makaofox
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Everything posted by makaofox
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I honestly cant remember but ill dig around my files and see if I can find the company. It was a OEM shifter modified to shorter throw. Mini update: Drove it around runs a smidge lean off idle but out of idle and actual driving its not bad. Noticed oil pressure was alarmingly low (2js tend to run at about 5psi or so t idle) So decided to do an oil change. Went from 5w30 to 10w40 and it improved oil pressure. Since it was broken in there were plenty of metallic flakes, hopefully improves now. Did find a rubber piece in the oil, not sure if the oil pan was entirely clean or a piece from the head maybe dip stick grommet. I do have a vac leak of some sort as it stalls the car at a light or a stop. I think from the Tial BOV. I ordered the softer spring and O-ring, so I will monitor that once the parts come in. Other wise the car runs but still needs refining. Any ideas on improving fuel tank sloosh? I stuffed it with the foam but left the center open because of the float level for the gauge. So the gauge goes all over the place. Are there better systems or foam that wont interfere with the float.
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Finally took the car to Evans Tuning in Mt. Bethel PA. He is a very good tuner im happy with him. However, I do have to retune it. We had to deal with lots of trouble shooting and the car would break up after about 7psi. So I ordered MSD ss blaster coil and the 6a ignition box with tach adapter. That should solve my spark issues and my goal of 15psi. I also needed a spring for my Tial BOV as the one thats in it is too stiff. I need the black spring which is the softest they have. I also needed the o-ring for the Tial. So far the car is driveable and its amazing. Way faster than the L28 of course. Still scared to really get into boost. The 6sp is great but not loving the short throw shifter I brought, im sure I just need to get used to it. Hopefully once the parts come in I can get it retuned asap.
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Emailed Evans tuning, scheduled for tune in april . So far seems like a good choice just with some communication.
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Thanks! Geno- fellow r32 owner took his car there and they didnt do a great job working on it. So may not go to them. Ive heard of Evans I may have to call him soon and see what he can do.
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Anyone recommend a tuner in NJ or surrounding area for the 2jz? Finished the build in october and was using a tuner through supra forums that got me a 'base' map but going back and forth via email is really hard. Especially since I cant determine if its a tune issue or a motor issue with how it runs. AEM V1 Current issues, doesnt start easily, wont hold idle, did ping once or twice, and ran really crappy like a fuel issue. Needs to be broken in so if I could get a basic tune that I could just baby it for awhile would be great. Been looking around but not really experienced with shop tuners. I have a friend that is also gonna need a tuner and has his friend but he (like most tuners) is very hard to get a hold of. Not able to do much now anyway with winter weather in NJ right now but looking to start in march or april.
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Good stuff to know. Had to redo my exhaust to an oval system now I dont scrape...as much lol. I will still scrape on driveways and most likely hard highway dips. Not a big deal better than than the oil pan, gas tank or trans. Question taking my car for a dyno tune/ break in on dyno. Anyone ever broke in a motor on the dyno? I needed a tune and the dyno is going to help me get there but while im there might as well put some miles on the motor on the dyno in a controlled environment. Just wanted some input/ feedback on experiences. I broke in the L28 on the street but took forever to drive 2k miles since its just a weekend car.
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Awesome that would be great. I would for sure start collecting parts after that. Thought about going with the mojo perf kit. I used it in my GTR and loved it. Just the cps would make life easier than the other options. On a good note, finally got the gauges to light up. I hooked it up the the GREEN/WHITE wire from the side marker lights. The RED/BLUE wire for whatever reason was just not giving it the juice.
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I do the main thing that stopped me was finding a decent 7m cps. the 7m makes it really easy to convert but with them being used not new anymore its tough finding them in nj atleast. I saw a few but people wanted to sell the whole motor. Eventually ill convert it though, possibly just do a crank pulley mod or something.
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So got the motor running but had to deal with leaking oil filter, leaking fuel fittings and leaking coolant sensor. Coolant temp adapter was stripped but used some JB weld to rethread it and some RTV. Hopefully works out. Only going to use water till I know it doesnt leak. No Idle air control valve sucks. I dealt with it on the L28, it doesnt hold idle until it warms up. So im hoping, I havent gotten it to temp while dealing with leaks. Sure sounds good, also have to check and calibrate timing. Still dealing with no back light for the speedhut gauges. I wanna say at this point my high beam and hazards light up on the gauges and the needle pointer lights up BUT I think my stock dimmer is conflicting with the aftermarket dimmer switch. So since they both are on, the needle dims slightly but maybe the power of two dimmers isnt giving it the power needed to light up the gauges. Not too sure, I plan on removing the stock dimmer once I figure out how to remove it without taking the dash off again. Btw the Milwaukee is the way I plan on keeping warm lol! Also brought a vented hood from a local to try and keep engine bay temps low.
