MusPuppis

I didnt know the VATN technology had been around that long. Interesting. My understanding of it (as limited as that really is) is that it is essentially the be-all end-all of turbo design. Very interesting. I wonder if the Dodge turbo's could be made use of.

How does nitrous effect a boosted motor, as opposed to an N/A one? I've heard nitrous lowers compression and combustion temperatures, which would be beneficial in a turbo motor I thought, but, I beleive nothing I hear in casual conversation until its backed up by poeple I trust. The reason I ask, is we want flat 12's, high 11's out of the Festiva and nitrous is the easier way to do it. If we want more out of the motor itself we're looking at a new turbo, custom exhuast mani, new DP, larger injectors and other assorted tidbits. We were thinking a 50 shot on a WOT switch. The bottom end is good on the B6T to 300+hp, and we're looking at maybe (before nitrous) 200 at the crank. We would upgrade the injectors when doing this. We're already running a 255 pump, so we should be good there. Just curious, thanks.

Will this be the first production car making use of the VATN setup? IMO, the Porsche. I know you didnt list the '07, but either way.. Tough to go wrong with a Porsche.

Thanks for the link. I'll check it out when class is over. I need something to the tune of 15in high or so, depth isnt too important, we have room there, and length of like 15-18inches. We've been looking at Del Sol radiators, but I think their too tall.. Automatic Festy radiators (2core) would work with a little cutting of the rad. support but the outlet points straight down and theres no real way to make it work without hacking the radiator support literally in half. Someone needs to make a radiator the size of a saltine cracker.. Anyone up for the task? lol.

I was wondering what the smallest radiator you all have ever seen is? I'm looking for a VERY small 2+ core unit to cool our B6T in the Festy.. We have extremely limited room and its getting to be a real problem locating one. I also thought about getting a radiator and getting it cut down to size, but I dont know what all is involved and what that would end up costing in the long run.. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks folks.

I was curious if anyone knows of a good read on understanding the cooling fan CFM requirements for an engine? How to go about figuring out whats required and such. The time has come to buy a fan for the Festy and we're severely limited by space, so I need to figure out the minimum CFM required to keep the car cooled down when we're sitting in the lanes between passes or hanging out in traffic or whatever. The motor is a 1.6ltr turbo 4 banger, will be running 15psi when we need to try hard and about 10 just cruising. 2 core, Del Sol radiator (very small). Now, I know boost pressures shouldnt effect the fan needed since when we start seeing boost we'll be well past the point a fan is required (isnt at like 25mph or so that the rad should be flowing enough air to make the fan pointless?) but I listed it incase I'm wrong (I frequently am) just to make sure. Cooling in this little bugger is making me nervous, I'd love to slap in a larger radiator but space prohibits us incredibly.

A month and she should be on the road. We're having some wiring issues.. the fuel pump isnt cutting on and I cant figure out why.. I need to test the relay but havent the slightest idea how to accomplish that, heh. I'm going over the whole wiring scheme front to back as soon as I get home today and see if I can trace where I screwed up. The starter isnt working either (we just hooked it up and laid it on the floor for test purposes, heh). Something is screwy.. We have the RR ECU, are ordering a ACT 4 Puck right now and will be running a custom intake tube (similar to the way yours is setup). Also decided to go with a long, slim FMIC (Nothing else will fit, lol.). 255lph pump, 15psi.. Should be fun. I'll be building a downpipe for the car soon, but not before we get it running. We arent stopping till it goes 12's. I think you mentioned @ 15psi we'll need to run race gas? Any idea (approx.) what you can cruise around at on premium pump gas without detonating? Good luck on getting her running again. Glad it wasnt anything more serious.

Thanks X. I love the 400, sprays so so smooth, I think you'll like it as well. Everyone thats used mine has been enamored with it from the outset. If ay ever come to Ky, you can borrow mine,

Really, she is about as low as possible, being born high with money doesnt set you that far apart. Now, I live in Kentucky, so I see the exact type you mentioned and they are as nasty and crazy in many instances as you imagine, however, I've seen more fervor and insanity bred of bizarre things from the middle class than any other. Most small, high dollar dogs are owned by suburbanites anyway. regardless, that was some funny ****. Call me evil, wont be the first time, but could see it all and it was absolute genius.

