MusPuppis

Quoted for truth. Rust also likes to hide, so where you see a little, theres likely alot. Also check the toolboxes in the back, spare tire well and around the gas cap area. If your worried about jacking on the front frame rails you could use the front crossmember. Not the best location for safety reasons, but it'll do in a pinch. Put something under the tires if you can for stability. Personally, I would make it a point to jack the car up in several different spots on the front rails heh. If theres a problem you'll expose it right then and there before you end up buying it and finding out it needs very serious repair. Just jack real slow and watch the contact patch for bowing, bending, breaking or crunching. Any this likely indicates the rail is pretty much ruined.

You say 900 for the whole car? If the car itself is in good shape, why not buy the car, pull the motor and see about locating a new(er) bottom end?

I thought that to, but if I rev the engine sitting park or nuetral nothing changes. The lights stay dim, oil pressure gauge stays pegged, etc.. But if I put the engine under load while revving, everything works perfectly. Like, if I sit in park and rev the engine to 5k RPM's, I get no change in the symptoms - if I brake the truck and rev to 1.5k, everything starts working correctly again, lol. I am gonna get the alt and battery tested though. Maybe Im just stupid, but this is a weird problem.

Thanks folks. If I could pull 3500$ for it I'd be thrilled. But, in an effort to kick me in the ***, the truck - which has driven flawlessly for so long, showed TWO problems last night Its never showed before.. Some electrical issue- Volts read low, lights dim, oil pressure gauge has a seizure at low RPM/Low load.. as soon as the engine is under load, like power braking or harder acceleration, everything is fine. Lights get brighter, oil pressure guage reads properly.. One I level off and start cruising, same problem. I'm confused on that one. And, Some issue with the friggen transmission! I have a kina "clunk" when taking off from a dead stop. Did some looking and it appears the sound is coming from the bellhousing. Some fluid also spurts out when at high RPM's, under load or not. I did some power-brake testing to put the engine under load and let off.. I have a clunk when I release and the RPM's drop for a second like the truck's trying to die. One made a kind of grinding noise and it did infact die. Its also EXTREMELY sluggish from about 0-15mph. Once I get moving it jerks you back a little bit and really moves, but from a dead stop it feels like its got no balls. T/C? Pump? BAH. So, I think someones telling me not to sell it, lol.

Thats about what I was thinking. Tough to find a buyer though. Theres about 26million other F-150's being sold, lol.

At Man o' War Ford in Lexington they have two post style lifts. A good friend of mine works there and I was in one day doing some work on my truck (when they arent busy I get to borrow bays.. =]). A guy two bays down was lifting a newer F-150, had it about 3 feet up when we heard this kinda pop and a crash.. Chester (they guy lifting the truck) was laying on his stomach like 6 feet away where the threw himself. An arm on the lift snapped and the truck came down. They also had a cable break some time ago while lifting a F350 (their fault though.. lift was NOT supposed to lift that truck). I wasnt there to see the F350.. but I saw the F150 take a dive. In my very limited experience, I greatly prefer the 4 post.

Really struggeling with a decision I have to make.. I'm thinking of selling my F-150. School is approaching and its just not practical to keep the truck.. It was my Grandfathers truck originally. My Mom for it when he died and she destroyed the transmission and engine in short order. I got it from her after she blew it up. I replaced the transmission with another stocker but for the engine I opted for a 5.0 HO out of a Mustang. Lightly modded. I'm just curious as to what you folks think I could potentially get for the truck if I decided to sell.. I dont really want to, but I dont need a 14mpg truck with a 20 mile per day commute to and from school + coming back to Lexington on weekends, a trip about 80 miles each way. I know that the value of non-stock vehicles sways greatly and is really hard to nail down, but an idea on what I could expect would be appreciated. Lemme list the good and bad and link some pictures. '94 F-150 XLT. 2wd, Auto. Long bed. 115k on the body, about 6k on the motor. I dont drive much. Truck drives extremely well. Shifts well, turns tight, good alignment. Mechanically its in excellent shape. Body - Almost perfect body. Three small dings (smaller than golf-ball size) on bottom of the driver side door. Paint is very good. Still glossy as hell. No fade. Some scratchs on the hood. Chrome is good Bumpers are straight Never wrecked or hit at all Plastic Bedliner Engine - 5.0 HO out of a '92 Mustang .30 over Keith Black Pistons Port n' Polished stock E7 heads Total-Seal Piston Rings Cheapy CAI Cruise is NOT hooked up. I have the cable but the bracket I made to adapt the trucks cable to the Mustang TB doesnt hold the cruise cable Interior - Carpet is stained. Ive cleaned it to death but its stained to hell Interior is re-done in black. All panels have been painted with Duplicolor INterior Paint. Done right. Seats are in good condition. Not brand-new but no rips, no fading. Dash and gauges are fine. Temp gauge does not work, I disconnected it and ran an aftermarket gauge. Small aftermarket tach I bought and installed when I first got the truck runnnig. I had an idle jump and wanted a proper indicator of how far it was jumping and just how high it idled. All glass is perfect. A/C is not filled, but works fine. Good and cold. Heat will cook you in your skin if you want it to. Misc - Front gas tank has been removed. Pump went out and I had no need of it anyway. The pump going bad was causing gas from the rear tank to leak into the front when it was running.. So I simply removed the front tank since spending 150$ on a fuel pump for something I didnt use seemed foolish.

haha KICK ***. I love that little sucker.