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Looking good! Thats one big turbo! I cant wait to try my 350z trans, my friend had it on his 240z with 600hp and it was amazing. It was def the right choice compared to a r154. Your build def has big power potential.
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Some good news! All my cranking issues were due to the igniter not being ground to the chassis. I just had it velcroed on the trans tunnel, so when I bolted it down boom spark and she wanted to start! Tomorrow ill hopefully start it and it idles and maybe even drives. I will take pics! Only real issue left is after taking the dash off again, reinstalling making sure the wires were the correct ones connected the gauge lights still dont come on . Not sure where that issue is but def will have to volt test it, my assumption is since I took the gauges off and left the plugs hanging it may not get power. I may have to go straight to the big plugs with those wires and see if it works. If not then could be something im missing for the gauges themselves. With it getting dark so much sooner this will forsure need to be fixed so I can do night time motor break ins!
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^ seems like it is an adjustment issue. I think I have the pedal as far as the stock master will let me go. If I get the car running ill use it that way but ordering a summit racing one which has a bit of a longer rod that ill trim down to what I need. On a side note tried making a start up map and that didnt work. Car kept cranking and couldnt turn over. Hopefully with a real tune from a professional it turns over, other wise its an issue on my end. Sounded pretty good cranking though! Another side note the gauges WERE wired correctly. I noticed a plug was loose when I was removing the whole dash to inspect my wiring. So I made things a bit better cleaned it up and during install ill make sure everything is connected nice and tight. Other wise if it still doesnt work ill have to break out the volt meter and see why its not getting power, mainly for the illumination aspect of the gauges. The gauges seem to work, not sure till im up and running.
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So everything is basically done. Waiting for a Tune to start it up, been waiting for over a week already. My only real issue is the clutch its way to low to the floor. Anyone have experience with collins adapters? I have stock 76 280z master and stock 350z slave (new) with -3an line probably 3 feet long. I thought I bled it enough but not sure if its a bleeding issue, or something else. Im hoping its not a fork issue, throw out bearing or even a pivot ball issue. I really dont wanna drop that heavy trans. The slave seems to move about 1/4 of travel. The pedal goes down several inches and about 2in before the floor it engages.
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I figured out the wiring issues after really really REALLY looking at the wiring diagram. Black with white is the switched ignition power, while white with red is constant. So hooked everything up and seems to work. The gauges ill focus on later that shouldnt be hard. I was having issues connecting to my AEM V1 ecu. Turns out the cord i was using was a gigaware cord that was out of date to windows 10. Now its connected, it was interesting exploring the program. You are right about the ECU I should have disconnected it while doing all this but I didnt, hopefully all is well, it still connected. Every time i did something I turned off the battery. Its a driftmotion fuel rail so it says 14mm but I was thinking it meant just the bottom of the injector its ok, I ordered new orings which should be here tomorrow. Good call on the zipties I have cushions on them every so often they seem tight but ill make sure they arent rubbing.
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Thanks guys! I figured the constant power was the white with red. So took the starter wire to the black and yellow, worked good. The rest of the wires I hooked up too black with white: thermo stat, override switch, wideband, boost controller, alt light, ignition + and speedhut gauges. The gauges i havent started messing with yet. ill update on that later.
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Created another topic to focus on my wiring woes. Another bad day fuel injectors leak! Seems like I ordered 11mm tops when I should have gotten 14mm so fuel ruined my nice valve cover paint, but it didnt ruin the wrinkle coat! Atleast the motor doesnt want to crank over. Moved the wire to the correct spot and its good now. Worked on the throttle cable just have to get some brackets and bolt it in. I couldnt find a T style ferrule so I modded the bolt it came with and gorilla glued the wire to it. I think it should hold it said impact tough lol. We shall see. Still waiting for my drive shaft from drive shaft shop, hopefully comes in this week. On the small list to do: Bleed brakes bleed clutch add transmission oil add coolant wire vacuum lines to greedy profec, wastegate, and BOV fix fuel leaks, saw one by fuel pump, crush washer probably isnt tight enough.