Ulesis posted the pics and vids of his, and my bud and myself couldnt resist.. We're building one, we expect to be done in about a month. engine is in and the wiring is wrapped up. Still have to get and mount the IC and radiator then run the associated plumbing. Then get a preist to bless the car, and start her up, lol. I want to publicly thank Ulesis for being EXTREMELY helpful in this and answering all my stupid questions. without him we would not only have never known this existed but making as much progress as we hve this quickly would have been impossible. Oh, engine looks a little cock-eyed in the pic, its actually level, but we had two bolts break on our crossmember, one on the front and one on the back, so the whole farting thing is leaned a little bit. We'll have to getthe car on a lift and either weld it in place or try and work the bolts out and re-tap the threads.

Sup X, I have an Iwata LPH400 (their top of the line I beleive) w. a 1.6 and 1.4 tip. 1.6 for primer obviously and the 1.4 for clear and top coats. I'm just a student so I cant afford a lineup of guns, so it does triple duty, lol. The gun is the low volume model designed to meet the HVLP transfer requirements and do it on a ****-ton less CFM. My gun only needs 9.5 cfm for optimal atomization and efficiency. 16psi at the inlet gives me 10 at the tip, so its cake to use and will run on a number of compressors. I know thats not an issue with you, but its a nice feature none the less. also, correct me if I'm wrong, but with a lower CFM requirement it also allows the use of less than perfect air hoses, regulator and other lines right? Since you dont need the internal volume to be so high. I've had the chance to spray with a GTi Millenium and a Sata NR2000. Like i said before, I dont have alot of money, so I couldnt afford to make the wrong choice in a gun, the end result was a large amount of research and playing around on my part. In the end, I felt the Iwata was better than the SATA and ALOT better than the GTi. The fan is large, it sprays very well, smooth, its very light, which is nice to reduce arm fatigue. I love the hell out of the gun. I let my instructor spray with it over a weekend a this place, he had two cars to do. He's a diehard SATA fan and he called me on sunday and offered to trade me both his SATA's for it, lol. Also in its favor was that the 1.6 and 1.4 tips use the same needle, so I bought the gun with a 1.4 and just had to get a 1.6, I didnt have to drop the money for a whole new needle.

Dance, O' Dance! O gala night! O dance divine encirc'd within thy curtained shrine, lamps strung low, of feeble glare cast they light, in movements fair! how they revel! tumble strange, limbs a-kimbo, faces strained, -as phantom music plays and plays Corpses turn a simple step, with night to hide their halted breath hearts stopped well and figures cold costumes dawned, from days of old. Still they swing, both gay and strange as night pervaids and horror reigns -as phantom music plays and plays A lusty waltz! with fasioned air the revel'rs turn and chance a stare as figures new and thus arrived, appear bewildered; in confusion strive to find in darkness, fettered way, so sing'ly search the failing day -as phantom music plays and plays.

Thats what I was thinking. Better than i could do without building some elaborate jig to ensure a straight cut. I'm not jumping in on the whole cowl induction idea, because the name says it all. INDUCTION. You move to criticize a drawing of how it works but for your end of the arguement you dont even offer that much. You just say "Well, it works the way I think it does!". As to the scoop itself, really, who cares. It looks good, was cleanly done and will have no real effect on the car outside of perhaps, a slight increase in lift and high speeds that would only really matter if he were racing the car in a serious enviroment. Some things are done because they make the car look better. Thats it. Why spend the money on a nice paint job? Why shave the side marker lights or add non-functional body mods such as fender flares (speaking from the point of veiw of their aesthetic value, I know they allow wider tires). Why tint your windows? In the world of street cars, some trade-offs will always be made for a better appearance or increase in general appeal. I for one add a very large, very loud stereo to anything and everything I drive. It adds weight and serves no purpose in the realm of performance, but by god, I like it.

