DASH head is a 12-valve head (2 intake, 1 exhaust valve) but uses two separate intake ports for the two intake valves. For low-speed, off-boost response, the intake port/manifold runner/valve is small. At about the point where the optimum charge velocity/response it affords becomes flow-restricted (around 2,600 rpm), an electrical solenoid in the head activates a secondary intake valvetrain of significantly larger ports/valves/intake runners. From that point-on until redline, both sets of intakes are flowing and they share the same plenum. I've got the head and turbo manifold, trans, rods and pistons. The block should not be too difficult and I think I'm looking for a wide-block G63 as used in the Mighty Max truck. I'll probably have to fabricate an intake unless someone from down-under reads this and offers one for sale. My questions are about oil pan sump/engine mounts/etc. i.e., has anyone swapped in a G63 or G64 and what were the obstacles/issues? I searched and didn't find. DAW Oh, BTW, I'm not interested in going with a G64 shortblock (2.4L). A 100mm stroke is not an engine I'm interested in. I prefer the shorter stroke of the G63, even though the displacement is less. DAW

The US L28's (na) from '75-'80 were 8.3:1 with dished pistons. The '81-'83 flat-top piston (na) L28's were 8.8:1. If you have 0.020" cut from your P90 you will increase the cr some and still be able to deal with the timing chain slack without resorting to cam tower shims, etc. If you are looking to gain more than .25-.30 of cr then you need to consider changing pistons. DAW

Nice work. I can see the sparks flying already...better sparks than chunks of fiberglass. Where did the bolt-on fender flares come from? I'd like to get a set for my 510. DAW

Thanks for sharing the write-up. DAW

I remember seeing an old James Bond movie and he was driving a Mustang GT350 or something and his line was, ..."the doors are welded..." Even in a roadster I think a quick-release steering wheel would be a must. DAW

I recently bought a pair of the Scarab side vent/louvre things off of E-Bay from someone in Portland, OR so there are parts floating around still. DAW

Has anyone made a roadster out of a Zcar and welded the doors to stiffen the unibody? DAW

I'm measuring for an engine transplant into a '72 240Z, it's a 2.5L Maserati aluminum block/heads V6 twin turbo. It's pretty compact and even though it has a front sump oilpan it only measures 18" from the front of the sump to the end of the block where it meets bellhousing. I't only 9" from the stock Biturbo front mount point to the back of the block. Lining it up with the Zcar, the front of the sump can be behind the Z crossmember and I would build mount legs out from where the tension rod boxes are. The engine is pretty light...and it leaves a lot of real estate up front...so what if I get rid of the gastank in the back and put a fuel cell or maybe a plastic tank like out of a newer Volvo up front? In conjunction with this I move the battery into the spare tire well on the right side, and install the spare (I use RX7 4-lug alloy low-volume spares) under the car using a carriage/frame setup (stows below the tire well where the fuel tank used to be). This could also free up some space under the car for exhaust pipe routing. On the street I'm more likely to get rear-ended than hit someone (unless I change my driving style) as I've been a good driver. It does make me a little nervous having gas out in front but weren't old VWs, Porsche 914 and some others front-tanked? I think the lower engine weight and mounting location vs the stock L6 makes for less polar moment (and I'm probably butchering or mis-using those terms) which means I can afford the weight out there in front without trading off any significant weight distribution %. DAW

I'm reluctant to even ask, but did you consider running the tubes for cylinders 1,2 & 5,6 upward and then downward (an "S" shape from the side view) so that their tract length was equal to the runners for cylinders 3,4? DAW

I couldn't pass this up. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=8038082346&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT If it will fit in a Zcar, or one of my 510's, I'll put it there. If not, it'll be spare parts for my '87 Biturbo Spyder (efi), which has only 30-some Kmiles on it and not in need of anything but I figured when opportunity knocks...I'd hate to be seriously in need of a trans, head, piston, etc., because I'd never find one for what I paid for this engine/trans assy. If I transplant this, (it could also potentially go into my Euro MB 230CE), I'd just get it running with the blow-through Weber-in-a-box set up and then convert it to e.f.i. I recently bought a spare ECU for my Biturbo on EBay just to have it on hand, so I've got a start on the efi already. The Maserati is a PITA to work on but it's a labor of love and I appreciate the technology and the art...I just hate that I have to settle for the sohc 18-valve engine instead of the dohc 24-valve. Hmmm...so I go to Napoli, find my cyl heads, manifolds, pistons...dissassemble them into individual pieces...half go home in my suitcases, and the bare aluminum head castings and intake manifold get sent to me via US Postal Service from APO/FPO originating at one the Combined Forces or NATO facilities in Napoli (basically same rate as if they originated in NY)...hmmm DAW

Z-tard, I was reading through this thread and noticed a post from a month or two ago in which you said there was probably some out-gassing from the epoxy and it smelled like almonds...I'm not sure if my recall is good but cyanide came to mind. I know that cyanoacrylate is a component of a lot of epoxys and polyurethane foams...be careful about ventilation or you'll be poisoning your brain.