9. No. If the old paint is still sticking it doesnt have to come all the way down. Some poeple will take it down regardless and some wont. Of course if the old paint is starting to flake off then its a good idea to strip it all the way down. Also, as to priming, some primers are direct-to-metal meaning just that.. Some arent. You can use etching primers on bare metal to give you a base to spray on. As to priming over old paint, you dont have to in all situations, but I think its a good idea. You can just use a sealer, then lay the actual paint on the sealer (So the body shop guys I talked to told me) but it seems (to me atleast) a wise move to spray primer. 2. Define "easy".? And the actual amount of work depends on the car and chasis design.

/Agreed.

Allrighty, Looking for opinions on recommended methods for removing what remains of my stock floor rails. I'll be welding in subframe connectors starting (hopefully) a couple days after Thanksgiving, and I'm gonna get the car ready starting tomarrow or the day after. I did some searching on this and found some info about spot weld removers, but this idea doesnt entirely appeal to me. Mainly because I think my drill isnt up to the task. As a matter of fact I'm almost sure it isnt. Its been pretty mad at me lately and I'm fairly sure its failing. I dont have the money for a new drill right now. Even a cheap one. I do however have a fully functioning 4 1/2 grinder and an air chisel. Would it be possible to just grind the spot welds out? Pretty much just grind the weld flush with the metal below.. Ive also seen a chisel for my air chisel with an odd shape.. It has a normal chisel end, about half and inch or so, then it tapers into a kind of hooked, thinner end. Would that be worth a damn or would the hooked end dull out quickly? I also kind of worry I couldnt get the air chisel on all the welds at a proper angle. Any advice would be appreciated. Below is a picture of the welds I'm trying to remove.

Well, how about putting me, my tools and my Z in a space or two? har har. Nice digs.. That price is crazy cheap. My step-uncle just build a place in Richmond Ky.. Friggen 110 acre compound with a 2.1mil home and *massive* shop building. Its sorta a vanity farm.. Its a functioning farm but for any real reason other than "for the hell of it". Must be nice to be a millionaire, but sadly, he hates me and I hate him, lol.

I like how he has one 8 in. Bazooka woofer (peice of ****) in a Nitrous look-a-like bottle. That makes me more sad than alot of the other stuff.

Not finding much myself.. A friend passed me these links: http://www.ussearch.com/search/start.cgi?adID=288806B175&searchPhone=317-8631072 https://find.intelius.com/purchase.php?SPID=&ReportType=33&records=&searchform=phone&Duration= It costs money to sign up to and I dont know how much help it would be, if any help at all.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-datsun-260Z-datsun-260Z-custom-beauty-with-new-L28-highperformance_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6187QQitemZ4590413073QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW OMGOOSES. I want to pretent to buy it so I can meet that guy and kick him in the head while wearing boots.

Have you tried calling a private investigator? Who knows just how how much they would charge.. but since all your wanting is an address, you could probably get it done for a reasonable price. I'll take the phone number and see what I can accomplish.

Welcome welcome. Clean lookin car. I'm diggin that white on black interior.

Great looking. I REALLY like the look of Z's with the rear bumper delete. I looked into doing it on mine but I really dont think I'm good enough at body work yet to pull it off.

I beleive the correct term is actually "Engrish"

The suggestions listed are about as good as your going to get. As stated, GO TO THE COPS. Can they do anything right now? Nope. But getting it on record is important. Very very important. Again, as stated, report every time hes seen. Every time. Eventually you'll be able to get a restraining order on his *** - then its only a matter of time before he gets in real trouble. Now, personally, I'd confront him and make it extremely clear that if he doesnt back down and walk away from the whole situation I'd make him seriously regret it. But, since we're all (for the most part anyway) grown-ups my approach certainly wouldnt be the smartest or most mature.. BUt its how my simple self deals with poeple who seriously over-step themselves. Oh, definatly buy your G/F some pepper spray. I got shot with the stuff a while ago and man.. it laid my 250pd self out pretty quick.

I think the SR is one of the best looking 4 bangers on the planet.. and your swap makes it look even better. Clean, precise, kick-***.

Looks good man - real good. I hope my bay looks that clean when its painted. I'm going satin black, so it wont be as shiny and bright though. Oh, and my radiator mount looks like its taken a hit at some point =/

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it wouldnt be a one of a kind Z since the engine did indeed come in the 432 and 432R Z's.

Ah ok, Was curious. That looks great. The FIRST THING you have to do is go embarass some ricers or something. My god what a sleeper..

That is so dope it hurts. Whats the reason for using the B6T? Is a direct bolt-in or is it just a solid, small motor with good aftermarket support? I wonder what one could do with a 4efte.. hehe. 1.3l turbo Toyota engine.. Found in Starlet Glanza's (I beleive). 140hp, good aftermarket (though not in the US). I had looked into one of these for my Paseo when I had it. I would so do that in a heartbeat.. haha. Things so small its like a tall go kart. Nice work man, GET VIDS!