Nope, its not required. If your current paint is holding up and not chipping or flaking off theres no reason to remove it, just scuff it very well and go from there.

Hm, Other than cars.. Every great once in a while I build models, I read alot.. Write poetry and short stories and spend alot of time kinda lost in my own little world. I go to school about 50 hours a week, working towards a diploma (and various certifications) in auto body as well as an associates in applied sciences at Somerset Community College. I've always wanted to try out paint-ball but Ive heard nothing but how much it costs and I cant even feed myself, let alone dump 500$+ into paintball gear. Never been in to guns and I've never been hunting in my life. I do own a J. Stevens Arms Company single barrel .410 (pre-Savage buy-out) that I figure is something like 85 years old, give or take a 5 year swing. Firing pin is borked and doesnt extend far enough to fire the shell.. It leaves a very slight indention though.. *Shrug*. Never been one to gain alot of pleasure from killing something for no reason, but I have "stalked" game before, just cause I think its interesting but I was armed with a camera and not a gun. Really dope camera to, 3$ at Rite-Aid. I used to make music, hip-hop primarily but I outgrew the whole "underground" ideal and as I branched out, I realized I sucked, so, rather than sully the reputation of a form of music that doesnt have a good one to begin with, I just let it slide, lol. I've tried to play guitar but my hands got pretty mashed up many years ago so I'm not worth much of a damn at it.

Nice car, I'll bet its a blast to drive. My target numbers were based on what I had read on the Festiva forum. Heres a slightly more detailed list of what I have in mind, let me know what you think it'll net us. I want 12's in the little thing. Ok, 1900pd car (with driver, it may be a little more, but we wont break 2. No carpet, manual belts, no a/c, anything and everything but the two front seats and dash removed.) Probe I/C w. 2.25/.5 piping (I've been thinking of a normal high efficiency FM but I want to keep the car as stock looking as possible. A giant bright I/C poking out of the front doesnt accomplish that.) 15/16psi (What can the stock turbo handle? Ive heard the internals are ok into the mid to upper 200's, but what kind of boost can we see from the stock unit?) Reich Racing Tuned ECU Open DP (dumping under the cab somewhere) Good CAI w. quality filter (thinking of a fender pickup..) Capri Tranny w. good clutch (still working on exactly which clutch will be best Centerforce Dual Friction looks like a strong runner) Custom intake tube (The tube that sits over the valve cover.. very small diameter on entrance, then expands as it reachs the T/B. I want to make a new one the same diameter through-out.) Tough motor mounts. Once I get them mocked up I'm gonna see about pouring new ones w. a stronger urethane. Better BOV (I have no idea on this.. I dunno what does and what doesnt make a good BOV.. I need to get my Maximum Boost book out and start reading, lol.. I do want a recirc setup like the car has now, I dont want a huge PSSSHHHHH heard by everyone around me) Thats what I have planned right now. I want to build a better downpipe for the car but I dunno that we'll do that just yet. Ulises is going 12's on a similar setup I *think*. Bryan, the guy I'm building this car for (I call it "mine" or "ours" but hes funding it..) wants to build this, run it for a while till we kill the motor, then do a little better build, ported intake/head/exhaust mani, custom DP, pretty tough build. So what do you think we're gonna have to do to hit 12's?