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Keeping this separate from my build, to make it easier for someone searching to find if anyone has similar issues. So in my build Im using a wiring specialties harness. Made life easier to just plug and play however it for sure didnt make my life easier because of my mistakes. So some details: 76 280z efi, was auto when it was made, transferred to manual. 94 supra 2jzge na to t, 350z 6sp. My issue begins with how do I wire up components like gauges, boost controller unit, AEM wideband unit, accessories and power in general? So here is what I did: I made my fusible link conversion to maxi fuses. I have that hooked up to positive on battery. I have another cable on positive to starter. I have my volt gauge wire hooked up to positive. Also have my relay for headlights to positive on battery. My headlights, signals and brakes work fine. 2jz need a cable from the alternator to the starter to recharge it. The negative terminal has the chassis, engine and headlight relay grounds. Now wiring specialties has a subharness thats for the fuses and relays. Has wires such as fan switch, reverse switch, a/c, oil press, CEL, coolant, speedo, tach, and Now the important ones, Alt light, start signal, and ignition +. The start signal is hooked up to the back of the ignition cylinder BLACK with YELLOW wire. I have hooked up alt light, ignition +, my speedhut gauges +, aem wideband + and profec controller + to the back of the ignition cylinder the WHITE with RED wire. Now thats where my problems start. Seems to give me constant power with NO key in. Looking at the wiring diagram it seems like that wire is a good choice so im not sure whats happening? It also primes my fuel pump with no key, which im sure will be fixed with the correct wires. The diagram shows it stages from ACC, ON, START. On a side note connecting my speed hut gauges the back light doesnt come on when the gauges were on. Im pretty sure I connected it to the wrong wire. Looking at the colored diagram should I hook them up to the RED with Blue wire? I think I connected it to the green with white on the tach which isnt good. High beam light comes on with low beam light and off at high. Connect that to the RED wire? I dont recall which one I connected it too but figured id ask. I appreciate any help. Wiring isnt my strong suit but I do my best to understand it but this has me stumped since its a 12v switched ignition.
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I think 4.5in and 2 1/16 from speed hut. Got the speedo gps thats how I figure they are all on btw.
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Another update: I made the down pipe and exhaust. Heat wrap sucks! But needed to be done. Working on throttle cable which isnt difficult but dont have the right style of fitting to fit on the throttle body. Wiring is hooked up. Anyone have experience with Boost controller Prosec? Curious the mac valve has 3 ports. I used 2 one for pressure ie turbo or manifold and one for wastegate. This leaves one port open and its a 1/8pt which isnt in stores. So do I leave that port open or block it off? The instructions dont clearify? Unless I missed it. Also experiencing wiring issues in my 76 if anyone has any input. My issue is I have constant power with no key on. My gauges turn and stay on, but have no back light even with lights on, my car wants to crank over when the battery positive terminal is connected. Also not sure if its an issue yet but I didnt hear fuel pump prime and the ecu Aem v1 wont connect to laptop. Those issues may go away when the constant power is resolved but not sure where to start.
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I did see the ones from the UK. Saw this old vintage way of defrosting CASCO VINTAGE WINDSHIELD DEFROSTER UNIT "SLUSHBUSTER" L726. pretty neat and its kind of cheap. Going to continue searching. Thanks Grayson. Just did wrinkle coat on my intake manifold, came out shitty but overall im happy with it. Apparently wrinkle coat has heat dispersion capabilities that also looks nice!
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Well to start I was going to use rainx. They have an anti-fog spray bottle that will help reduce fog. They also have a sponge that wipes away fog. All those things arent that expensive. I also plan to keep some rice in the car to prevent any moisture build up and causing more rust. Eventually ill have to get heat or something. Those shit box heater things from autozone arent that bad but will burn up the socket eventually.
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Manifold was welded up and intake pipes done. Wastegate flange had an unfortunate night, snapped two taps (harbor freight at that womp) and ended up cutting a corner off and welding in a stud. Dash still has to be installed, need to make a small plate to put the wide band gauge, boost and volts. Started working on my wiring harness and I wanted it by the stock ecu area but the wire was too much so found a better spot! I deleted the A/C, which I never used o had. I also deleted my heater core/ blower since it was blocked off previously. Only assumption is because it was leaking. Looking into getting an electric defogger and just use that. Im not worried about the heat or the cold.
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Tuesday taking the intake parts to get welded up. Then the motor is basically done. Needs little things like throttle cable, oils/ coolant, brake lines bleed and fitted. Been working on the speed hut gauges, pretty simple stuff. Attempted to fix my dash from the cracks it had. Used a combination of foam with bumper repair bondo. The bumper bondo is better than regular bondo, so we will see how long it lasts without cracking again. I have a dash mat so it may last longer.
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Small update: Small things have been slowing me down. Like 3in tbolt clamps I ordered didnt really fit over the couplers lol. Ordered a bunch of parts and impatiently waiting for them. While i was at it I figured the gte throttle body was too long. So I have to modify my intake manifold flange, so while I was at it I ordered a very clean Q45 throttle body and TPS and I will cut the current flange off and angle it down some to work. Still have lots to do.
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Using this oem modified short shifter. I forgot the site but it said reduces throw by 30% and its oem. I brought austin hoke's shifter relocator kit and then I just shortened the linkage.