Ive spent quite a while watching the vids of his 12second Festiva.. It took some time but my bud and I have decided to build one. Seems like I'm doing everything these days BUT working on the Z. Until I can put together the money to go ahead and get everything I need to finish it out at the same time, I'm just not gonna work on her. Anyway.. We drove to New York in a horrible no-sleep, 10am Fri. to 2:30am Sun. session to get the Capri, that gets to be out donor car for the swap. We're doing a build very similar to Ulises, Capri tranny, tuned ECU, better I/C, better BOV, 15-16psi, other random tidbits.. Target HP is about 220-230 at the flywheel.. Which should propel us into the 12's if we can hook it somehow. So far we're still looking for a suitable Festiva. We found one but it was so rusted out it wasnt worth the effort, so we passed. One we get it, I'll get it prepped then get the motor dropped in so I can do some mount mock-ups and see what its gonna take to mount it all up correctly. We hope to have it on the road by august, assuming we can find a Festy sometime in early May. Once the motor is in we're gonna lower it and do some body work, get it painted a deep metallic blue, something along the lines of the color newer Cavs come in. Custom plate that reads something assanine like 2FST2FSTY, cause its so stupid.. it fits the car... lol. I dunno, something about this whole thing appeals to me.. Super lightweight (we're looking at about 1900pds with a driver and about 2 gallons of gas) lower powered car, POS FLYING down the track.. hehe. God its gonna be fun. I've spent the better part of a week just pulling and cleaning the other motor. World of difference so far.

Mustang is wrapped up and completed and for sale! Awww yeah. We have to buy a lock for the hatch and the rear window trim but the car is totally done, buffed, shiny and purty secksy. 89 Mustang GT, 5 speed. Asking price is 4000$. I think we'll end up painting the rims or something to match the stripes, just to see how it goes. I learned a metric ***-ton on this car and have alot better grasp of the process now. Its far from perfect but I know where our mistakes were and I wont make them again. We primarily a victim of poor masking on our parts and thinking more than one or steps ahead. I would have liked to spray more material as well. We were rushing ourselves out of impatience and eagerness to see the car done and it resulted in a fair amount of touchup. If I had slowed down and taken my time more on the first go-round I would have saved literally 8-10 hours of touchup and tinkering afterwards. Also I should have gone heavier on the clear. 2 coats and a tack but I would have preferred 4 coats and a tack. Also need to adjust my wetsanding procedure some. Gary has us just hit the clear with 2k then move on to the rubbing compounds and such but I read an interesting little article that shows a guy wetsanding the paint w. like 600 grit THEN spraying the clear and going over it with 1200, then 2000 then the compounds. I want to look more into the wetsanding process cause thats what makes or breaks a paint job in the end IMO. For production work Gary's method is fast and functional but when I need to go the extra mile I need to find a process I like. How do you all go about the wetsanding buffing? I'm curious to hear how the paint guys here like to do it. Anyway, here she is.

A couple little ideas when doing a home paint job. Prepping your space is important. Its difficult to get a decent enviroment when working in a garage but with a little prep and fiddling you can really go a long way to helping yourself out in the end. 3m masking plastic is your friend. You can get it decently cheap in enormous roles. Hang this over and secure it around everything in the garage. Try to isolate your car from everything else. Buy a small mop, wet it down real well and dampen the floors and walls (plastic if you've used it) as best as you can before you spray. It helps to repeat this process while as it dries up. This holds dust and garbage to the floor and minimizes airborne contaminates. A good time to paint is early in the morning as well. Damper air will keep the crap to a minimum. Also, remember you need to make sure you have a very good filter and drying system in place to ensure the air itself is solid. A decent way to test the air is fix a small peice of gauze and hold it against the airflow for about 30-45 seconds and take a look at it. Take a look at it. If its damp or you see a discoloration (oil/garbage) or you see particles of crap trapped, something has failed in your filtering system. Also, if your using an HVLP gun, make sure your compressor is up to the task and make sure your hoses are large and all your fittings are as well. Alot of 3/8 fittings have TINY little internal diameters that greatly restrict airflow. The V in HVLP stands for volume and bottlenecks in the air delivery do not make for good volume. Insufficient airflow and poor volume make for an inconsistent and sub-par spray. A couple other things, little tidbits anyway. I may be corrected on these but in many cases its a matter of preference. You dont need to go to bare metal. Its just not required in many instances. if your paint is good and sticking well and you arent planning some massive multi-layer paintjob then dont worry about it. Make sure its sanded and scuffed to hell and your good to go. Dont apply normal fillers over paint. BAD. polyester products are designed to go straight over paint and they work well but standard stuff isnt made for it and will not adhere correctly. Mix the filler WELL. Very very well. Guide coats and long-blocks are your friend. Cut filler w. 80 and kill parafin then final sand w. 180/120, blend with several (several!) good coats of primer then final wetsand w. 400 grit to blend. When final priming add extra primer to bodyworked areas and make sure to block well.

Its just nice to be in a position to help out the community a little bit. I watch these forums constantly but I'm not able to help out much because for every question I can answer, theres two dozen poeple who can answer it better and giving mediocre or perhaps incorrect advice is pointless and dangerous, lol. Rags is bringing a Z down to me to work on but when its finished up I'll see what my class schedule looks like and try and figure out when/if I'll be able to scoot another Z in. Gary (my instructor) doesnt mind us bringing in our own work but he wants us working on a large variety of different vehicles, so after this Z is done I'll have to have a little cool-down time before I can get another one in. Anyway, Big thanks to Rags for giving me the oppertunity to work on a Z (and from what I hear its gonna be a very very nice Z).

That is a slick looking car. I like the paint.

One of two things, You'd run 8's. Or. The universe would crack.

=]

This is just an offer, if anyone is interested. I'm in college for Auto Body repair and we have a live work shop, which means we take in customers cars and such. This gives me the chance to give something, however small, the Z community I've been kinda floating in for a while now. If you want you Z painted and meet the basic requirements I'll list below, I can do it for you for no labor cost or fee of any sort. You buy materials or give me the money to buy them (we get a discount through school) and thats it. Requirements: 1. Z in decent shape. Dents and dings are np, MINOR rust repair isnt a problem either but seriously rusted out or massively damaged cars we cannot take in. Gary doesnt want us undertaking restorations just yet. Minor body mods are also ok. Shaved antenna's, side markers, etc. Id be more than happy to do that, 2. Must be able to get the car to Somerset, Ky. 3. Must be willing to be without the car for a while. I work as fast as I can and I'll have one-two other hand-picked students on the car with me but due to a 4 day school week and the hectic work load as well as my over-all inexperience the project will take some time. If theres no real damage to the car, just dents and dings and you dont want anything huge done, it could be back in 3-4 weeks, possibly faster. Also, we break for the summer in May. As of me typing this we have 5 weeeks of class left, so it may be better for you to bring the car in after we start school again, otheriwse it will just have to sit while Im out on summer vacation. I'd be more than happy to work on it during that time but I wont have access to the shop and dont have a place for it at my house. Not to mention lacking a paint booth and such, hehe. 4. The car must be carried through from start to finish by me. Ie, I cant take a car in and do all the body work then give it back so you can get it painted. Gary wants us on end to end projects. I think thats about it. The materials are your choise. As cheap or as expensive as you want. The way it will work is to contact me, via PM or phone (number to be listed below) and we'll schedule a day to bring the car in. I can give you the address and you can get directions from Map Quest or the like. When you bring the car to the school, Gary will come out and look over it and ahve me make a preliminary estimate, which he will critique, making what changes need to be made, then get a materials price for you. Also, keep in mind this is all materials. Right down to the razor blades and masking tape. Not just the paint costs. We have little to no budget, heh. Also, please keep in mind I'm a student. I will do a very good job and it will hold up and look good for years but I am not a professional yet, so it will take me some time to do it and it wont be a show quality job.. But it will be as damn close as I can make it. Anyway, I dunno if anyone is interested or not, I just thought I'd throw this out there to anyone who may want it done. I get alot of out this community and I just dont know enough to give back in any real way. So, maybe I can help out a Zer. Contact me via PM or at 859-948-4752 (ask for John) if your interested and we can go over the details and see what we can do!

Just watched that... That was great. Greaterific. Great on a stick and great wrapped in bacon with a hot chick holding it. Jeff Gilbert is the man.. Is he on any pain killers or anything? That guy was about as relaxed looking and sounding as anyone Ive ever seen. "What kind of gas mileage does it get?" hahaha.